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Engine Compartment Cleaning w/ Insulation Cover OFF?


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All, I am wondering about cleaning my engine bay with the foam insulating cover off. I am talking about the black foam cover that is installed over the intake manifold. Would there be any issues (other than making sure no water gets into any electrical connectors) that might preclude me from doing this? I am thinking about a gently water spray, then spraying the engine down with Simple Green, then carefully brushing off any especially dirty areas, then rinsing it down again. I have done an engine bay cleaning, but am interested in actually cleaning the engine.

 

Anyone think that this is a really bad idea? Any feedback that you might have about doing this?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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Well I don't really need to, I just want to. We all do a lot of things to our cars that aren't really needed. I just like to keep things nice and clean. It probably has something to do with my profession and the desire to keep things clean.

 

Any input on actually doing what I am suggesting?

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I power spray my engine and frankly have removed the foam covers to allow for the engine to cool better and keep the coils from overheating to extend their lives. Spraying it down without direct pressure works great. Never had a problem keep the wand back and have at it.

 

I agree and have done it many times cuz I like to keep my vehicles showroom new (It's a disorder!!):) Just make sure ya towel dry it and then run it until it's completely dry.

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..quick update.. I opted not to spray it down to clean it. I pulled off the foam covers and it was relatively clean from my perspective. I just blew it down really good with the needle attachment on my compressor. Blew a lot of dirt, dust, and leaves out. Glad I decided not to spray it - prolly for the best anyways.

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I have cleaned my engine with Simple Green, followed by a thorough "misting" of water to rinse it. Rather than using compressed air, which could potentially force water into electrical connections, I used my shop vac to remove the majority of the pooled up

rinse water, followed by toweling. Finally, I started the engine to evaporate the remainder of any residual moisture.

Years ago, I found out the hard way, to NEVER use Simple Green on a hot or even warm engine... it dried immediately, leaving stains and a chalky look that was impossible to remove.

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I have washed under the hood of every single vehicle I have owned every time I wash the vehicle. In 35 years, I had one issue and that was with a 65 Galaxy 500. Distributor got wet and didn't fire.

 

DO NOT USE HIGH PRESSURE. If your car wash wand still works on low when you release the handle, use that. If you wash regularly it will take very little to keep it clean. The engine on my 13 SEL is as. Lean as the day I picked it up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

"why would you need to...?"

 

I just bought my 2007 and the engine is sorta clean. But not really. But that was good to see as a buyer - that everything looked dry - no discernible leaks. Just dusty. No oily prints. Nothing out of place.

 

I am going to shop vac the leaves and pine needles out of the crevices. then probably attempt some further cleaning of the rest of the compartment just to get it as clean as possible. The detail shop at the dealer did what I would call a "basic" wash and that's about it other than drowning the tires in shiny crap. Can't wait to see it properly cleaned and detailed. Should be even better.

 

Randy

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  • 9 months later...

Continuing an old thread, I found an excellent video from Dallas Paint Correction and Detailing, showing an easy and really fast way to detail a very dirty engine bay. Note, the video is done in real time and runs around 15 minutes.

 

Quoted in tbe video, Scott uses Super Clean aerosol foam as the cleaner/degreaser, a Worx WG520, 600 cfm blower to blow out the leaves and loose dirt and to dry, a Worx Hydro Shot washer with distilled water to rinse, and either Miguires hyper dressing, or Stoner Trim Shine for the final bling.

Edited by enigma-2
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  • 1 month later...

<p>Here are a few pics.  Engine compartment is a bit dusty but this is about as dirty as it gets without wet driving conditions of course.</p>

I am having trouble getting the foam cover off of my 2016 3.5. I found two attachment points and it moves pretty easily, but I can't get it over the oil fill tube. Is there another fastener that I am missing? Any pictures of a 2nd gen 3.5. with the foam off? It looks to me to be a bit different than Norm's picture indicates.

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I did, but there is a plastic flange on the filler tube that the hole in the cover has to be pulled over. Here are a couple of pictures of the 2 gen engine bay and the undersides of that foam cover. The tape marks on the back of the cover indicate the push fasteners of which there are only two. The front of the cover is held in place by the flange on the oil tube filler.

post-35611-0-16860800-1510512817_thumb.jpg

post-35611-0-48613700-1510512830_thumb.jpg

Edited by Chipster
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  • 1 year later...

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