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Found 33 results

  1. SSM 47398 – 2015-2018 Edge Vehicles – 2.0L EcoBoost With 6F35 Transmission – Rattle Noise From Engine Flex Plate Some 2015-2018 Edge vehicles equipped with a 2.0L EcoBoost and 6F35 transmission may exhibit a rattle noise from the transmission bellhousing area while running. This may be the result of a cracked engine flexplate. When replacing the flexplate, lubricate the torque converter pilot hub with Multi-Purpose Grease XL-5-A (ESB-M1C93- before reassembling. Make sure the transmission locator dowel pins are correctly installed. If the dowel pins were pulled out of the engine block, new dowel pins will need to be installed in the engine block. Failure to do so could result in a repeat repair. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01A. Engineering is investigating, monitor OASIS for updates. To assist with the investigation use the Report a Vehicle Concern link at the bottom of the OASIS report and fill out the form. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2015 – 2018 CAR: DQ CD539N EDGE
  2. Hi, I have 2008 Lincoln MKX with 136k miles. There is a slipping and jerking in transmission when it changes from 1,2,3 and 4. When I stay at constant speed 30M/h it can be clear and it lets the car to shake a little bit and that always happens. After reaching 60M/h the slipping stopped. In parallel there is a whining or whooshing sound increasing with acceleration over 30M/h and increased with speed (It sounds like airplane engine) I have recently changed the PTU at Ford dealer because of leak issue which costs $1800 but that did not solve the problem. I asked them to check maybe there is a misfire but they did a computer test and no misfire problem appears. The only thing I am thinking about now is to change the TSS and OSS sensors. It will cost me $600 but there is no guarantee that this will fix the problem. Other option is to change the whole transmission unit which will cost $2500 and I do not have budget for that. Please tell me what it could be the problem? Regards,
  3. My 2008 AWD Ford Edge appears to have "sticky" transmission in cold weather only. If car is standing outside in low temperatures for long period, the beginning of the ride is troubled with transmission not willing to shift to second gear revving up the RPMs. After period of a minute or so all resolves. It never happens in warm weather or even if car is standing in garage in winter. Any advice on what could cause that and whether there is is any simple remedy? Thanks for advice.
  4. Well, my topic title says it all. We bought this Edge Titanium less than 3 months ago - used - with 9,800 miles. Very low miles for a 2015. It now has 12,885 miles. Purchased this because we make several Cleveland Clinic trips a year and for us its about a 4 hour drive one way. We wanted something comfortable and dependable to travel in. HAHA! Ill never feel safe in this again. Mechanic said he sees this a lot, however not with such low miles (well, I surely hope not). He went ahead and ordered the parts, however, Ford still has to approve the repair (still under warranty and they better approve it). I wanted a new transmission, but they said they can only fix the faulty parts. So now Im pretty much in debt beyond my eye balls with this car and now with this issue, Im sure it will be reported to Car Fax. What does this mean to me? If and when I trade this beast, I will get screwed on any type of trade in offer. No longer a clean Car Fax. AND Ford will not give me a car to drive for the next 1 1/2 weeks (pretty sure it will be 2 weeks at least). And with another Cleveland Clinic trip almost upon us, I feel doomed. What a way to test new transmission parts better than to drive 8 hours in one day to Cleveland in the middle of January? Maybe Ill lose 1st, 2nd and 4th gear on the trip, woo hoo! Does anyone know if I have any recourse in this situation from the dealer I purchased it from?? Any advice is welcomed and thanks for letting me vent. Oh, did I mention it doesnt go into reverse either?
  5. Sorry if this has been posted, but all I could find in this section was PTU threads, lots of them. Where's the Trans oil dip stick and top-up cap on the 2017 Sport ? My handbook shows to move the air filter intake to the side to access it, but I don't see it on mine. I'm looking at taking advantage of a good deal running on a pack of 12 quarts Motocraft Mercon LV, and will exchange the trans oil with this when I reach 50 or 60K miles. Edit: I found it, tucked away under the coolant hose. It would be best to remove the complete air filter box to access it.
