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Hello everyone. First sings first, I need help with c211 connector diagram. I got my EDGE(2015) in 2019, in my opinion a very good \ reliable car, BUT! The floor mat was always wet, but not so much, I just put the weathertech mat....since then never felt any wet floor mats.... I think everything was okay because the car was parked inside a garage all the time until I started some construction in my House, after a few rains started noticing some splashes when driving, (at that time drove the car only once per two weeks or so) and then a few months later keyless access, remote start and TPMS stopped working at once. I started my investigation I found a lot of water (was a week of heavy rains) inside the car, I found out it was a som manufactory f*kup called 15B21 A-Pillar water leak. Removed all the water from the car, put a few dehumidifiers inside, found out what going on with all modules, and traced the TPMS module from the roof to the BCM one of the connector (c211) is heavily oxidized because... it has a +12 wire that is always hot + wet mats, so completely rotted one tiny k-line wire blue one, which connected RTM to BCM, also I think was a short, because that connector has +12v and at RTM also 12v but from another line, possible to short on grond or +12 to +12 through that connector., so but I decide ti replace all terminals .... I already ordered terminals for replacement, but I need to understand what else is connected to that connector, can't find any connector diagram for 2015 Ford EDGE.

I have a 2015 Edge SE, wile it doesn't say i have intelligent access on the sticker, I do have the FOBs the rear gate is intelligent access and the front doors have the wiring and the lock/lines for it. I know this because a. you can see the last two but i had the dealer in California take the door out td they said if your car is equipped it will have wiring, well it does have it, thatch said I am not sure but they may be able to activate it. So my question is does anyone know if its true that it can just be "activated" for the front doors? also does the gas door lock? it doesn't seem like it.

Hi guys recently got a 2013 edge limited with 60,000km. When you manual start (push start) the HVAC blower blows on full blast and the sync screen is black meanwhile on the right gauge cluster display it says "temporarily lost connection with touch screen". One you hit the power button on the stereo the screen turns on and everything works as normal. When you remote start the vehicle the screen stays black, no HVAC at all, no heated seats, nothing. And yes in the instrument panel all remote settings are set to auto and it is -20°C here. Also noticed when you open the car door when it is off the sync screen doesn't like off. It's like it's not getting a power signal without manually turning it on. Also not sure if this affects anything but the door keypad also doesn't work, I think the 7/8 button is stuck in as all keys are unresponsive and don't light up the keypad except for the 9/0 key which by pressing it, it will lock the doors without even hitting the 7/8 key. I've been trying to use forscan to figure out the issue but I only find f150 or super duty forscan pages. Only DTC on forscan is on the HVAC Module and says lost connection with BCM. Any suggestions?

Sadly I have misplaced one of my key fobs for my 2011 Edge Sport, Im wondering if I can purchase any Ford Key Fob (i.e. Ford Fusion, Mustang, Lincoln, etc) to program to my system? Anyone know?

Hello, My wife's car (2011 Edge Limited) was broken into at her work and the thieves stole her owner's manual - which has the card with the "Master Code" for the keyless entry system (think: the keypad on the door, not the "REMOTE Keyless Entry" system...) So, basically, if the criminals know what they have, they could come and go in her car whenever they want without setting off the slightest alarm. Maybe even pop up in the car one day (praying not). Anyway, I've been told that the solution seems to be to replace the "Smart Junction Box" which looks like, basically, the fuse box by the driver's left foot, which has some electronics in it. The price of the part doesn't look *too* outrageous. Also, I'm told that the vehicle will need to be hooked up the the dealer (or licensed technician's) computer to program the car to work with the box. Basically, my questions are: Can anyone confirm that this is the only part that will need to be replaced in order to eliminate the usage of the existing Master Code? Can anyone confirm that it does, in fact, need to be programmed by the shop (or the vehicle programmed to recognize it, not sure which way it works, or both)? On a slight tangent, is it universally true that the current code is printed on the existing SJB (I haven't looked yet, but part of verifying that it is changed is knowing what it was originally, which I don't because somebody stole it)? Thanks, in advance, to whomever is willing to help me answer these questions! --mobrien118

Over the past week I have been having issues with my driver's side door handle sensors and keypad. The passenger side door works fine. Maybe 35% of the time, the front door doesn't respond to any touches. Touches to lock it by touching the front bump, to unlock it by sticking my hand behind the door handle, and the numbered keypad does not respond. My FOB has new batteries in it and functions as normal. Remote start, locking and unlocking the car, and push to start all function properly with the FOB. In the past week I have also received warnings that my driver's side door is not closed. Sometimes I have to slam the door for the warning to go away. Also, there have been times when I go to lock the car by touching the handle and nothing works until I slam the door closed. Today, slamming the door didn't work and I had to use the FOB to lock it up. I do not like slamming my car door and I was wondering if anyone had any insight on what might be going on before I take it to the dealer. Is there anything I can check myself? If you need more info on what's going on, just let me know. Thanks!