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I have a 2008 which I swapped the headlights out for LEDs bulbs. Both low and high beams have been working for over a year now. Over the last few months the passenger low beam started to become sporatic in operation. I used to be able to get it to turn back on by turning the headlights off and then back on. It is now at a point where the headlight does not turn on at all. Driver side and both high beams work fine. I pulled out the DMM and checked the voltage going to the headlight and I am reading about 8.9V; far below the allowed 12V. The driver side is reading 13.5V - nicely charged battery. The low voltage was measured without the headlight in place. Driver side and both high beams have proper voltages. I found that there is a left and right 10A fuse for the low beams. I swapped these and the problem still persists on the passenger side - thus eliminating any corrosion and fuse issue. Any other suggestions? I have a CD for the electrical schematic but, it is from 2011, I cannot seem to get it loaded and all the other references I find on the internet are just money suckers in some form. My next step is to go through the wiring diagram and check where I am loosing voltage and need a decent diagram for tracing.

the seat warmer on the drivers side of my car does not work, the two lights turn on for a second then turn off and it doesn’t work after until you turn the car off, and then start it again. Im planning on fixing the seat warmer myself (if possible), but i need help with removing the center panel to get to the connectors. im worried about damaging it as I’ve seen others who attempt so have damaged the panel easily. i have a 2009 Ford Edge as well

So I have seen a lot of post but no one can confirm what works or not. My edge will randomly not start. In the very start if you jumped it I got a million dash lights and the car would shut off after hitting about forty. i took it to the Ford dealer and they said it was a faulty throttle body I replaced that. Car ran fine for two weeks then problem showed back up. brought it back to the dealer said they couldn’t see any issues. Did a electrical scan battery showed fine but did show a intermittent charging issue. Dealer said couldn’t pinpoint what it was but could be alternator or dead battery or pcm or starter or fuel pump. I took the car back and it has ran fine for almost a month. Now again will randomly not start after various trips both short and long day or night. Now though when I jump the car it just starts but I no longer get any of the previous error lights which I was told they need to better diagnose the issue. when I do jump the car I do notice small sparks coming off the back battery post…if I do jump the car it will need to be jump 4 times after stopping and starting then problem goes away for on average 2 weeks then resets. Does anyone know what this could be? Has anyone got this fixed? I have seen so many posts but no one ever replies with what worked. I am asking because I don’t really want to just let the dealer bill the living Christ out of me for various parts.

Hello all, I’ve been lurking in the forum for a few weeks now and finally made an account. Hoping to get some help from some forum experts here. We have a 2011 Ford Edge with 180000 miles. About to take it on our move to Italy and want all the kinks worked out before we go to a place with no ford support. Now, I’m a pilot by trade, some what mechanically inclined. I do spark plugs and oil regularly , understand the concepts of multimeters (never used one though) and have the Haynes manual for my car. symptoms: -cruise control works intermittently (20%) of the Time.. sometimes the cruise control turns on other times it does not. The other day it worked fine then I got gas and it didn’t work, I’ve also seen functionality on all the buttons during one ride. So one particular button doesn’t appear bad. -the ok button on left side of steering wheel control works maybe 1 out of 10 pushes -horn seems like it’s missing one one of the horns when I press it on the wheel -right side steering wheel control buttons totally operational a -left side steering wheel left/ right and up down seem functional. solutions: - replaces the left Side control button panels completely option 2 - based power wiring sounds like this could be a left clock spring failure. Maybe replace the clock spring . Could I confirm this with a multi meter ? questions: -I’m nervous about doing work with the airbag, I’ve read several iterations of precautions. Disconnect battery and negative as well, wait up to 30 minutes then you can start working on the wheel with no airbag issues. Also read to pull the fuse for the airbag, any other suggestions or things I’m missing. - if I go to replace the clock spring do I need to do a steering wheel alignment? Or if it aligns with the arrows it will automatically align? -based on the symptoms what do you suspect is wrong? How would I figure out if it’s the buttons or the clock spring ? - any other guides you’d recommend before doing this mx? Which tools do I need for the clock spring release and steering wheel bolts ? Thanks all! - Capcadet

