What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?

[Cerberus]

3 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-axle-asy-rear_s-158-a.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2016&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(21805;1886)

this is the rdu pretty pricey at just over 1,000 USD.

 

sometimes for some mys you can get the viscous coupler separately if that is all you need, but i assume you feel the gearing portion is faulty not the clutch.

The noise I'm chasing is almost certain a wheel bearing, but the nearly empty rear diff has me questioning that now, so I'm do preemptive research. I found a bunch of RDUs on ebay, new and used, but there are more versions of it than what the edge has and I'm wondering about cross compatibility and power handling capabilities.. like one for an explorer sport with the 3.5 ecoboost would have to be able to handle a lot more power.. So if it were bolt up possible and geared the same,  it would be an idea to contemplate.

 

New tires arrive today so I can emilinate that as a possible cause once they are installed.

[TourGuide]

On 4/21/2023 at 1:27 PM, Odrapnew said:

 

Question on this, by hatch body panels, you're talking the plastic on the inside, correct? Any chance you have pictures?

I have noticeable rattles in the back and I believe it's the plastic panel(s) on the hatch. I plan to take the panels off and see if I can fix the rattles.

 

Unfortunately no pictures - sorry.

 

Yes - the plastic panels on the rear hatch are the ones I gave the treatment.  I mostly followed the procedure found in this video.  I did not add the sound mat material but that would have been even better - also I did use some 1 mm single sided foam tape between plastic to plastic and plastic to metal edges.  It was more time, but was worth it I think.  I used this tape.  

 

Surprises here were how loose the OE pins had become in their slots.  The window weld really made a difference and was worth the effort.

Edited April 25, 2023 by TourGuide

[lildisco]

On 4/23/2023 at 3:52 PM, lildisco said:

I already bought some ribbed slit wire wrap & I plan on greasing the axles later this week as I'm sure that hasn't been done in quite some time or at all.

 

 

Greased the trailer axle bearings yesterday. Drivers side was a dark purple color & the passenger side was more of a dark red ish color. Thankfully, they're Dexter E-Z Lube axles & we're quite easy to put new grease in. I'll probably lube them 1 more time this year & then I'll do it annually after that to make sure that old grease is out. Guess we'll see how the summer goes. 

[lildisco]

It's so tiny compared to the other trailer I hauled the same mower with. Rides nice (once loaded) & my air bag helper springs keep the rear from sagging too much. 

[lildisco]

Trailer comparison 

[Cerberus]

New tires; Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 Plus XL (x4) delivered from Tire Rack.

So I ended up going with OEM size (265/40R21) for cost and because the local tire chain (Discount Tire) absolutely refused when I asked if they would mount 295 width tires to a 9 inch wide wheel.. (pricks)

I mounted up my winter wheels so I had my summer wheels loose and brought two of them in to work & swapped them on lunch one day, easy peasy

 

I could not do the other pair (did not have time & freedom to do it) so I took them to Discount Tire to swap off the old and mount the new.

They charged me $93 and change for mounting and balancing on two loose wheels.. dirty bastards. 

One star. Do not recommend. Will never go back. 

 

I LOVE the tires though. Highly recommended.

[Odrapnew]

3 hours ago, Cerberus said:

New tires; Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 Plus XL (x4) delivered from Tire Rack.

So I ended up going with OEM size (265/40R21) for cost and because the local tire chain (Discount Tire) absolutely refused when I asked if they would mount 295 width tires to a 9 inch wide wheel.. (pricks)

I mounted up my winter wheels so I had my summer wheels loose and brought two of them in to work & swapped them on lunch one day, easy peasy

 

I could not do the other pair (did not have time & freedom to do it) so I took them to Discount Tire to swap off the old and mount the new.

They charged me $93 and change for mounting and balancing on two loose wheels.. dirty bastards. 

One star. Do not recommend. Will never go back. 

 

I LOVE the tires though. Highly recommended.

 Those are at the top of my list whenever my OE tires die. Unfortunately (or fortunately) OE tires will likely dry up before tread wears down. I only put about 4k miles on them each year since I have 2 other summer vehicles and I run winter set Dec-March.

[Cerberus]

1 hour ago, Odrapnew said:

 Those are at the top of my list whenever my OE tires die. Unfortunately (or fortunately) OE tires will likely dry up before tread wears down. I only put about 4k miles on them each year since I have 2 other summer vehicles and I run winter set Dec-March.

Yeah, at that usage, it will take forever for them to wear out

[PrinzII]

On 3/30/2023 at 10:10 PM, enigma-2 said:

Which model are you considering?

