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2022 Edge Titanium. One morning would start, but then stalled after about a minute -- in traffic!. Had towed to dealer. Diagnosis on my repair sheet reads: "FDRS_ U0109 & P025A. PPT KC. KC1-CK FOR CODES. KC2-CK Voltage to fuel pump control module -9.6. KC7-CK Power Circuit for Open- Pulled Fuel Pump Relay - Now Have Power." Well, I drove the car home (10 miles) - check engine light went on, and my app reported two errors - "An electrical fault with the fuel pump control module has occurred. This could result in a vehicle no start condition. The engine Start/stop feature may not be active when this fault is present." and "The powertrain control module lost communication with the fuel pump control module for a period of time. This alert may be accompanied with additional alerts and the vehicle may not start when the fault is present." Brought it back to dealer. The dealer said that Ford Engineering told them to replace "overlay wires". Dealer disagreed with Ford Engineering! They reset the Chek Engine light, drove it for 30 miles, and says it seems OK. Needless to say, without an explanation I don't have much faith that the car won't do this again. I am planning to bring to a different dealer, but in the meantime -- any thoughts out there? (I previously posted this in the 3.5L forum)

Hi Not sure if this is the best place to ask not sure how this forum works to be honest. Anyway I have a 2011 Ford Edge sel awd, out of the blue today it wouldn't start. I had a mechanic come out who sad it needed a new fuel pump. the battery is fine the starter is fine. The only way he could get it to start was by banging on the fuel tank with a hammer, he explained this is one of the easiest ways to test if the fuel pump is the problem. He has said he can fix it but the best way to do it is to buy the fuel pump online and he will fit in, I am somewhat of a newbie to doing this so I am just looking for advice is this a typical thing to do? I searched a few websites and found rockauto.com I found the part I needed BT4Z9H307C I have bought it and will get him to install it. I guess my main question is why they vary ni price so much. the one I bought is $65 v $350-450 on other websites for the exact same thing. Thanks

I saw a post on here about possibly replacing the fuel pump from the cabin. It said there's a panel under the rear seat that can be removed to access the tank. It seems that this panel does not exist on the 2010 limited model. There is a small oval cutout to access the top of the pump but I find I can't even get my hand through to unplug the electronics. Not I'm going to have to drop the tank and replace the pump the hard way. It looks like the tank straddles the exhaust so I'm thinking that may need to come down as well. Does anyone know of an easier way to go about this? I'm tempted to cut through the floor. I'll try to put up some pictures tomorrow.

Hi guys, First off, I apologize if this isn't the correct place to put this topic. I'm new here I have a 2014 Ford Edge SEL AWD. The last few days I've been noticing some strange things. When I stop at a stop sign, leave off the brake and then push the gas, there's a delay, and then like a thump, and then it goes. I notice that if I stay between 40-50mph, it will shutter? hesitate? when it shifts. I don't notice it at higher speeds (60-70). When going up a hill, it seems like I have to push the pedal the whole way to the floor for it to catch up and get the power it needs. It also doesn't seem to have as much power when I press on the gas. There's a delay before it wants to take off. Does anyone have any ideas? I was thinking fuel pump possibly? I'm still under warranty, as I'm only at 31,000 miles. Thanks in advance!

2007 Ford Edge SE. Very first, very basic. But it works. Hopefully this will help somebody out there.. I know this has been a frustration of mine for quite some time now. Here's the abridged version. Never worked on cars before - fast learner and attention to detail. 1. Transmission seemed to start slipping; didn't do anything about it until seemed to be persistent/safety concern. 2. Drained Transmission oil (there's a simple drain plug on bottom of transaxle, sticks out) and refilled. Required 10 quarts, though about 1.5 quarts remained from the old fluid, so needed to drain some of the extra to level off correctly. Did NOT see metal flakes in the old (disgustingly black) transmission oil. Smelled burnt, definitely not a lifetime oil, and serious concern for transmission health. Transmission works fine, it just seems the car is getting old and worn and should be handled with more care than previously given (don't drive as a performance car if it ain't designed for it). 3. Week later, car slow to start. By third time starting it that day, won't start and need jump from running vehicle. Battery is only a year old, under warranty got it replaced. THEN, five days later, car SUDDENLY really slow to start.. obvious problem. Don't want to bother auto store with more battery tests, talk to mechanics at Jiffy lube and listen to car.. Diagnosis: - No normal signs of Alternator issues - Starter is turning, probably not the issue, could be though since alternator seems not to be source - Fuel pump likely culprit (but ford put them inside the gas tank, so that's a pain in the ass and unrealistic to fix) Go back to get battery tested, it's completely dead. Considering new option.. 4. Replaced starter. When starting first time, it sounds like the engine has a better grasp and run on itself, though it's still slow to start. Take it back to Auto store, run test, battery dead. That's only 6 days with the new battery. It's now believed that there's likely an electrical issue that's causing the battery to drain. CURRENT DAY.. Through a post on this thread I've determined it's possible to service your own fuel pump, but that the electrical issue may just be the wires feeding into the fuel pump, causing it to slow possibly from corrosion or a blockage of some sort. Learned that you can take out the seats, but it's a sweaty job in TX. 5. Fuel Pump inspection.. HOW TO GET THERE.. a. take out floor in back b. take out smaller rear passenger-side seat first (will need deep socket wrenches and some legit strength, some of those nuts are tight), THEN driver-side rear seat. c. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO SEATS. d. lift carpet and use regular phillips screw head to open floor to access fuel pump electrical connections.. .. Resuming in the afternoon. I seriously lack in electrical knowledge, but I grew up around people who understood it so I feel confident I can atleast recognize if there's a legit burn or corrosion.

Have a 2007 Edge fwd. Have had no problems until recently would not start shortly after being driven a few minutes earlier. Could not find similar thread. Turns over fine, not a battery issue. Fuel pump not making noise. Plenty of fuel in tank. Checked and switched around relays and fuses with no apparent fix. Jiggled wires above fuel tank/pump, with no apparent fix. Tapped (banged) on bottom of tank... seemed to work... turned key, fuel pump comes on, car cranks and runs fine for another week without even a sputter. Same thing again... no fuel pump noise, car not starting after being driven earlier that morning... did all of the above again... relays, fuses, tank wires, banging on tank... and this time reset the inertia switch in the back quarter panel. Nothing. Sits for 2 days, go to put in nuetral and roll back... put key in, turn key on, pump runs, car cranks and runs fine. Trying to avoid removing fuel pump from tank if there is any other possible solution. Any other thoughts or better ways to test relays for intermittent failure? Also, any idea what the fule pump diode is/does? Located with the relays and fuses, but just looks like a small black opaque fuse. I think it keeps power from traveling one way, but not sure if it can fail or how to check. Thanks, cb

My fuel gauge stack on full, want to replace fuel sending unit, anyone can give me tips how to remove wire harness, fuel line and metal ring around . found fuel sending unit 33$+shipping rock auto dot com thanks