  7. Hi Everyone, I'm hoping someone with a little more knowledge about transmissions and cars in general can help me. For the past few months I've had an issue with 2007 Ford Edge shuddering at around 1500-2500 RPM. I finally took it to my mechanic and he told me he thinks it is the torque converter. He said since it's not that bad and the end result is going to be a transmission rebuild I should leave it until it gets unbearable. I have done some "google" research and came across a few different things. First, should I try a transmission stop slip product? There a re a few and I went to Canadian Tire I picked up Lucas Stop Slip but before I try it I want to find out if there is a better product that I should use instead. Second, I've had this vehicle for 3 years, I drive a lot and it has high milliege 200,000KM + I've never changed the spark plugs. Should I get that done to see if possible a misfire in the engine could be causing my torque converter to act crazy and they probably should be done anyway? I used to do this myself on my older cars but on the Edge it is a lot more difficult then simply changing the plugs and I'm not gonna start taking a part the manifold, I'd rather just pay someone else to do it. Please help, any other possible suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to prolong the life of my transmission as much as possible. Thanks in advance for any help that may be giving!
  8. Back in 2015, my 2008 Ford Edge had accelerating issues with diagnostic codes:P0715, P0717, P0720. My OSS & TSS speed sensors were replaced, codes cleared, etc. Now in 2017 (just shy of 2 years later) the car is showing delays when shifting into/from R and D. Additionally, the car seems to putter when I drive between 45-60mph. The car only has 85,000miles at 9 years old. My last oil change said the transmission fluid seemed a bit low (since the previous oil change) but nothing concerning or alarming. For all we know everything has been fine, except for the issue in 2015. We are taking it in to a transmission shop to have it looked at before it becomes really bad. Just wanted to see if anyone else out there has had these kinds of issues...and can provide some insight as to costs, etc, so we can brace ourselves.
  9. I have a 2008 Ford Edge, about 83,500 miles. My transmission started to stutter, jerk before shifting. This happens about 40-45 mph and around 60 mph. I took it to the dealer where I bought it. Now 3 vists later and spending $1700 for a new PTO unit and seals. I still have my original problem. It is most noticable when going up an incline. The tranny stutters, jerks, then RPMs climb and speed picks up a little. This is starting to happen more. The dealer does not know what is wrong with my car. Does anyone have any ideas?
  10. 6F35 – HARSH TRANSMISSION ENGAGEMENT DURING ACTIVE START/STOP EVENT AND DTC P0C27 Publication Date: September 1, 2016 2014-2016 Fusion, 2015-2016 Edge ISSUE: Some 2014-2016 Fusion and 2015-2016 Edge vehicles equipped with a 6F35 transmission and active start/stop feature may exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with a harsh transmission engagement after an active stop/start event. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0C27 will be stored in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory. This condition may be caused by air entering the transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the concern. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Using an Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) or equivalent scan tool retrieve DTCs. Is DTC P0C27 present in the PCM memory? a. Yes – proceed to Step 2. b. No – this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01. 2. Check the transmission build date. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. Was the transmission built on or before 2/26/2016? a. Yes – proceed to Step 3. b. No – this article does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 3. Remove the transmission fluid auxiliary pump. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 4. Remove and discard the transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube. (Figure 1) Figure 1 5. Install a new transmission fluid auxiliary pump supply tube which contains a check ball. 6. Reinstall the transmission fluid auxiliary pump. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. 7. Clear DTCs. PART NUMBER PART NAME DG9Z-7A136-B Gasket – Pump W715931-S437 Bolts – Pump (3 Req) DG9Z-7890-G Pick Up Tube XT-10-QLVC Motorcraft MERCON LV Automatic Transmission Fluid OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 160111A 2014-2016 Fusion, 2015-2016 Edge 6F35 Transmission: Retrieve DTCs And Replace The Transmission Fluid Auxiliary Pump Supply Tube (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.6 Hrs. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 7890 42
  11. TSB 16-0138 2.7L – 6F50/6F55 – BUZZ, HUM OR MOAN NOISE FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AT 40 KM/H (25 MPH) Publication Date: October 7, 2016 LINCOLN: 2016 MKX ISSUE: Some 2016 MKX vehicles equipped with a 2.7L engine and 6F50/6F55 transmission may exhibit a buzz, hum or moan noise from the engine compartment at 40 Km/h (25 MPH) and above or at engine speeds from 2000 to 3500 RPM. This may be due to the transmission fluid cooler tube. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure step to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Replace the transmission fluid cooler tube. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-02. PART NUMBER PART NAME G2GZ-7C410-A Transmission Fluid Cooler Tube XT-10-QLVC Motorcraft MERCON LV Automatic Transmission Fluid OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 160138A 2016 MKX 2.7L: Replace The Transmission Fluid Cooler Tube (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.9 Hr. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 7C410 42
  12. 2014-2016 Multiple Vehicles – 6F35 – Harsh Reverse And Harsh/Delayed 3rd And 5th Up/Down Shifts – Without DTCs – Built On 1-Jan-2014 And Through 31-Dec-2015 Multiple 2014-2016 vehicles equipped with 6F35 transmission and built on 1-Jan-2014 and through 31-Dec-2015 may exhibit harsh reverse engagement and harsh/delayed 3rd and 5th gear up/down shifts with no DTCs present. This may be due to a mechanically binding shift solenoid B (SSB). Verify harsh reverse and 3rd and 5th gear shift events are present. Using IDS, identify the band number of SSB for use when ordering parts. Remove the main control. Disassemble and thoroughly clean the valve body and solenoid body to remove any contaminants. Replace SSB, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM) section 307-01. Using IDS, clear transmission adaptive tables.
