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AmyLovesHerEdge

Shift to Park Warning when it's in Park

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Bring your checkbook as its not covered by warranty or any recall !

Even my Ford Extended warranty didnt cover mine !!

Yep - It was a relatively easy repair, and they were aware and had the parts, but alas, no Warranty or After Warranty Adjustment - even after 12+ years working with this particular dealership. Was able to negotiate down some on the costs, but it was still a significant expense - $400 for something that was well known to fail.

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Does anyone have the service procedure for the shifter replacement? I am dealing with this issue right now and will just replace the shifter myself. I would like some steps for R&R the shifter so I don't end up breaking any interior plastics...

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I ordered my shifter last week from quirkparts - nice and easy... (as opposed to $ 500 + labor charge via the dealership in Bahrain).

 

shifter2.jpg

 

shifter3.jpg

 

My 2013 Sport model uses CT4Z-7210-FB shifter - the one without gear change +/- buttons ($ 122 shipped).

 

The weather (over 100F) does not allow me to replace it just yet - waiting for some cooler days to come (october, perhaps)...

 

shifter1.jpg

 

One more thought... if that crappy part is connected with 4 bolts and there is no trace of any heavy electronics on it, what are the chances that one of these cables needs to be grounded in order for the "P" thing to light up? Poor man's fix should be available without replacing the whole thing I guess...

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arabski, yes. A little single pole switch would probably work. I just ordered mine from White Bear Lake Ford online for 116.xx shipped. I will be installing this week once received and plan on doing a step by step diy on it with pics.

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these two videos show how to remove the trim... looks like a 15 minutes job. Tomorrow I'll try to replace my assembly!

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so... I fixed my shifter. I'll make a longer writeup with pictures, but for now all I can say is that I am dissapointed with the reason for all that hard work...

Have a look:

fs1.jpg

fs2.jpg

Is there a reason why would Ford not sell this tiny little crappy switch with the attached cabling alone as a replacement part? Think of all the man hour of pointless work put into replacing the whole damn shifter. And resources wasted to make it... when all you really need to replace is that TOTALLY REPLACEABLE switch . And I don't think Ford is earning money on that part, but rather I am thinking it is a blame of some idiot working in a garage who came across this problem for the first time and made a call to replace a shifter. And everybody followed...

By the way, if I knew that replacing of the whole assembly will take me so long, I would've just replaced this tiny element as it is totally possible without removing the assembly (just remove the cup holders and get the element replaced). You have to make a call yourselves when doing this. One benefit of getting the new shifter is that you will have a brand new shifter. Mine looked like new, so I really did a lot of unnecessary work...

:cry:

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https://www.adafruit.com/product/820

 

Why they don't sell the swithch is beyond me. It took me about 1.5 hours to replace shifter and cost $116 for a $3 part.

Don't know if the above will fit, but just a quick search to prove it could be a quicker easier fix than need be. I know if it happens again I will not be buying a shifter assembly.

Edited by hofiveo

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I guess one good reason to replace the whole assembly is that feel of a brand new gear lever. Although mine after 3 years and 60k+ miles still looks almost as good as new...

 

BTW. there is a tiny logo on the microswitch saying OMRON

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...ok, so I pulled out my micrometer and verified sizes of the switch:

 

13.3 mm x 5.25mm x 6.4mm

 

and started digging...

 

here you go:

 

d2hw.gif

 

comes even with posts (on the left) and the hinge lever!

 

d2hw_syurui09.gif

 

https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/14/d2hw.html

 

one just need to figure out how to order it...

Edited by arabski
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If you Select Your Area and Check Dist. Inventory in the search box in the left column of the resulting page, it will show you distributors in the area that carry that product.

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I purchased a 2013 Edge SEL last year and have been dealing with the "Shift to Park" and "Door Ajar" issues both. It's been very frustrating and embarrassing at times, especially when dealing with a dead battery because of it. I also live in Northern Canada where it is very cold so my battery is forced to work even harder most days. I recently found a couple posts online regarding this issue that points to an issue with the wiring harness possibly in the driver side door. My "Door Ajar" warning is a daily thing but there are times when its not as bad and some days I have to close my door multiple times before it corrects but it always corrects itself. If I drive away with the "door ajar" light on, the "Shift to Park" warning comes on. I'm going to open my door panel and check the wire and hopefully it is a loose connection or faulty harness and maybe I can finally resolve this issue. I have tried cleaning the door switch and it has not helped at all, not even temporarily.

 

Info I found online....

**The contact owns a 2013 Ford Edge. After starting the vehicle, the door ajar and shift into park warning indicators illuminated and the door chime indicator sounded after all of the doors were closed. The interior lights remained illuminated the entire time. The failure recurred on several occasions. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who diagnosed that the wiring harness and switch in the driver's door assembly needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 44,000. Updated 5/19/cn updated 7/1/2015.**

 

Hopefully it works itself out and maybe just maybe this will help someone else out, hence the post, especially those that have the problem reocurring after a possible fix is done by the dealer. Other than this issue I love my Edge <3

Edited by reddyroc

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It won't "work itself out". The real fix is to replace the door latch and the shifter assembly, but you see above you can probably just replace the switch and if you search the forum you'll find some workarounds for the door latch.

