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Radiator fan assembly replacement procedure


autom8r

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Turbo_

 

There are indeed two different modules.

 

My DORMAN has been operating without issue for the last 50k miles. It must be the dry heat in SoCal vs. Florida!

 

I've attached wiring diagrams just so you have a reference for your use.

 

Let me know if you need any other excerpts.

 

Good luck. Sorry the response is so late.

Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

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Thanks for all of the great posts and replies, they've been really helpful in my quest to replace my failed fan in a 2011 Edge. All of the instructions made great sense, but the module connector is stuck and i'm having a lot of trouble getting it to release.

 

I've tried depressing the tab and it still won't release. Any advice or other things to try?

 

Thanks!

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Update...

I ordered a FoMoCo unit from amazon I believe for a pinch more than the other brands.

this time I removed the upper rad hose and while I was at it changed the fluid (probably original).

removing the upper hose just makes it that much easier and less chance of breaking something plastic. after market units are slightly thicker also.

 

 

I have the same diagrams. diagrams are kinda vague as to actual harness difference. how easy would it be to convert over.

The OEM unit works so much better.

 

Fans are still good on aftermarket system.. they will get rewired into a hot rod more than likely. :-)

 

as far as the connectors.. Push them together, wiggle and push down on the release. sometimes a screwdriver gently at other end can help.

 

Now that I think about it.. The aftermarketconnector that connects to OEM was not sealed on mine leaving it exposed to elements. :-(

Edited by TurboFlush
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Just want to say thanks for this thread, I think it will help me a ton. I wanted to ask a couple of questions about my specific case, as I'll be taking a closer look soon:

 

2011 Edge SE (no tow package). ~96k miles

 

background:

Wife complained about a week or two ago that the A/C hasn't seemed as cold as it used to be. Since we were about to go on a short vacation in the south GA heat, I figured I'd add some R134a to the system... Well, the cheap refrigerant hose I had didn't have a gauge so I just went for it. Long story short, I overcharged it, which I guess caused a pressure switch to immediately disengage the compressor right after it came on... so now it was short cycling (engaged for like a second then disengaged) and I was getting only warm air, no cold at all. Went and bought a better refrigerant hose that has a gauge on it (not a full high/low side manifold though) and realized it was overcharged. Let a bit out until it was "in range" and then it started working correctly. Still not 100% sure that it was quite as cold as it used to be, but getting cold air nonetheless.

 

Went on vacation and didn't have any trouble, A/C worked just fine - highway driving, no traffic to speak of. Until we got about half way home we hit some standstill traffic in mid-day summer heat - now the air started blowing warm. After we got out of traffic and started moving, the air got cold again.

 

I didn't notice any overheating or anything. She hasn't complained about the A/C not working right since we've been home but with school still out her work commute doesn't have much stop-and-go traffic (that will change in the next few days once school starts).

 

I wonder if maybe one of the fans is working properly (keeping the engine from overheating) but the other (or the control module) isn't? We've had this vehicle for a few years and I really haven't had to do much work on it other than regular oil changes and such (thank god, knock on wood). So I haven't gotten terribly familiar with the engine layout, position of components, etc (like I have with my older Focus). I'm no master mechanic but I've got some skills and always prefer to DIY if it's not a major internal engine/transmission issue that requires special tools and knowledge/expertise. I have an infrared laser temp sensor and an Elm bluetooth OBD scanner with Torque app so I can look at temp values, etc. So I think if someone can answer the following questions it will really help my initial diagnosis:

 

Can you first verify the proper operation of the fans: driver side fan should come on intermittently depending on engine temp (anyone know what temp it is supposed to kick on and off at?) passenger side fan should come on whenever A/C is on (is it only with Max A/C or at high setting or something or just anytime the A/C is on?). Does that sound right?

 

Can I easily physically see the two fans to confirm correct operation or do I need to remove shrouds/etc just to observe? Or should I be able to easily hear the difference between 0 fans, 1 fan, and 2 fans running?

 

I noticed that her coolant reservoir was a little low (not empty though) - actually forgot to top that off but will do that ASAP. Have not noticed any smoke or leaks or overheating though - is that indicative of anything related? I can just use the old 50/50 mix of green coolant/water to top off in this vehicle, right?

