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Electronic rear tail gate will not stay open. I picked it up from a repair shop where they replaced a rear wheel bearing, when I opens the rear door it came back down and hit the guy on the head. It is still doing this, it had never happened befor yesterday?

Hi, I (of course) was lucky enough to have the DOOR AJAR issue in my 2013 Ford Edge SE V6 AWD with Convenience Package. My question is ... can anyone out there tell me what wires in the door go to the open and close on the sensor so I can hook up another method (magnetic switch) that will work? OR if you know where to get a Wiring Diagram? Thanks In Advance!

2016 Edge SEL: I'm curious if anyone has had issues with grease "dripping" out of their hatch door from the vent/drain holes at the bottom of the door. I noticed an odd colored spot on my rear bumper cover this morning and when I touched it, realized it was grease. It is amber colored and I noticed some droplets or drips of the same substance on the drain hole at the bottom of the hatch. This was only on the passenger side of the door strangely.

Rear Doors Freezing – 2016-2017 Lincoln MKX TSB 17-0030 REAR DOOR(S) FREEZING Publication Date: March 16, 2017 LINCOLN: 2016-2017 MKX ISSUE: Some 2016-2017 MKX vehicles may exhibit one or both rear doors that are hard to open in freezing temperatures. This may be due to water entering and freezing the rear door exterior latch cable. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Remove both rear door latches and replace both rear door exterior latch cables. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-14. * It is not necessary to remove the interior door latch cable from the door latch assembly. * It is not necessary to remove the latch from the handle reinforcement assembly. To install, reverse the removal procedure. PART NUMBER PART NAME FA1Z-58266A46-B Exterior Door Latch Cable OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 170030A 2016-2017 MKX Without One Touch Up/Down Rear Door Windows: Replace The Exterior Latch Cables Both (2) Rear Doors (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.4 Hrs. 170030B 2016-2017 MKX With One Touch Up/Down Rear Door Windows: Replace The Exterior Latch Cables Both (2) Rear Doors Includes Time To Perform Power Door Window Initialization (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.7 Hrs. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 58266A46 01 TSB 17-0030 Rear Doors Freezing – 2016-2017 Lincoln MKX.pdf

I've noticed this both on our new 2016 and a 2015 that we had as a rental. The rear doors collect a lot of dirt and salt on the inside of the jambs. Long term, I'm concerned about rust there. Does anyone have a solution for this? Thanks for any suggestions or ideas!

In my 2012 Sport I have interior door handle trim (?) if that's what you call it. Need to replace one on rear passenger side to match the factory color because the current one is scratched up pretty bad. The only pic I found online is for a front door (below), but just to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. Where do I get one of these in the silver color I need and what are they called? Has anyone replaced this themselves and how do you do it?

I have a 2012 Ford Edge that seems to be plagued with problems. The latest is that I can't get the rear passenger door to open from the inside or outside. When the power locks are switched, it doesn't appear that the manual button comes up all the way. I'm thinking there may be a problem there. The button is moving, but not all the way up and down. Can anyone tell me the best way to get inside the door and what to check for?

Looking for some guidance to see if I can fix the issue with my Edge personally or should I have a shop take care of it. Bottom line...my exterior door handle will not work while the interior door handle will open the door without an issue. When I shake the door I hear a metal pinging noise coming from the exterior door handle area. The door handle has been disconnected. Can anyone please instruct me on fixing this issue? Or should I take it to a shop? I appreciate all your responses and guidance in advance!

I am currently a college student and for our Machine Elements class, we have a finite element analysis project. Essentially, we are supposed to create, or find, a 3D model of a door handle on our current car (we will be providing a picture of our door handle to prove it is our car) and determine the material and run a computer analysis determining the stressed incurred when somebody tries to open the door. I have a 2007 Ford Edge, but I believe that many, if not all, of the Ford Edge model years so far have the same handle. So now comes to my real questions, does anybody have anything I could use? Any information regarding 3D model files you may have (preferably Solidworks files), what the interior mechanisms used to connect the door handle are, the material the handle is made out of, or dimensions of the handle (so that if I must model the handle myself, I can do something more accurate than guesstimating, since the rounded parts of the door handle are very difficult to measure and model accurately, especially without taking the door apart)? Literally any information you can provide about the door handle will help. Thanks!

Has anyone had any issues with door panels and dents? We have noticed an indention in the center of the drivers door (with no dirt or paint disturbance) where basically the entire drivers door has dented in a shape of an X in 4 spots and cracked the paint under the door entry code panel. Unfortunately, because Ford doesn't offer just the panels, we have to replace the entire door. Oddly, when I took it to the paint shop, he pointed out the same spot on the passenger door but doesn't see the X pattern. He thought it was too coincidental...

Hey all, I have a 2007 SEL Plus, and when I hit the unlock key on the remote, the door mirror shifts positions. It doesn't do this any other time, just when I unlock my vehicle. Any idea what would cause this? A loose ground wire? Bad motor? I don't have a clue on this one, thanks for any help you can give in advance! Gary W.

