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Matt Ives

air intake waste of money on edge

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I purchased the air intake cause I've done it to all my vehicles. It came with a cone filter and all that. Long story short, it made the engine light come on and I had to put the stock one back on.

 

I hate how much room the stock system takes up in the engine bay so are their any mods that can use the stock system but cut down on engine compartment space? Is there any way to use an aftermarket cone filter with part of the stock syste? What about removing that muffler thing?

 

Never had this problem before and it's disheartning.

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I did the K&N cold air intake system or the Edge and I too notice absolutely NO DIFFERENCE in either power gain or fuel economy

What it did notice is that when I really press the accelerator It sounds like a jet engine spinning up and pulling air in under the hood.

On a positive note...it looks nice !

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Which air intake did you install, Matt? New or used? K&N or some other brand? If not K&N, please post some details so we can see what might be going on. Pictures of current installation would be helpful too.

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Just an eBay one. I didn't expect much. I like the look of them.I put the stock back on and took a good look at it and noticed that it is almost just like a ram air intake. If there is any way to mod the stock one I'm open for suggestions....that or making the one I bought work.

 

I hooked up the computer to it and it gave me the code P0172.

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Edited by Matt Ives

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Didn't think you had the K&N :) This one is running too close to the engine anyway, and the path is too long. We need to keep it away from heat sources as much as possible. Is the tubing metal or plastic? These things may make the air hotter and thus less dense, ultimately less power. Where is the MAF sensor located (I can't make it out)? Do you have an Android device? you can use Torque Pro to monitor air temp vs intake air temp to see how much the air heats up.

 

Best/cheapest thing to do is use a drop in K&N in the stock setup, if you have a hankering for modding the air intake system, IMHO.

 

I see you also have a crankcase breather installed. How's it working?

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I already have a drop in k&n filter for the stock box. The crankcase breather came with the kit and I liked it but had to remove it cause of the tubing that goes from that to the stock air intake. Ide love to mod the stock intake. Oh and it's an aluminum one I bought.

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Aluminum = heat soak under continuous operation. Plastic/carbonfiber is a significant step up. IDK if plastidip would make any difference, but it would certainly change the look of the intake. Is that cone filter also a K&N?

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i am using the weapon r intake and it has no problems sounds great and got a little boost in power

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The cone filter, no it's not k&n. Only reason I bought the eBay one is cause it wasn't expensive and no overly cheap. I loved the sound but it was causing problems with the ECU.

 

Are there any kind of mods that I can do to the stock system? Like how big are the air intake muffler holes? I heard you can plug them without a problem.

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There are two holes, one bigger and one smaller. The smaller is 3.5 I'm sure but I bought the wrong size for the bigger one. This was all before I bought the new intake.

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I took off my silencer and went into Lowes/HomeDepot and then matched the black abs plastic caps to the size of the muffler protrusions. They are exact, but close. Do not get the white pvc stuff as its heat rating is 140 farenheit max and abs is 180. Underhood temps can gat to well over 200 but where they sit in rubber and are in a cooler air stream, they should be ok. Do remove the rubber intake tube and push them in so they become a flat continuous roof with the surrounding intake roof. In other words, you want the flow to be as uninterrupted and smooth as possible. Don't forget you'll need 2 clamps so they stay in position. I noticed my transmission is more responsive after doing this. 1/3 push on the pedal makes the tranny kick down where 2/3 pedal was needed before. Nice responsiveness. Horsepower increase? I doubt it, but better response. MPG is no worse. Can't say if it's better cause I can't keep my foot out of it after only a month of ownership. Definitely worth the $3 of plastic. Good luck

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I just removed the silencer and filled in the holes yesterday. You weren't kidding! The transmission runs a lot smoother...much less lag and jerking.

 

You know that small snorkel on the stock air box that when looking at it from in front of the car is on the bottom right of the box? Can that be plugged?

 

Can I also take the hose off coming from the engine to the intake tubing and plug the hole on the intake tube? I have a breather that I can put on the engine. As you can see from the above picture I posted.

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I wouldn't plug that small snorkel. I'm thinking Ford realized the main cold air input might not have been a large enough opening for the engine's full throttle breathing needs so they added the small snorkel to compensate. I'm just guessing though. Heck, you could temporarily plug it with duct tape and see how it runs at all throttle ranges. I'm still experimenting so I'll post if I come up with anything worthwhile.


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I don't think ill plug it but what about the hose coming from the engine to the air intake?

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That feeds clean air from the intake into the crankcase (positive pressure) that helps push vapors out the PCV valve and back into the combustion chamber on the other side. So I'd personally leave the tube there, but if you still want to proceed, no significant harm should come of using a breather on the valve cover end instead, don't plug it. You can plug the connection on the intake end though.

 

I'd definitely make sure the PCV valve is replaced at or before the 100K mark for spark plug changes. Don't want it clogged even a little bit if you are doing the breather mod.

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I might try it. It would make the engine bay a little more clean looking in my opinion. I know there is not much that can be done to the edge performance wise but what else could I do with the stock air box to possibly improve air flow or make the engine bay cleaner looking?

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At some point I'm either going to replace my stock air filter with a K&N oiley or a dry unit from AEM or AFE. K&N has good and bad points. K&N: It will let in more dirt than any other filter and there's a possibility (I'm not saying a probability) of mid-range torque loss. They flow like there's no filter in there at all, and sometimes this can only help at high rpms. The counter to this would be using the K&N but plugging the small snorkel to reduce a little flow and bring back mid-range torque. Dry filter: No dirt ingestion and probably flows a little better than the stock filter. I doubt there would be any torque loss with this, but potential high-end power might suffer a little when compared to K&N. Either way, my 4080lb SE might not notice a handful of hp gain... but I can dream, right!

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I've always liked k&n filters. Not having to buy a new one every 10 or so thousand miles is nice. I definitely need to clean mine though. I'm thinking about buying a k&n crankcase filter and removing the hose from the engine to the air intake.

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I did read a dyno report from K&N and they say you gain around 9.7 HP with installing the CAI. Not sure you can feel that but it's somthing

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I just removed the silencer and filled in the holes yesterday. You weren't kidding! The transmission runs a lot smoother...much less lag and jerking.

 

You know that small snorkel on the stock air box that when looking at it from in front of the car is on the bottom right of the box? Can that be plugged?

 

Can I also take the hose off coming from the engine to the intake tubing and plug the hole on the intake tube? I have a breather that I can put on the engine. As you can see from the above picture I posted.

With that said, wouldn't replacing the whole intake with a K&N cold air intake fix this issue since there's no silencer boxes in between?

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OR, would it be possible to find that rubber tubing *without* those holes that connect the resonator? That would be much easier..

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