  13. Every now and then the transmission will kick out of "o/d off" and cancel cruise control, and the transmission repair light will turn on, so I put it in park, turn it off then back on. I hear a clunk when the motor turns over then it's usually find, may need to repeat the off and on step a few times but it acts normally after that, can't find any mechanic or other online source describing my issue. Thanks
  14. 2007 Ford Edge SE. Very first, very basic. But it works. Hopefully this will help somebody out there.. I know this has been a frustration of mine for quite some time now. Here's the abridged version. Never worked on cars before - fast learner and attention to detail. 1. Transmission seemed to start slipping; didn't do anything about it until seemed to be persistent/safety concern. 2. Drained Transmission oil (there's a simple drain plug on bottom of transaxle, sticks out) and refilled. Required 10 quarts, though about 1.5 quarts remained from the old fluid, so needed to drain some of the extra to level off correctly. Did NOT see metal flakes in the old (disgustingly black) transmission oil. Smelled burnt, definitely not a lifetime oil, and serious concern for transmission health. Transmission works fine, it just seems the car is getting old and worn and should be handled with more care than previously given (don't drive as a performance car if it ain't designed for it). 3. Week later, car slow to start. By third time starting it that day, won't start and need jump from running vehicle. Battery is only a year old, under warranty got it replaced. THEN, five days later, car SUDDENLY really slow to start.. obvious problem. Don't want to bother auto store with more battery tests, talk to mechanics at Jiffy lube and listen to car.. Diagnosis: - No normal signs of Alternator issues - Starter is turning, probably not the issue, could be though since alternator seems not to be source - Fuel pump likely culprit (but ford put them inside the gas tank, so that's a pain in the ass and unrealistic to fix) Go back to get battery tested, it's completely dead. Considering new option.. 4. Replaced starter. When starting first time, it sounds like the engine has a better grasp and run on itself, though it's still slow to start. Take it back to Auto store, run test, battery dead. That's only 6 days with the new battery. It's now believed that there's likely an electrical issue that's causing the battery to drain. CURRENT DAY.. Through a post on this thread I've determined it's possible to service your own fuel pump, but that the electrical issue may just be the wires feeding into the fuel pump, causing it to slow possibly from corrosion or a blockage of some sort. Learned that you can take out the seats, but it's a sweaty job in TX. 5. Fuel Pump inspection.. HOW TO GET THERE.. a. take out floor in back b. take out smaller rear passenger-side seat first (will need deep socket wrenches and some legit strength, some of those nuts are tight), THEN driver-side rear seat. c. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO SEATS. d. lift carpet and use regular phillips screw head to open floor to access fuel pump electrical connections.. .. Resuming in the afternoon. I seriously lack in electrical knowledge, but I grew up around people who understood it so I feel confident I can atleast recognize if there's a legit burn or corrosion.
  15. 07 Edge 3.5L AWD 127k miles When I have the Edge parked on an incline and shift out of park, the load dissipates and a loud "clunk" is heard as usual when reverse engages. However, this clunk continues to reverberate sometimes until i move off of the incline. It's almost like a tinny rattling sound, like something is bouncing around the front end of the vehicle once the transmission is in gear. The transmission also makes a strange sound in reverse, like a very quiet ticking when backing up an incline.
  16. The 6F50 has some rather problematic Turbine Shaft Speed and Output Shaft Speed sensors. The symptoms are described in the video and what to do when you have a total failure of the the sensors. There will be no prewarning lights. However the transmission will demonstrate symptoms that will tell you of the pending failure. If your 2007 through 2010 has more than 60K miles on it you are in the area of failure from that point on. Here is the video.
