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I read a number of posts here and spent more painstaking hours than I care to confess trying to get the power straightened out for my recent ROVE R3 dash cam installation. As we all know, that driver's-side dashboard fuse panel is ridiculously difficult to access---but not impossible with tremendous patience and non-stop self-encouragement! Since it seems that Ford mixes things up a bit on the fuse panel each year, I want to share where I ultimately landed---in hopes of alleviating some of the burden for others. So here it is: My "constant power" fuse tap is the 30A "spare" in socket 28. The "ACC" fuse tap is the 10A "Delayed accessory..." in socket 2. I tried quite a number of different combinations before achieving access with this. If you have a 2021, I hope this saves you some effort. Cheers! Archer

Hi All, Firstly, thanks for all your diligent work on this forum, it's incredible. I recently replaced my: inner & outer tie rods, sway bar link, and both rear wheel bearing hubs on my 2008 Ford Edge AWD Limited, mostly thanks to forums and Youtube. Thanks! Now I'm stuck on trying to figure out why my fuse for the power seat and exterior power mirrors keeps blowing out. I've changed it like 3 times. They work for a few days, then blow out without me touching anything. One day they just stop working. I've removed the panel covering the wires looking for a short on the way to the seat, looked under the seat, and pulled up the switch for the mirrors and can't find a short anywhere. The fuse is " #12, 7.5 Exterior rear view mirror switch, Driver Seat Module (DSM), Left power seat switch " in the smart junction box. If anyone can help solve this mystery I will be forever grateful. My wife can't drive my Edge without me replacing the fuse so she can move the seat forward. Cheers, Luke

I have a 2008 edge limited I purchased in May and now have the darndest thing happen with my liftgate. The first issue was when I would use any button to open the liftgate it would open, ding 3 times and then start to automatically close. It wouldn't do this all the time, but frequently. I read to try to reset it by opening and then closing manually. This would periodically work, but it always happened again. Now, however, the power feature is not working at all. Power liftgate is "on" from the instrument panel. When I push any of the buttons it "clicks" like it is enagaging but it never opens. I have to open it manually and it has a lot of resistance. Once manually opened it will not stay open it wants to fall back closed right away. My head has been in the way several times so needless to say I want to get this issue resolved ASAP.

Hi folks - I am looking for way to get wiring to the battery from inside the cabin of my Ford Edge 2017 Titanium 2.0 ECOBoost. It looks like a tough task. I need to be able to pull about 10 amps and this will not work through a cigarette lighter outlet. Is there some convenient way to run two wires? Say 8 gauge or 10 gauge wires.... need a hole through to the cabin or is there perhaps some other clever high current outlet in the cabin? I can;t even see how to GET T)O the rear terminal on the battery as it is up under the rear of the hood compartment.

Hi all, I've had several gremlins in my 2015 Ford Edge Titanium 2.0 EcoBoost. I've had the car for 18 months, and 28k. about 6 months ago was my first major issue... the car electrically recycled while driving on the highway... it came back on and I was able to drive, but it was a VERY scary full second with my child in the car. Fast forward 2 days at the dealer... they can't find why it did that. Next issue... Stupid gps map card went bad... this happens so it's fine. 3rd issue... the support arm/hydraulic for the tailgate breaks and the darn thing falls on me and hits me in the head. Fast forward to this past weekend... 4th issue... My cameras start to act up and my MyTouch. I put the car in reverse, the camera doesn't turn on. I try to change from Sirius to Bluetooth, it won't work. 30 min later I try to use my forward camera to park, nope that doesn't work either. I turn the car off and chop it up to gremlins... again Now to today's issue... 5th issue... which involves yet again my 3 yr old (which makes for Mama bear to not be happy). I get out of the car to prep the car for fuel... I leave the engine on... and before anyone yells at me... it's COLD where I live and my 3 yr old was in the car, frankly I'm GLAD I left it on too because of what happened. I close my driver door and go to the pump to swipe my credit card... I hear the DOORS LOCK... I think okay not a problem, the Keys are in my pocket (and no, nothing hit the keys). I go to open the door... no go. I unlock the car with the fob... NO GO. I punch in the CODE to get in... NO GO. I walk around the car to the back to open the tailgate.. NO GO. I kick under the car (key in my pocket)... NO GO. I walk over to my daughters carseat and notice her DVD is on the opening screen, it was in the middle of the movie when I got out.... This tells me the car recycled electrically again like what happened on the highway 6 months ago. So here I am, my child is locked in the car, I'm locked outside the car... cell phone is in the car. Waiting for my husband to come with the spare key to use a physical key to get in the car. About 45 min into waiting, the car automatically unlocks. I didn't touch the key or the door, it just unlocked again. I open the car door, and the car was as if I did a remote start. All the screens were off. And note, the car engine was running the entire 45 minutes, and it's programmed to shut off after 30 mins of idle. As of this moment, I've had 2 serious issues with my 3 year old in the car. I'm not comfortable keeping this car with a kid. Thankfully my local dealer is taking the car to try to look at it tonight, but I'm very concerned. The first time a gremlin appeared my daughter and I were almost hit by a tractor trailer as the car lost power while driving on the highway, this time it locked her in the car. Has anyone else had issues like these with the Edge's? I'm considering writing a letter to Ford. I'm also hoping that the dealership can find something this time, but I'm fearful I will get the same "it's a gremlin that can't be replicated, let us know when it happens again". Because I'm sick of that response.

