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Found 26 results

  1. So i go to leave one day and my 2008 Ford Edge wont crank it doesnt male any sounds just wont crank i noticed my battery is slowly going dead also noticed a flashing locked symbol going on and off eventually my battery is dead i get it charged enough that finally i get it to crank but when i turn the ignition off and take the keys out the engine is still running this giy wiggled a fuse to get it to cut off.. Now mind you the battery is brand new because i just replaced it along with the alternator about a month before.. Again whatever the problem is it keeps draining my battery and again the flashing locked symbol.. Can someone please please please help?? Ive been told its electrical that my system has locked down but how and why? Amd how much to fix it?? Anybody have any advice or suggestions?? Please im in desperate need!!
  2. Hi everyone, I'm new in this forum. I own a 2008 Ford Edge SEL. I'm having issues with a battery drain that occurs while the car is parked and the ignition is OFF. I charged the battery (slow charge of 3 amps) during the weekend and tested the alternator on Monday. Both battery and alternator are OK. Then, with a multimeter, I tested every fuse, under the hood and inside the driver's compartment. I'm having a reading of 0.7 amps (car parked, ignition OFF, every door closed, etc) with every fuse of the car connected, BUT it goes down to 0.01 amps when I disconnect fuses #5 and #26. Both of them have something to do with the instruments panel. So, does anyone knows if the instruments panel has a relay that I could take a look at and/or can point out what else can I do to solve this. Thanks in advance!
  3. Kenny Elliott

    Dual Batteries

    I'm thinking of installing a second battery in my 2013 Edge. Has anyone else attempted this? Any input or guidance you could provide would be great. Thanks, Kenny
  4. Its been 3 days since my sync3 has been completely blacked out. Initially there were issues with connecting phone via bluetooth. After rebooting my phone, it got reconnected to SYNC however SYNC blanked out in few minutes and then never turned on. Currently my radio, navigation, bluetooth everything is not working. I tried pressing the power and tune+ buttons at the same time for few minutes, but nothing happened. I also tried removing the fuse, turned the car on for few minutes, then turned it back off, put the fuse back in. However no help. Please suggest any alternative method to resolve this issue, or is my module dead? I am thinking of showing it to a dealer, however my car is past the warranty. Any idea how much would the dealer charge for consultation and repair work? I am currently driving a 2012 Ford Focus SEL.
  5. Krieger285

    Battery Issues

    Dead battery!! I have a feeling I'm singing an old tune based on all the comments that I'm finding on these forums. Ford has got some serious issues with their batteries dying on people for no reason. I've had to have my battery jumped probably 13 times in the last 6 months. absolutely ridiculous. and you only get the runaround from the dealership. And I've had it! Yes The battery has been checked over and over. No one can find anything wrong. Another issue that keeps coming up is the door sensor. Although the door is shut, the Sensor says it isn't. And even when the 'Door Open' warning is off and you think all is well...your battery dies just the same! Over and over again. Everything is unplugged, no warning lights on, I go out to start my car yesterday and BAM! Battery DEAD. Call roadside they come out and charge the battery, I let it run for over a half hour, shut it off. Wake up this morning, go out to start the car...you got it BATTERY DEAD!!!
  6. cloud0126

    Battery current draw issue?