  17. Post only resolutions of problems and issues. If you can link to a video or other thread that provides fixes great. This should only be used for this purpose so we can come and start reading how to do/fix/resolve repairs/problems.
  18. Hello all, I am a new member, but I have referenced articles I've seen on the forum for a while now. I drive a 2007 Edge with about 120k miles. My wife got the vehicle from her ex in-laws several years ago, and I am uncertain whether any transmission service has been done to the vehicle. For several weeks I have been experiencing a slipping sensation while driving at highway speeds (I use the "" in the title because I am not certain that is what is actually happening, just what it feels like). I generally happens when I am at a constant speed and encounter a slight incline, or very gently accelerate. It never happens if I accelerate hard enough for the tranny to down-shift. I have seen that there are service bulletins for similar problems on other model years' Edges, but I have not seen such for the 07s. I was going to have a local franchise repair shop change the fluid, but the manager there told me that since I didn't have any service records for transmission work, and with the vehicle already having an issue, they wouldn't be able to change the fluid because they might make it worse... Any thoughts on how true that might be? I am now considering changing the fluid myself to see if that improves my issue. I have never changed transmission fluid (I have seen various posts about the drain plug on here) but have done other small repairs on other vehicles, so I am not completely helpless. So should I change out the fluid myself, or do I need to take it to a transmission shop or dealership? Thanks in advance for any help! It is greatly appreciated
  19. Preston4Jesus

    Grinding noise in MKX AWD around 40 mph

    I just got my 2007 Lincoln MKX AWD. I love the car but it has a funny grinding noise when it reaches about 40mph. Its always at that speed. If you drive in town below that or accelerate quickly on the highway it doesn't do it. Only when average driving at 40mph. Also sometimes the left front wheel makes a noise and the traction Control light comes on. If i turn off the TCS no noise in the wheel but at times the tranny noise is still present. It doesn't feel like a slip so much as it does a grinding or harsh noise. Its hard to describe. Also when I turn hard left from the stopped position it sometimes, usually after being parked for a while, it has a hesitation for a second almost like it would if it lost power or like you pinched the fuel line and then released it. I know this sounds weird but has anyone had these problems.
  20. This will demonstrate why you should change your transmission fluid sooner rather than later. Transmission fluid changes are cheap compared to the cost of a new transmission. This fluid flush was performed at a local shop I use monthly to perform oil changes, radiator fluid changes and oil changes.
  21. This is a review and unboxing of the Anchor industries transmission torque mount for the 2007 and 2008 Ford edge. The up close review and inspecion.
  22. Hey folks! I know this topic has been raised now and then, here & there. I hope to consolidate the interest in one place, in this thread. I am working through people on another site to help make this happen, and will need volunteers/guinea pigs for test & fitment. Please add a post with a list of aftermarket mods you would like to see available for your Edge/MKX, along with the type of vehicle you have. Additional options for the Ecoboost crowd. I will get this started: 2007 Edge SEL - 3.5L AWD Downpipes with high flow cats (and without for no-testing states) Coilovers Tuner Catback Exhaust System Cold Air Intake Kit Stabilizer Bar for front/rear (tuned to the vehicle)
  23. Carmen Connelly

    Oh no not Transmission issues again!

