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Cold Air Intake Edge ST & Sport 2.7EB


Xtra

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Just returned from the welder and the elbows welded fine. That is great news as these elbows cost half as much as the ones I used to fabricate my Elbow Reducers.

 

 

I just ordered enough of these mandrel bent elbows to build all ten Reducers. 

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Tack welded the Sensor Brackets as well. 

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Edited by Xtra
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Managed to do some work on the lower half today. I made the cutout for the Bottom Patch, and removed of all the excess parts.

Lean and mean. Next step is to cutout the area for the Snorkel Adaptor. 

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Test fitting the Bottom Patches, they are not attached yet. 

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Edited by Xtra
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20 hours ago, onyxbfly said:

 

A penny for your thoughts......care to share?  What did you have in mind?  It may be to the benefit of everyone that is interested in the airbox. 

 

Well right now nothing to discuss as it is in my mind and not so much on paper. I don't like to say anything about stuff I do until I follow through with it. Otherwise I look like the fool, I hope you all understand. Don't worry, I will share. 

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52 minutes ago, TT Steve said:

 

Well right now nothing to discuss as it is in my mind and not so much on paper. I don't like to say anything about stuff I do until I follow through with it. Otherwise I look like the fool, I hope you all understand. Don't worry, I will share. 

 

I can dig it! Completely understandable. Only time will tell, perhaps Xtra may have access to extra parts if one decides to follow through with your concept.

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I have a question/ concern that I haven't seen addressed so here we go. I don't know how far/ low your snorkel runs but have you given any thought to mitigating hydrolock?

 

I know that water repellent filter socks are available but I don't know how much water they will prevent from entering the filter etc.  Am I overthinking this? Is hydrolocking a concern with your design?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by onyxbfly
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This is how the Cleco fasteners are used, they allow me to pre assemble the parts and hold them in place.

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After assembly with the Clecos, I used the heat gun once more to form the patch to the bottom half. 

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Edited by Xtra
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The gasket on the Snorkel Adaptor Plate does its job, but is not an exact fit.  I feel I need to show the warts as well as the beauty. lol. 

I do not believe that these little air gaps will have any adverse effect on the performance of the V3.  If they do bother you, then the snorkel could be sealed to the V3 with a little silicon RTV or even the insulation.  

To give an idea on how small the gap is,  the bolt hole in the flange is a 1/4 in hole and it dwarfs the gap. 

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Edited by Xtra
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On 10/14/2021 at 2:31 PM, onyxbfly said:

I have a question/ concern that I haven't seen addressed so here we go. I don't know how far/ low your snorkel runs but have you given any thought to mitigating hydrolock?

I know that water repellent filter socks are available but I don't know how much water they will prevent from entering the filter etc.  Am I overthinking this? Is hydrolocking a concern with your design?

 

The Bottom Half has water drain holes in it , and the small air gap where the snorkel fits will also allow water to drain if it ever  gets into the system . As the V3 uses the stock OEM route for air it should be as safe as the OEM air box in regards to hydro locking.  Even with the addition of the V2 and V3 together the air pathway is the same as stock so if you forge a river, and it floods the engine, it would have done the same if it was OEM stock.

 

Now to answer the question of the Aux Air intake. Right now I am running the air intake hose above the left front tire.  On top the finder liner and just below the the car hood.  It is not the best place to get air, but it is easy enough to get to, requires  little to no mods and does supply fresh air to the V3. The tip of the hose is above the tire so it would take a lot to have water reach it.  If I were to use the punch out in the front bumper like snmjin did then a valve should be used to prevent hydrolock as the punch out is closer to the ground and splashing water can reach it when going through a foot or less of water. 

 

There is nothing better for reliability than stock. Car manufactures go to extremes to make their cars reliable no mater where they are used. The desert or the mountains the car will work great . The after market addresses this by making the car better for your individual needs. What is gained in one place is often at the expense of another area. Examples... the car is made faster, but milage went down. The car handles better, but the ride is stiffer.  CAI systems are the exception to the rule,  a well designed CAI can increase power and give better milage .. if you can control your lead foot. 

 

I hate this part but.... Now for the small print to save my beans from a litigious society . ...

The V3 is a  custom made race item, and is designed for track use only and not for use on the street ;) . The V3 is defiantly not for off road adventures in the dirt, or for crossing rivers or streams. . The user assumes all liability in its use. 

 

The larger hole is the foot and need to be sealed. The small hole in the corner is for water to drain even if it is just condensation. There are 2 or 3 of these small drain holes in the Bottom Half.   

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Edited by Xtra
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9 hours ago, MichaelBrown said:

What is the cost on one of these airboxes? I'd like to start saving g to order one

I have not set a price yet, but it won't be long now This air box fits the 2015 to 2018  2.7 Edge. I am working to fit the ST as well coming soon. . 

Edited by Xtra
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I have started to rivet and glue the Bottom Half together. The black RTV is messy as heck, but I believe it is the best adhesive to use because it is flexible, heat resistant,  waterproof, and will create an air tight seal that should last for years. 

 

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You can see just how messy the RTV is on the bottom right of this photo. The cosmetics of the patch don't matter as much as getting a good air tight seal. 

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Edited by Xtra
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Now the ugly close ups. .

 

Here you can see just how messy the RTV is. It is very difficult to work with and it gets everywhere. 

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After I attach the Bottom Half Patch with Clecos, I use a heat gun to hand form the patch for a precise fit. 

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What happens is the stretched ABS shrinks when heated, and the nice straight lines end up looking like this,. or worse... No worries though, as it will never be seen, because it will be hidden under the insulation. This is a good example of function before form.  

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Edited by Xtra
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Decided to work on the lids some.

 

 

 

This is the Intake Air Temp Sensor mount installed on the lid. 

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This is the what the mount looks like on the inside of the lid. 

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The sensor has to be modified in order to mount properly. This tab has to be cut off and made flush with the round barrel of the sensor. 

SENSOR TAB TRIM.jpg

Edited by Xtra
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The sensor has an O-ring that seals and holds it in the sensor mount. It is a press fit and may need a little lube or spit to let it slide in.. lol. 

O-RING ON SENSOR.jpg

 

 

The sensor pressed in all the way .

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This is how the sensor looks on the inside of the lid when installed. 

INTERIOR VIEW SENSOR.JPG

Edited by Xtra
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The gasket is attached to the lid, held in place with double sided tape, and is die-cut for a precision fit.  

GASKET.JPG

 

The gasket is made from high density foam and is around 1/4 inch thick to provide a air tight seal. 

CU GASKET.JPG

Edited by Xtra
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