2012 Ford Edge Limited Battery message

[Edgingage]

Handfiler, thanks a lot for your info and suggestions.  Yes, I also thought that the CTEKs are priced too high, but I knew nothing about these type of tools; I couldn't judge.

 

I'm currently looking at the Mroinge maintainer you suggest: Mroinge MBC055. I am also looking since yesterday at another brand that looks very similar in functions, at the exact same price: MOTOPOWER MP00207.  They're both selling for CAD $43.99, and I think they both do pretty much the exact same thing.  Now, for the helpful crowd (all of you folks), and as a future reference, I'm going to summarized bellow the main differences I've learned (thanks to you, folks) and I've found between them:

.- The Mroinge MBC055 has in its specifications a warning reading: "IMPORTANT: When you select the charging mode, you must disconnect the battery".  I don't know how true or necessary that is, but if so I wouldn't want to do that.

.- The MOTOPOWER MP00207, besides doing almost all the same, it also has a battery recovery mode which, IF i understood correctly from everything that has been discussed and/or suggested in this thread, it's a Repair mode for sulfated batteries (and, again, IF I understood correctly, I think that's the main feature folks here are recommending to have in a smart charger for old batteries, ...like mine

 

So, a few hours taking from your brains and other few hours reading from the net have made me learn something new (to me), and useful.

 

If I interpreted the gathered and discussed info correctly, and nobody has other corrections, objections or suggestions, I'll be ordering the Motopower MP00207 soon.  Please let me know if something is not correct.  Hopefully this tool will indirectly take the battery message away for a long time, if not for good.

 

I REALLY thank you ALL for your time sharing your knowledge and experience, and providing helpful info, hints and suggestions.

Edited April 17, 2020 by Edgingage

[Edgingage]

2 hours ago, akirby said:

That’s not a maintenance charger - it has multiple modes including  battery reconditioning.  And it’s only $93 US.

 

Akirby, I can't get it shipped to Canada.  Here that's the price they sell it for (CAD $205.05), unfortunately

Edited April 17, 2020 by Edgingage

[handfiler]

1 hour ago, Edgingage said:

Handfiler, thanks a lot for your info and suggestions.  Yes, I also thought that the CTEKs are priced too high, but I knew nothing about these type of tools; I couldn't judge.

 

I'm currently looking at the Mroinge maintainer you suggest: Mroinge MBC055. I am also looking since yesterday at another brand that looks very similar in functions, at the exact same price: MOTOPOWER MP00207.  They're both selling for CAD $43.99, and I think they both do pretty much the exact same thing.  Now, for the helpful crowd (all of you folks), and as a future reference, I'm going to summarized bellow the main differences I've learned (thanks to you, folks) and I've found between them:

.- The Mroinge MBC055 has in its specifications a warning reading: "IMPORTANT: When you select the charging mode, you must disconnect the battery".  I don't know how true or necessary that is, but if so I wouldn't want to do that.

.- The MOTOPOWER MP00207, besides doing almost all the same, it also has a battery recovery mode which, IF i understood correctly from everything that has been discussed and/or suggested in this thread, it's a Repair mode for sulfated batteries (and, again, IF I understood correctly, I think that's the main feature folks here are recommending to have in a smart charger for old batteries, ...like mine

 

So, a few hours taking from your brains and other few hours reading from the net have made me learn something new (to me), and useful.

 

If I interpreted the gathered and discussed info correctly, and nobody has other corrections, objections or suggestions, I'll be ordering the Motopower MP00207 soon.  Please let me know if something is not correct.

 

I REALLY thank you ALL for your time sharing your knowledge and experience, and providing helpful info, hints and suggestions.

 With regard to the Mroinge, the translation leaves a bit to be desired. The proper procedure for function selection is to power up the unit then select the required function and then connect it the battery. Once connected to the battery the selection is locked until you disconnect.

[Chipster]

I'll throw in my .2 worth and just suggest a Battery Tender. Because of my infrequent use of my 2016 Ti I had encountered  low voltage conditions several times early in my ownership experience. In the first instance Ford replaced the battery. Maybe it was bad, maybe not, I can't say. I do know the issue returned again several months later and I just started keeping the vehicle plugged into a Battery Tender and have never had another problem. I just think this vehicle does too much thinking after it is turned off and become an insomniac gobbling up voltage like a wino thirsting after that last drop of Mad Dog. The Battery Tender is a smart float charger and it doesn't do anything more than keep your battery voltage topped off. (at least that is all mine does) I used them for years on motorcycles, boats and cars and it has always worked well and are priced right (read cheap). The only draw back is that you have to remember it is plugged in. They come with quick connects so they are a breeze to use! Good luck with whatever you use.

Edited April 17, 2020 by Chipster

[handfiler]

1 hour ago, Chipster said:

I'll throw in my .2 worth and just suggest a Battery Tender. Because of my infrequent use of my 2016 Ti I had encountered  low voltage conditions several times early in my ownership experience. In the first instance Ford replaced the battery. Maybe it was bad, maybe not, I can't say. I do know the issue returned again several months later and I just started keeping the vehicle plugged into a Battery Tender and have never had another problem. I just think this vehicle does too much thinking after it is turned off and become an insomniac gobbling up voltage like a wino thirsting after that last drop of Mad Dog. The Battery Tender is a smart float charger and it doesn't do anything more than keep your battery voltage topped off. (at least that is all mine does) I used them for years on motorcycles, boats and cars and it has always worked well and are priced right (read cheap). The only draw back is that you have to remember it is plugged in. They come with quick connects so they are a breeze to use! Good luck with whatever you use.

