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Should have started this as a new thread, not tagged it to one that is 4 years old ... my bad!

 

I have a 2016 Edge Titanium which appears to have the level 2 trim / integrated backup camera and the very leaky reflector lens cover!

 

Correct level 2 trim part# is: HT4Z-13A565-J

 

Can source a new replacement part state side that will ship, or can source from a more local dealer here in Ontario, but what I don't know is how the tailgate comes apart to re and re this part.  According to our selling dealer it's about 1 hour of shop time. If I knew how to take it apart I'd try checking for leaks and sealing all of the necessary edges first before buying a new part. 

 

Is there a subscriber service for shop manuals or does someone have the pages that describe how to remove and install this part, please?

Center Taillight Lens.jpg

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I fixed mine myself. I had the same issue. There is a forum thread titled Light bar condensation. It’s been roughly 6 months and the reseal around the edge of this part is holding and the part is condensation free. 

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1 hour ago, BigBerky said:

I fixed mine myself. I had the same issue. There is a forum thread titled Light bar condensation. It’s been roughly 6 months and the reseal around the edge of this part is holding and the part is condensation free. 

 

Once you removed the lens assembly, what cleanup did you do before sealing and what type of sealant did you apply?

 

Waiting for cooler weather to take the hatch apart and re-seal the lens assembly.

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I used some alcohol wipes to clean the entire seam all the way around. Make sure you get all the condensation out.There is a plug in the back of the unit where the wires feed through.  I alternated use of a blow dryer and shop vac through the plug hole. Use a good automotive RTV silicone (permatex makes a really good black product).  Apply in a thick bead around where the 2 halves meet and let it cure for at least 24hrs. Silicone takes a while to cure. When putting the light bar back on, be aware of the torque specs. Overtorque will crack the unit. I went through this issue with 2 light bars. I’ll check back in if you have any more questions.

It’s not that difficult. Take your time and do a good job the first time. 

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38 minutes ago, BigBerky said:

.... When putting the light bar back on, be aware of the torque specs. Overtorque will crack the unit. I went through this issue with 2 light bars.  ....

 

I haven't taken a close look at the shop manual pages, but are you saying that there are fasteners (not clips) the hold the light bar in place? 

 

Is "one-half turn passed stripped" a good torque setting?? :) (humor)

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Yup, there are 6 fasteners holding the light bar on. There is a torque pattern when reassembling…starting with the center nuts and moving out.  This is shown in the shop manuals that Haz provided. I hope your light bar will dry out clear. One of mine had condensation as bad as yours an it did clear out decent. It’s definitely worth a shot.
Take care and good luck!

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Will let you know what I discover once the light assembly is removed for inspection.

 

Thanks very much for all the information and advice ... appreciated.

                      

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On 8/9/2021 at 7:17 PM, Haz said:

 

Hi Haz,

 

Just went back over the shop pages included in the links you have shared .... 

 

BigBerky noted that there are sequencing and torque specs for the six fasteners when re and re'ing the light bar assembly.

 

Is there a separate page, or page(s) regarding removing the light bar and properly re-install it (and any components like backup Cam, etc) using a sequence and torque specs?

 

I know I'm asking a lot, but I hope to do this right the first time.

 

Anything you can share would be appreciated.

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It's fair to say that the formatting of the previously posted Workshop Manual procedures diminished their clarity.

 

I've reformatted the documents and I hope the step-by-step instructions for component removal and component re-installation are more understandable.

 

Download links to the reformatted PDF documents are included below, and I've also revised the download links in my earlier post to serve-up the reformatted Workshop Manual PDFs.

 

2016 Edge - Liftgate Interior Trim Panel Removal and Installation - Workshop Manual - Reformatted.pdf (download link)

 

2016 Edge - Exterior Reversing Lamp Assembly Removal and Installation - Workshop Manual - Reformatted.pdf (download link)

 

Good luck!

 

Edited by Haz
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1 hour ago, Haz said:

It's fair to say that the formatting of the previously posted Workshop Manual procedures diminished their clarity.

 

I've reformatted the documents and I hope the step-by-step instructions for component removal and component re-installation are more understandable.

 

Good luck!

 

Haz,

 

Thanks to you and BigBerky I now have the right information to take on this job, now that the cooler weather is here.

 

I really appreciate both of you taking of your time to help me out ...

 

Now one to Job #1 ...

Edited by 2016 Edge Titanium AWD

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Hatch came apart exactly as the shop pages described, but when the interior of the hatch was accessed, it looks quite different than the shop images. The inside looks different than the shop manual pages. (Vehicle was manufactured in Oakville, Ontario in July 2016). The light bar is an integral assembly and includes the license plate lights and the backup Cam.

