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The factory tires Pirelli Scorpion on my 2015 Edge Sport are shredding....WHY??

For Sale - 4 Ford Edge Sport 21" Rims & Tires. These are 2016 factory Ford rims with factory Pirelli Scorpion tires on them. Tire size is 265/40 R21. Ford TPMS sensors are installed in the rims. A matched factory set. Excellent condition. I bought these as a spare set for our 2016 Ford Edge Sport, but have never used them. The tread depths of the tires varies from 6/32nds to 9/32nds. New tread depth for these tires is listed by Pirelli as 12/32nds. There are two curb marks that I have included pictures of. You can buy these rims used from Detroit Wheel & Tire for $350 per wheel, the tires are $220 each (new), and the TPMS sensors are ~$50. Add mounting, balancing and you are well over $2k. $1,250. Located in central Ohio. Will drive to the edges of the state to meet. Prefer not to ship. Thanks - Doug

Hello I decided to downsize my Edge Sport wheels and have for sale a set of 4 factory 22” bright machined chrome and black wheels complete with tires (40-50%) and TPMS sensors. Two Wheels have light scuffs but otherwise in great condition. Asking $1600 OBO I am in Alabama and would meet at a reasonable distance or ship at buyers cost.

The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools. Tools needed: 7/16" open end wrench 7/16" socket #2 Phillips screwdriver T20 Torx screwdriver Thin common screwdriver for prying Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets Overview: To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera. Step 1: Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel. Step 2: On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside. Step 3: Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it. Step 4: Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud. Step 5: This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit. Step 6: Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera. Step 7: Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place. Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!

Hi everyone, brand new here. We will be purchasing my mother-in-laws babied 2010 SEL AWD in a few weeks. I would like to get the Ford factory roof rails and crossbars installed, but want to make sure that the Yakima box I already have been using on our Moutaineer will clear the rear hatch when opened. Our Moutaineer won't even do this, so I fear I may be out of luck seeing as the Edge has quite a bit less roof real estate. If someone has a 2010 with factory roof rack, can you measure the distance from the front roof rail (pushed all the way forward) to the hinge on the hatch? That should give me a good idea if my current box will fit with the hatch extended all the way up. Thanks!

Hi Everyone, I'm brand-new to the forum (brand-new owner of a 2007 Ford Edge), and I have a question about the factory stereo in my 07 Edge SEL Plus. It's the 6CD changer deck. Can anyone direct me to specifications on this stereo, such as: Type of amplifier (Mosfet?) Type of DAC RMS output/bandwidth Number of outputs Any and all other details available I'm considering replacing the factory stereo with an aftermarket deck, but I'd like to be able to compare specs before purchasing a replacement. I'm also hopeful that a new deck will breathe new life into the factory speakers (as I've seen (heard) happen before), but the specs on the original factory stereo would help me make a better judgement call. Any and all replies are MUCH appreciated! And I apologize if this topic has already been covered; if it has, just point me to the proper post, and I'll get out of here. Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Alan