Hello from a new user to the forum. I read through 26 of the 51 topic pages and figured this is probably way off a normal topic for this forum, so I decided to just post. I picked up, what I think is an awesome 2013 Edge Limited, from an insurance salvage auction, as a side project. Everything has progressed well and I am really looking forward to finishing this build, except for the headlamp operation. When I got the vehicle, it came to me without a bumper cover or any lights. The vehicle took a hit in the driver side front corner. The issue I am experiencing is when I connect the battery, the headlamps come on, stay on, and won't go off. What I found is they were being powered from F57 & F78 (Battery Junction Box). I pulled Fuses F57 & F78 and the headlamps fail to light by cycling the headlamp switch. I confirmed battery voltage on Pin 2, which I thought would light the headlamp, however the headlamp failed to light. I replaced the Front Lighting Control Module to ensure I was , and found all other lights worked as expected. I would like to understand the operation of the HID Headlamp diagram. If there is battery voltage through F57 & F78 at all times, what causes the headlamps to go out and back on? Since I had to purchase HID Headlamp Assemblies (used), Ballasts (new-OSRAM 10R-034663), and Bulbs (new), I do not have any previous experience with this vehicle and not sure if my problem is within the headlamp assembly and maybe ballast wiring? Any help would be much appreciated. If additional information is needed, please let me know. Thank you, Rich

I am working on my 2012 Ford Edge Limited and ran the powered passenger side set all the way forward and tilted the back all the way forward. Now when I go to move it back, the seat will not move at all. I have been thorough the manual looking for a passenger side seat or passenger side "anything" and cannot find a fuse listed for it. Drivers side seat is listed, still works and the fuse is fine. In trouble shooting I studied the drivers side and then made sure all the wiring harness is connected, and listened to the clicks and relays turning on and off when you press a button. No sound from the passenger side. I did hook 12 volts up directly to the front back motor so at least I could move the seat back, but the back rest is still tilted forward. No way to get to the back rest connector unless you take the seat all the way out. Any thoughts on what fuse the passenger seat motors are on?

Have a couple issues, i Recently bought i 2007 ford edge ans i noticed that the volume button on steering wheel doesnt work, nor does the mirror adjust control on door and last the gas gauge is not right..off by half a tank. Could it just be a fuse problem or do i have bigger issuses?

I have a 2014 Edge SEL with remote start. Does anyone know what the steady state current draw from the battery should be when the car is off and the systems have gone to “sleep”? I’m seeing 190mA and am wondering if it’s too high since we had an incident the other day where the car wouldn’t start after sitting for 3 days. I replaced the battery, but still notice the voltage dropping overnight. I pulled all the fuses in the engine compartment, but didn’t see a drop in draw when any of those were pulled. Wondering if I need to continue the investigation by pulling the fuses inside the car.

