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shumax

Bad Moog Control Arms!

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2007 Ford Edge SEL V6 AWD.

 

Replaced the front lower control arms with MOOG parts at 110,000 miles back on 1/2/16. now, ~18-months later at 128,000, I noticed noise in the front end. Upon inspection, I noticed the ball joints had play in them!

 

RockAuto will replace the part, but no refund. Too boot, I have to pay to ship them back. I ended up ordering OEM arms for $160/arm as I don't want to deal with this again in 18,000 miles. The cost is in the labor to remove and replace. Very frustrating!

 

Buyer beware!

Shumax

Edited by shumax

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Not good. Generally Moog parts for suspension/steering work well.

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o/~ I feel a bad Moog driving.

A replacement on the way.

Looks like OEM gonna do it,

Rock Auto said ship, you pay.

:kookie:

Edited by Brucifer
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Yea, I'm not touching another Moog part. I even emailed them direct - no reply. It's not the part, it's the labor charge to R&R that irritates me. I'm not overly thrilled with RockAuto, either; though, I sense that's just how it goes. I was hoping they would just give me my money back. Whatever. Lesson learned - OEM parts when it comes to suspension that carries a high price tag for labor/ R&R.

 

Shumax

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New OEM arms in and all is back to normal. Solid and no noise.

Rock Auto had the ARMS back Monday at 5pm and they replacements were on my step Wednesday at 4pm. Now, their service center is 45min. from me, but that's still good service!

Shumax

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Yea, I'm not touching another Moog part. I even emailed them direct - no reply. It's not the part, it's the labor charge to R&R that irritates me. I'm not overly thrilled with RockAuto, either; though, I sense that's just how it goes. I was hoping they would just give me my money back. Whatever. Lesson learned - OEM parts when it comes to suspension that carries a high price tag for labor/ R&R.

 

Shumax

Interesting as I will say the Moog LCA's I installed on my 2008 were at about 60-80K miles when the ball joints went out. I however had an accident also so was not 100 percent sure of the cause. I am at 202,000 miles on the OEM LCA's right now so I am monitoring the ball joints for eventual failure. The Moog LCA's (arms) appear to be an exact match but I think the ball joints are the weak link.

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Afternoon Gents,

 

I too need to have my lower control arm replaced. I weighed the pros and cons of going with Moog vs. Motorcraft.

 

Despite the failure rate of the Moogs. I was considering going with the Moogs. The Moog is about half the price of motorcraft. My lady is currently driving my truck and her commute is about a mile round trip.

 

I figured what can go wrong. By time the part failed it would be a good number of years later. By that time I would have traded her in or sold her.

 

Ultimately I decided to go with the Motorcraft part. I know I don't get any extra credit for using OEM parts when I trade her in. The idea of passing on a potential problem to someone else doesn't sit well with me. The thought of having to pay to have the Moog installed, and then eventually pay to have it R&R with the Motorcaft control arm just made no sense. Least we forget the time involved.

 

In addition to the lower left control arm, I would like to know if the following is all I need to order:

 

W520213 Lower ball joint nut

3B438 Stabilizer bar link

W712481 Lower Ball joint bolt

W712734 Lower are to frame forward bolt

W712850 Lower arm to frame bolts (2 required)

Thanks for your time and patience with this matter.

Best Regards,

Onyx

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Also need the W520214 stabilizer bar link lower nut. This is the FSM on the gen 1.5 front LCA:

 

Item Part Number Description

1 3A423 RH/ 3A424 LH Lower arm

2 W520213 Lower ball joint nut

3 3B438 Stabilizer bar link

4 W714681 Lower ball joint bolt

5 W520214 Stabilizer bar link nut

6 W712734 Lower arm-to-frame forward bolt

7 W712850 Lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts (2 required)

 

Removal

NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. New parts must be installed with the same part numbers or equivalent part, if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

  1. Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link lower nut.
  1. Remove and discard the lower ball joint nut and bolt.
  1. Remove the lower arm-to-frame forward bolt and spacer.
    • Discard the bolt.
  1. Remove the 2 lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts and the lower arm.
    • Discard the 2 bolts.

Installation

  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

    Position the lower arm and loosely install the 2 new lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts.
  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this time.