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When I say "work itself out" I meant that I will be personally checking my wiring harness in the door. I'm inclined to think its an electrical issue in terms of wiring because of how sporadic the issues are. The "Shift to Park" never happns on its own, only when the car is in drive and the "door ajar" warning is on. At times if another door is unlocked then the driver side "door ajar" warning pops up also. It's very sporadic and I had a day last week where it didnt happen at all the entire day but was back the follwoing day. I'm pretty sure its not my door latch or shifter assembly switch. Besides I don't want to replace parts and have the problem remain or come back after time. Although for all I know, I could fix the problem with the wiring harness and suddenly the door latch does fail but the symptoms should be somewhat different.

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It's not the harness - it's the sensor inside the door latch. You can bypass it in the wiring harness if you're adventurous but that also means it won't warn you when it actually is ajar and shouldn't be.

 

Next time you get the shift to park error try jiggling the shifter. If it goes away it's the switch.

 

I don't think those two really share anything electrically but I suppose there is a slight chance they're related. Both are common failures though.

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...ok, so I pulled out my micrometer and verified sizes of the switch:

 

13.3 mm x 5.25mm x 6.4mm

 

and started digging...

 

here you go:

 

d2hw.gif

 

comes even with posts (on the left) and the hinge lever!

 

d2hw_syurui09.gif

 

https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/14/d2hw.html

 

one just need to figure out how to order it...

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Thanks for your posts as I'm having the same issue with my 2013 Edge. I'll call dealership in the morning. Probably should start a new thread but randomly the radio won't work and the power button won't respond. All kinds of fun. Weird though, shut the car off (wiggle the shifter) and when I restart the radio is on. Need to mention this tomorrow as well but am curious about the sync update.

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I have 2011 sport having the same issue. I only have 40k miles, my warranty ends this month Im going to call the dealership I purchased it from to see if they can help me out covering the cost. Ive already purchased 2 vehicles from them and Im very loyal to them when it comes to maintenance and repairs. At the same time I will order the switch for $3 just in case. I think the part # mentioned earlier is incorrect, you want to get the switch with post on the left and Im guessing its the long hinged lever so that would be part # d2hw-bl221h. Please correct me if im wrong.

Edited by drjoe
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My mother-in-law was complaining that her car would not go into park and turn off the dash lights and warning bell even though it was shifted into park. I had to rescue her from the car wash when her battery was drained before she called me. She is handicapped and for her this is a safety issue that is apparently quite common with the shifter mechanism on a lot of Ford vehicles. She also wanted me to test drive her car because the brakes were acting 'funny'. I found out that her brake booster system had partially failed but was covered under an extended service warranty #13N02 but the dealership will not replace her shifter because her regular warranty is expired. Her car is only 3 years old, in immaculate condition, and I talked her into buying this model! I was getting the "Shift to Park" error message even though the tranny was definitely in park. The Service Advisor told me this a known problem and the shifter must be replaced entirely and would be several hundred dollars. She is not able to get her car into park all the time and should not have to pay for a very common issue of this magnitude on her fixed income after buying a new car that should last far longer than the 3 years she has owned and faithfully maintained it at her Ford dealership.

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Sorry to hear, Randy. If you are not far out of warranty, talk to Ford directly at their 1800 number, or on Twitter @fordservice I think. They may make a goodwill adjustment for you. Then get a Ford Premiumcare plan to cover future incidents. I assure you, the peace of mind will be well worth it. Buy the plan online for the best rates.

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This thread seems to have died a few months back, but did changing the switch work fine? Is there anywhere online we can buy shifter assemblies or just through the dealer?

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I registered to this site specifically to post on this semi-common issue to help any like myself who research how to fix issues themselves. I can attest this issue can easily be fixed with just replacing a $5 microswitch and less than 1 hour of easy time. Thanks to the previous poster that posted the microswitch info, but I saw a few posts with the wrong parts being shown to fix this issue. You need a SPDT three lead switch with the posts on the left side. The CORRECT Omron switch part number is D2HW - BL201M - this version has three leads already in place for easy spicing. I got mine from Mouser Electronics for $5.02. If you want the version with the solder posts, the part number is D2HW - BL201H but you will probably need to remove a lot more stuff to get this resoldered. I went ahead and bought a few spares as well as I expect this to fail again at some point... Don't worry about getting one with a lever, as you will pull the lever off the old switch and put it on the new one.

 

The great part is you won't have to remove the shifter if you get the switch with the leads already attached. Start by setting the parking brake, then start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate), then turn the car back off. Remove the center console with the cup holders. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up. Then, remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit. Now, separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch, then re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring. After your sure everything is fine, put the console back together in reverse order you took it out. Then smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work!

 

I hope I helped someone from either paying the crazy dealership price or buy a completely new shifter and spend much more time and effort taking things apart to do this.

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Excellent! Can you create a new topic with this info so I can put it in the appropriate forum and pin it?

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