 

While the shop pages do talk about removing the camera, there is no provision inside that I can see to do this.

 

When I removed the (6) nuts, disconnecting the 3 connectors and pushing the grommet through the hatch sheet metal the light bar appears to be stuck and I'm afraid to force it.

 

Noting the differences between the shop pages and the actual hatch interior, I wonder if I have missed some additional fasteners, or perhaps the light bar is sealed to the hatch sheet metal in some way??

 

I mean really, I work on really old iron all the time, but this Edge has me mystified ... that's a '78 t-bird, my Dad's ...:)

Hatch Inside.jpg

Light Bar - Camera and License Plate Lights.jpg

Tbird on the lift 072720.JPG

Edited by 2016 Edge Titanium AWD

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Hello,

 

You may have to force it a bit to get it to pop loose. Maybe thread a couple of the fasters back on a few threads and apply some pressure from the inside out. There are a couple pop clips retaining the light bar to the gate as well.

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30 minutes ago, BigBerky said:

Hello,

 

You may have to force it a bit to get it to pop loose. Maybe thread a couple of the fasters back on a few threads and apply some pressure from the inside out. There are a couple pop clips retaining the light bar to the gate as well.

 

Rumsfeld said it best, " There are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know.."

 

Right, now back to work!

 

Thanks BigBerky, going in hot once again ... 😂

Edited by 2016 Edge Titanium AWD

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Well Folks, when the weather finally cooled off a bit and it stopped raining I managed to pull the hatch trim off and remove the light bar with assistance from Haz's info and a flurry of PM's with BigBerky to solve some of the 'unknowns'.  When I removed the light bar it was obvious that whatever method was used to seal the lens with the base unit housing had failed in a number of places. Removal was not a big issue, but when you have never worked on newer iron for some time, it helps to have as much knowledge before tackling the job.

 

Going back together however, I discovered I needed my wife's pair of hands to keep one side of the main trim panel from popping off while I attempted to secure the other side and re-attach the hatch close button in the bottom of the trim panel. You should know that the dealership allows 1 hour of shop time to re and re the assembly, and if you know what you are about to do it is quite possible to do this in an hour or so.

 

For the repair, I was tempted to use an Exacto knife and go around the perimeter to continue breaking the seal between the lens and the base housing, but the UV attack on the lens and housing made the plastic a little brittle and I thought better of that move. As it was, the original crack I had found in the outer part of the lens opened a bit more (actually grew 4 times longer) just laying on the garage floor. I was checking something on my laptop and I heard this 'pop' and sure enough the built up stress in the lens had moved the crack along a bit more. Clearly the assembly had not been manufactured correctly ** to begin with, but there was also tell tale 'Someone's been here before' evidence once the assembly was removed. That the assembly may have been disturbed twice now may have also explained why the lens had so much built up stress to begin with.

 

I used some Permatex Ultra Black Gasket maker around the perimeter, smoothing the sealant into the gap between the lens and housing on the top side first and then let it cure over night. For cleanup I used Mineral Spirits to remove the residue from the outer part of the lens. The next morning I sealed the sides and bottom and placed the assembly out in the sun to speed the curing process further. 48 hours later (this morning) I began the re-installation task.

 

** The two halves of the assembly are meant to mate together in a specific way and then some sort of sealant was used to bond them together. Noting that there were at least three revisions of the part number, I can only assume that Ford never found a satisfactory way to bond the two halves together while exposed to the unrelenting presence of UV rays. This also means that buying a new assembly at over $1300 USD would not guarantee a leak free solution as the new part would likely fail as well at some point. If the mating of the two halves was not a precision fit, then when the two pieces are bonded together there would be no 'give' between the two halves and unnecessary stress would be applied to either half of the plastic. This eventually helped to introduce more cracks (3 in all were found) before I got it back on the vehicle. Sealing the unit with Permatex made it more rigid and less likely to introduce any new cracks.

 

Following the re-installation instructions in the shop pages was absolutely critical in re-attaching the assembly without stressing the plastic by evenly applying torque to the 6 bolts that held it in place. I gingerly torqued them down, checked the fit with the hatch and rear window and then finally torqued the 6 nuts until they stopped, only just.

 

As always, a few pictures help to tell the story ...

Light Bar - Before.jpg

Light Bar Ready to go Back in.jpg

Light Bar Baking in the Sun.jpg

Light Bar - After.jpg

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Nice! It looks good and I hope your repair holds. Having gone through this saga twice, I’m glad this forum exists to share experience. Take care!

