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DD2000GT

Edge Shift to Park Warning Message

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A new switch is now available from Ford to fix the issue, it is more expensive than the solution in the OP.

 

Great! Ford is buying the $5.02 switch and selling it 'on sale' for $16 :(. My $5.02 switch has been working 'perfect' for over 6 months :)

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I have to do the fix now and copy/pasted the DD2000GT solution into MS Word and cleaned it up for printing.

  1. Set the parking brake
  2. Start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate)
  3. Turn the car back off.
  4. Remove the center console with the cup holders.
  5. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up.
  6. Remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit.
  7. Separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done.
  8. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same.
  9. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch,
  10. Re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top.
  11. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter.
  12. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring.
  13. After you’re sure everything is fine, put the console back together in the reverse order you took it out.
  14. Smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work!

    *EDIT The forum broke the MS Word formatting, of course

Edited by LUPID
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Nice of you to do this, much appreciated :thumbsup:

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My pleasure, especially seeing how much help you guys provide.

Just a note on the switch replacement process. The new switch wire color DOES NOT match the old wires. Even though step 14 says this, I missed it. (I edited that part so no one else can miss it)

I followed the above procedure to the letter. When I was done, the switch seemed to be in the toggled ON mode, until in shifted into park. When in park, it still said SHIFT TO PARK, until you toggled the shifter trigger.

I connected the new switch to the old wires, matching the old black wire to the new black one. Then the old red wire to the new red wire (obviously). And the old blue wire had to go with the new green wire, right? Nope.

Turns out the black is pretty obvious, but the new red wire goes to the old blue wire and the new green wire goes to the old red wire. Not at all intuitive.

Good luck!


Edited by LUPID

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In post #1 of this Thread it says the colors don't match. I did what post #1 said to do and didn't have any problems figuring out the wiring colors. Just saying....:)

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Here I am trying to be helpful.

 

Fuck me, right?

 

Just saying...

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I'm not trying to be a smart ass but your posting something that was posted at post #1 of this Thread 15 months ago.

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For sure. I even mentioned that I missed it, even though its plainly stated.

 

I made a mistake and assumed. Just trying to help the next person that half-assed readsthe directions.

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I have to do the fix now and copy/pasted the DD2000GT solution into MS Word and cleaned it up for printing.

 

  1. Set the parking brake
  2. Start your car and move the shifter into drive (you need to do this so the console cover can move back away from the dash face-plate)
  3. Turn the car back off.
  4. Remove the center console with the cup holders.
  5. Remove the two side trim pieces by pulling straight up.
  6. Remove the 6 screws holding this cover down under the trim pieces with a Torx T-20 bit.
  7. Separate the center console from the dash face-plate - this also pulls straight out (towards the shifter) and is kind of difficult so pull carefully but aggressively. Pull straight up on the console from the rear closest to the storage box and it will pop loose and up. You will not be able to pull it up much due to a few wires still attached to the console, but it is more than enough to get the job done.
  8. Working from the passenger side, locate the existing microswitch mounted to the shifter towards the front. Pry it away from the shifter using a thin blade flathead screwdriver and un-route the wiring so you can pull this switch out enough to work with it. I cut the leads off the old switch where it was soldered in place and I had enough wire sticking out that I could splice the new one in easily. NOTE - Leave just a little of the wire coloring on the old switch so you can match the wires up to the new switch leads as the colors are not the same.
  9. Take the lever off the old switch and press it into place on the new switch,
  10. Re-mount the new switch to the shifter by pressing the posts into the appropriate holes on the shifter base. NOTE - install the switch with the lever down and the leads on top.
  11. Put the console cover back into place just enough so you can operate the shifter.
  12. Start the car and test your splices before putting everything back in place in case you need to pull it back out and fix the wiring.
  13. After you’re sure everything is fine, put the console back together in the reverse order you took it out.
  14. Smile that you finally fixed this annoying problem for $5 and less than an hours work!

     

    *EDIT The forum broke the MS Word formatting, of course

 

 

Any tips for step four? (ha!) I'm not sure if I missed anything but I can't find instructions on how to first remove the console before removing the sides.

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This video will describe how to remove it.

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Will the Omron D2HW - BL201M work with a 2012 Lincoln MKS.? I'm getting the same message "shift to park"

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Thanks to everyone for all the input on this issue.  My 2013 sport is doing this again!  I had the shifter assembly replaced under warranty at 21k miles... I am now at 53k and it just started happening again.  So I am going to buy that $5.02 switch and do it myself.  Ford said it was $560+tax for them to replace the assembly. 

 

edit: switches ordered.. I got three of them.. I am guessing in another 25K-ish I will need to do this again..

Edited by samiam
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5 minutes ago, samiam said:

Ford said it was $560+tax for them to replace the assembly

I am surprised dealers don't know that Ford now has a new much cheaper solution. 

 

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Yeah I saw that post also.  In all honesty I asked them outright how much it was to replace the shifter assembly and they gave me the price for that.  But they also mentioned doing an assessment first in which they might have determined for themselves it was only the switch and might gave gone that route. 

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I sure wish I would have googled this before I authorized my dealer to replace the entire shift assembly.  It's very sad that they can claim the entire assembly is defective while it's only a switch.  This is a very sad that they can claim that based on a simple switch.  Needless to say I will be mentioning this when I pick up my vehicle.  And it seems it is mainly prevalent in the 2013 model.  Interesting.

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1 hour ago, Genie said:

I sure wish I would have googled this before I authorized my dealer to replace the entire shift assembly.  It's very sad that they can claim the entire assembly is defective while it's only a switch.  This is a very sad that they can claim that based on a simple switch.  Needless to say I will be mentioning this when I pick up my vehicle.  And it seems it is mainly prevalent in the 2013 model.  Interesting.

The dealer may be aware or they very well may not.  If you bring it up to their attention and they want to act like Hellen Keller call Ford Corporate and tell them.  They are very open and receptive to local dealership concerns/ complaints.

Edited by onyxbfly
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I replaced the switch today on my car... Pretty easy work except for holding my flashlight while working with the wires..  I need one of those head mount lights. ;)

My switch I got from mouser had black, red, blue..  I connected black to black, (new) red to (old) blue, then (new) blue to (old) green.  Worked!  Thanks again to all the good information in this thread!  

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I'm happy people are finding this Thread and saving a lot of money. I did our $5.02 switch over a year ago, and still working perfect. :)

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It's not a matter of whether Ford knew it was the switch or not, it's just their decision on whether to offer the switch as a separate repair part or not.  Normally there would only be a few failures and it's easier to just replace the entire assembly.   Since there were a lot of reported problems and Ford did their research and determined it was the switch they came up with the procedure and part to fix it.  It's not like they said "we know it's just the switch but let's screw them and force them to replace the entire thing."

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I also want to mention, be careful when prying the old switch off of the shifter assembly.  I had one of the plastic posts break off and get stuck in the hole. I was able to get it out by tapping it on the back side and then using some needle nose pliers but for a moment there I was like "oh crap!"..

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On ‎12‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 11:54 AM, samiam said:

I also want to mention, be careful when prying the old switch off of the shifter assembly.  I had one of the plastic posts break off and get stuck in the hole. I was able to get it out by tapping it on the back side and then using some needle nose pliers but for a moment there I was like "oh crap!"..

 

 

It must be a common thing to happen. When I was installing the new switch, it would not go into the holes. I looked and noticed one of the old part legs had broken off and was in the hole. I gave it a couple hits and the old post fell out. I didn't give it much thought but like I said, it might be a common thing to happen :)

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