    I have a 2014 Edge SEL with remote start. Does anyone know what the steady state current draw from the battery should be when the car is off and the systems have gone to “sleep”? I’m seeing 190mA and am wondering if it’s too high since we had an incident the other day where the car wouldn’t start after sitting for 3 days. I replaced the battery, but still notice the voltage dropping overnight. I pulled all the fuses in the engine compartment, but didn’t see a drop in draw when any of those were pulled. Wondering if I need to continue the investigation by pulling the fuses inside the car.
  7. Hi, in May I purchased and I installed the Blackvue DR750S 2ch. Soon after that I replaced my battery. I got Kirkland #6, recommended by Costco for Ford Edge. 1000 Cold Crancking Amps, way better than the original one. Installing the dashcam I used the recommended Power Magik Pro Kit and I set the shut off power to 12V, as they recommended. The new dashcam owner was very happy but this happiness lasted only only one month when the Ford Sync started shutting down as soon as I turning off my engine, to preserve battery power. I turned off the Power Magic Kit, disabling the Parking mode. After paying around $600CAD for this toy and not being able to use the Parking Mode ... very disappointing. I fully charged the battery and testing the voltage 12h later, the voltage dropped from 12.7V to 12.12V The average power consumption of the dual lens Blackvue DR750S 2ch is between 300 and 350 milliamps (3.6-4.2 watts @12V). Costco is going to replace the battery for free but I am asking your advise, what to do in order to have the dashcam working in Parking mode? I really don't want to spend another $400 for CelinkNeo battery pack https://www.blackboxmycar.ca/collections/dashcam-battery-pack/products/cellink-battery-neo?variant=5288207024161
  8. Hey there Ford Edge people, My car was having some battery issues just a few days before I was leaving to go overseas for a month. I figured I'd have to change the battery when I got back. Well, I'm back and I went to take a look and I noticed this blue and grey powder on the negative terminal. (See photos attached) I don't know if I need to replace the battery or if it's just corrosion on the terminal or if it's Ford Warranty stuff or just wear and tear. I have an extended Warranty and don't want to buy a battery and then it be something I can get fixed under the warranty. I can't start the car though to get it to Ford anyways. What do you suggest? Thanks! Mikey M EDIT: It's just corrosion on the terminals. I'm gonna clean it up and then get a jump start and take it from there. All good.
  9. I have a 2007 Ford Edge that has been acting up since I had the battery replaced in November 2016. When my car warms up, the battery light, check brake system, traction control, and ABS lights come on periodically. Then I lose my gauges, power windows, locks, sun roof, turn signals, satellite radio, blower fan, etc and then it the engine cuts out like it is going to die, but it hasn't yet. All of this goes on for a few minutes and then it will run fine again for a bit. It does not do this when it is really cold outside and has never overheated on me. I bought the vehicle in October and it did not start doing this until November when the battery was replaced by the dealer when they programmed another key for me. They say the the alternator, battery cables, etc need to be replaced, but the battery seems to be charging fine. The voltage is always WNL. Please help. Heather
  10. USautobailout

    Another battery/electrical issue!

    Hi, I've read through several battery/electrical discussions, but haven't been able to come up w/an answer so far. Figured I'd try here: 2011 Edge SEL, 60K, drive 2 hours daily, car runs great, but over past 2-3 months have developed issues w/battery dying repeatedly, usually after parking overnight. In addition, random interior lights, instrument panel, and Sync screen tend to light up at odd times when the car is off and should be asleep. Bosch battery is about 8 months old and has been tested a few times and comes back as fine. Took the car to the dealer and they could not find a definitive answer. Their best guess was a bad shifter and related module. I had them replace, but the battery has gone dead 3-4 times in the 2 weeks since. I also have the Door Ajar issue, but that has been there for 18 months or so and the battery issues are more recent. Finally, up until recently, this was happening primarily on Sat/Sun mornings. I doubt that has anything to do with it, but perhaps there is a software issue since the car has generally been running fine M-F (and again, I drive about 2 hours daily on the highway).
  11. I have a 2010 Edge Limited. The night before last I drove around with no issues, nor have I had any electrical issues in the past. Yesterday my wife and her friend go to the store, and my wife tells me it strained a little to start, like a low battery. Last night I tried to start, and it would not start at all, just clicks. I pushed it out of the garage and jumped it off, drove to the back yard to my shop and let it run for about 30 min. In this time I hooked up my little computer and it was showing no codes saying any problems. I then noticed that the drivers seat was not working and neither were the power mirrors. Everything else seams to be working normal. I backed it back into her garage and parked it overnight. This morning I started it up, drove to to the store and got a new battery. (testing showed it was bad). I swapped battery, left it unhooked fore about 5 min. Still same thing. So battery keeps draining (slowly), drivers power seat not working, as well as the memory controls, and power mirrors not working. I am going to look at it more this evening, but does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Phillip
  12. 2007 Ford Edge SE. Very first, very basic. But it works. Hopefully this will help somebody out there.. I know this has been a frustration of mine for quite some time now. Here's the abridged version. Never worked on cars before - fast learner and attention to detail. 1. Transmission seemed to start slipping; didn't do anything about it until seemed to be persistent/safety concern. 2. Drained Transmission oil (there's a simple drain plug on bottom of transaxle, sticks out) and refilled. Required 10 quarts, though about 1.5 quarts remained from the old fluid, so needed to drain some of the extra to level off correctly. Did NOT see metal flakes in the old (disgustingly black) transmission oil. Smelled burnt, definitely not a lifetime oil, and serious concern for transmission health. Transmission works fine, it just seems the car is getting old and worn and should be handled with more care than previously given (don't drive as a performance car if it ain't designed for it). 3. Week later, car slow to start. By third time starting it that day, won't start and need jump from running vehicle. Battery is only a year old, under warranty got it replaced. THEN, five days later, car SUDDENLY really slow to start.. obvious problem. Don't want to bother auto store with more battery tests, talk to mechanics at Jiffy lube and listen to car.. Diagnosis: - No normal signs of Alternator issues - Starter is turning, probably not the issue, could be though since alternator seems not to be source - Fuel pump likely culprit (but ford put them inside the gas tank, so that's a pain in the ass and unrealistic to fix) Go back to get battery tested, it's completely dead. Considering new option.. 4. Replaced starter. When starting first time, it sounds like the engine has a better grasp and run on itself, though it's still slow to start. Take it back to Auto store, run test, battery dead. That's only 6 days with the new battery. It's now believed that there's likely an electrical issue that's causing the battery to drain. CURRENT DAY.. Through a post on this thread I've determined it's possible to service your own fuel pump, but that the electrical issue may just be the wires feeding into the fuel pump, causing it to slow possibly from corrosion or a blockage of some sort. Learned that you can take out the seats, but it's a sweaty job in TX. 5. Fuel Pump inspection.. HOW TO GET THERE.. a. take out floor in back b. take out smaller rear passenger-side seat first (will need deep socket wrenches and some legit strength, some of those nuts are tight), THEN driver-side rear seat. c. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO SEATS. d. lift carpet and use regular phillips screw head to open floor to access fuel pump electrical connections.. .. Resuming in the afternoon. I seriously lack in electrical knowledge, but I grew up around people who understood it so I feel confident I can atleast recognize if there's a legit burn or corrosion.
  13. beemerpepper

