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Condensation in the taillight's and light bar

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2 hours ago, 1004ron said:




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9 minutes ago, sme819 said:


Not sure how to answer that?

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On 3/24/2020 at 1:00 PM, Engr146 said:

Maybe that's why they eliminated the full tail lights on 2019 ,now has a black plate across rear hatch.


Maybe...but you know what?... I had a '16 Titanium with the lighted full width taillights and when I sold it to buy my '19 Titanium, at first I was disappointed not to have them anymore but now, I wouldn't want to go back to the full width 'cause I now prefer the new taillights from '19 and up. Also my Edge is black so the "black plate" blends in very well and goes practically unnoticed and look like it's part of the body.:2thumbs:


DSCN5834 2.jpg

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On 6/13/2019 at 4:13 PM, davidceder said:

...If Ford wont help the rep and I think the best course of action is to drill two small holes on the very edge where the water is puddling. This will help the water drain and maybe help the moister to evaporate. I can caulk the holes with silicon caulk and if it happens again just pop out the caulking. What do you guys think? Even if I spent the $1300.00 it would just happen again. 


I had a similar issue not on my 2011 Edge but in a 2004 Chrysler Intrepid, in (only) one of the front lamps.  I solved that problem excactly as Davidceder suggests.  This is my experience on this issue:


I used a 3/16" drill bit (if I remember correctly) and drilled two small holes as low as possible in the light casing but as safely as possible off the body paint (put a rag/cloth/tape for extra protection of the paint): drilled one hole to the closest point to the center of the car, and the other hole the farthest away towards the outside of the car, basically the farthest two points in the lower part of the light casing.  In this way, the aerodynamic action of the air will act as a syphon.  Now, as I mentioned, I had the problem in only one lamp and therefore I drilled the affected lamp only.  Well, the effect was so beneficial that the drilled lamp eventually looked way better, nicer and brighter than the one that had no condensation inside.  That's how effective drilling those holes was.   I then drilled the other casing, ...just to get it even ;)


I want to add: before I drilled the holes, I was scared, concerned that I was just going to make the problem worse, thinking that maybe when driving under the rain, or under a car (pressure) watch more water will penetrate in the casing to make things worse.  Nop, no noticeable water ever got through those small drilled holes; condensation was gone for good, lamp was always dry and bright since then.


And the last thing I want to add is, the reason for that condensation to occur it is because there is a faulty seal somewhere around the light casing that is allowing the humid air to enter, get trapped and then condensates.  It's a Physics thing that I can't explain properly, but it's basically a manufacturing defect (not a manufacturing "design", as Ford is trying to justify).


Last but not least: do not spend a whole lot of time trying to figure out the weather conditions causing that lamp condensation; you'll go nowhere on that route.  And even though you might eventually find that that happens "X" amount of hours before, during or after "Y" air temp combined with "Z" relative humidity, etc., you can predict but can't control the weather, so, it doesn't matter.  Before I drilled the holes, I also did all those things: park outside the garage, inside the garage, check on rainy days, on sunny days, on foggy days, etc.. it didn't matter, it was out of my control no matter what I did or try to do, ...until I drilled the holes ;)


Good luck, folks.


PS: I never caulked/plugged/closed the holes back; not needed.


PS2: Funny... I just remember that the person who suggested me to do so several years ago on my Chrysler is a friend of mine and, coincidentally, ...a Ford Certified Mechanic ;)

Edited by Edgingage
Correcting bit size; PS2.
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