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2016 Edge Sport Liftgate Will Not Open

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Have the power liftgate, cannot get it to open using the following methods:

-wave my foot under the bumper while holding key fob

-press the unlock tailgate button on remote 2X

-press the dash button for the tailgate

The only thing that happens when I do the above is the hazard lights flash 2X, which I believe normal.

I crawled into the back, popped the little cover in the center of the tailgate to look for a manual latch and there is nothing in there.

Disabled then reenabled power liftgate function through the menu, nothing.

Anything I am missing?

TIA

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Is the battery verified working ok? CCAs?

 

There is a cinch button that needs to be depressed once the access cover is removed. Need a flatbladed screwdriver for this. If that does not open the latch, use the screwdriver to hook to the latch release on the right side of the cover opening and slide the screwdriver to the left to open the latch.

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Thanks for the reply.

 

I didn’t verify CCA’s, only that it is a 2016 with only 4300 miles and everything else works as it should. Maybe the battery is dying early?

 

I will look for that cinch button but I did explore the space behind the cover pretty well the first time and didn’t see anything, maybe I missed it.

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Did you check the fuse? Fuse number is 76. Page 295 in OM.

Edited by enigma-2
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That Edge is barely driven! It needs to have the battery charged up on a proper charger, then maintained with a battery tender. Or you could opt to replace the lead acid battery with an AGM type battery. The AGM is stouter, although this would be bandaiding the problem. Keeping the battery charged either through sufficient driving or a battery tender is the real fix.

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I had the same issue. The dealership said that while they were troubleshooting and diagnosing it the liftgate started to function properly. I asked what was the issue the service rep said that "since it was functioning properly they were no longer required I.E. paid to look into it further." When pressed further he asked the tech and the tech said he doesn't know......

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I had the same issue. The dealership said that while they were troubleshooting and diagnosing it the liftgate started to function properly. I asked what was the issue the service rep said that "since it was functioning properly they were no longer required I.E. paid to look into it further." When pressed further he asked the tech and the tech said he doesn't know......

 

Classic CCWT.

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So still no luck with the tailgate.......verified fuse 76 is OK by swapping with a known good 30A fuse, then drove for 25 miles to recharge battery just in case it had an issue.

Also, the only thing I see in that little space behind the access cover was a torx screw. There is no latch or cinch button. Removing the torx screw didn’t look like it would lead to anything plus I didn’t have the correct size torx bit so I didn’t do it.

 

I see a regrettable dealership visit in my future.......

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Do you have a voltage tester? See what the battery is doing when the vehicle is running? Should be around 14 volts running & around 12 volts not running. Obviously it isn't going to test amperage, but it 'almost' sounds like the motor for the power lift gate isn't working, weather it's not got enough power or the motor is bad. When you hit the button by the steering wheel & the hazards flash, that usually indicates that the lift gate should open, does on mine.

 

Do you hear like a gear turning when you open & close the lift gate manually? I can usually hear it when it's opening & closing manually or automatically. It's not like the typical 'hissing' noise from the struts when you open or close the lift gate. BUT, i've heard if you slam the lift gate down too hard or force it to open or close, this could damage the gears in the lift motor. Whether or not this is true, i don't know. If all else fails, i would maybe try to pull the Negative Battery cable off for 5 minutes or so & reset the computer & things & see if that fixes it. IF that doesn't work & your car is still under warranty, it's off to the dealer.

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Thanks.....I don’t have a voltage tester but if everything else on the car works I doubt the battery is the culprit. You may be onto something with the bad lift motor however.

 

I can’t open the tailgate so can’t check the gear sound. But, I’ve never forced/closed the tailgate manually ever, so there should be no damage to the gears.

 

I will try disconnecting the negative battery now and see what happens. Thanks again.

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Disconnecting the negative lead on the battery didn’t do squat, so I’m thinking it’s a bad tailgate motor.

 

If anyone else wants to throw a rope to a drowning man before I go under and see the great dealership in the sky, lol, I’ll take any suggestions. At least I’m still under warranty. I’ll be sure to report back with the fix.

