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PTU drain plug

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Best admission you will get from Ford is based on the changes made in the revised versions of the PTU, up to and including the completely new PTUs starting in Gen 2.  So far they have updated bearings and fluid capacity.  Adding the drain plug was a bonus.

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since then there have passed 10 years, they not strongly hurry). Interestingly what number ptu with the changed bearings and the camera for oil?

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3 hours ago, EDST777 said:

since then there have passed 10 years, they not strongly hurry). Interestingly what number ptu with the changed bearings and the camera for oil?

 

I don't understand what you mean by camera for the oil. If you are referring to inspecting it, I would suggest doing a flush and fill a few times and have a reputable shop inspect a sample of the old fluid.  Based on the results you may be able to save your PTU or you have to replace it.  The only thing you have invested at that point is drain/ siphoning the old fluid out, paying for the sample to be analyzed and new fluids. 

 

If DIY You might want to drain and fill a few times to ensure that you get most if not all of the old fluid out. Drive it for 50-100 miles and drain and fill again.  Some suggest using a cleaner of some sort.  You would have to be very diligent to assure that all of the cleaner is removed. 

 

If you have a shop do it they have machines that can extract all of the fluid, gunk and build up from the PTU.

 

Since you are in Russia you might be better served to see if you can get a PTU from the Middle East. As far as I know those are the only ones that come from the factory with a drain plug to facilitate fluid changes due to being classified as extreme duty.

 

Or I would buy the most recent revision PTU for your model if one with a drain plug is not available. I would either install the drain myself or have a shop do it. 

 

I would suggest Amsoil, Redline, or Royal Purple. My brother prefers Redline and I prefer Amsoil. We both agree that Royal Purple is a worthy equivalent.  Either way any of the brands I mentioned are better than the "lifetime" fluid from Motorcraft/ Ford.

 

Good Luck. 

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thanks for your detailed answer. On my ptu I have made recently drain plug and I use it, before I changed oil using big pharmaceutical pressure gun on 100 milliliters and plastic tube of appropriate size, but part of oil always remained and it was partial replacement, I did it rather often.я did it in one hour, now using plug I do full replacement and it easier and quicker. I use Castrol 75w 140, it hope approaches for this purpose enough, but I will address attention to the oils offered by you, it seemed to me for this gear in this case there is no special difference in brand, but replacement frequency is important. perhaps I was mistaken. for the following replacement I have bought motul 75 w140, heard many good reviews about this oil, but it seems to me that work of oil will be obvious only on the new gear if the needle bearer has begun will not get out brand of oil from the seat to be crucial.

Edited by EDST777

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Just a thought, if you are not able to buy a PTU for  a pre 2015 with a drain plug (Middle East spec), would a PTU from a 2015+ with a drain plug fit? Would that be an option for those in the US? 

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17 minutes ago, EDST777 said:

thanks for your detailed answer. On my ptu I have made recently drain plug and I use it, before I changed oil using big pharmaceutical pressure gun on 100 milliliters and plastic tube of appropriate size, but part of oil always remained and it was partial replacement, I did it rather often.я did it in one hour, now using plug I do full replacement and it easier and quicker. I use Castrol 75w 140, it hope approaches for this purpose enough, but I will address attention to the oils offered by you, it seemed to me for this gear in this case there is no special difference in brand, but replacement frequency is important. perhaps I was mistaken. for the following replacement I have bought motul 75 w140, heard many good reviews about this oil, but it seems to me that work of oil will be obvious only on the new gear if the needle bearer has begun will not get out brand of oil from the seat to be crucial.

 

If you have access to shop that can remove all of the prexisiting fluid that would be the best way to go.  I would try a cleaner to remove all of the old fluid, but since you have said that you have done it a few times you should be all good.

 

Motul is a excellent company with a stellar reputation. I failed to mention them because I do not use them very often and their fluids actually cost more than the ones I mentioned. (At least in my neck of the woods.)  If I had a choice I would choose Motul over Castrol.  I have used both over the years and would not hesitate to use either if in a pinch. 

