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PTU drain plug drill and tap

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2010 3.5L

 

My fingers cannot reach the drain plug but a 3/8" ratchet can. So removal wouldn't be an issue. But how do I put it back? I can somehow bring the drain plug to the mouth of the hole, but how do I turn it for initial thread engagement? Is there a special tool or trick you guys have figured out already? Thank you.

 

EDIT: The question was hasty. I was able to access from the rear. By the way, about 1/3 cup came out when sucked with a hand pump but 1 cup went in. Does the system lose that much oil? No leak at the rear shaft, side shaft, or the gasket joint. Not even wet.

Edited by paker

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I thought that the 2010 didn't have a drain plug.

 

You'll find a lot more info in the existing threads on this topic -

 

 

Edited by 1004ron
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I used the wrong word. I should have said oil level check plug. Thank you for the link. 

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After reading multiple posts and watching "mact" videos, I am now convinced that adding a drain plug is the better long term solution. So here is my question for those who drilled/tapped the aluminum case. How thin/thick is the case? Is it thick enough to get 2 or 3 threads? Thank you.

Edited by paker

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4 hours ago, paker said:

After reading multiple posts and watching "mact" videos, I am now convinced that adding a drain plug is the better long term solution. So here is my question for those who drilled/tapped the aluminum case. How thin/thick is the case? Is it thick enough to get 2 or 3 threads? Thank you.

At least 3 to 4 threads - you'll find all that info in the thread I previously posted, and better off asking any additional questions there (why create a new thread on the same topic?).

 

Edit: See that the same topic threads were merged.

 

 

Edited by 1004ron

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Hi all,

 

New here. have an opportunity to get a 2010 AWD Edge from the local towing/recovery shop for what I feel like is a steal. My parents have a 2007 2wd and it is great for them. I am getting older myself now and have decided the Fusion is just too low to the ground for my knees these days.

 

Place that has it claims it has a bad "transfer" case (These are "good ol boys" so I assume they are talking about the PTU) Was researching into how difficult it was to change and found this forum/thread. I am pretty mechanically inclined, have plenty of tools at my disposal, but no doubt will probably need to buy the seal tooling.

 

Is 2,000$ a decent price for 120,000 miles 2010 AWD Edge knowing i'll have to buy the ~600$ PTU? Body is straight and clean, no codes, no other obvious issues.

 

Thanks!

Jelly
 

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13 hours ago, Jelly said:

Hi all,

 

New here. have an opportunity to get a 2010 AWD Edge from the local towing/recovery shop for what I feel like is a steal. My parents have a 2007 2wd and it is great for them. I am getting older myself now and have decided the Fusion is just too low to the ground for my knees these days.

 

Place that has it claims it has a bad "transfer" case (These are "good ol boys" so I assume they are talking about the PTU) Was researching into how difficult it was to change and found this forum/thread. I am pretty mechanically inclined, have plenty of tools at my disposal, but no doubt will probably need to buy the seal tooling.

 

Is 2,000$ a decent price for 120,000 miles 2010 AWD Edge knowing i'll have to buy the ~600$ PTU? Body is straight and clean, no codes, no other obvious issues.

 

Thanks!

Jelly
 

 

Welcome to the forum!  This is recommended reading:

 

 

Here is a website that details and chronicles the repairs and trials and tribulations of one of the most helpful forum members you can find. 

 

MACT GARAGE!

 

 

Edited by onyxbfly
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18 minutes ago, 14AWD3.5 said:

Update and thread bump.  Got my 3rd PTU flush (this time at a Firestone dealer, $80 by itself) at 55,000 miles. That should be well under any fluid thickening issue. Fluid (75/140) came out relatively clean. 1/2 qt (appx) replaced.  Manager said they'd never changed the PTU fluid on an Edge before! I had to show them where the drain plug was located.

 

Then I had them drain and fill the RDU (rear diff).  75/90 Ford equivalent fluid. This old fluid was dirtier looking. Glad I got that changed. Sure is a small differential housing.

 

Took them all of 35 minutes for both, nice having a lift and a power transfer pump machine to do the work. I don't have ramps or jackstands, though I could have bought them all for the total price ($197) but the convenience was what I paid for.  Done with the PTU now for another 25K, and the RDU till 100K.

 

Guys don't forget to flush your coolant to protect that internal water pump!

Thanks for the update.

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I am looking for the TPU drain drill location photo I have seen before here, but cannot locate it. Does anyone remember where it is? Thank you.