 

I'm highly satisfied with my Escort MAX 360c. Great distance warning. All bands and shows the actual frequency so you know if cop or something else (like those signs that show you how fast you're travelling.) Also excellent rejection of false signals. Updates database via wireless connection right in car. (Uses home wireless connection via cell phone).

 

Two separate antennas detail which direction the police are coming from, can track several radars at once and using software on my cell phone, can see where the cops are, within 30 miles. (When someone with a simular detector detects radar, the location is uploaded to the cloud and everyone else can see it.)

 

Map also shows where known speed cameras are located and when you enter a known aircraft measuring area. (No radar used for either of these). 

 

Escort also a camera that attaches directly onto the side of this detector. (Only one power cord needed).

 

 

 

I've already got a Valentine One and am considering a Valentine One Gen 2.

[PrinzII]

Latest:

• Changed wipers to Bosch Icons (Much better than the ones I got from Sam's Club)

 

Upcoming:

• Change the rear wiper
• 75k Maintenance
• Change Trans Fluid
• Alignment Check

Still hunting for:

• Vignale Grille

[Perblue]

Bought Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 4 295/35R21 and really like them. Way better than the stock continentals. Had no problems with the tire shop mounting them.

 

Also slowly getting ready for 3l swap.

[Xtra]

52 minutes ago, Perblue said:

Also slowly getting ready for 3l swap.

Nice,  those make great power right out of the box. And what the Sport and ST should have had from the start. 

[Perblue]

2 hours ago, Xtra said:

Nice,  those make great power right out of the box. And what the Sport and ST should have had from the start. 

 

I agree, if things go right I'll have ot done this summer if not it'll be next. I need to find who makes the down pipes and get them ordered.

[Xtra]

1 hour ago, Perblue said:

I need to find who makes the down pipes and get them ordered.

I guess you know check the Ultimate 2.7  Parts thread . You could  be pushing the limit of some drive line parts depending on how much power you make. I would contact snmjim for some information that could save you some time and money with this swap. 

[Perblue]

2 hours ago, Xtra said:

I guess you know check the Ultimate 2.7  Parts thread . You could  be pushing the limit of some drive line parts depending on how much power you make. I would contact snmjim for some information that could save you some time and money with this swap. 

 

Yup read those threads. I could be wrong, but I think someone else took over making them since then, but I'll ask him and the one listed. It'll probably be over kill since I'm limited by 93 octane (other than meth or octane boost, which I'll likely do) but prefer to do it with it all apart, than put it together and wish otherwise. I am wondering how well the rest will hold up, could be weaker or stronger than the sport stuff but only one way to find out. ?

[Xtra]

Snmjim took the platform to the max and knows all the weak points and how much power different parts can take.. He can tell you exactly how much you can make safely.  And what needs to be beefed up and when. He did not post everything he learned.

[Perblue]

12 hours ago, Xtra said:

Snmjim took the platform to the max and knows all the weak points and how much power different parts can take.. He can tell you exactly how much you can make safely.  And what needs to be beefed up and when. He did not post everything he learned.

 

Ok sorry, I knew he did it with the sport but didn't think he had much or any experience with what the newer 8 speed, ptu and rdu could take.

[Cerberus]

Today I hooked up my 6 channel mechanical mic to the rear wheel hubs, left and right, and the RDU in hopes of tracking down the source of the noise that I thought was a wheel bearing.

Plot twist, it does not seem to be any of those parts making the noise.

I can hear the pads hiss on the rotors when I am braking, and I can hear a near constant hiss from the RDU, but nothing that coincides with the wheelspeed correlated pulsating roar, that I thought was a wheel bearing. 

I'm at a loss.

[enigma-2]

RDU bearings will howl when they are worn. Also worn ring & pinion. As you ran low of lub may be worth pulling the cover and have a look. (You probably need seals anyway). Whats the cost of rebuilding differential (you have a AWD right)?

[Cerberus]

8 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

RDU bearings will howl when they are worn. Also worn ring & pinion. As you ran low of lub may be worth pulling the cover and have a look. (You probably need seals anyway). Whats the cost of rebuilding differential (you have a AWD right)?

Yes, AWD. Interestingly,  the right side output seal which had an old leak stain around it when I refilled the RDU last month, is not leaking. I washed it down with a brake clean solvent at that time, and when I was hooking up my mics yesterday I noticed there was no active leak. 

I plan to extract all the fluid I can today for forensic purposes and refill again.