 

I'm thinking I first look at OBD temp reading and lower radiator hose measured temp to see if it's "normal" (what is "normal" during regular, warmed up, idling engine? check with A/C on or off or does it matter?). If temp readings are wacky, it's probably the temp sensor (although I suspect this isn't the case due to no overheating). Next look at fan operation. If passenger fan (or driver fan) doesn't work or is intermittent, replace fan assembly. Could it really just be something as simple as dirt/debris on the condenser or the cabin air filter?

 

Am I on the right track? Many thanks in advance for any additional insight/advice!

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If both fans failed you would notice it pretty quickly. Your AC fan has stopped working. I can confirm that the fans do not run at high speeds over 50-60 miles per hour as the air flow is sufficient to cool everything. ( I recommend the Forscan app much better program)

 

I have tried to see the fans running but it is difficult to get in there to check. Audible sound is about the best you get. Taking the fan out and hooking it up to 12 volt source would be your best way to test the fan.

 

Fan shroud and fans are one assembly.

 

Pretty classic failure so you most likely are not parts swapping if you replace the fan with an OEM fan.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally Fixed I just went outside all frustrated as I was thinking I got a bad fan or just bad deal on my Forde Edge. I pulled my Edge out of the Garage shut it off and then as I read above the not OEM part you gotto shove the connector into the fan assembly even if it doesn't snap so I shove it in there as hard as I could since it felt like it already couldnt connect anymore. Anyways I shoved it in which I doubt wasnt but a millimeter I would say and funny thing when I turned on the truck I was frustrated and shut it off and to my surprise I heard the fans on and I was like whaaaaaaa..... I couldnt hear the fans with the motor on. After shoving the plug in as hard as I could I could not believe it... the SOB worked... the Dorman fan model is 621-392. Fans blowing hard as heck right now. I will tell you these if you want to just avoid the hassle like me, slip off the top hose and raise it up. You will no drip much coolant at all and you will avoid about an hours worth trying to wedge the fan in. I thank you for your PDF instructions but the Dorman has a raised heat guard that does not allow it to slip in by about a cm. I went under the Edge and saw what it was being snapped onto. Tried it everyway that I could and just decided to take off the top left Radiator hose and like I said it slipped right it which could have saved me almost an hours worth of sweat and hassle. I followed everything except for that. Thank you good people for your posts and will keep you updated on the new fan if any problems.

In adding to windrushno1's post (and hoping it helps others from stressing) I also went ahead and bought the Dorman 621-392 BEFORE I read the issues others experienced with this same fan product. . . tin short, my fans went south and I was experiencing similar issues as others, especially with the AC not working. Noticed overheating at low speed or during idling. One fan would spin if I nudged it with a stick (Obviously I was parked when I was doing this) Bought the Dorman and installed it. . .started up the 09 Edge and NOTHING! Checked all the connections and realized the main connector wasn't going in fully. I pulled it out and pushed it in several times and it appeared to me that something was not allowing it to seat properly. On the last pull I heard a "snap" and noticed the white internal "cap" had snapped off of the harness and was now lodged in the module end of the connector. Assuming that this may have something to do with the contacts not connecting, I pulled out the white cap (threw it away), plugged the harness back into the module and holy smokes. . .the fans ran like a champ when I started the car! When I plugged into the module, I noticed that the plug went in further than previously, making solid contact with the leads. So it may be useful for some owners to pull the internal white cap from the harness plug (female end) and plug it in for a better contact seat. I think windrushno1's method of "shoving" the plug in resulted in the same answer. . .the leads need to make contact and the 621-392 should run just fine.

Overall, thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences with this issue. It really helped me isolate the problem and find a fix. I was considering buying another fan model until I did a bit of reading and, well. . .now I'll see how long the Dorman will last!

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  • 1 year later...

Th

 

Last weekend I replaced my faulty fan assembly. The fan speed control module failed, leaving one of the fans operating at high speed all the time [an annoying tattletale, BTW]. A new module costs as much or more as the entire fan assembly, so I opted to replace the whole thing.

 

The service manual instructs you to disconnect the upper radiator hose. That would've qualified this job as a messy PITA. A message to thirdgenlxi was quickly returned with a set of abbreviated instructions, which made the job much cleaner and easier.

 

And so attached for your use is the 'simplified' fan assembly replacement procedure. The entire job took about 0:30 minutes. Scale of difficulty, 1 to 2, about the same as rotating your tires.

 

A hearty thanks to thirdgenlxi for his advice.

 

Thanks man (autom8r), I was in time crunch bind and this replacement pdf really helped ;)

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