    I have a 2008 Edge SEL AWD and up until 7 months ago I had no trouble at all out of the vehicle. I've owned the car since 2010 and it had 50,000 miles when I got it. I had the Transmission Services at 100,000 miles, but around 107,000 miles while driving down the highway the vehicle seemed to lose power, all the lights started flashing on the dash, speedometer went to zero, odometer turned to lines, etc. To make a long story short took the car to the Ford dealership and the TSS and OSS sensors were replaced and the car drove great again for awhile. I will point this out before the dealer checked my car and I told him what was going on he said 'well with that amount mileage it may just be time for a new transmission.' Not sure if it's just me but replacing transmissions at a little over 100,000 miles is not normal. I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix Supercharged with 205,000 miles on it and the transmission had to be replaced at 201,000 miles. Anyways, about a month after having the the sensors replaced in the Edge I noticed the car was slower to take off from a stop at lights, it also began to jerk and lose power going uphill. So in October I had the spark plugs changed and the jerking and power loss uphills went away, problem solved. Now my issue is the still remaining slow take offs from stop at lights and occasional clunking when going at speeds of about 10 mph. I have noticed with the slow take off issue my RPM's would go up a little higher as if my shift points are off but never over 3500 rpm. It's possible the car is taking off in a higher gear, I'm not sure because I'm not very vehicle mechanics savvy. I plan on taking it to the dealership to get checked out but I'm afraid it'll end up automatically being a worst case scenerio type of situation with those guys. I'm just wondering if anyone can spare a little knowledge or insight from experience with this type of vehicle, so that I know what to say to the service advisor. Also, I am wondering if having the PCM reflashed since it's never been done (atleast since I've owned it) would be worth it or possible considering the vehicle mileage. A little more information about my vehicle: It now has 115,000 miles, the current issue has been the same from the start. I just noticed one day take off was slower and rpm's/shift response a little different, it hasn't gotten any worse nor has it changed in anyway. It's as if this is a normal behavior for the car, but I know it is not. Also, the service engine nor any other warning lights have come on, not even when the spark plugs were causing the jerking problems. My vehicle had a 100,000 mile warranty so as you can imagine I'm pretty sad that all this is happening now.
  24. 2007 ford egde having a transmission issue. Every once in a while it would have a slightly hard shift, ususally when accelerating fast to merge into traffic. But earlier this week it completely stopped working after stopping at a stop sign. Aftrer turning off the car for a few seconds I turned it back on and it engaged very rough. After that it wouldn't shift out of first gear. The engine RPMs were high and my speed was low. It felt as if it was slipping. If I kept my momentum up I could drive about 20-30, but if I had to stop I would have to turn the car off and wait a bit until I could continue on. The really odd thing was after sitting and waiting at a light about 2 blocks away from Aamco shop for a minute or so I turned the car back on and for those last two blocks the car acted normal. I was able to accelerate up to 50 and the car shifted normal. I pulled it into Aamco and later that day got a call that they couldn't get the car to move at all. They didn't find any codes, my fluid was at the proper level but smelled and looked burned (says the shop). They said they should do a rebuild. My question is what would cause these semi-intermittent issues where it would drive normal after sitting off for a while. I have the transmission apart down to the OSS and TSS sensors. (There were several small metal shavings attached to the TSS sensor when i pulled it out.) How far should I tear it down. What else should I be looking for? I would rather find the cause and fix it myself or at least verify it needs a rebuild before spending 3Gs on it. Thanks in advance
  25. I don't know where to start. This 2013 Ford Edge AWD vehicle is only driven 5 miles or less a day commuting to and from the train station. A few months back, i began experiencing the reported natural gas smell, which through my research has led me to believe there's certainly an issue with the PTU. On top of this, beginning two weeks ago (and whether or not related to PTU i dont know) for the first 5 mins of driving after starting cold, the car clunked as if there was a metal or plastic item being dragged under the front of the car car which was accompanied by a heaviness in the steering wheel, as if something big and heavy was trapped in the front wheel wells. Felt like an anvil moving with the wheel rotation is the best way i can describe it. Unfortunately, both the sound and wheel 'feeling' completely disappears by the time id get to the service station to diagnose. Fast forward to the beginning of last week, the clunking had largely subsided on cold start, however I could recreate a different grinding/squeaking/metal on metal sound by turning wheel all the way to the right and beginning to reverse. Sound came from front wheel wells only while moving. Mechanic told me it was likely the transaxle. Told me it was safe to drive while waiting for service date - continued using car to commute. As of this past weekend, if i put the car in reverse and drive faster than 1-2 mph or turn the wheel while reversing, ithe car makes what sounds like a large bang under the car (followed by a whirring, and the transmission appears to slip out momentarily and the smell of burning oil or transmission fluid fills the cabin (cant tell which). Pressing the gas at this stage only moved the car slightly (under strain), though you can hear the engine working. To me, this seems to be a transmission problem, but i dont know enough about the PTU to properly diagnose. Is it possible a transaxle issue led to this transmission problem so quickly, or is the transmission the cause of the front axle sounds? I dont know enough about cars to know.. only that none of these issue should be occurring on a brand new car with under 10k miles. I have a scheduled repair with my local ford dealer on Dec 9th (first day a courtesy car was available), and want to properly explain the issue so its fully fixed. As it stands, i wont let me wife drive the car for safety reasons, and parking in NYC without having use of reverse gear is like eating without food. I could really use your advise. Thanks much in advance!