 

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8 hours ago, 2016 Edge Titanium AWD said:

This eventually helped to introduce more cracks (3 in all were found) before I got it back on the vehicle. Sealing the unit with Permatex made it more rigid and less likely to introduce any new cracks.

 

Thank for sharing. When you say "crack", do you mean in the plastic of the lens/base or in the seal in between them? Where were the cracks located? If they are indeed stress points, maybe other owners should check theirs before the form or become bigger.

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Let me be 'clear' and explain that there are two different things going on when these light bars fail and admit water. The design is two piece construction, rigidly bonded together.  If the black base cracks, the crack telegraphs through to the clear lens. There is no 'give' between the black base and the lens, so if there is stress between the two, or the body of the vehicle;  -  something gives.

 

In the 'olden' days we would have used butyl rubber tape (similar to what they used to set stationary window glass in the body) to join these two pieces together, but some wise acre engineer decided that cementing two pieces of dissimilar plastic together was 'the better idea'. The entire assembly is subjected to heat and cold, and the UV rays make the plastic in the lens brittle over time. Disturbing the assembly by removing it introduces even more stress. The Chrysler Journey has the same issue.

 

This light bar appears to have been removed previously before I disassembled the hatch to remove it.

 

In this photo you can see the original hairline crack in the right hand side of the clear lens (follow the arc of the wiper blade). If you look very closely (or take the photo into Irfanview and blow it up), the right hand side of the 'finished' photo shows that the crack has grown to about three inches;  -  and that happened as the assembly lay cooling on my garage floor.  Between the 'Ford' medallion and this first crack mentioned, two more appeared on the top edge while I was sealing the unit and I was not rough with it; - it laid on a moving blanket the entire time I worked on it.

 

This was my experience; - your mileage may vary however.

Hairline Crack Lens cover.jpg

Light Bar - After.jpg

Edited by 2016 Edge Titanium AWD
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And this is the result of sealing the unit ... a small amount of moisture after two huge down pours last night and this morning.

 

Seems centered around the 'Ford' medallion. Does anyone know if the medallion can be removed externally?

 

I still have the 'vent holes' open in each corner to vent mist too, but the holes are drilled on an upward angle so water is less likely to find it's way in, and there isn't a ton of water in the lens either.

 

Medallion has me wondering ...

Repair After Rain.jpg

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And the complete answer is, there are no cracks behind the emblem. The lens is a continuous mold with a cavity for the emblem to sit in.  There are two tabs at right angles to each other with push clips on them that hold the emblem in place and make it impossible to put the emblem back on upside down. They used two sided butyl rubber re-enforced tape stuck to the bottom and perimeter of the emblem that makes it really hard to remove the emblem without a plastic pry bar. (And while I used the fishing line approach to break the bond, it still held on too well). Use anything else and you mess up the lens and the emblem. I had a pry bar left over from the days when CPU's had to be pried out of the motherboard, but once I got the emblem to unseat I had to reach behind and cut the bond with a sharp knife before I could remove the emblem. The emblem is worth $65 CDN if you break it or mess it up, so take your time and wiggle it off.

 

I don't have any two-sided tape so will re-attach the emblem with a combination of Permatex Ultra Black on the underside of the emblem to seal it against moisture and a bead of Butyl Rubber Tape around the perimeter of the emblem where it contacts the lens cavity. Will never come out!

Edited by 2016 Edge Titanium AWD
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Final Chapter:

 

After several down pours it became obvious that there was still a 'leak' somewhere in the outer lens plastic. Having bonded the new and old crack(s) with CA, I thought I was home free, but I wasn't. Sealing with CA sounds like it will work, but the CA forms crystals and therefore is somewhat porous.

 

So, I bought a spray can of Rustoleum / Tremclad clear gloss acrylic and sprayed a small amount into the cap. Using an artist's brush I worked the acrylic into the cracks and applied 2 coats in succession. The acrylic is still curing 72 hours later, but the amount of moisture in the lens is now at an 'acceptable' level with mist forming on the inside after a heavy rain.  I'll eventually sand the acrylic with 320 / 1000 / 2000 / 3000 and then apply polishing compound the way you would buff and clear headlights.

 

Having originally drilled four holes in the ends of the lens to allow the moisture to escape, I temporarily plugged the two bottom ones and left the two top ones open. The top holes are angled upward so it is unlikely that they will admit a significant amount of water.

 

I'm going to call this job done for now. Unless I see any further water appear, the repair is good enough for a 6 year old ( new in June 2016) vehicle. Adds some character I guess. Definitely does not warrant an $1,800 repair.

 

Thanks to those on this forum who shared info and ideas when I needed advice.

 

Robert😄

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