Search the Community

Hi everyone, I'm new in this forum. I own a 2008 Ford Edge SEL. I'm having issues with a battery drain that occurs while the car is parked and the ignition is OFF. I charged the battery (slow charge of 3 amps) during the weekend and tested the alternator on Monday. Both battery and alternator are OK. Then, with a multimeter, I tested every fuse, under the hood and inside the driver's compartment. I'm having a reading of 0.7 amps (car parked, ignition OFF, every door closed, etc) with every fuse of the car connected, BUT it goes down to 0.01 amps when I disconnect fuses #5 and #26. Both of them have something to do with the instruments panel. So, does anyone knows if the instruments panel has a relay that I could take a look at and/or can point out what else can I do to solve this. Thanks in advance!

Sorry if this has been posted, but all I could find in this section was PTU threads, lots of them. Where's the Trans oil dip stick and top-up cap on the 2017 Sport ? My handbook shows to move the air filter intake to the side to access it, but I don't see it on mine. I'm looking at taking advantage of a good deal running on a pack of 12 quarts Motocraft Mercon LV, and will exchange the trans oil with this when I reach 50 or 60K miles. Edit: I found it, tucked away under the coolant hose. It would be best to remove the complete air filter box to access it.

Hi Guys, first post here.. So I purchased a 2011 Ford Edge roughly 2 years ago. It was great until about 2 or 3 months ago. One day I came out to the car and the battery was dead. I jumped it and it was fine for a while. Then about 2 months later, it started saying "Low Battery" on the clock/radio and was starting a little rougher. Within 2 days, it was saying "Battery Saver" and then eventually just didn't start. I got out of the car, walked to the front and heard a LOUD rattling, like a rattlesnake inside the car. All the "HI PWR" black fuses were rattling so hard that they were vibrating everything. I quickly disconnected the fuse box because I was worried that an airbag was going to deploy or something. I had a brand new battery in the garage that I had purchased 2 weeks prior (by mistake for my boat - needed a deep cycle). COOL, what are the odds!?! So I put the new battery in, everything's perfect. Within 3-4 weeks it starts saying "LOW BATTERY" again on the clock. Within 1 day it was dead and refused to start again (This time it was saying "Check charging system"). *** By the way, I've also been having the stupid DOOR AJAR problem for about 6 months now *** So I called FORD service and explain the situation and give them my info. She tells me that my vehicle is still under warranty and even if it wasn't, that I had purchased the "best extended warranty that they offer". I bring the car in, explain everything, have to sign to agree that I will pay the $110 diagnosing fee, regardless of what they find. I get a call back within a few hours saying that my battery is bad (no $*, why do you think I brought it in?). It is a 1 month old battery that was brand new when put in the vehicle. Then he proceeds to tell me that the only way to properly diagnose it is to purchase the $180 Motorcraft battery, have them put it in, and then re-diagnose it. He tells me "This battery from Wal-Mart is a low quality battery and we can only properly diagnose it with a brand new high quality battery from Motorcraft". (I'm not sure why they'd assume that there's something wrong with a brand new battery and a prior 3 year old battery just dying instantly and not something electrical). He also informed me that I am completely out of warranty and the only thing the extended warranty covers is lubricated parts in the powertrain. (awesome). So it's going to be: $109.95 for diagnosis $180 for battery $479 for door latch replacement for Door Ajar (haha, F you buddy). This is a safety hazard to begin with. The doors won't lock when driving. Sounds like something a recall should take care of. I'm not really sure what my avenue should be. it's obvious that it's either something electrical or the alternator. A healthy battery shouldn't die in a month in a 3-4 year old vehicle. I'm not sure why they can't test my car with a battery that they have in the shop. I wonder if I bring my dead Motorcraft battery and drop it on his desk if he can test that "high quality battery" and see why it failed... I feel like my only avenue at this point is to either pay a bunch of money for them to do exactly what I just did (replace the battery), or to take it to a shop that will actually try to figure out what's wrong instead of blame it on a new battery. Thoughts?