 

Solid advice.The 10 year warranty is exceptional.

[akirby]

On 4/17/2020 at 12:13 AM, Edgingage said:

 

Akirby, I can't get it shipped to Canada.  Here that's the price they sell it for (CAD $205.05), unfortunately

 

I was just pointing out that it's expensive because it does a lot more than just maintain a charge like a battery tender.   I don't know why it's so expensive in canada but I think I bought mine for $75 a few years ago which isn't expensive at all to me (here in the states).

[Edgingage]

Hello all:

 

Just to let you know that I haven't gotten lost...  I was gathering a few tools and doing some preliminary checks/tests.  I'm planning to complete the tests this weekend and will report back at the beginning of this coming week.  Some info may be interesting for the Canadian marketers (like me

 

For now, I just want to let everyone know that Akirby is damn right about the root cause: the battery.  I want to acknowledge that, and thank Akirby for his patience and perseverance!!

 

Meanwhile, I need a little bit more help from anyone to complete my tests, and please excuse my dumb questions:

I need you folks to look back in the previous page (1) at my post dated April 15 with a picture showing the battery currently on my vehicle: Ford Motorcraft Tested Tough Max BXT-65-850.  I would appreciate it if anyone can please confirm what type of battery that is (again, sorry for my dumb request).  I read and read but get VERY confused as I understand that one type of battery can also be another type of battery...  Anyway, my questions for help are:

.- is it valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) battery?  Probably this is it, not only because it appears to be the most commonly used battery but also because it has a Reserve Capacity of 150 min, and what I understand from my readings is that RC pertains to lead-acid batteries only (but I may be completely wrong).

.- is it wet-cell or flooded battery?  Sometimes I think to understand from my readings that wet-cell/flooded/lead-acid batteries are all the same type, one requires water top up, and the other type is maintenance free.  But maybe I'm wrong.

.- is it deep-cycle battery?  No idea what this is, but I don't think mine is.

.- is it dry-cell? (AGM or gel)?  As far as Omar302 knows, mine is not an AGM battery, but I got the impression he was not 100% sure (and I'm sorry if I got the wrong impression, Omar).  Can anyone please confirm it is not?  Can anyone please tell me what type it is then?

.- if my battery is one of the commonly used wet-cell lead-acid battery, is it a maintenance free or I should remove the two small rectangular caps at the top and top up/refill it with de-ionized water?

.- if my battery is not a wet-cell lead-acid battery, what is it?  Can I recondition/restore my battery if is not a wet-cell lead-acid battery, or reconditioning/restoring is applicable only to wet-cell lead-acid batteries?

.- regardless of the type of battery I have (thanks in advance) can I recondition/restore the battery still in the car or I need to remove the battery from the car for the reconditioning/restoring process?

 

As you can see, I am a FULL ignorant about batteries.  My questions look (are) redundant because I go in circles trying to answer those questions myself and, again, I find confusing to clearly disseminate among different types of batteries.

 

So, please, be patience, ...and condescending

 

Thank you all in advance.

Edited April 25, 2020 by Edgingage

[akirby]

Regular lead acid battery.  You should remove the caps and add distilled water as needed, then you can try reconditioning - no need to remove it from the vehicle or disconnect it.  But my experience is it will only buy you a few months.

[Edgingage]

Thank you Akirby!

 

I just removed the caps.  Fluid levels were not that bad, I think; all six cells had the fluid level above plates.  I watched a YouTube video and topped the cells up to the bottom edge of the round plastic opening coming down; hope it's ok.

 

I'll continue and finish the testing this weekend.

 

Million thanks!

Edited April 25, 2020 by Edgingage

[Gmandude]

I switched mine to an AGM and haven’t had any issues so far (1000 or so miles).

[Booger_2021_03_03]

I would like to point out that when using a battery tender, connect the negative to a metal part of the car, not the battery.  Normally I would just go to the negative terminal, but in this car if you do that you are bypassing BMS (the sensor on the negative battery cable).  Now if for some reason you want to bypass BMS current monitoring, then yes connect your battery tender directly to the negative battery terminal.

[union111]

On 4/16/2020 at 5:44 PM, bac2010 said:

have seen people, primarily on the F150 forums, somehow disabling BMS.

You can disable BSM using Forscan. Be in the Service functions menu > BdyCM BSM reset.

However, in our cars the battery type is specified by default AGM 80Ah 700CCA. But the AGM battery charging algorithm is different from the acid battery charging. This is how we get the wrong charge when using acid batteries.

I assume this setting as built BCM 726-04-01.

If we can change the battery type, all problems will be solved.

[enigma-2]

Wife's battery in her car started failing last month. Jumped and started but didn't charge enough while driving so I put it on the CTEK charger (I have the older 56-864 charger).

 

Changed it to the AGM setting (charges standard flooded better in cold weather, voltage steps up to 14.7 volts) and left it go through its 8 cycles. Took nearly 14 hours. Battery came back -if- she drove a trip of a few miles or more. Start and stop left it without sufficient reserve. (Car is getting a new battery as I write this). 

 

Thought about popping it out, top it off with distilled water and add some Epsom salts, but ...... I'm lazy. So new battery. ?

 

[bac2010]

I ended up replacing my 3 year old AGM with a lead acid battery.  AGM still charged and BA7 said it was rated good - but where it used to be OK for a month after charging in the winter, now it was giving me the "battery saver message" almost every other day.  My original battery was lead acid for the 2011 Edge and never had this problem with similar lead acid replacements.  We'll see how this one does.