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6 hours ago, paker said:

I am looking for the TPU drain drill location photo I have seen before here, but cannot locate it. Does anyone remember where it is? Thank you.

I don't attempt using the forum search, just go with Google.

 

 

 

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Found the drawing I was looking for. It is embedded in this youtube video at 2:40.

 

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Thank you forum members. I was able to complete the project with your help. Summary notes:

1. Buck Newby had another youtube video. Drawing for the exact hole location is in this other video.

2. I used a T-handle tapping wrench with both hands for the first 2 threads to ensure straight threading. The remaining was done with a socket and a socket wrench.

3. My drain hole is 1/8". I used 1/8" npt tap, 5/16" 12 point socket, 3/8" extension, 3/8" ratchet. Casing was at least 1/2" thick. For 1/8" plug, I tapped about 2/3 of the hole depth. No worries of shavings to enter the gear box. 

Thank you.

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Add me to the list of leaking PTUs (07 MKX). Incredible Ford’s been silent, I’m guessing a class action would be needed to get a response.

 

Likely trading in the car in less than a year. Haven’t had any symptoms except black sludge on the PTU. Should I bother flushing the fluid? If chances are very low of a catastrophic failure I’d rather forego. 
 

Also should that stop the leak, or even with new oil will it continue leaking? It’s black sludge so I assume it’s splatter from the vent, not the seals. 

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If you were keeping it for a year I'd change it. Why risk a failure and the subsequent expense?

If you were trading it this month then no.

Just my 1.5 cents.

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Thanks to Bucknewby plus several other videos & forum threads,

while doing latest 3yr\33kMile Oil changes for the front PTU & rear Differential on my wifes 2008 Ford EdgeSELAWD,

installed modifications noted+pictured below to ease servicing the PTU.

~ Drilled+Tapped PTU AluminumCase bottom; installed new 0i375\0m010ThreadDiameter DrainValve Fumoto#f124n.

~ Removed PTU top Vent JiggleCap+Rubber1Way (used 5/8"Socket+ScrewPick); reveals 3/8"HoseBarb; installed 3/8"ID Fuel\Oil Hose upto new OilCatchCan on FireWall.

~ Replaced PTU side FillPlug with 1/2"PipeThread~3/8"HoseBarbElbow; installed 3/8"ID Fuel\Oil Hose upto new OilCatchCan on FireWall.

~ Installed new OilCatchCan\Tank + VentFilter + 3/8"PipeThread~3/8"HoseBarbElbows2ea on FireWall upper lip, between FuseBox+Battery.

The Filter+Strainer fittings inside the OilCatchCan are not required, thus were removed & not used.

Now easy to drain Oil from PTU & refill at OilCatchCan top Plug: 1/2qt=16oz AmsOil#75w140.FullSyn + 2oz ATP#at205\ReSeal.

Also wrapped ExhaustPipe under+near PTU with FiberGlassInsulation to help reduce it's operating temp.

Considering trouble others have had & how black oil was, may do PTU Oil change with Engine Oil change every 6mths\5kMiles.

2008.Ford.ESEL_Tran.PTU~_ModA.Valv_0i375oDia~24MNPThrd~0i375Barb_Fumoto.f124n.GIF

2008.Ford.ESEL_Tran.PTU~_ModB.Vent_0i375iDia~0i625oDia.GIF

2008.Ford.ESEL_Tran.PTU~_ModC.Fill_0i500oDia~14MNPThrd~0i375Barb.GIF

2008.Ford.ESEL_Tran.PTU~_ModD.Tank_0i375iDia~24MNPThrd~0i375Barb.GIF

Edited by DILLARD000
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On 7/20/2017 at 9:29 PM, deathrattle said:

I think I may have the PTU on my wife's 2015 edge sport awd. Just dropped it at the dealership. Car has 23k miles on it.

 

All of the sudden harsh grinding noise ONLY under acceleration. Front right under the car. Do these symptoms match up to the PTU issue?

 

Whatever it is, the edge is our transportation to our two week vacation to Colorado next Wednesday. Certainly don't want to pay for a rental that is big enough to get all four of us CO.

Hey Deathrattle, saw this post and have a 2018 Sport that making a hard grinding only under acceleration, seems similar to what you mentioned and can't find any other mention...anywhere online except for your experience. I was wondering if you were able to get it diagnosed and resolved? Had mine to (2) separate dealerships. First one couldn't duplicate the noise, second said it's normal!!! No...it is DEFINITELY not normal. Anyway, thanks if you can enlightening me al all.