    Loosely install the new lower arm-to-frame forward bolt and install the spacer.
  1. Install the new lower arm ball joint bolt and nut.
    • Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
  1. Install the new stabilizer bar link lower nut.
    • Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Install the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. With the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, tighten the lower arm-to-frame forward bolts to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
  1. With the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, tighten the 2 lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).
  1. Check and, if necessary, align the front end. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

 

AFAIK, these are the Ford part numbers in full

 

3 -W520213-S440 Stabilizer Bar Nut/Knuckle Nut, LEFT/RIGHT
$4.63 $2.67
5 -W712734-S439 Lower control arm-to-frame forward bolt, LEFT/RIGHT
$4.25 $2.45
6 -W712850-S439 Lower Control Arm-to-frame rearward bolts, LEFT/RIGHT
$2.13 $1.22
13 -W520214-S440 Control Arm Lock Nut/Stabilizer Link Nut, LEFT/RIGHT
$5.97 $3.44
2 -W714681-S439 Knuckle Bolt/Lower ball joint bolt, LEFT/RIGHT
$2.78 $1.60
4 8T4Z-3079-A Lower Control Arm, LEFT
$255.38 $161.53
4 8T4Z-3078-A Lower Control Arm, RIGHT
$255.38 $161.53
4 7T4Z-5K483-A Stabilizer Link EDGE, MKX
$44.29 $28.01

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2014-ford-edge/front-susp-arms-stabilizer-x-member.html?Filter=(30393;36997)

Qty Required/Qty in Pkg information listed on this site, hopefully accurate!

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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Afternoon Gents,

 

I too need to have my lower control arm replaced. I weighed the pros and cons of going with Moog vs. Motorcraft.

 

Despite the failure rate of the Moogs. I was considering going with the Moogs. The Moog is about half the price of motorcraft. My lady is currently driving my truck and her commute is about a mile round trip.

 

I figured what can go wrong. By time the part failed it would be a good number of years later. By that time I would have traded her in or sold her.

 

Ultimately I decided to go with the Motorcraft part. I know I don't get any extra credit for using OEM parts when I trade her in. The idea of passing on a potential problem to someone else doesn't sit well with me. The thought of having to pay to have the Moog installed, and then eventually pay to have it R&R with the Motorcaft control arm just made no sense. Least we forget the time involved.

 

In addition to the lower left control arm, I would like to know if the following is all I need to order:

 

W520213 Lower ball joint nut

3B438 Stabilizer bar link

W712481 Lower Ball joint bolt

W712734 Lower are to frame forward bolt

W712850 Lower arm to frame bolts (2 required)

Thanks for your time and patience with this matter.

Best Regards,

Onyx

You got it. Great moral courage.

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Also need the W520214 stabilizer bar link lower nut. This is the FSM on the gen 1.5 front LCA:

 

Item Part Number Description

1 3A423 RH/ 3A424 LH Lower arm

2 W520213 Lower ball joint nut

3 3B438 Stabilizer bar link

4 W714681 Lower ball joint bolt

5 W520214 Stabilizer bar link nut

6 W712734 Lower arm-to-frame forward bolt

7 W712850 Lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts (2 required)

 

Removal

NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. New parts must be installed with the same part numbers or equivalent part, if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

  1. Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link lower nut.
  1. Remove and discard the lower ball joint nut and bolt.
  1. Remove the lower arm-to-frame forward bolt and spacer.
    • Discard the bolt.
  1. Remove the 2 lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts and the lower arm.
    • Discard the 2 bolts.

Installation

  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

    Position the lower arm and loosely install the 2 new lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts.
  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this time.

    Loosely install the new lower arm-to-frame forward bolt and install the spacer.
  1. Install the new lower arm ball joint bolt and nut.
    • Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
  1. Install the new stabilizer bar link lower nut.
    • Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Install the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. With the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, tighten the lower arm-to-frame forward bolts to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
  1. With the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, tighten the 2 lower arm-to-frame rearward bolts to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).
  1. Check and, if necessary, align the front end. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

 

AFAIK, these are the Ford part numbers in full

 

3 -W520213-S440 Stabilizer Bar Nut/Knuckle Nut, LEFT/RIGHT

$4.63 $2.67

5 -W712734-S439 Lower control arm-to-frame forward bolt, LEFT/RIGHT

$4.25 $2.45

6 -W712850-S439 Lower Control Arm-to-frame rearward bolts, LEFT/RIGHT

$2.13 $1.22

13 -W520214-S440 Control Arm Lock Nut/Stabilizer Link Nut, LEFT/RIGHT

$5.97 $3.44

2 -W714681-S439 Knuckle Bolt/Lower ball joint bolt, LEFT/RIGHT

$2.78 $1.60

4 8T4Z-3079-A Lower Control Arm, LEFT

$255.38 $161.53

4 8T4Z-3078-A Lower Control Arm, RIGHT

$255.38 $161.53

4 7T4Z-5K483-A Stabilizer Link EDGE, MKX

$44.29 $28.01

 

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2014-ford-edge/front-susp-arms-stabilizer-x-member.html?Filter=(30393;36997)

 

Qty Required/Qty in Pkg information listed on this site, hopefully accurate!