 

Like you said the frequency of the fluid change is important. The other contributing factor is the flashpoint. The flashpoint is the weak link with the Motorcraft fluid. You should compare specs between the fluids.  This way you can make an informed decision. 

 

1 minute ago, omar302 said:

Just a thought, if you are not able to buy a PTU for  a pre 2015 with a drain plug (Middle East spec), would a PTU from a 2015+ with a drain plug fit? Would that be an option for those in the US? 

 

I have often heard but never personally checked to see if the parts/ part numbers were compatible. I have read that some have replaced their PTUs with SHO performance package  or the Taurus Police Interceptor PTUs.  Those models both have drains.  I may have read that PTU from the explorer will work. I say may have read because I do a ton of surfing and sometimes its hard to keep track of the various places etc.  But you very well may be on to something. 

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21 minutes ago, Ntrain2k said:

Do all 2016 models have the drain in the PTU?

 

I haven't checked the other models, but I do know that the 2015+ Sport have drains in the PTU.

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27 minutes ago, Ntrain2k said:

Do all 2016 models have the drain in the PTU?

@WWWPerfA_ZN0W has previously confirmed that all 2015+ models have the drain plug.

 

We have also seen differences between models - one model has cooling fins, which are not seen on the Sport.

Edited by 1004ron
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Thanks guys.

 

This is of course for my new explorer. Their forums are DEAD!

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I also installed a heat shield made from a piece of tin and mounted it between the exhaust and the PTU - basically a larger shield than the OEM one. From many previous posts, the consensus was that the reason these things fail is from extended heat soakings from the exhaust which is very close by thereby cooking the oil and causing it to get thicker and thicker and not providing any lube to the bearings. After a while, it starts to puke from the vent and oil on the garage floor is the first sign most people get that the PTU has a problem. By then it is too late. The PTU is just an expensive gearbox which really should last forever - but not with gooey oil that has boiled off. Poor lube and it doesn't have a chance. I generally change the oil every 8000 miles and all has been good - so far and that was 4 years ago. Perhaps too frequent (?). I drilled a drain hole and threaded it. Initially I tried to suck it out from the fill hole but there was interference in getting the little sucker tube in and i didn't get much out. I somewhat doubt that a shop could do much better sucking it out. A drain is the way to go because you get to flush the crap out. I have been using Castrol 75W140. Yes the other more expensive oils would probably be marginally better, but I prefer more frequent changes. A friend says "You have to change oil or change parts - and oil is much cheaper". Good advice.

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I want to add that here perhaps several main reasons which work or at the same time or in combination or in turn. There is video where sorted ptu ford edge and it was visible that in certain cases, often eventually the needle bearer leaves the place in pinion gear and begins to mix up outside. Its edges sharpen aluminum cap of ptu, the rumble and vibration at speed appears and if it not to stop the bearing will wedge. Offset of the bearing can stop big than oem hollow disk which will not allow to be displaced to the bearing. There is video, but in Russian, I will place the reference to it below, I think there the sense will be clear.

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in this video ptu Mazda cx9, Ford explorer v, Ford edge are compared. ptu ford edge and explorer identical also suit one another. They differ from cx9 in one detail, it is shaft with vents which is inserted into gear box differential cup. This shaft can easily be replaced with ptu edge with cx9 and back. The hollow disk which holds pinion gear, but which does not hold the bearing and the bearing over time is shown comes from the seat to light sharpening ptu cap.

as option the solution is proposed: to turn hollow disk big by the size which will hold the bearing on the place.

Edited by EDST777

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There was a part mentioned in a thread around here or maybe even this thread, there is a vent tube that goes from the PTU up into the engine bay. I assume this is to prevent ptu puking. 

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BrianK:  do you feel the extended heat shield has made a difference?

 

Probably fair to say PTUs mounted to the 6F50 transmissions are the same across models, but what MYs match is a different story, as changes don't necessarily happen in lockstep between models. 6F55 PTUs are different from 6F50 PTUs.