 

Thanks to all who’ve helped so far, much appreciated!

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If it’s the original battery that means it’s close to or over 3 years old. Personally I would just replace it to be safe and see if that solves the problem. You’d be surprised at the strange things that weak batteries cause even when everything else seems to be ok.

 

If it was the motor then it should still unlatch and it sounds like it’s no doing that, so maybe it’s the latch that’s stuck.

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The manual latch is behind the littl access panel as MACT describes here:

 

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Agreed, it could still be the battery, if so, I’ll let the dealership replace under warranty if they deem necessary. Could also be the latch, but it is automatically latched closed with no way to manually unlatch so don’t know if the latch is the culprit.

 

I did find the video you posted above yesterday, thanks for that, but mine is a 2016, which is not the same year as is in the video. So the design has changed. I can definitively tell you once the access panel is removed, there is no latch to be seen or felt, unless it is somewhere behind the metal panel with the torx screw that I see, but I really doubt it. I see no way to remove that panel.

 

Maybe someone with a 2016 can look at their access panel to confirm?

 

Thanks again akirby.

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The instructions for manual release of the liftgate are here

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fv8z-AqOpghGEmK-_0UA_PRCjLUHQZ4b

 

If you are even a little into DIY, given how deep into electronics vehicles are these days, a DVOM is a no-brainer to have around. Even ones from the much maligned Harbor Freight. Here is a look at what macbwt's toolbox has evolved into LOL

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The instructions for manual release of the liftgate are here

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fv8z-AqOpghGEmK-_0UA_PRCjLUHQZ4b

 

 

That is definitely not a user friendly procedure. And surely more involved than earlier models. Seems there is a cinch release button for vehicles equipped with a power lift gate that needs to be pressed. Then, for all vehicles, you'll need to insert a a 3.5 mm wide flat­bladed screwdriver through the access cover opening at a 45 degree angle for 10 mm deep on the right hand side then 5 mm deep on the left side.

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Thanks PerfA for posting the instructions.

I was able to find the cinch button.

It is located inside a small circular opening (not mentioned in the instructions) of the inner tailgate metal panel, barely visible once the access cover is removed. To see it, you first have to remove the cargo floor in order to make room for your head to get lower than the access opening then look up to the left inside the access opening.

The cinch button doesn’t stay depressed once you let go of it, but should it? Dunno. Moving on, I can’t find exactly, and the instructions don’t tell you, where inside the opening to insert the 3.5mm flathead at a 45 deg angle to slide a latch (?) or anything 5mm to the left.

 

I’ve had 2 friends attempt this, we all have failed. Inside the access cover is now all marred up from probing everywhere with screwdrivers in an effort to open the tailgate. I can just hear Ford try to deny the warranty for customer tampering with the tailgate.

 

It’s ridiculous that there is no release cable or some easier way to do this.

 

Thankfully I was not stuck on the side of the road with a flat with this inoperable tailgate holding my spare tire hostage.

 

Maybe they will let me watch the Ford tech do this procedure when I go to the dealer, but probably not.

 

Thanks to all again!

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Update....

 

Was ready to throw in the towel and go to the dealer when I found a small pair of curved suture scissors laying around. One more try......

 

Used them instead of the 3.5mm flathead screwdriver to pry into the area that most likely would open the hatch and eureka, it worked!

 

The upward curve of the scissors provided just enough of a correct angle to catch the latch and open it. Numerous attempts with the flat blade screwdriver were useless.

 

Then I had to disconnect the negative lead to the battery for 5 minutes to reset the computer and get the tailgate to function properly.

 

In hindsight, I should have just disconnected the negative lead first before trying to manually unlock the tailgate, duh!

 

Still don’t know what caused the tailgate to stop functioning in the first place, maybe the battery? Will have to monitor.

 

Thanks again everyone.

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Glad you got it sorted out. Fortunately disconnecting the negative battery lead worked for you. Unfortunately for me not so much. I had to wait two days for them to tell me she's ready and done.

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That’s a bummer.....I try to avoid dealership visits whenever possible as you’ve read, but happy you got it back working.

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