Hi all, I've had several gremlins in my 2015 Ford Edge Titanium 2.0 EcoBoost. I've had the car for 18 months, and 28k. about 6 months ago was my first major issue... the car electrically recycled while driving on the highway... it came back on and I was able to drive, but it was a VERY scary full second with my child in the car. Fast forward 2 days at the dealer... they can't find why it did that. Next issue... Stupid gps map card went bad... this happens so it's fine. 3rd issue... the support arm/hydraulic for the tailgate breaks and the darn thing falls on me and hits me in the head. Fast forward to this past weekend... 4th issue... My cameras start to act up and my MyTouch. I put the car in reverse, the camera doesn't turn on. I try to change from Sirius to Bluetooth, it won't work. 30 min later I try to use my forward camera to park, nope that doesn't work either. I turn the car off and chop it up to gremlins... again Now to today's issue... 5th issue... which involves yet again my 3 yr old (which makes for Mama bear to not be happy). I get out of the car to prep the car for fuel... I leave the engine on... and before anyone yells at me... it's COLD where I live and my 3 yr old was in the car, frankly I'm GLAD I left it on too because of what happened. I close my driver door and go to the pump to swipe my credit card... I hear the DOORS LOCK... I think okay not a problem, the Keys are in my pocket (and no, nothing hit the keys). I go to open the door... no go. I unlock the car with the fob... NO GO. I punch in the CODE to get in... NO GO. I walk around the car to the back to open the tailgate.. NO GO. I kick under the car (key in my pocket)... NO GO. I walk over to my daughters carseat and notice her DVD is on the opening screen, it was in the middle of the movie when I got out.... This tells me the car recycled electrically again like what happened on the highway 6 months ago. So here I am, my child is locked in the car, I'm locked outside the car... cell phone is in the car. Waiting for my husband to come with the spare key to use a physical key to get in the car. About 45 min into waiting, the car automatically unlocks. I didn't touch the key or the door, it just unlocked again. I open the car door, and the car was as if I did a remote start. All the screens were off. And note, the car engine was running the entire 45 minutes, and it's programmed to shut off after 30 mins of idle. As of this moment, I've had 2 serious issues with my 3 year old in the car. I'm not comfortable keeping this car with a kid. Thankfully my local dealer is taking the car to try to look at it tonight, but I'm very concerned. The first time a gremlin appeared my daughter and I were almost hit by a tractor trailer as the car lost power while driving on the highway, this time it locked her in the car. Has anyone else had issues like these with the Edge's? I'm considering writing a letter to Ford. I'm also hoping that the dealership can find something this time, but I'm fearful I will get the same "it's a gremlin that can't be replicated, let us know when it happens again". Because I'm sick of that response.

Hi, I've read through several battery/electrical discussions, but haven't been able to come up w/an answer so far. Figured I'd try here: 2011 Edge SEL, 60K, drive 2 hours daily, car runs great, but over past 2-3 months have developed issues w/battery dying repeatedly, usually after parking overnight. In addition, random interior lights, instrument panel, and Sync screen tend to light up at odd times when the car is off and should be asleep. Bosch battery is about 8 months old and has been tested a few times and comes back as fine. Took the car to the dealer and they could not find a definitive answer. Their best guess was a bad shifter and related module. I had them replace, but the battery has gone dead 3-4 times in the 2 weeks since. I also have the Door Ajar issue, but that has been there for 18 months or so and the battery issues are more recent. Finally, up until recently, this was happening primarily on Sat/Sun mornings. I doubt that has anything to do with it, but perhaps there is a software issue since the car has generally been running fine M-F (and again, I drive about 2 hours daily on the highway).

2007 Ford Edge SE. Very first, very basic. But it works. Hopefully this will help somebody out there.. I know this has been a frustration of mine for quite some time now. Here's the abridged version. Never worked on cars before - fast learner and attention to detail. 1. Transmission seemed to start slipping; didn't do anything about it until seemed to be persistent/safety concern. 2. Drained Transmission oil (there's a simple drain plug on bottom of transaxle, sticks out) and refilled. Required 10 quarts, though about 1.5 quarts remained from the old fluid, so needed to drain some of the extra to level off correctly. Did NOT see metal flakes in the old (disgustingly black) transmission oil. Smelled burnt, definitely not a lifetime oil, and serious concern for transmission health. Transmission works fine, it just seems the car is getting old and worn and should be handled with more care than previously given (don't drive as a performance car if it ain't designed for it). 3. Week later, car slow to start. By third time starting it that day, won't start and need jump from running vehicle. Battery is only a year old, under warranty got it replaced. THEN, five days later, car SUDDENLY really slow to start.. obvious problem. Don't want to bother auto store with more battery tests, talk to mechanics at Jiffy lube and listen to car.. Diagnosis: - No normal signs of Alternator issues - Starter is turning, probably not the issue, could be though since alternator seems not to be source - Fuel pump likely culprit (but ford put them inside the gas tank, so that's a pain in the ass and unrealistic to fix) Go back to get battery tested, it's completely dead. Considering new option.. 4. Replaced starter. When starting first time, it sounds like the engine has a better grasp and run on itself, though it's still slow to start. Take it back to Auto store, run test, battery dead. That's only 6 days with the new battery. It's now believed that there's likely an electrical issue that's causing the battery to drain. CURRENT DAY.. Through a post on this thread I've determined it's possible to service your own fuel pump, but that the electrical issue may just be the wires feeding into the fuel pump, causing it to slow possibly from corrosion or a blockage of some sort. Learned that you can take out the seats, but it's a sweaty job in TX. 5. Fuel Pump inspection.. HOW TO GET THERE.. a. take out floor in back b. take out smaller rear passenger-side seat first (will need deep socket wrenches and some legit strength, some of those nuts are tight), THEN driver-side rear seat. c. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO SEATS. d. lift carpet and use regular phillips screw head to open floor to access fuel pump electrical connections.. .. Resuming in the afternoon. I seriously lack in electrical knowledge, but I grew up around people who understood it so I feel confident I can atleast recognize if there's a legit burn or corrosion.

