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Xtra

Cold Air Intake Edge ST & Sport 2.7EB

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I could not wait to finish there was an hour or so of light left so I went for it .. As you can see in the photo i finished at dusk 06/22/21. 

 

Both molds are now complete and ready to make some parts.   !!:happyfeet: 

1171815266_V3molds062221JPGcopy.thumb.jpg.218204ffbe3839d40011d8a425a8d160.jpg

It took a lot of work, research and learning about vacuum forming tools to get to this point of the project, and it feels good to see those 2 molds sitting there...Next is to test the parts they make, hope the molds don't need refining, and if everything checks out, move into the next phase of the project. 

 

:ford:

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Recently retired after 40 years in manufacturing engineering. Did some pressure die cast and injection mold design work over the years, hence my keen interest in this thread. 👍

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3 hours ago, handfiler said:

Recently retired after 40 years in manufacturing engineering. Did some pressure die cast and injection mold design work over the years, hence my keen interest in this thread. 👍

That's fantastic, I wish I had access to technology like you work with, I am just winging it, and learning as I go. .  die casting or injection molding of these things I am making would take them to the next level.  I can dream.  

To be honest, I worry if the molds I made will work.  Did I drill enough vacuum holes?  Did I place them correctly?   Will the part release?  Are the draft angles correct?  Will the parts even fit?  

The only way to know is to go for it.   We will find out in the next couple weeks.

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3 hours ago, Xtra said:

To be honest, I worry if the molds I made will work.  Did I drill enough vacuum holes?  Did I place them correctly?   Will the part release?  Are the draft angles correct?  Will the parts even fit?  

The only way to know is to go for it.   We will find out in the next couple weeks.

 

Yeah, go for it! I remember doing some vacuum moulding when I was at school in the 70s. It worked quite well if I remember rightly but can't remember at all what we did to make it happen!

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Finally found screws for the latch. First I looked at Shoulder bolts, but the cost was prohibitive at $7 to $15 each. I did not want to use machine screws and have a threaded axle. What I found was SS Binding Post Screws. Though they cost more than plain machine screws at $1.50 each, they are affordable and offer a smooth axel for the latch. They are perfect, exactly what was needed. 

 

The barrel diameter of the stainless steel binding post is spot on, and the latch moves freely without slop. 

IMG_7644.JPG

 

 

The barrel length is also spot on and could not be better, as the threads are even with the outside edge edge of the bracket.. 

IMG_7643.JPG

 

 

The barrel of the binding post provides a smooth axle for the latch. 

IMG_7642.JPG

 

 

 There is some wiggle room that allows it to compensate for any variances. I did this intentionally. 

IMG_7648.JPG

 

 

 

I will probably make these myself as they are simple enough, and it will help control cost. I will clean them up some compared to this prototype.  

The low profile screw heads give a slick finish, and thread lock will keep them together. 

 

The finished latch

IMG_7649.JPG

 

Two of these latches will help hold the top half of the V3 to the adaptor. Each side of the adaptor will require a different specialized part that will allow it to clamp together the V3 top half to the OEM bottom half.  There are four different parts needed, (1) a latch, (2) a catch, (3) a gate and (4) nubs

I have the latch, one down, three to go. 

:ford:

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This is a shoulder bolt, my first idea. They are super expensive, have large heads that stick out, and require locking nuts.

 

                                           Shoulder Bolt

                                         images-1.jpeg

 

 

 

The SS Binding Post's low profile heads, low cost, perfect axel diameter and length ended up being the way to go. I found something that could not be any better.

 

 

 SS Binding Posts. I can get a bag of these for the price of one Shoulder Bolt.

BINDING POST .JPG

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I dropped off the two molds at the plastic shop today and ordered one test part from each mold. The shop pointed out a mistake I had made on one of the molds, one spot was about 0.030 inch off. Not very much, but that 0.030 could keep the mold from releasing the part. Because it is off so little, the shop and I decided to try it anyway and see what happens, it could be just fine. 

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21 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

jeez about the gap of the sport spark plug!

It is amazing how accurate these molds need to be. I make them a tiny bit larger than needed then sand them down to size finishing it with 1200 grit wet sand and then polish to a gloss. When I remove too much I add fiberglass to build it up then sand it down again. It took me several weeks to make the adapter mold,  a simple rectangular shape. To think something as small as a spark plug gap can cause problems helps explain why it takes so much time. 
I have tons of respect for old time sculptures that worked in marble. If they took off to much material they could not add anything to fix it. They had to get it right on the first try. 