    Dead Battery

    When I parked and turned my Edge off I could not open door locks. The battery was dead and there was no way to open the doors from the inside. Myself and a 13 year old were locked in and it was 100 degrees. The fire department and sheriff were called by my roadside assistance. The deputy taped everything and could not believe it either that there was no way to open the doors manually. We were able to pass the key to the outside after the door was pulled open an inch and they could not open either front door with the key. When Ford was called they said it was impossible! The deputy said they can view his tape because he filmed the entire incident and was ready to break my window since we had been locked in almost an hour. Luckily jumper cables were attached and enough power was supplied to unlock the driver's door. The Edge was towed to Ford and the battery needs to be replaced and they have told me that this occurred because the gear shift is causing the battery to drain and i need to spend over $600 to have a new shift put in. I need to know if anyone has ever heard of this situation. I feel like I had a "near death" experience...had I not had a phone.....
  14. beemerpepper

    Locked in Car

    I parked my 2011 Edge, turned the car off and to my surprise was unable to open the door. I had a 13 year old with me and the temperature was over 100 degrees. I tried to turn the car on again to unlock or open a window and there wasn't any power at all. Luckily I had my phone and called roadside assistance, due to the high temperature and nature of the problem, they called 911. The fire department and deputy arrived at the scene and tried everything to get the doors open. We could not open by using the door handles inside, we even tried pulling the back door locks up by hand but they wouldn't budge. I looked through the manual while Ford service was being called to see if there was an emergency handle or lever, I couldn't find any info on that in the manual and Ford Service said it was impossible and couldn't help us further because they didn't believe the door wouldn't open. The deputy had a camera on his chest and filmed the entire event and told me Ford could watch it since they said this situation wasn't a real event. Just before they were going to break the window, they pryed the door open an inch so I could pass them the key, they tried to open the door manually with the key and were unable to. Jumper cables were attached to the battery giving enough power for the key to work from the outside. It was a "near death" experience considering the hot temperature, a teenage who I had just picked up from soccer and the fact that the doors could not be opened, what if I had not had a phone with me........... Now Ford is telling me it is going to cost over $700 because the gear shift need to be replaced!
  15. I replaced the motorcraft 540 cca battery that was about 19 months old and dead or dying with an Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750 AGM deep cycle 950 CCA battery. My Edge has never started so fast!!! Great battery and you can say good bye to lazy cold winter starts.
  16. Ok I have tested both of my Ford Edge's and one has some issues with the battery and maybe more, but I will replace the battery and retest to see if the charging system still shows signs like it did during the testing. It may be the battery was toast and is causing the erratic behaviot
  17. doug3940

