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Hello, I saw another forum post about this topic but unfortunately it has not been active for multiple years. I have a 2011 Ford Edge SEL and unfortunately have been plagued with the black display screen. From what I have read it sounds like I have (like everyone else) a bad APIM. I was wondering if anyone had any idea on suggestions for an economical replacement or repair for this issue. I am also interested in purchasing or trading if anyone has a replacement that is on this forum (please let me know if not allowed and will edit post). Also if anyone can provide links or model numbers for a direct replacement. Thank you for all of your help in advance! 2011 Ford Edge SEL Vin: 2FMDK4JC8BBA94640 8 inch screen with Navigation

The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools. Tools needed: 7/16" open end wrench 7/16" socket #2 Phillips screwdriver T20 Torx screwdriver Thin common screwdriver for prying Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets Overview: To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera. Step 1: Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel. Step 2: On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside. Step 3: Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it. Step 4: Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud. Step 5: This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit. Step 6: Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera. Step 7: Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place. Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!

A short video to show you why you should change this filter often. Changing it will make the air cleaner and allow more flow when using your Heating or AC.

Hey all, I recently purchased a 2007 Edge and have already replaced the stock speakers in the doors with Polk Audio 6x8's in the rear doors and Polk Audio dxi6501 components in the front doors. Next comes the sub... I have read that the Polk DVC840 is a direct drop in, but is there any other sub that would fit the bill from other companies, such as JL Audio, or others? I would like some more definition, and some decent low end. I realize that it is only an 8" and am not expecting bass miracles. Also, is there any fiberfill in the stock enclosure, or is it an empty chamber? I haven't pulled the rear panel for the sub yet, so this is the inquiring mind questions coming out. Thanks in advance for any and all responses! Gary W.

Hello, I just broke the black mesh on the front bumper of my 2015 edge sport. I have been looking all over the internet for the replacement part but I can't find anything. can anyone point me in the right direction? thank you in advance.

I'm selling the three replacement grill pieces for a 2011-2014 edge. My husband bought it for me for Christmas and it was primered but my dad painted it (he's a professional body guy) tuxedo black to match my tuxedo black 2011 Ford Edge Limited. I got a new car so I don't need it and would love to give her a new home $200 plus whatever shipping costs from my zip code (95501). Thanks for reading this and tell your friends!!

Hi, My wife's 2007 Edge has been overheating. For a while it seems that the A/C is blowing hot air during idle. Then one day she was at a stop and the engine temp pegged and the radiator seemed to spit out all of the coolant around the reservoir area. She had it towed home. I refilled with coolant and took it on a drive with the A/C on max. About five minutes in it started to overheat. I took it back home with the temp showing still at max. I popped the hood and saw that the two radiator/cooling fans were not moving. My guess was it was the fans, controller or fuse went bad. To troubleshoot I unplugged each fan from the fan controller module and and connected each one to the battery independently one at a time.I used alligator clips to connect each of the leads to the battery. Neither one turned when I did this. Was this the proper way to test,, or is there a way I need to put the fans in a series for them to work directly with the battery? I'm thinking the fans burned out, one may have been working on it's own and finally gave out. I found some posts on this forum with people who had the similar issues and they replaced the fan assembly. One post mentioned instructions on how to replace the assembly somewhere on this forum, but I could not find them. So in short my question is did I test properly and if anyone has the instructions on how to replace the fan assembly. Thanks for reading and your help... -Ezra

Has anybody had tried to replace the stock subwoofer with this one: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=267-2510 It seems to be a serious upgrade over the stock one, I manage to get onefor real cheap, and honestly it will give you more volume in the box, and also a lot more refined design...but I could not find any link that shows how to remove the old one, I know that sometime back it was a description, even with pics, on how to remove the stock one, I was not able to find it now....Does anybody knows where to get that info????

My fuel gauge stack on full, want to replace fuel sending unit, anyone can give me tips how to remove wire harness, fuel line and metal ring around . found fuel sending unit 33$+shipping rock auto dot com thanks

My driver side B Pillar is scratched/dented. I have a 2013 SEL w/appearance package. I want to replace the glossy B Pillar but can't find it anywhere. The only thing I can find is a peel and stick to put over it. Thanks

******SOLD***** That center channel Sony in your Edge is junk. If you don't believe me it's very easy to pop the grill off and remove the speaker. Take a look at it. It's bottom of the line. I have the solution. I purchased a pair of Infinity 3.5" dual cone speakers and obviously only need one of the pair. The model is the Infinity Reference 3032cf 3.5-Inch, 75-watt High Performance Two-Way Loudspeaker. I know it fits because I've already put one to use and it sounds great. The first PM for $20 plus a few bucks for shipping can have it and you don't have to buy a pair only to end up with an extra speaker like me! I can also be reached at cdpratt69@gmail.com Chris