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:Door Ajar" warning on at all times

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If they don't cover under warranty, there are a couple of HOW TOs to help you DIY for the cost of the part. Good luck!

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Guess what? My problem is back. But it's the otherside now. Lol. I got lucky with the DS door.. that is solid now. So. .. I did the same procedure yesterday. And yes... spaying it does have a effect. The light had been on for 4 days straight. . And nothing worked. Slamming it hard dud nothing. But once I got the wd sprayed in.. viola... it went off and on. So I finished it with the electrical cleaner and it improved 70%.I only had half a can of the electrical cleaner so I didn't hose it down like I wanted to. So this weekend ill hose the death out of it.

Edited by 2011edgese

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Guess what? My problem is back. But it's the otherwise now. Lol. I got lucky with the DS door.. that is solid now. So. .. I did the same procedure yesterday. And yes... spaying it does have a effect. The light had been on for 4 days straight. . And nothing worked. Slamming it hard dud nothing. But once I got the wd sprayed in.. viola... it went off and on. So I finished it with the electrical cleaner and it improved 70%.I only had half a can of the electrical cleaner so I didn't hose it down like I wanted to. So this weekend ill hose the death out of it.

 

Yep, me too. Got the driver's side fixed last year under warranty. Now the passenger's side front is doing it, and the warranty's expired. Figures...

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Yep, me too. Got the driver's side fixed last year under warranty. Now the passenger's side front is doing it, and the warranty's expired. Figures...

give my method a shot. It's only 12$ in 2 cans. Mines prior to spraying was stuck 100% on the ajar light. Now its about 3 out of the 10 door close will not triggervthe ajar off. So spaying DOES do something.

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give my method a shot. It's only 12$ in 2 cans. Mines prior to spraying was stuck 100% on the ajar light. Now its about 3 out of the 10 door close will not triggervthe ajar off. So spaying DOES do something.

 

I've already done that, and it helps. It isn't occurring as frequently as before spraying it now.

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Tried the physical- key-in-the-lock method yet? Apparently working the lock this way a few times works too.

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I cant try the keyhole. Passanger side has no key hole.lol.

 

but I wasnt aware of this trick. Too bad because when I hosed down the Driver side I also did jam the spray straw inside the keyhole amd sprayed wd40 and electrical cleaner and topped it off with a squirt of wd40 since it does need a little lube. I wonder how much success that actuay did besides hosing down the latch.

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I must have the only Edge with the ADKH (all door key hole) feature :) Doh. Wonder if simply working the handle a few times could be a mechanical substitute?

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OK, I now have the dreaded latch problem on my new (to me) 2012 Edge SEL. It only has 7600 miles but has a salvage title so I do not have the warranty. I will try the electrical parts cleaner when I get home today. I was reading your post...

 

give my method a shot. It's only 12$ in 2 cans. Mines prior to spraying was stuck 100% on the ajar light. Now its about 3 out of the 10 door close will not triggervthe ajar off. So spaying DOES do something.

 

Initially you said not to use the WD-40, just use electrical parts cleaner. Now you say to use the WD first. This makes me nervous so i'm leaning toward just using the electrical parts cleaner...

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If you have a physical key entry on the door, work it with the key (lock/unlock a few times) first.

 

Use the electrical parts cleaner, and away from WD-40.

 

If the issue returns, replace the part. There are a couple of how-tos on doing this. Good luck!

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OK, I now have the dreaded latch problem on my new (to me) 2012 Edge SEL. It only has 7600 miles but has a salvage title so I do not have the warranty. I will try the electrical parts cleaner when I get home today. I was reading your post...

 

 

 

Initially you said not to use the WD-40, just use electrical parts cleaner. Now you say to use the WD first. This makes me nervous so i'm leaning toward just using the electrical parts cleaner...

ya... stay away from wd40. If it hits the part of the sensor that if faulty, it makes the issue worse. Use strictly electrical cleaner.

 

My ps door handle Newham doing this problem about 1 1/2 month ago. Sprayed a whole can inside every angle that I could and is alot better. Sometimes I have to open the door and close it 2 or 3 times and the sensor reads it right. Better than sick always open thou. I got extremely lucky with the DS. That got fixed 100% with electrical cleaner.

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okay I have an update. So after almost a full year of the electronic spray actually working for me a hundred percent, 2 days ago the light came back and now it's fully lit and no matter how many times I open and close the door the light is on. So about 30 minutes ago I ended up going to the auto store and bought a whole can of electrical cleaner from the C and R. And this time I did a new test, since another member said that if you put in the key on the key lock and open close open close the key lock that somehow fixes the problem, I just decided to put the little red straw inside the keyhole and give it a one second burst. And guess what? The light is gone. So it looks like you don't have to spray the latch like I did initially a year ago, but spray inside the locking mechanism in the keyhole. So anyone with the same problem give that a shot, the light is completely gone and its been over an hour now.