I have a 2015 Edge 3.5L. We previously experienced the loss of power / stall issue (see http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19171-edge-loss-of-power-stalling/).Dealership had the vehicle for about a week addressing this issue and a couple of other items. On Tuesday evening this week, our Edge stalled again--the first time since the PCM flash. This time, we were driving and the vehicle stalled. We were able to stop safely, and the vehicle started again after putting it in park. I contacted the dealer the next morning. Our salesman is a long-term employee and superb. Within the hour the dealership had involved 6 people including the owner. They asked us to bring the vehicle to them. They put us in a new Edge with only 8 miles in order to drive during a holiday trip and told us they would get this problem fixed. I am really pleased with the dealership. I am also concerned about whether they or Ford can get this problem fixed. Anyone else have the PCM flash and then their Edge stall after the PCM Flash? We have also lost about 3mpg in average mileage since the PCM flash.

I have a 2011 Edge Limited, 40,000 miles. While driving Edge has loss of power, big wrench shown on instrument panel. Turn off engine & restarts. This has happen twice in two weeks. Ford service said no fault codes, they do not no what is happening. This is dangerous, and keeps happening, Ford will not be in my future.

We've got a mint 2008 MKX AWD w/ ~82k on the odometer. We love the car, save for one minor issue: The Power Liftgate rarely, if ever, opens (or closes) automatically. I have tried the various reset methods mentioned in other threads to no avail. If it helps, I can post a video later, but here's what happens in the two possible scenarios: Liftgate closed: pushing the key fob button twice or the button below the instrument panel causes the lock to actuate but the Liftgate never opens automatically. There is the familiar *ding* *ding* *ding* sound that appears to be emitted from the rear of the vehicle. When I grab the Liftgate handle, press the button on the underside and lift the gate, there is considerable resistance and it doesn't seem to want to "pop" open. There are no noises that would make me think the actuator assembly is binding, it's just hard to pull open. Liftgate opened: pushing the key fob button twice or the button below the instrument panel causes the lock to actuate but the Liftgate never closes automatically. There is the familiar *ding* *ding* *ding* sound that appears to be emitted from the rear of the vehicle. When I attempt to close the Liftgate manually, the resistance "feels" normal and is fairly easy to close. To put it simply... I push a button to open or close the Liftgate The lock on the Liftgate actuates I hear a series of *ding* sounds (I believe 3 or 4) The Liftgate doesn't move at all I suspect (hopefully) that the struts are just trashed and should be replaced. What complicates the problem is that 2 out of 5 times, the door will open and close just fine, and sadly I never remember to make note of the conditions during the times that it does work. If it were truly the struts, I would expect them to perform poorly in extremely hot or cold temperatures (it's 100 every day here in Austin at the time of this post). Any other ideas? As I've said, I tried the various Liftgate reset procedures with no improvement. The car is obviously out of warranty and I'm hopeful that the motor/actuator that powers the Liftgate isn't toast. Thanks in advance!

I have a 2010 Ford Edge SEL and I was just noticing tonight that the four window switches on the driver arm rest are all illuminated, however the window lock switch is not. Also noticed that the passenger power window switch and the two rear door power window switches are not illuminated. Is this as designed?