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What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?


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Did you go with the OEM cabin filter, candurin, or ...?

OEM. I've tried a bunch of the aftermarkets and all seem to perform identically.

 

As I pre-paid all my oil changes and scheduled maintenance, everything is OEM from the dealership.

 

Before the question is asked, I have a set corporate reimbursement for my vehicle and I was able to get the ESP and scheduled maintenance plan covered under that agreement. Or else, I would not endorse the pre-paid plans (you can always get a better deal when each individual maintenance is due).

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What are your goals for this upgrade, Spree? Is this for a daily driver and/or for looks? The setup works well for the street, would not take it to the track or to AutoX. If you want the best street performance, you will likely want high carbon rotors (Autozone or StopTech for example), combined with EBC Yellowstuff pads as one option. For track or AutoX, you want plainJane rotors (no slotting, no drilling) and pads meant for the track/AutoX, such as certain Porterfield or Carbotech offerings.

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Right now I'm getting a loud squeak coming from the front, only for about 1/4 mile then it stops. I figured brakes since it just turned 67,000 miles. Had it at the Ford dealer for an oil change and tire rotation. I ask them to check the brakes pads. I thought for sure they would say I needed them even If I didn't. They said pads looked good and everything was well. It only happens when I first drive it that day or when it sits for a period of time and cools down. Of course the Dealer wants to keep it over night and look into it farther. This is my DD, no racing involved. I owned a Mark VIII for years and the drilled/slotted was the way to go. I'm not sure about this MKX thats why I'm asking all your advice. I want to know what you all know!

I do all my own work but since it's winter I thought I would take it in for the oil change.

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The Power Stop kit should be fine for that purpose. I also launch the Edge mildly aggressively from a stop, seems to minimize issues with the normal surface rust that builds up after the vehicle has sat awhile.

Tell me, are the caliper pistons the screw in type or the push in?

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Monster's awakening! Looking forward to feedback from the datalogs.

It's pretty dialed in for the first jetting setup. I'm seeing 11.8 on the wideband which is nice and safe. 0-60 went from 8 to 6 which is absolutely impressive. If I can get into a 5 sec 0-60 I will be extremely happy. I'm scrptical about 100 shot though. I don't know that the motor is my concern so much as the 4-5 shift at 6000 rpm. Around 75 mph. I think that is where something could break. Just taking slow. I can send you a log file if you like. Just open with live link .there are a couple pids not giving data now that we're before and I can't figure out why.. Knock retard index for some reason won't work.

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One of the things done on the Ecoboost motors to improve the shift is to lower shift pressures a bit (still higher than stock), so that may be an option for this NA motor also, worth asking about. Which PIDs are you not getting data for anymore? Are you hooked up wirelessly or via USB cable? Yeah, shoot me the log file, def like to walk through it. Did KRI ever work? I know with Forscan I get the Knock Sensor voltages for each bank, have to check if there is a Knock Retard setting available. Maybe even break out the X3 :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Basic maintenance for the power steering system: drain old fluid, fill new fluid. Did 2 times, getting about 14 oz out each time, with a pump they use for gallon bottles. Drove in between the D&F to help fluid circulate. Castrol Transmax Mercon V, since it's currently on sale at Advance Auto for $4/quart (I think all varieties of Castrol ATF, maybe even the CVT fluid, are on sale there).

 

Old fluid was med to dark brown, both in the glass container I drained into, and in the blot on a paper towel. A check before the second round, the fluid still looked brownish in the container, but pinkish red on the blot. Progress! So left it alone after the second D&F, will check after a few months, I think. Maybe get a BG flush if the fluid becomes brownish again.

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Basic maintenance for the power steering system: drain old fluid, fill new fluid. Did 2 times, getting about 14 oz out each time, with a pump they use for gallon bottles. Drove in between the D&F to help fluid circulate. Castrol Transmax Mercon V, since it's currently on sale at Advance Auto for $4/quart (I think all varieties of Castrol ATF, maybe even the CVT fluid, are on sale there).

 

Old fluid was med to dark brown, both in the glass container I drained into, and in the blot on a paper towel. A check before the second round, the fluid still looked brownish in the container, but pinkish red on the blot. Progress! So left it alone after the second D&F, will check after a few months, I think. Maybe get a BG flush if the fluid becomes brownish again.

 

LOL. I'm flushing the power steering fluid today.

 

The easiest way to flush is to pull off the return line from the reservoir and plug/cap the opening on the reservoir. Then, use another hose to extend the return line to a container. Then fill the reservoir, start up the engine and move the steering wheel a little each way. This will draw in new fluid and the return line will dump the old fluid into the container. It's easier if you do this with a 2nd person who has a clue. All they have to do is keep the tank full. Once the fluid coming out of the return line looks new, turn the wheel enough to draw down the the reservoir level to somewhere below max. Then, hook up the return line to the reservoir and make sure the level is above the minimum.

 

If you don't have a helper that is helpful, turn the wheel left/right and shut off the engine. Add fluid to the reservoir, start it up and repeat. Do this until the fluid coming out is clean.

 

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