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Found 13 results

  1. What do you need to change or replace on a 2008 Ford Edge with 230,000 miles. I have replaced a total of three wheel bearings with the right front requiring two. (more on that later). I have just finished replacing on both right and left front the following parts. The strut bearing mounts (right front was completely worn) making thumping sounds. The struts (both were completly worn and when pushed down did not extend) I recommend changing the struts and Mounts at 100k as it would be a much better ride. I also changed out the lower control arms/ball joints ( note these are press on and all one unit) The rubber sleeves in both control arms appeared in great shape, but the ball joints were loose with the right front ball joint being very worn and moving) The tie rod ends (outer) were both easily moved to the point that replacement was a better soulution. The Sway bar links had to be replaced just due to the fact that the bolts were so rusted that cutting them off was the only option, so plan on this. The right front wheel bearing was repalced a second time due the the strut and ball joint being so bad that the pressures on the bearing caused it to fail prematurely. The rear shock were changed when tire wear indicated that the shocks were worn, tire wear went away when this was done (look for cuping or inside abnormal wear on the inside tread. Test drive and my Ford Edge is now feeling like it did when I first bought it. Suspension always makes a difference.
  2. I recently had the front of my Edge repaired after a collision with a deer. The front left wheel arch was repaired, but it looks a lot different to the other side (right). I've attached two photos of the left - does this look correct? The suspension and engine look quite exposed...
  3. My 2010 SEL doesn't ride as well as it used to. Maybe because the steering and suspension parts are all original with 173K miles on them. However it does ride straight, no uneven tire wear, no strange noises, doesn't not sag on one side but the rear seems to sit lower these days. Pushing down on the body above each tire seems to be pretty stiff and it bounces back up HOWEVER......It does sway alot when turning and is real rough and loud over bumps "BANG". I also tow small trailers with it. I am researching what I should replace getting the ride back to a comfortable experience. I am planning on turning it over to my son when he gets his license and want it in the best mechanical condition. After a visual inspection, my thoughts are to replace: -Rear shocks, springs, sway bar links and bushings -Front strut/springs, sway bar links an bushings, upper/lower control arm I've priced all the parts on Rock Auto and realize the total investment I am looking for any advice on: -The best parts -What can to test to make sure I wont need to replace something, say like the springs -what to replace first in what order- rear or front first or all at once? -when to get an alignment Any advice is would be awesome!!
  4. I have a 2008 Ford Edge that is making a popping sound on both sides when turning either way, hitting bumps, and pretty much with any type of movement. It does not do just sitting still and turning the steering wheel or pushing down on the front end. My husband is a mechanic and he is lost. Several weeks ago, my drivers side ball joint broke when I was pulling out of a parking lot. We had it towed home and my husband replaced the lower control arm & axle. We took it for a test drive and that is when the popping sound started. The sound was only on the drivers side. So, here we are weeks later and my husband has now replaced just about every part on both sides; lower control arm, axle, struts, sway bar link, sway bar bushings. The only thing that we have not replaced is the tie rod ends. Nothing has fixed this horrible pop and it is now on both sides or at least it sounds like it is. Any ideas what it could be???
  5. Had right front strut plate replaced at 98,000 miles under warranty. While at rest and turning the steering wheel slightly left/right a clicking or popping sound could be heard. They replaced the right side but I am not so sure the left side may be having the same issue. I can reach under the fender a put my hand on the top of the spring near the plate, turn the steering wheel and feel the spring "jump" which is the noise heard inside. More to follow after some more miles.
  6. Hello, I recently purchased a 2014 Ford Edge, SEL with 17,000 miles on it. I recently started to hear an intermittent squeak/chirping noise from the front end while driving slowly (10-20mph). It seems to come on a bit more when I accelerate then disappears above 20 mph. Seems to do it after vehicle has warmed up. Car does not pull to either side, and sound seems to go away went brakes are applied, but maybe only because it is slowing down. Brakes appear good Could the CV joint, wheel bearings, etc. be already out with so few miles? Any zerk or lube joints I could hit in this area? Thank you for your time!
  7. Ok, so I had a few different questions about a few different topics and figured it would be easier to post them all in one place instead of posting all around the forum and waiting on responses.. First and foremost, I ordered new grille and tailgate billet blackout ford badges for my 14 Edge Sport, I know for the grille, the easiest way is to remove the grille to get behind the emblem and pop the clips, but as for the back, I've tried popping it out and it seems like that too is connected with some sort of clips. Do I need to remove part of the tailgate trim to remove the badge or should it just pop off and I'm not using enough force? I don't want to break or crack anything, hence my hesitation to pull any harder. Second, for removing the chrome stache below the hood for wrapping, do I need to remove the headlight assembly to get the two side pieces off? I've tried to remove them and have also failed with this. Third, I've been trying to decide whether or not to buy an ECU tuner but I'm having a hard time finding one that's compatible with the 14 3.7 na. Any suggestions? Last, I've been thinking about lowering springs but not sure how it will affect stiffness/body roll. Has anyone lowered their edge on h&r springs, and have you noticed a significant difference in handling? Any suggestions or advice would helpful, and thank you all in advance!