    2012 SEL - Dead Battery!

    I've got a fully loaded 2012 SEL that's about 5 weeks old and I woke up to a dead battery this morning. I've noticed a few quirky things with the car, like you get in and start it and the radio is on FM, not on Sirius where you left it, or that the right side of the dashboard screen won't update anymore, it just stays locked on a particular radio channel. But I have to say that these problems have always cleared up the next time I start the car. But this morning takes the cake, the car was completely dead. Being slightly technical, I checked the battery voltage and saw it was at an amazing 4.8 volts - which I didn't think was possible, figuring most systems in the car shut off at a higher voltage, say 10 volts or so. So, I put the battery charger on the car for four hours and the car did start on the first turn of the key. I haven't driven it anywhere yet, but I did let it run for awhile and did successfully stop and start it several times. So, here is the kicker. Satisfied that the car is now fine, I shut it off, get out and lock/arm the vehicle. As I am walking away from the car, I hear the FM radio come on! The screen of the car has the white background and the dashboard screens are lit up white, and the FM stereo is on! So, I get back in and press the radio on/off button with no result. I put the key back in the ignition, turn it to 'on' and press the power button and it goes off. I get out of the car, lock the doors and it does it a second time! This time I wait about 20 seconds and the radio shuts itself off - with no intervention from me. So, this has me wondering, what's the car doing when I'm not around? And is this why the car killed the battery? I realize that there is no way to get help from the forum for this, but does anyone else have a similar story? If so, please share it here! PS I know I have the latest flash because the stereo buttons on the screen have the little yellow led-like indicators next to AM, FM, Sirius, etc., and this is the way I got if from the dealer. PPS coming from a 2009 Edge Limited where everything just worked fine, have they really improved Sync in 2012??
  18. Hello, FE Forum! Wish my first post was under different circumstances. My wife's 2012 SEL Eco has been having off and on battery issues. Sometimes not driving for 8-12 hrs results in dead battery. She was getting fed up with how unreliable the car was becoming, so I changed the first thing I know to - the battery. Before this I attempted to jump it with my jumper pack. The jumper pack didn't have enough juice, so after I attempted to start it, there was this very fast clicking noise coming from driver side engine compartment. I went and got new battery, mega tron 2 65, installed it, go to start it and it starts but I smell burnt fuses. Immediately notice that the sync was completely black, and inop, as were the flashers and a few others. I replaced the fuses that tested popped under the driver area. Looked at the high side and the fuses all tested good. Hooked it back up to battery and started it and it turned over but with in a few minutes went to a low power limp mode. It eventually died. Brand new battery was reading 9.4volts! Alternator was putting out 14, so it was good. Check wiring harness and the 200amp circuit breaker on the battery terminal popped. Replaced that circuit breaker and charging system is up and good, car drives, AC, sync, everything is running good, except for the flashers, turn signals, and HIDS. The passenger right Amber light (where it has "edge" engraved) is on non stop, unless I pull its fuse. The back driver side Amber light is also on non stop unless I pull its fuse. The blinkers won't work at all, even though the instrument cluster shows them on and blinking. While driving the passenger side HID is significantly brighter than the drivers side. I've tested all the fuses and they all check out, pulled relays in the high distro box and they had no significant effect. The CES light was on and threw a code for pcm write failure - too early. Cleared it but it's still showing as a "permenent code". Do these edges have a seperate bcm? Or does the pcm control everything? Thanks in advance, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  19. I have a 6 month old Ford Edge with only 7500 miles on it that suddenly wont start. I bought it from inside the showroom with less than 2 miles on it & It has always cranked fine until tonight. I went outside to get something out of the car and my key fob would not unlock the car so I used the key lock on the door to get in and notice I had no interior lights on at all & no radio screen and only backlit lights on the dash came on. I put the key into the ignition and it made some horrible noises from the rear speakers that sounded like feedback and then I noticed a clicking noise in the back also. I tried to crank it again and only got clicking from the hood. I did some research and saw many people have had these issues and also mentioned the "battery save mode off" message was appearing on the screen and I realized my car has also been having that message for a few months but I thought it was due to the cold weather since it had started around the same time. We live in SC so its not like it gets or stays very cold and even with 30 degree temps its worked fine but today we hit 72 degrees and the car wont start! I have an extended warranty also but I use my car for work and I am trying to figure out how to get it to the dealer also....any trick to cranking it so I can get it to the dealer?? I have attached a video as an example. Thanks in advance! K IMG_3761.MOV
  20. Edbatizu@yahoo.com

    Battery leak...$1000??

