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omar302

Group 65 Battery in 2nd Gen Possible?

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As per the title, anyone tried installing a Group 65 Battery in a 2nd Gen Edge? Specifically the Motorcraft BXT-65-650? Price wise it is close to the stock (BXT-90T5-590 in my Edge) but has much more Reserve Capacity. The other battery specified for the 2nd Edge (BAGM-48H6-760) is 2-3X more expensive here.

 

I know it is bigger than the stock battery (BXT-90T5-590 or BAGM-48H6-760), comparison is attached. For the earlier 1.5 Gen, both would fit.

 

 

image.thumb.png.d630accdc08e88b3f5b11c8913f1947b.png

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i believe it is possible but  will be tough to get in and out, snuck under the cowling as far as it is. h7 would be a more apt comparison.

 

pretty sure you would want to remove the cowling and the airbox for this one to bolt it into place.

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H7 does fit, put one in our 2016 earlier this year.  I removed the air filter box lid and moved the ground wire out of the way to install.  I did not have to remove the cowling to fit.   The battery tray has threaded holes for 3 different sized batteries, but is not mentioned in any documentation.  If you look up the battery on parts.ford.com it shows 90T5, H6 and H7 as compatible options.  I found that after the parts store in town only showed the stock battery size and it was special order only.

 

https://imgur.com/EFRbtXS

 

Edited by my2k2zx2
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 Confirming that H7 is original equipment in the Nautilus. Battery tray and most everything else in the engine bay appears to be the same configuration as the Edge.

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battery tray

 

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-battery-tray-ft4z10732c

VEHICLE FITMENT

Make Body & Trim Engine & Transmission
2020 Lincoln Continental Base, Livery 3.7L V6 - Gas
2020 Lincoln Nautilus Base, Black Label, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas
2019 Lincoln Continental Base, Livery, Select 3.7L V6 - Gas
2019 Lincoln Nautilus Base, Black Label, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas
2018 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.5L V6 - Gas
2018 Lincoln Continental Livery, Premiere, Select 3.7L V6 - Gas
2018 Lincoln MKX Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
2017 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.5L V6 - Gas
2017 Lincoln Continental Livery, Premiere, Select 3.7L V6 - Gas
2017 Lincoln MKX Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
2016 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.5L V6 - Gas
2016 Lincoln MKX Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
2015 Ford Edge SE, SEL, Sport, Titanium 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.5L V6 - Gas

 

doesnt mean fit is exactly same in the edge - slight variations in body style can make a project simpler or more difficult.

 

Battery options

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2016-lincoln-mkx--premiere--2-7l-v6-gas/electrical--battery

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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Thanks to all.

My problem is that we don't have many choices for batteries here. The BXT-65-650 being more common is actually cheaper than the BXT-90T5-590. Hence my desire to use that, being cheaper, bigger & easier to find.

 

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We have AC Delco, Motorcraft, Panasonic, Hyundai and then some other unknown brands. We had 3 models/sizes of Optima batteries, non fit. The market here is very oriented towards Asian make vehicles, so not a lot of options. Also, they universally have 1 year warranties except the Motorcraft BXT that get 3 years. Since we get about 1.5 -2 years life out of batteries, the Motorcraft warranty means I'm basically buying 2 batteries.

 

My current battery is nearly 2 years old, so I'm expecting it to go out soon and just trying to be prepared and decide what to replace it with.

Edited by omar302
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should at least see if the 850 cca 65 battery is available.  heat kills batteries faster.  also put it on a charger/tender regularly, which one depends on how much/what kind of driving you do.  AGM batteries should not need to be topped up (as much), but there IS a difference between those that use recycled lead and those that use virgin lead.

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The only sign I've experienced that would suggest the battery on my Sport that I bought in March 2017 is nearing end of life is the warning I get with the ignition on ACC after just a couple of minutes.

The resting voltage after a drive home from work is only 12.03 v.

 

I'd say this original 590 CCA has served me well, so I question whether there's any benefit in going up one size, or paying $65 more for an AGM - I don't want to remove my air filter box to get the battery installed.

 

I'm considering the Interstate from Costco at $100.

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-11-14 at 6.40.26 PM.jpg

 

 

 

 

IMG_7799.JPG

IMG_7800.JPG

IMG_7801.JPG

Edited by 1004ron
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4 hours ago, 1004ron said:

I'd say this original 590 CCA has served me well, so I question whether there's any benefit in going up one size, or paying $65 more for an AGM - I don't want to remove my air filter box to get the battery installed.

 

For me, we we have short driving cycles hence the benefit of a larger battery, As for the 65, its because it is actually cheaper here, so it seemed like a win-win. However, I found out that the battery terminals are on opposite sides meaning the fit will also require re-arranging the wiring. Will see if it is possible once my battery actually dies.

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I went one size up, the Costco Interstate H6 (48) and it fits with ease and only $15 more than the T5.

 

Charging it now, and will then  reset the BMS using Forscan.