Thanks for confirming my part list. More importantly thank you for including the missing link! (no pun intended)

 

You got it. Great moral courage.

Thank you. It's always best/ easier to do the right thing. I don't understand why some simply don't do it.

Edited by onyxbfly
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Good luck on the project, hope it goes smoothly for ya!

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On my 2nd Lincoln...OEM is the only way to go for suspension parts, (trial and error). JMO tho...:)

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Hi. I plan to replace Arm Control with right (the passenger party) what you think of quality of RAYBESTOS 5071644, it will be reasonable expenditure of money or to choose other brand? Thanks.

 

P.S.: Also I wanted to learn about possible replacement by OEM Mazda CX-9, in network there are data that it is identical parts, here an example of it

It will be cheaper than OEM Ford, but it will be quality of OEM Mazda, economy is notable, these are about 30% from OEM Ford price. But I heard that there are reefs when replacing by OEM Mazda CX9 2007, as far as I know, it will be necessary to ship fixing bolts for Mazda as they have other step of a carving. What do you think of it? Any your thoughts. Thanks.
Edited by EDST777

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Ford and Mazda has been in bed with each other for a long time. On some of the models some parts are interchangeable. Perfect example is the control arm you mentioned. If you plan on keeping this car for a long time I would suggest going with a stock control arm.

 

Replacing the control arm is relatively straight forward but there are other parts involved. Not sure its worth it to go with the Mazda unit if the ancillary parts end up costing you more. You have to see if the dollars make cents to you.

 

Good Luck.

Edited by onyxbfly
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Thanks for posting this, I have to do the same job pretty soon and was thinking Moog control arms instead of Motorcraft.

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…and went with the Moog brand control arm. The price was less than half of the Motorcrafts, and the limited remaining life of my Edge was also a decision factor. 11 winters’ worth of road salt... corrosion will kill this car before the miles do.

 

Speaking of corrosion, I had a worst-case scenario occur when doing this job. The forward arm-to-frame bolt attaches to a cage nut that is buried inside the subframe rail. When removing the bolt, the nut broke free of its cage, but stayed stuck to the bolt, and just spun around inside the rail. I had to cut an access hole in the bottom of the rail (about the size of a credit card), and pry the cage off, to get at the nut. The nut/bolt had so little clearance to the side of the rail that it was not possible to get a socket, box end, open end, vise gip, etc on to the nut. It had to be cut out and replaced with the only M14 hex nut that my hardware store had (which was probably grade 5 or 8, and not grade 10 like the bolt).

 

Next weekend’s project is what I could use some advice on. First, replace the temporary nut with a hex flange grade 10 nut. Then, drill and rivet a doubler plate to the bottom of the rail to replace what I cut out. I considered welding the plate instead, but that requires paying someone to do it, and makes for a much more difficult job if that plate ever has to be removed. However, I am open to being convinced otherwise. Or maybe there is a better idea that I am missing?

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…and went with the Moog brand control arm. The price was less than half of the Motorcrafts, and the limited remaining life of my Edge was also a decision factor. 11 winters’ worth of road salt... corrosion will kill this car before the miles do.

 

Speaking of corrosion, I had a worst-case scenario occur when doing this job. The forward arm-to-frame bolt attaches to a cage nut that is buried inside the subframe rail. When removing the bolt, the nut broke free of its cage, but stayed stuck to the bolt, and just spun around inside the rail. I had to cut an access hole in the bottom of the rail (about the size of a credit card), and pry the cage off, to get at the nut. The nut/bolt had so little clearance to the side of the rail that it was not possible to get a socket, box end, open end, vise gip, etc on to the nut. It had to be cut out and replaced with the only M14 hex nut that my hardware store had (which was probably grade 5 or 8, and not grade 10 like the bolt).

 

Next weekend’s project is what I could use some advice on. First, replace the temporary nut with a hex flange grade 10 nut. Then, drill and rivet a doubler plate to the bottom of the rail to replace what I cut out. I considered welding the plate instead, but that requires paying someone to do it, and makes for a much more difficult job if that plate ever has to be removed. However, I am open to being convinced otherwise. Or maybe there is a better idea that I am missing?

Stick with your plan as the only other real solution is to replace the sub frame. $$$$

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Stick with your plan as the only other real solution is to replace the sub frame. $$$$

 

Yes, I did, thanks. It went smoothly. And if the Moog control arm turns out to be a dud, the rivets can be drilled out for easier access to the nut.

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