    Went to start, out of the blue battery dead. Upon inspection blue gunk (acid) all round positive terminal. Took to dealer, says I not only need battery but new harness as acid corroded some wires. (Car ran fine after jump....no apparent issues). Here's the catch...$1000.00 to replace. Am I getting ripped off?? 2012 SEL - Loaded 42000 miles....love the car till now...?
  21. abnjim6

    Dead Battery

    Hi All, I purchased a 2013 Ford Edge and the battery keeps going dead. This dead battery matter is probably the result of this fine car not being started regularly, and would be considered to be in storage, but its a pain to charge this battery all the time. Just three days pass and this battery is dead! What to do? James
  22. Hi Guys, first post here.. So I purchased a 2011 Ford Edge roughly 2 years ago. It was great until about 2 or 3 months ago. One day I came out to the car and the battery was dead. I jumped it and it was fine for a while. Then about 2 months later, it started saying "Low Battery" on the clock/radio and was starting a little rougher. Within 2 days, it was saying "Battery Saver" and then eventually just didn't start. I got out of the car, walked to the front and heard a LOUD rattling, like a rattlesnake inside the car. All the "HI PWR" black fuses were rattling so hard that they were vibrating everything. I quickly disconnected the fuse box because I was worried that an airbag was going to deploy or something. I had a brand new battery in the garage that I had purchased 2 weeks prior (by mistake for my boat - needed a deep cycle). COOL, what are the odds!?! So I put the new battery in, everything's perfect. Within 3-4 weeks it starts saying "LOW BATTERY" again on the clock. Within 1 day it was dead and refused to start again (This time it was saying "Check charging system"). *** By the way, I've also been having the stupid DOOR AJAR problem for about 6 months now *** So I called FORD service and explain the situation and give them my info. She tells me that my vehicle is still under warranty and even if it wasn't, that I had purchased the "best extended warranty that they offer". I bring the car in, explain everything, have to sign to agree that I will pay the $110 diagnosing fee, regardless of what they find. I get a call back within a few hours saying that my battery is bad (no $*, why do you think I brought it in?). It is a 1 month old battery that was brand new when put in the vehicle. Then he proceeds to tell me that the only way to properly diagnose it is to purchase the $180 Motorcraft battery, have them put it in, and then re-diagnose it. He tells me "This battery from Wal-Mart is a low quality battery and we can only properly diagnose it with a brand new high quality battery from Motorcraft". (I'm not sure why they'd assume that there's something wrong with a brand new battery and a prior 3 year old battery just dying instantly and not something electrical). He also informed me that I am completely out of warranty and the only thing the extended warranty covers is lubricated parts in the powertrain. (awesome). So it's going to be: $109.95 for diagnosis $180 for battery $479 for door latch replacement for Door Ajar (haha, F you buddy). This is a safety hazard to begin with. The doors won't lock when driving. Sounds like something a recall should take care of. I'm not really sure what my avenue should be. it's obvious that it's either something electrical or the alternator. A healthy battery shouldn't die in a month in a 3-4 year old vehicle. I'm not sure why they can't test my car with a battery that they have in the shop. I wonder if I bring my dead Motorcraft battery and drop it on his desk if he can test that "high quality battery" and see why it failed... I feel like my only avenue at this point is to either pay a bunch of money for them to do exactly what I just did (replace the battery), or to take it to a shop that will actually try to figure out what's wrong instead of blame it on a new battery. Thoughts?
  23. Hello All, I have owned a 2011 Ford Edge Limited for 2 years. Love it! Almost 40000 miles and almost without a problem. Recently, my OEM battery went on my Edge. Not a big deal, I got my full usage out of it. I went to Walmart and had the battery replaced (reason being price differential between FORD and Walmart was astronomical). However, immediately on getting the battery installed my ((SERVICE ADVANCETRAC LIGHT)), ((TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT)) and ((COLLISION WARNING LIGHTS)) are all illuminated at a constant. This was never a problem before and even when the battery was jumped from a dead stop they all functioned fine. Here is my question before I waste the time going down to Ford (which is probably what I should of done prior) could it be the battery itself is the wrong type for the vehicle? Car runs smooth. No other electrical problems whatsover. Could it be that? Or any recommendations other than that, that it could be?. Thanks.
  24. navaidstech

    Dead battery

    Hey guys... I'm going to be troubleshooting this problem this weekend but I'm wondering if anyone can provide some heads up to save me time. Basically what happens is that the car won't start due to a dead battery. I was just about to run out and buy a replacement (expensive suckers!) but decided to see if the alternator was fine. In the end I discovered that the car draws about 2 A of current when off (keys out of the ignition, etc...). I'm sure this is not normal. Has anyone come across this? If so, what did you find? thanks!
  25. I've been having trouble starting the new Edge. Not just in the morning mind you but at all different times. I checked the battery just now with my Fluke and it reads 10v. I just started it to move it a few feet in my garage and it did fine but I'm wondering about the batt voltage. I'll check again in the morning before I try to start then. I checked all connections visible and everything seemed tight so anyone know? Going back to dealer Thursday, I mean after all it is two weeks old, time for repair, right?
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