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Here's the product that works. and let me correct myself, I don't think it was one second, it was more like half a second that I gave it. so I highly suggest everyone to buy this product, its was only $8.50. It's worth the try since dealers are charging up about 300 to 500 dollars to have this replaced. You can't beat A simple $9 fix.for those who have not read the whole thread, here's a brief on my experience. I sprayed the door latch inside the door on the side and sprayed inside the keyhole. I sprayed the whole can last time and top it off with a little spray of wd-40 just to add lubrication. And that gave me a whole year of no problem. And beware, if you spray only wd40 or any type of lubrication on the latch or the keyhole that's a large amount, it's guaranteed to keep the light on. For some reason wd40 on the circuit makes it fail, it's block the connection that makes it ground itself off. Trust me I spray the whole can of wd-40 on it to see if that would fix my issue and its only made it worse. Good luck everyone, I still love this car tremendously. And I do get compliments on how nice the car look.

post-26104-0-10293700-1416971651_thumb.jpg

Edited by 2011edgese
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Thanks for the tip. Too bad it won't help on the passenger side, since there's no keyhole in the handle. Had the driver's side fixed under warranty, & now te passenger side is starting to act up with 62k miles-which means out of warranty& big bucks for a repair.

Edited by sixponies

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Thanks for the tip. Too bad it won't help on the passenger side, since there's no keyhole in the handle. Had the driver's side fixed under warranty, & now te passenger side is starting to act up with 62k miles-which means out of warranty& big bucks for a repair.

Yup.... nothing you can do on the passenger side. I ended up staying a whole can of electrical cleaner on the latch. I bent the straw every which way to get the liquid inside and much as possible, it does reach it and did help me.it was stuck on fully and the cleaner actually made it better. I sometime have to open and close the door 2 times and it works. Been like this for 2 months now.

Edited by 2011edgese

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From Wikipedia:

 

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. MSDS

 

WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

  • 50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". The manufacturer's website specifically claims that this fraction in the current formulation cannot be accurately referred to as Stoddard solvent, a similar mixture of hydrocarbons.[8]
  • <25% petroleum base oil, presumably a mineral oil or light lubricating oil.
  • 12-18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon, to reduce the viscosity for use in aerosols. This fraction evaporates during application.
  • 2-3% carbon dioxide, presumably as a propellant, is now used instead of liquefied petroleum gas to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability.
  • <10% inert ingredients.

We definitely don't want anything remaining on the surface!

 

CRC Lectra-motive MSDS

 

Composition/information on ingredients
Mixtures

Chemical name Common name and synonyms CAS number %
Tetrachloroethylene Perchloroethylene 127-18-4 90 - 100
Carbon dioxide 124-38-9 1 - 5
Specific chemical identity and/or percentage of composition has been withheld as a trade secret.

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Lol. Spraying the keyhole only helped for 3 days.came back. Did my oldprocedure of spraying keyhole and latch with a lot of the cleaner. It's been gone for two days total again

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I was at my Ford dealer yesterday for the exact same thing. The lead man came out to the car and said they replace these door ajar mechenisms in the door once or twice a month on different cars. He quoted me $300.00. He said there is a lot of work just getting to the part. Sounds like a common problem. I tried the WD40 several times without success. Maybe you will fair better.

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Get in line. Sooner or later well you know the rest. I was lucky to have the extended warranty cost $100 deductible. Happened with 37K miles. Good luck but get it fixed properly or you may be stranded somewhere.

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I did not use the 2011 Edge for a couple for two days. Stayed in garage. It had the door adjar problem for a while. Today the battery was drained...

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I have the driver's side- passenger door, "door ajar" acting up on my 2013 Edge. I pulled the top torx inside fastener as was suggested some posts ago. And sprayed with contact cleaner, through the threaded hole. Low and behold what did I hear? A micro switch. The same micro switch actuator sound that I heard when I took the stem and probed the actual white plunger in an up and down motion. So after spraying again I took the long red stem off the spray can, put it through the threaded hole aimed at about one o'clock and was able to run the switch 20 or so cycles listening to the clicks. As a E tech I wish I had some technical insight that would fix this problem for sure but I've been too busy with other issues. I hope this helps in some small way. Thanks to the guys who took the photos and the guy who suggested pulling that torx bolt out! Wife's car is good to go.

 

p/s I was only able to hear the micro switch in a closed quiet garage. And locating the switch with the spray stem through the hole takes persistence. Also stick with plastic safe contact cleaner.

Edited by valkyriemc

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