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On 6/25/2018 at 8:10 AM, ManiN said:

Hi All, thought I'd post my applied fixes to this same problem.

 

Have a 2013 Edge with classic leaky PTU leaving splats of black oil on the garage floor with also the burning of the same oil splats on the exhaust crossing under the output shaft from the PTU.

 

I've read through many forums related to this issue in various forms and finally built up the courage to apply some of the methods to get past this issue. One important one being to add a drain for oil changes, but I also wanted to deal with the belching breather. In another forum I noticed on the focus, ford actually provides a kit to extend the breather into the engine bay by way of removing the old jiggly cap breather and putting this kit on that has a barbed insert, hose, and breather cap. Specifically the kit is AG1Z-7034-A. (forum I found this info: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6849.0)

 

I couldn't find any documented application of this kit to an Edge, but I did find someone with an Explorer put this on. Before purchasing, I thought I'd get under and feel it out to see if it were even possible. Glad I did because it isn't really possible to do that kit on the Edge without removal of the PTU. There just isn't enough room to remove the breather and tap in the barbed nipple for the extension hose. However, there's still a solution if you're motivated...

 

The jiggle cap breather is already installed, so I took a risk and knew that if I could remove the cap (blindly by reaching up through and over and just feeling it out), I could pull out the rubber check valve within and thus converting the vent into a nipple to put a hose on. I was ultimately successful by using a socket and shorty 3/8 ratchet. I slipped the socket over the jiggle cap and pulled to the side and rotating the ratchet. This essentially flared the jiggle cap open and after a bit of fighting I got the cap off. Next I fought the rubber check valve a bit, but in hindsight, just use a pick and it should just pull out easy.

 

At this point you'll have a "nipple" to put some 3/8 hose on. The breather body dia. is somewhere just under 1/2". I was able to slip the hose over with a clamp to secure it. At that point you can secure the top of the hose to the wiring next to the master cylinder up top. You'll need to find a breather online to put in the end of the hose. Something like a Toyota 90930-03136 or Dorman 924-284 Axle Vent. I just found this online, but as long as it is designed to breathe / vent outward, you should be ok. Even just a filtered vent would be fine. Just make sure it fits your hose. Of course you could buy the $75 kit for the focus mentioned above, but I cannot verify if that hose will fit the modified jiggle cap breather converted to nipple.

 

After this vent tube was installed, I drilled the drain and tapped a 1/8-27 NPT plug. I was able to drain the fluid and simply grab my royal purple bottle and just squirt it into the vent tube. Soooo easy.... Once it was dripping from the plug in the side (original fill location), I stopped adding fluid and buttoned everything up.

 

All in all I'm glad i have a full solution to this problem now. I'll update with results, but having ready all of the success in both of these mods, I am sure I'll be able to share the same results.

 

End comments: It may seem a little ghetto to mod the jiggle breather like that, but I assure you, unless you want to drop your PTU to do this, it's impossible to pull and replace that breather with something where it is located otherwise. And unfortunately, I didn't take pics, but there is enough documentation related, you can navigate your way through this without them.

Wanted to thank

ManiN for his thread entry, specificly how to remove the PTU VentCap, &

BuckNewby for his vids on how to install a PTU Drain.

These inspired the PTU mods on my 2008 EdgeAWD; details at:

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23396-ptu-drill-and-tap/?do=findComment&comment=219556

 

 

Edited by DILLARD000
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On 12/27/2012 at 6:50 PM, the_natrix said:

good news!

 

the PTU is fine. very minor scuffing on the hypoid gears.

Others who have analyzed the Ford PTU issue say the real problem is the proximity of the PTU to high heat producing devices like the CAT and other parts.  This heat "cooks" the oil and eventually turns it into a lump of carbon, destroying the bearings and then the gears.  I had the PTU fluid changed at 35K miles in my 2018 Taurus, and it was timely according the technician who did the change.  Interestingly I went to my dealer's service dept and asked for the service to be done and was discouraged from doing so, not necessary I was told.

Edited by 1004ron
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Tell them you drove through deep water. Ford's service requires fluid change in PTU and differential when driven through deep water. (Its in the maintenance manual).

 

If they still panic about changing fluid when Ford doesn't have a support procedure, tell them they can pump out the old fluid using the same pump used to change the differential fluid. I think I paid $80 in September at local Lincoln dealer.

 

 

Edited by enigma-2

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