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Transmission Fluid change.

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On 6/2/2020 at 6:06 PM, 14AWD3.5 said:

Back again. Borrowed a set of ramps (actually were old style steel and really too high, probably 9-10’” of lift), the pan was tilted backwards so I backed the car down 1/2 way on the ramps, chocked the rear tires and that leveled it out.  Then pulled the trans plug bolt. That’s a small bolt, fooled me (7/16” I think).  I was expecting a lot larger, like 5/8 maybe.  
Then drained 5 qts, I only had 4 qts of Mercon LV but found 1 qt of Mercon L from a p steering fluid change so in it went.  
I should be about 85-90% changed now, this is easier once you have the ramps figured out. And it is still cheaper than the dealer.

I will just make by own 2x8”or 2x10” wood ramps, a lot lower height though.

Not wise to mix the fluid types.

 

https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid#:~:text=Mercon LV—the latest Ford,used to replace those fluids.

Quote

Mercon LV—the latest Ford ATF, it is factory fill in 2008 and later Fords. The LV stands for "low viscosity." It is a fully synthetic ATF. It is not compatible with earlier Mercon fluids, so it should neither be mixed with Mercon or Mercon V used to replace those fluids. It is not compatible with any other fluid, either.

 

I don't believe that only one Drain-Fill gives you 85-90% change - how did you arrive at those numbers.

 

I would not climb under a vehicle while is half way up the ramps.

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Regarding the 85-90% statement, I had already siphoned out multiple quarts so by draining from the pan bolt that made something like 15 qts having been drained and refilled.

 

As far as the ramps, they were some industrial version (as opposed to the WalMart variety) from the auto mechanic across the street.  It was all I could do do to lift and carry one of them at a time. 
 

Mixing fluid, well, guess I’m no purist.  A 1/12 qt ratio doesn’t really bother me. It’s being redrained from the bolt within a month anyway.

 

But I do appreciate all your concerns.  I’m more concerned with the power steering pump whine I now get since I siphoned out and refilled 3x (after bleeding).  The whine won’t go away.  Maybe it takes after its owner, I dunno’.

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how should i go about doing this

 

A. drain and fill once, and leave it (so i drain like 5qt with a warm trans, then fill with 5 qt) and just do this each 30k miles

 

B. drain out as much as i can, fill the amount that was drained (so i drain 5qt, fill 5qt), and drive the car to warm the trans up and repeat until ive drained out ~12qt

 

ive seen mixed opinions. this is a car with 146k miles and i have NO clue when the trans fluid was last changed, but it's brown now and definitely needs changing. but besides that, is there another way i should go about doing this?

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13 hours ago, 1004ron said:

 

i appreciate it but i havent really been able to find a clear answer. i have the '10 with a dipstick.

i think i am just going to drain and fill sometime next week, give it a few months and repeat until i've exchanged all the fluid. but i wont do it all at once, maybe like a month in between. thats all im getting from these threads. fluid is pretty brown, idk about the smell. also to the mod who moved my post i appreciate it, i didnt find this thread when searchin lol but its very helpful

 

it is slipping ocasionally so i do not wanna risk making it worse by exchanging all 12qt of fluid in one day. this slipping is only when its cold and it's usually just once per drive. ive never had it happen more than once. im hoping its nothing worse than that...

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On 11/20/2022 at 8:30 PM, Sjej said:

...havent really been able to find a clear answer

...'10 with a dipstick

...going to drain and fill  ...repeat until i've exchanged all the fluid  ..wont do it all at once, maybe like a month in between

...fluid is pretty brown  ...slipping ocasionally so i do not wanna risk making it worse by exchanging all 12qt of fluid.

Your plan sounds reasonable; I would drain+refill at least 4 times to get rid of that old brown ATF.

Draining+filling Tranny on these is easy+quick; definitely should be done every 4yrs\33kMiles.

Recommend using a premium FullSynthetic MerconV compatible ATF like AmsOil# SSMVS.ATF1g.

Consider using 1qt of Lucas Transmission Fix.

Also consider disconnecting battery for 15min, then reconnecting & driving conservatively to let PCM relearn tranny shift points.

 

Edited by DILLARD000
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On 4/8/2020 at 2:23 PM, Cerberus said:

I had a similar problem with slotted rotors on my old 2011 Fusion sport.

I figured out that it was the slotting of the rotor that was causing the noise, it sounded somewhat like a bad wheel bearing or flat spotted tire but only while on the brakes.

Don't be surprised if the new ones do the same thing..

 

You're right, the new replacement rotors did the same and I stuck it out longer than I should have and now have solid high carbon rotors and very happy with them.

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9 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Your plan sounds reasonable; I would drain+refill at least 4 times to get rid of that old brown ATF.

Draining+filling Tranny on these is easy+quick; definitely should be done every 4yrs\33kMiles.

Recommend using a premium FullSynthetic MerconV compatible ATF like AmsOil# SSMVS.ATF1g.

Consider using 1qt of Lucas Transmission Fix.

Also consider disconnecting battery for 15min, then reconnecting & driving conservatively to let PCM relearn tranny shift points.

 

 

thank you, i will do so

i use full synthetic, expensive but worth it to me. what does the transmission fix do?

i also did disconnect the battery when installing a new intake the other day. no slipping since then, should i still do it each time i drain & fill?

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14 hours ago, Sjej said:

 

thank you, i will do so

i use full synthetic, expensive but worth it to me. what does the transmission fix do?

i also did disconnect the battery when installing a new intake the other day. no slipping since then, should i still do it each time i drain & fill?

LucasTransmissionFix basicly is a viscocity additive; silightly thickens the ATF which helps transmission shift smoother\quicker.

Click here for YouTube test of LTF; have seen several of this guys product reviews, seems honest enough.

It's a judgement call; if the new ATF & BatteryReset has fixed problem to your satisfaction, I'd probably not use the Lucas; easy enough to add later.

No, don't reset the Battery every time; if the shift points are where you like them, leave it alone.

Edited by DILLARD000

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7 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

LucasTransmissionFix basicly is a viscocity additive; silightly thickens the ATF which helps transmission shift smoother\quicker.

Click here for YouTube test of LTF; have seen several of this guys product reviews, seems honest enough.

It's a judgement call; if the new ATF & BatteryReset has fixed problem to your satisfaction, I'd probably not use the Lucas; easy enough to add later.

No, don't reset the Battery every time; if the shift points are where you like them, leave it alone.

Ok good to know. I’m gonna go do my first drain and fill and disconnect the battery then take it on a test drive. If any slipping occurs with new fluid I will try the transmission fix

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