A couple days ago I was driving my 2011 Ford Edge, doing 55 mph and everything was fine and then everything on my dash went out and everything dropped to zero but I was still driving along and then I decided to pull over into a parking lot and when I started turning it was really hard to turn the wheel. So I turned my edge off and then turned it back on and everything was fine and I made it home without anymore issues. I don't know if my edge stalled or it was something to do with the power steering. This is the first time that I have had this happen to me. If someone could help me figure out what is going on that would be great!

Post only resolutions of problems and issues. If you can link to a video or other thread that provides fixes great. This should only be used for this purpose so we can come and start reading how to do/fix/resolve repairs/problems.

Hello, FE Forum! Wish my first post was under different circumstances. My wife's 2012 SEL Eco has been having off and on battery issues. Sometimes not driving for 8-12 hrs results in dead battery. She was getting fed up with how unreliable the car was becoming, so I changed the first thing I know to - the battery. Before this I attempted to jump it with my jumper pack. The jumper pack didn't have enough juice, so after I attempted to start it, there was this very fast clicking noise coming from driver side engine compartment. I went and got new battery, mega tron 2 65, installed it, go to start it and it starts but I smell burnt fuses. Immediately notice that the sync was completely black, and inop, as were the flashers and a few others. I replaced the fuses that tested popped under the driver area. Looked at the high side and the fuses all tested good. Hooked it back up to battery and started it and it turned over but with in a few minutes went to a low power limp mode. It eventually died. Brand new battery was reading 9.4volts! Alternator was putting out 14, so it was good. Check wiring harness and the 200amp circuit breaker on the battery terminal popped. Replaced that circuit breaker and charging system is up and good, car drives, AC, sync, everything is running good, except for the flashers, turn signals, and HIDS. The passenger right Amber light (where it has "edge" engraved) is on non stop, unless I pull its fuse. The back driver side Amber light is also on non stop unless I pull its fuse. The blinkers won't work at all, even though the instrument cluster shows them on and blinking. While driving the passenger side HID is significantly brighter than the drivers side. I've tested all the fuses and they all check out, pulled relays in the high distro box and they had no significant effect. The CES light was on and threw a code for pcm write failure - too early. Cleared it but it's still showing as a "permenent code". Do these edges have a seperate bcm? Or does the pcm control everything? Thanks in advance, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

My car keeps randomly disabling when conditions seem to be really wet. All the lights on the dash flash, horn honks, sometimes disables the ability to take the car out of park. Dash will randomly not light or work (including blinkers). Any thoughts on what the problem is? It has 120,000 miles. Started happened twice before T about 100k miles but then stopped until this week.

2009 Ford Edge Sport - Last night while driving the interior dash lights and navigation started flickering. High beams indicator stays on, but can't actually get them to turn on. Navigation system will not turn back on. Most of the dash warning lights will not turn off. Husband disconnected the battery, but still having same issues. any suggestions??? Thanks

Hey guys... I'm going to be troubleshooting this problem this weekend but I'm wondering if anyone can provide some heads up to save me time. Basically what happens is that the car won't start due to a dead battery. I was just about to run out and buy a replacement (expensive suckers!) but decided to see if the alternator was fine. In the end I discovered that the car draws about 2 A of current when off (keys out of the ignition, etc...). I'm sure this is not normal. Has anyone come across this? If so, what did you find? thanks!