  8. sorry if this was posted somewhere else. anyway there is a rattle when starting off slow. its coming from the rear passenger wheel area. As the car starts out the clunking gets faster and it doesn't stay consistent with the spin of the tires just a gradual rattle. After 40-45 MPH it stops as if centrifugal force causes it to stop. It rattles and clunks when going over bumps and railroad tracks. It's a metallic rattle. I've looked underneath the car and to me it looked fine. The car steers fine and does not vibrate at all. It doesn't rattle in reverse or braking unless you hit a bump. Any help is useful thank you.
  9. 2013 Ford Edge Limited with 85,000 miles. I hear a chirping sound when I take off from a stop. Just one simple "chirp" Any ideas what is causing this? Thank you
  10. Hello, I have noticed that my 2007 Ford Edge has been making some slight vibrating noises when driving at high speeds of 100 km/h or more. Specifically from the front of the car. I removed my front right wheel and noticed that there is a steel rod that is no longer connected at one end. I've attached some pictures. Can someone please tell me what this might be? Thank you!!!
  11. I've watched the excellent videos from MAC and will refer to the AWD build thread here, but I was hoping to get a double-check on my gameplan (unsure of differences between AWD and FWD). Background: my girlfriend's struts are completely gone, and one of the bellows is torn/exposing the shaft. The left ball joint (I think, it's not the brakes) is making an intermittent metal scraping sound, so I told her to park it until I'm done. I assume the rear shocks are OEM too. Car has about 93k miles total. Goal: Ultimately, I'd just like to keep it on the road another 50k miles at least. Fix obvious issues like struts/ball joints, but also any other parts that are associated with this work while I have it apart. EG - I plan to replace the strut mounts, bushings, bellows, etc. in lieu of just swapping the strut. I'll plan to do ball joints left and right, even though only the left is dying (I think). Maybe I should do sway bar stuff as well? Tie rod ends? Wheel bearings? Spark plugs? Suspension : Control Arm MOOG RK620487 {#8T4Z3079A} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint R-Series Front Left Lower A $67.79 $67.79 MOOG RK620486 {#8T4Z3078A} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint R-Series Front Right Lower B $67.79 $67.79 Suspension : Shock Absorber KYB 349068 GR-2 / Excel-G Rear D $38.79 $77.58 Suspension : Strut Mount MOTORCRAFT AD1071 {#9T4Z18183A} Front Upper A $32.89 $65.78 Suspension : Strut Bellow SACHS 900096 (Only 4 Remaining) Front C $14.12 $28.24 Suspension : Strut KYB 334693 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Left D $80.79 $80.79 KYB 334692 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Right D $80.79 $80.79 Suspension : Coil Spring Insulator MONROE 907948 Strut-Mate Coil Spring Insulator Front Upper C $7.86 $15.72 Suspension : Strut Mount Bushing MOTORCRAFT AD1060 {#8T4Z18198A} Front A $5.16 $10.32 Suspension : Stabilizer Bar Link MOOG K750184 {#7T4Z5A486AA, 99633306904, L20628170} Problem Solver Rear; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces C $39.79 $79.58 MOOG K750159 {#7T4Z5K483A} Problem Solver Front; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing to Allow Grease to Penetrate Bearing Surfaces C $25.79 $51.58 Ignition : Spark Plug MOTORCRAFT SP411 {#AYFS22FM, AYFS22FMF4} Finewire Platinum Gap: .054 D $3.39 $20.34 Steering : Tie Rod End MOOG ES800473 {#7T4Z3A130A} Problem Solver Right Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces D $32.79 $32.79 MOOG ES800474 {#7T4Z3A130B} Problem Solver Left Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces D $32.79 $32.79 MOOG EV800576 {#7T4Z3280A} Problem Solver Inner D $28.79 $28.79 Looking at $754 shipped here, not sure if I'm completely overdoing it with the tie rod stuff and stabilizer bar links. I might be able to skimp on one of the LCA's for a little while. Just figured if I'm already down there and car is up in the air... Thoughts? I've priced out the KYB stuff for now
  12. Hey folks! I know this topic has been raised now and then, here & there. I hope to consolidate the interest in one place, in this thread. I am working through people on another site to help make this happen, and will need volunteers/guinea pigs for test & fitment. Please add a post with a list of aftermarket mods you would like to see available for your Edge/MKX, along with the type of vehicle you have. Additional options for the Ecoboost crowd. I will get this started: 2007 Edge SEL - 3.5L AWD Downpipes with high flow cats (and without for no-testing states) Coilovers Tuner Catback Exhaust System Cold Air Intake Kit Stabilizer Bar for front/rear (tuned to the vehicle)
  13. I am experiencing this problem since the day my vehicle got hit from another car on right side of my vehicle, impact came to my vehicle on wheel, fender and passenger side door. (pics attached) Ford Body shop has repaired the door & Fender and replaced the wheel rim, as it has big scratch on it. after the repair work done every morning when i cross first speed-breaker (bump) on my way to office it gives me click sound. I am unable to get from where it is coming (whether suspension, control arm or any other part connected to the front right wheel). This sound come only if vehicle speed is 20km/hr or above. if it cross the speed breaker below this speed then sound wont come. I have notified dealer in this regard, they kept the vehicle for 2days but remain unable to find anything. Need expert opinions.
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