I am currently a college student and for our Machine Elements class, we have a finite element analysis project. Essentially, we are supposed to create, or find, a 3D model of a door handle on our current car (we will be providing a picture of our door handle to prove it is our car) and determine the material and run a computer analysis determining the stressed incurred when somebody tries to open the door. I have a 2007 Ford Edge, but I believe that many, if not all, of the Ford Edge model years so far have the same handle. So now comes to my real questions, does anybody have anything I could use? Any information regarding 3D model files you may have (preferably Solidworks files), what the interior mechanisms used to connect the door handle are, the material the handle is made out of, or dimensions of the handle (so that if I must model the handle myself, I can do something more accurate than guesstimating, since the rounded parts of the door handle are very difficult to measure and model accurately, especially without taking the door apart)? Literally any information you can provide about the door handle will help. Thanks!

The video pretty much tells the story. $3,300.00 in damage. The insurance company will fix it!! I was surprised since it has 271,000 miles on it. The body shop stated that the damages according to their records only amounted to 30 percent of the value of the vehicle. These guys must run on a different set of papers than the car dealer as they say my car is only worth 2k for trade. LOL

has anyone bought this part from amazon? it is the Ford part number but way cheaper? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HB9K4JA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I just ordered one will be here on Thursday. anyone have any tips for installing this illuminated door sill kit? hopefully it is the actual ford part. Ron

Hey all, Here are some photos from the Polk Audio dxi6501 component speakers I installed in the front doors of my '07 Edge. The tweeters are installed in the A pillars about an inch or so above the dash. I don't have pics of them, yet. Enjoy!! Gary W.

Hi Guys, first post here.. So I purchased a 2011 Ford Edge roughly 2 years ago. It was great until about 2 or 3 months ago. One day I came out to the car and the battery was dead. I jumped it and it was fine for a while. Then about 2 months later, it started saying "Low Battery" on the clock/radio and was starting a little rougher. Within 2 days, it was saying "Battery Saver" and then eventually just didn't start. I got out of the car, walked to the front and heard a LOUD rattling, like a rattlesnake inside the car. All the "HI PWR" black fuses were rattling so hard that they were vibrating everything. I quickly disconnected the fuse box because I was worried that an airbag was going to deploy or something. I had a brand new battery in the garage that I had purchased 2 weeks prior (by mistake for my boat - needed a deep cycle). COOL, what are the odds!?! So I put the new battery in, everything's perfect. Within 3-4 weeks it starts saying "LOW BATTERY" again on the clock. Within 1 day it was dead and refused to start again (This time it was saying "Check charging system"). *** By the way, I've also been having the stupid DOOR AJAR problem for about 6 months now *** So I called FORD service and explain the situation and give them my info. She tells me that my vehicle is still under warranty and even if it wasn't, that I had purchased the "best extended warranty that they offer". I bring the car in, explain everything, have to sign to agree that I will pay the $110 diagnosing fee, regardless of what they find. I get a call back within a few hours saying that my battery is bad (no $*, why do you think I brought it in?). It is a 1 month old battery that was brand new when put in the vehicle. Then he proceeds to tell me that the only way to properly diagnose it is to purchase the $180 Motorcraft battery, have them put it in, and then re-diagnose it. He tells me "This battery from Wal-Mart is a low quality battery and we can only properly diagnose it with a brand new high quality battery from Motorcraft". (I'm not sure why they'd assume that there's something wrong with a brand new battery and a prior 3 year old battery just dying instantly and not something electrical). He also informed me that I am completely out of warranty and the only thing the extended warranty covers is lubricated parts in the powertrain. (awesome). So it's going to be: $109.95 for diagnosis $180 for battery $479 for door latch replacement for Door Ajar (haha, F you buddy). This is a safety hazard to begin with. The doors won't lock when driving. Sounds like something a recall should take care of. I'm not really sure what my avenue should be. it's obvious that it's either something electrical or the alternator. A healthy battery shouldn't die in a month in a 3-4 year old vehicle. I'm not sure why they can't test my car with a battery that they have in the shop. I wonder if I bring my dead Motorcraft battery and drop it on his desk if he can test that "high quality battery" and see why it failed... I feel like my only avenue at this point is to either pay a bunch of money for them to do exactly what I just did (replace the battery), or to take it to a shop that will actually try to figure out what's wrong instead of blame it on a new battery. Thoughts?

I just ordered a set of Chrome Door Handles (9T4Z-7822404-AA) for my 2010 Ford Edge SEL. Installation was a breeze, however, the front and rear door on the passenger side did not have the T20 Torx handle re-inforcement screw. Instead the front passenger door had a crosstip screw, and the rear passenger door had a 1/4" hex head screw. Well needless to say, neither one would tighten down enough to fully secure the bezel. So both bezels on the right side can be pulled out if you were to pull on them. I am curious if anybody knows what the factory re-enforcement screw size/pitch/length is? I'm hoping I can just run to the hardware store to pick up a couple SS screwes to use and not have to order two from Ford (not terribly expensive, but something like 1.25 a screw). I'm just hoping whoever the knucklehead was that put those in didn't strip the threads in the door, which in that case I guess I could probably drill and tap for a larger screw. Thanks in advance!