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PTU drain plug

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Hey Steve - Why not DIY!

I put in a drain hole myself by following pictures/recommendations in various PTU posts. There is one post/picture showing dimensions from various PTU landmarks. I started by using a small drill bit and allowing all the oil to drain out once it went through. I drilled slowly so the bit wouldn't penetrate too far into the PTU. You can tell when you're through because oil starts to come out - which helps clean the area of any debris from drilling. Then once drained, I used a larger bit (sized for a 1/4" pipe thread Tap - it's tapered so the plug fits tight) and drilled slowly. Once through, I used a bent Q-tip to clean the inside area of any loose aluminum filings that may have been deposited there from drilling. Then I tapped the hole and again cleaned the inside very carefully with a bent Q-tip until I was satisfied that it was free of aluminum cuttings from the drilling and tapping. Then I installed the plug, and filled drove and drained number of times to clean the sludge out. If you are at all handy it's not hard - just takes some intestinal fortitude to drill the first hole LOL.

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Here is a picture of the drain hole. Hopefully this might help others in locating where to drill the hole.

MKX PTU drain plug location.jpg

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I'd be more than willing to attempt myself, I'm pretty handy, if someone who has done this could put together a complete parts list so I can buy all the correct tools. Drill bit, tap, and plug. I'd just hate to buy random parts and not have them work, like a plug with the wrong threads than the tap, etc. That is my biggest fear.

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Hi Steve

I know what you mean about getting the right parts. What I did was go to an autoparts place and told them what I wanted to do and got all the parts there so all would fit together - basically 3 things - a tap, drill bit and a plug. The hole size is 1/4" NPT. If you buy the tap that size, the tap package will tell you (probably) what size drill bit to use - or the parts guy should be able help. Get a small bit to start the hole (say 1/8") because it is easier to drill a pilot hole first. By the way, NPT is National Pipe Thread and it is used because it is tapered and when you thread the plug in, it will eventually tighten up and seal - not like a nut and bolt type of thread. When tapping the hole, don't 'tap too far into the PTU - just enough to get some good threads but not so far as to hit anything inside the PTU. When drilling the pilot hole, be really careful that you don't 'wiggle' the bit and break it off - just take it easy with the hole drilling. Good luck.

 

Edited by Brian K
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On 2/7/2019 at 8:38 AM, Brian K said:

Hi Steve

I know what you mean about getting the right parts. What I did was go to an autoparts place and told them what I wanted to do and got all the parts there so all would fit together - basically 3 things - a tap, drill bit and a plug. The hole size is 1/4" NPT. If you buy the tap that size, the tap package will tell you (probably) what size drill bit to use - or the parts guy should be able help. Get a small bit to start the hole (say 1/8") because it is easier to drill a pilot hole first. By the way, NPT is National Pipe Thread and it is used because it is tapered and when you thread the plug in, it will eventually tighten up and seal - not like a nut and bolt type of thread. When tapping the hole, don't 'tap too far into the PTU - just enough to get some good threads but not so far as to hit anything inside the PTU. When drilling the pilot hole, be really careful that you don't 'wiggle' the bit and break it off - just take it easy with the hole drilling. Good luck.

 

I would recommend coating the bit and tap with heavy grease to catch chips from going into the PTU unless you are disassembling it. Also use a helical-coil to avoid stripped threads in the future. Those cast aluminum cases are super soft and wont take much to pull the treads right out of it. 

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Those parts should work. You need to also get a quart of intestinal fortitude as well to drill that pilot hole!  Once that is done, you're committed and it will get done!

Hopefully you'll document your project and show us pic's!

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Hi guys, I am from germany and drive an 2007 Edge AWD. 

 

My PTU is also leaking, but my englisch is not as good as it should be, so maybe I didn't understood everything right. 

 

Do just have to drill a drain plug into the PTU and change the oil frequently and it stops to leak? 

 

Does it also work if my PTU is already leaking?

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On 4/22/2019 at 5:57 PM, CivicSi907 said:

Hi guys, I am from germany and drive an 2007 Edge AWD. 

 

My PTU is also leaking, but my englisch is not as good as it should be, so maybe I didn't understood everything right. 

 

Do just have to drill a drain plug into the PTU and change the oil frequently and it stops to leak? 

 

Does it also work if my PTU is already leaking?

No, you'll need to correct the leak, and while doing that it would be a good opportunity to add the drain plug, then do frequent oil changes.

 

Hopefully damage hasn't occurred yet, other than the seal.

Edited by 1004ron
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If the leak is ONLY from the vent, yes, there is a chance.  If it however is from one of the 3 seals around the PTU, seal replacement is necessary.  If that seal is the transmission to PTU seal, you will be faced with the question of replacing the PTU, as the labor is the same to either replace the seal or replace the seal AND the PTU.

 

Drilling the drain plug is simply a way to make fluid changes easier.

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What does the vent look like and where it is? Any pictures of it?

 

If its one of the three seals, I have to take out the PTU and replace the seals?

 

Whats the part# for the seals? Can't find it on rockauto.com

 

 

Edited by CivicSi907

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Mine doesn't a vent line as some newer ones do but has what I call a 'jiggly valve' on top of the PTU - similar to what I have on my GMC Envoy rear axle to vent the pressure. It is a little 1/2" thing (for lack of a better word sorry) that screws into the PTU. Installed in the vehicle, you can feel it if you reach up around the top of the PTU. I couldn't take mine out and really couldn't see it. If the goo in the PTU is puking out that vent, then replacing the oil in the PTU a number of times, might help your situation.