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Don't feel bad.  We look at the final product, a result of years, if not decades of experience, doing the same thing over and over again.  You are a sculptor in your own right.

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I got prices from the plastic shop today.  To mold one adaptor it is going to cost me  $134.68. To mold one patch it is going to cost me $129.21. Total of $263.89 just to test the molds and see if they work :drop:.  Heck, the parts may not fit, or the molds may need modifying. If that happens then another round of prototypes must be made.  I tell you this to give an idea of some of the costs incurred developing the V3. I also have a very large stack of receipts that i won't even get into. The parts still have to be cut out, trimmed, finished, latches , catches and other parts have to be fabricated and mounted. It is a long process, but testing the molds and getting them working properly is a major step forward, and I will be very happy when that part of the project is accomplished. 

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20 hours ago, Xtra said:

I got prices from the plastic shop today.  To mold one adaptor it is going to cost me  $134.68. To mold one patch it is going to cost me $129.21. Total of $263.89 just to test the molds and see if they work :drop:.  Heck, the parts may not fit, or the molds may need modifying. If that happens then another round of prototypes must be made.  I tell you this to give an idea of some of the costs incurred developing the V3. I also have a very large stack of receipts that i won't even get into. The parts still have to be cut out, trimmed, finished, latches , catches and other parts have to be fabricated and mounted. It is a long process, but testing the molds and getting them working properly is a major step forward, and I will be very happy when that part of the project is accomplished. 

 

Would you be open to crowd funding? It doesn't have to be any like a gofundme page etc. I can't speak for every member but I feel that I can honestly say that you're working for the collective good of the community!  I would donate! Perhaps I'm alone in this but you may be pleasantly surprised if the option is available! Just a thought!

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10 hours ago, onyxbfly said:

 

Would you be open to crowd funding? It doesn't have to be any like a gofundme page etc. I can't speak for every member but I feel that I can honestly say that you're working for the collective good of the community!  I would donate! Perhaps I'm alone in this but you may be pleasantly surprised if the option is available! Just a thought!

I would too!

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Wow ! i don't know what to say, but thank you everyone for your support. I did not post about the development costs to complain or ask for funds. This offer is a complete surprise, and to know that I have this kind of support is amazing. Although your offer is most generous I will have to decline at this time , but too know you guys are there for me if I do need some help with this project in the future is reassuring. Thanks you all :hat_tip: 

 

And now a progress report to follow:

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 Today I used my drill press as an overhead mill, I had the correct bits and a drill press vice that I used as the table. The results are good enough to produce prototype parts that should be made by CNC or with a proper mill.

what  I did was to make the "Gate: for lack of another word, for the adaptor.  The latches and the gate hold the top half of the intake to the adaptor. 

 

The gate slots are milled and it still needs to be cut to the finished shape.

IMG_7677.JPG

 

 

 

This is how the gate works to hold the top half to the adaptor. The ends need to be trimmed and rivet holes need to be drilled. 

IMG_7681.JPG

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Today I was at the plastic shop and the parts are scheduled to be molded by the end of next week or the beginning of the week after. So I it would be good to get all the parts made for the adaptor by then. 

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I hope that everyone had a great 4th of July and are enjoying this long Independence Day weekend. 

 

Although I have posted photos of the V3 air filter before in this thread there was nothing to show the scale of just how large it is,  these two photos should help.

I obtained a OEM air box at the start of this project to help create the adaptor. These photos show the V3 filter compared to the stock air box. 

 

 

I think the V3 filter should flow more air than OEM with less resistance. What do you think? 

V3 FILTER.JPG

 

The  V3 filter dwarfs the OEM air box. B)

FILTER FOR V3.JPG

 

 

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Using my drill press as a vertical mill with a cross slide vice and an end mill bit to make the slots for the gate.

IMG_7723.JPG

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    When the 2.7EB is WOT at 6,000 RPM. The engine is spinning at 100 Revolutions Per Second. Each revaluation uses 2.7 L of air ( not counting boost ) so.. multiply 2.7 L X 100RPS and you get 270 Liters of air per second moving through the intake and into the air box at 6,000RPM . 
That’s a lot of air 

 

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are we going to need a tune or running both stock of them on a stock tune be fine? I cant wait for this to go on sale. Ive help on my mods waiting for this 🤤

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6 hours ago, MiamiHaze said:

are we going to need a tune or running both stock of them on a stock tune be fine? 

Good question, I don’t know if you have to have a tune with the V2&3 both installed.  The V2 runs fine with a stock tune & no one has a V3 yet.  I do know that a custom tune would extract the most from them.  Hope this helps answer your question. 

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