I am reluctant to open the rear cover since the carrier bearing caps are integral to the cover.. but I may end up doing that if the problem is not identified soon

[Cerberus]

11 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

RDU bearings will howl when they are worn. Also worn ring & pinion. As you ran low of lub may be worth pulling the cover and have a look. (You probably need seals anyway). Whats the cost of rebuilding differential (you have a AWD right)?

morning service update, 

First, the RDU rear cover is not only an integral part of the ring gear carrier bearing system, It is also a key part of the mounting of the RDU.. so I'm not messing with that, at least not in the vehicle.

And if i remove it, I will very likely only do so with a new or low mileage used/reman unit on hand. It looks fairly accessible to swap out.

Having just extracted the fluid and refilled the RDU, i can make a couple observations. The magnetic plug was furry again, but not hugely so, less so than prior removal, The fluid was a dark with a fine metallic suspension (arguably no biggie for a 90K driveline) , but no larger pieces, so it will probably be ok for a while. All seals on the unit are still dry. Puzzling but I'll just STFU and be happy for that! 

I did reposition the RDU mic onto the rear cover so maybe now i'll get a better sense of any problem there

Time to drive

[Cerberus]

9 hours ago, Cerberus said:

morning service update, 

 

Afternoon update,  after driving cross town to the local Costco for a fuel up and back (losing one mic wire en route.. got under a tire somehow, heard the wire pop) I finally got a sense of the buzz/hum/roar from the right rear wheel hub.. which is where I thought the problem was from the start. 

So, problem confirmation in place, I did absolutely nothing lol. It was warm today. I'll limp it to next weekend and do it then. If it lasts that long. I'll probably do a photo series of the job. 

Side note, I walked into a local shop to get a quote to run my veh up to speed on the lift, and heard the desk dude quote a poor unsuspecting woman $440 to evac and recharge an AC system. ... and I turned around and walked out. Quickly. 

I almost wanted to tell her to bite the pillow but I'm not trying to light fires that close to home.. but this kind of thing makes me think I should really open my own shop..

 

Edited May 14, 2023 by Cerberus

[enigma-2]

4 hours ago, Cerberus said:

Side note, I walked into a local shop to get a quote to run my veh up to speed on the lift, and heard the desk dude quote a poor unsuspecting woman $440 to evac and recharge an AC system. ... and I turned around and walked out. Quickly. 

Man I don't blame you. That's twice as high the National average. There must have been parts involved. Perhaps a failed receiver/dryer or something. 

[Cerberus]

4 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Man I don't blame you. That's twice as high the National average. There must have been parts involved. Perhaps a failed receiver/dryer or something. 

No. I heard the whole conversation,  this was just to evac and charge (& dye) the system, so they could find the problem and fix it, for an additional cost 

This time of year, I see AC service specials for under 100$ all the time, and yeah, we know that's not going to ne the whole bill because if it needs service at all, chances are there is a leak that should be fixed too, or a failed component. 

But charging 440$ right up front,  that's a big nut with no rationale for it.

[Haz]

From the Edge Workshop Manual...

 

Fluorescent Dye Leak Detection

NOTE: Fluorescent refrigerant system dye is added to the refrigerant system at the factory to assist in refrigerant system leak diagnosis using a Rotunda-approved UV lamp. Do not add dye to the refrigerant system before diagnosing leaks or after repairs, even if a significant amount of refrigerant has been removed from the system. Replacement suction accumulators, receiver driers, receiver drier elements, and service condensers are shipped with a fluorescent dye wafer included in the desiccant bag which dissolves after approximately 30 minutes of continuous A/C operation. Do not add dye after flushing the refrigerant system because a new suction accumulator, receiver drier or receiver drier element is installed as part of the flushing procedure.

NOTE: Ford Motor Company vehicles are produced with R134a or R-1234yf fluorescent dye installed in the refrigerant system from the factory. The location of leaks can be pinpointed by the bright yellow-green glow of the fluorescent dye under a UV lamp. Since more than one leak can exist, inspect each component, line and fitting in the refrigerant system for a leak.

NOTE: Use of dye-enhancing glasses or goggles greatly improves the detection of the dye under the UV lamp.

NOTE: Not all UV lamps will fluoresce the dye used in Ford vehicles. All Rotunda UV lamps are optimized to fluoresce the dye.

NOTE: If the system has been out of refrigerant through the winter the dye at the leak point may have oxidized and may not fluoresce. If this happens, recharge and operate the A/C system to circulate the oil and allow any residual dye to show up at the leak point. It is important to understand that dye adheres to the oil not the refrigerant; the refrigerant carries the oil out of the leak point.

 

Good luck!

 

Edited May 15, 2023 by Haz