Mine looks something like this:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-NISSAN-REAR-AXLE-REPLACEMENT-BREATHER-TUBE/282540044556?hash=item41c8b2f10c:g:3XEAAOxyLchRr7HE&vxp=mtr 

 

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8T4Z-7275-CC is the seal kit referred to by TSB 09-25-7 regarding leaks affecting the PTU.  It contains PTU cover seal, intermediate shaft seal, alignment washer, deflector, and seal protector.  You can also buy seals individually as kits for each location, such as listed here:

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2007-ford-edge/transmission-external-components.html

 

The rear output flange seal kit (PTU-driveshaft) is separate from the kit above

Kit
Kit - Seal

SEAL, OIL - REAR OUTPUT FLANGE , Includes Pinion Nut And Radial Pinion Seal

Base Number: 7275A
Callout Name: 7275A
Replaced by: GB5Z-7275-A
$15.48
$10.78
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On 4/23/2019 at 12:31 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

If the leak is ONLY from the vent, yes, there is a chance.  If it however is from one of the 3 seals around the PTU, seal replacement is necessary.  If that seal is the transmission to PTU seal, you will be faced with the question of replacing the PTU, as the labor is the same to either replace the seal or replace the seal AND the PTU.

 

Drilling the drain plug is simply a way to make fluid changes easier.

 

If  the "transmission to PTU" seal is faulty, could the PTU be repaired or is the PTU damaged and not reuseable again? Or could it be reused after cleaning and changing all seals and refilling new oil, I think 75w-140, right?

Edited by CivicSi907

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In the absence of whining or grinding type noises, the PTU is reusable.  You would want to flush it thoroughly though before you put it back in place.  The question is, since it is out of the vehicle, you can't drive it around or turn the wheels to help with the flush.  So while it is on the bench, best you can do is either a) fill to the bottom of the fill plug hole, drain, repeat, then final fill, OR b) pry the vent off carefully with a screwdriver, use that as a fill hole, and use the fill hole as a drain hole, run at least 32 ounces of fluid out the drain hole, reinstall the vent.  Then reinstall.

 

Some have taken the PTU apart to take a look. It is not a terrible job if you are mechanically inclined.  FordTechMakuloco has a video on his channel on YT on what it looks like inside. 

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2010 3.5L

 

My fingers cannot reach the drain plug but a 3/8" ratchet can. So removal wouldn't be an issue. But how do I put it back? I can somehow bring the drain plug to the mouth of the hole, but how do I turn it for initial thread engagement? Is there a special tool or trick you guys have figured out already? Thank you.

 

EDIT: The question was hasty. I was able to access from the rear. By the way, about 1/3 cup came out when sucked with a hand pump but 1 cup went in. Does the system lose that much oil? No leak at the rear shaft, side shaft, or the gasket joint. Not even wet.

Edited by paker

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I thought that the 2010 didn't have a drain plug.

 

You'll find a lot more info in the existing threads on this topic -

 

 

Edited by 1004ron
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I used the wrong word. I should have said oil level check plug. Thank you for the link. 

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After reading multiple posts and watching "mact" videos, I am now convinced that adding a drain plug is the better long term solution. So here is my question for those who drilled/tapped the aluminum case. How thin/thick is the case? Is it thick enough to get 2 or 3 threads? Thank you.

Edited by paker

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4 hours ago, paker said:

After reading multiple posts and watching "mact" videos, I am now convinced that adding a drain plug is the better long term solution. So here is my question for those who drilled/tapped the aluminum case. How thin/thick is the case? Is it thick enough to get 2 or 3 threads? Thank you.

At least 3 to 4 threads - you'll find all that info in the thread I previously posted, and better off asking any additional questions there (why create a new thread on the same topic?).

 

Edit: See that the same topic threads were merged.

 

 

Edited by 1004ron

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Hi all,

 

New here. have an opportunity to get a 2010 AWD Edge from the local towing/recovery shop for what I feel like is a steal. My parents have a 2007 2wd and it is great for them. I am getting older myself now and have decided the Fusion is just too low to the ground for my knees these days.

 

Place that has it claims it has a bad "transfer" case (These are "good ol boys" so I assume they are talking about the PTU) Was researching into how difficult it was to change and found this forum/thread. I am pretty mechanically inclined, have plenty of tools at my disposal, but no doubt will probably need to buy the seal tooling.

 

Is 2,000$ a decent price for 120,000 miles 2010 AWD Edge knowing i'll have to buy the ~600$ PTU? Body is straight and clean, no codes, no other obvious issues.

 

Thanks!

Jelly
 

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13 hours ago, Jelly said:

Hi all,

 

New here. have an opportunity to get a 2010 AWD Edge from the local towing/recovery shop for what I feel like is a steal. My parents have a 2007 2wd and it is great for them. I am getting older myself now and have decided the Fusion is just too low to the ground for my knees these days.

 

Place that has it claims it has a bad "transfer" case (These are "good ol boys" so I assume they are talking about the PTU) Was researching into how difficult it was to change and found this forum/thread. I am pretty mechanically inclined, have plenty of tools at my disposal, but no doubt will probably need to buy the seal tooling.

 

Is 2,000$ a decent price for 120,000 miles 2010 AWD Edge knowing i'll have to buy the ~600$ PTU? Body is straight and clean, no codes, no other obvious issues.

 

Thanks!

Jelly
 

 

Welcome to the forum!  This is recommended reading:

 

 

Here is a website that details and chronicles the repairs and trials and tribulations of one of the most helpful forum members you can find. 

 

MACT GARAGE!

 

 

Edited by onyxbfly
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