 

The vent extension was added onto the eco 2.0 in Gen 2, possibly 3.5 and 2.7, but do not know.  Yes it is to help with fluid expansion.  Run known VINs on the dealer or Ford site and check if the vent extension is available for all 3 engines in Gen 2.

 

Yes, all AWD Edge starting in 2015 (i.e. Gen 2) have drain plugs standard from factory.

 

Only way to find out if a solution works is to try it out.  Wouldn't hold my breath tho.  Ford has had to make revisions especially to support the Police Interceptors.  Still not perfect.  Instead of replacing the PTU tho, they now have kits to replace the idler gear.

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Has anyone considered Schaeffer's Specialized Fluids gear oil?  Their 170 EXTREME PERFORMANCE FULL SYNTHETIC SAE 75W-140 has a flash point of 489°!  Just tossing another option out there.  I haven't used it yet, but I might. I plan on changing my PTU fluid every third oil change. Since I recently changed my PTU gear oil, it will be a while before my next service interval. 

 

https://www.schaefferoil.com/gear-oils-lubricants.html

 

271-170-td.pdf

Edited by onyxbfly
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PerfA - I can't say whether or not the extra shield has made a difference because now since I put in the drain, I change the oil regularly - every 2nd engine oil change. It is still coming out dirty but I think this is because it is still cleaning the sludge out that is in pockets in the PTU. No failure yet so changing the oil seems to be helping. I added the extra shield because of what others said about cooking the oil due to heat and of course I prefer to change oil than parts.

I suppose a high temperature oil would help longevity considering the oil seems to turn to goo and that seems to be a result of overheating the oil beyond its temperature spec. Couldn't hurt.

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My '11 Ltd AWD will soon pass 100k miles.  I do PTU oil changes with Valvoline 75w-140 High Temp Full Synth gear oil at 20k intervals.  So far, so good!  My local shop does the suck and fill method with their machine but I bring the oil.  They have been servicing my cars for 20 years and serviced my Explorer up to 213,000 when I sold it.  My philosophy is that its best to do frequent changes with a proven oil that do an eternal search for the perfect oil to extend changes.   Same with engine oil.  Mobil-1 at 5k intervals.

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Would love to seem some Blackstone data once in a while to figure out if the advice being doled out by any of us has helped make a difference.  Gives a uniform basis for comparison :)

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7 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Would love to seem some Blackstone data once in a while to figure out if the advice being doled out by any of us has helped make a difference.  Gives a uniform basis for comparison :)

 

I thought MacT did a fluid sample... Maybe he did or maybe I wished he did LOL

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Since I just got my 2013 AWD Edge and reading about all these PTU issues has me concerned. Everything seems OK now but want to take some preemptive action. Does anyone know of a mechanic in the Denver Colorado area that can drill and tap the PTU for the drain plug so I can start changing the oil regularly? Thanks

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Hey Steve - Why not DIY!

I put in a drain hole myself by following pictures/recommendations in various PTU posts. There is one post/picture showing dimensions from various PTU landmarks. I started by using a small drill bit and allowing all the oil to drain out once it went through. I drilled slowly so the bit wouldn't penetrate too far into the PTU. You can tell when you're through because oil starts to come out - which helps clean the area of any debris from drilling. Then once drained, I used a larger bit (sized for a 1/4" pipe thread Tap - it's tapered so the plug fits tight) and drilled slowly. Once through, I used a bent Q-tip to clean the inside area of any loose aluminum filings that may have been deposited there from drilling. Then I tapped the hole and again cleaned the inside very carefully with a bent Q-tip until I was satisfied that it was free of aluminum cuttings from the drilling and tapping. Then I installed the plug, and filled drove and drained number of times to clean the sludge out. If you are at all handy it's not hard - just takes some intestinal fortitude to drill the first hole LOL.

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Here is a picture of the extension I added to the OEM heat shield.

MKX PTU heat shield extension.jpg

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Here is a picture of the drain hole. Hopefully this might help others in locating where to drill the hole.

MKX PTU drain plug location.jpg

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