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-11-15 at 3.53.01 PM.jpg

Edited by 1004ron
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5 hours ago, 1004ron said:

I went one size up, the Costco Interstate H6 (48) and it fits with ease and only $15 more than the T5.

 

Now that's an auto enthusiast. Have to improve on stock 😀.

 

Maybe also consider changing the battery type/size in ForScan for the bigger battery. 

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7 hours ago, omar302 said:

Maybe also consider changing the battery type/size in ForScan for the bigger battery. 

Thanks for the reminder.

 

What do you suggest - should I use code "0E" ?

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-11-16 at 8.07.05 AM.jpg

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Done.

Battery Type/Size changed, BMS reset, new negative battery connector and felt protectors on terminals.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVX1K2N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKUTR0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Original Battery

IMG_7805.JPG

 

 

New battery type/size - 730 CCA

IMG_7806.JPG

 

BMS reset

IMG_7808.JPG

IMG_7802.JPG

Edited by 1004ron
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1 hour ago, 1004ron said:

Thanks for the reminder.

 

What do you suggest - should I use code "0E" ?

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-11-16 at 8.07.05 AM.jpg

 

CCA matches the Motorcraft H7 (ABD "OE" as you stated), but RC is closer to the Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610.

 

Given that this battery is a direct replacement to the stock F-150 (standard 3.5L) which uses the Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610, I'd go "0C" or "0D".

 

The first F-150 with the standard V6 I found on eBay I just checked has "0D".

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On 11/14/2021 at 6:34 PM, 1004ron said:

The only sign I've experienced that would suggest the battery on my Sport that I bought in March 2017 is nearing end of life is the warning I get with the ignition on ACC after just a couple of minutes.

The resting voltage after a drive home from work is only 12.03 v.

 

I'd say this original 590 CCA has served me well, so I question whether there's any benefit in going up one size, or paying $65 more for an AGM - I don't want to remove my air filter box to get the battery installed.

 

I'm considering the Interstate from Costco at $100.

 

I have an H7 AGM battery, I did not need to remove the air filter box to install the battery. I removed the top and it was in like Flynn! I angled the negative terminal towards the battery in order for it to clear the brake fluid reservoir.  This is where it got goofy. In an effort to double check my work. I ended up removing the air box to pull the battery forward to double check the negative terminal. The connector for the negative cable is slightly raised up, and I wanted to double check that it was seated and connected properly.  If I was 100% sure and didn't second guess myself I would have been done with the battery install part.

 

Removing the air box was relatively easy, you remove the two screws on the snorkel, remove the top of the air box if you did not do it previously and pull up on the bottom half of the air box.  You're very detail oriented and meticulous with your maintenance.  I'm sure you check your transmission fluid and are familiar with removing the air box to get to the dipstick.  I don't blame you for not wanting to remove the air box. I certainly did not want to. I'm not fond of R&R parts, that are not necessarily needed to R&R, to get to the part that you need to R&R!

H7 battery vs Stock.jpg

negative battery terminal.jpg

Edited by onyxbfly
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@onyxbfly    I did remove the air box - when I started the job I realized how easy it was, and I've done it before when I did the transmission drain/fill - it's not essential, but it makes it much more convenient.

 

I also considered going with the H6 AGM, but seeing as the original battery could easily make 5 years, I didn't think it was really needed.

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13 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

@onyxbfly    I did remove the air box - when I started the job I realized how easy it was, and I've done it before when I did the transmission drain/fill - it's not essential, but it makes it much more convenient.

 

I also considered going with the H6 AGM, but seeing as the original battery could easily make 5 years, I didn't think it was really needed.

 

You're one of the lucky ones. There are a few other members that get longevity out of their OEM batteries.  The various Ford forums have several threads about poor battery life from the OEM battery.  I was on my second OEM battery.  Sinjimm and SpecialK informed me that I needed to have my battery replaced.  I was at the stealership for something unrelated and had them test the battery.....

 

The stealership said it was fine. She started up fine with no issues until she didn't.  AA and AZ both said the battery needed to be replaced. I thought about going back to the stealership and thought better of it.  If I purchased another battery from them it would be a 50-50 chance that I would screwed on the battery. Considering my luck with the first two, It was a easy decision to make. 

 

I walk by my local Wallyworld every day.  If for whatever reason she doesn't start, I don't need to make arrangements to get to the stealership.

 

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Went out this morning hit remote button and nothing, battery dead, it gave us no warning what so ever. Battery is 23 months old. Went to dealer and got a new battery under warranty

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On 10/26/2021 at 10:08 AM, my2k2zx2 said:

H7 does fit, put one in our 2016 earlier this year.  I removed the air filter box lid and moved the ground wire out of the way to install.  I did not have to remove the cowling to fit.   The battery tray has threaded holes for 3 different sized batteries, but is not mentioned in any documentation.  If you look up the battery on parts.ford.com it shows 90T5, H6 and H7 as compatible options.  I found that after the parts store in town only showed the stock battery size and it was special order only.

 

https://imgur.com/EFRbtXS

 

This was very helpful, Thank You

I went to Wallyworld and grabbed an AGM H7, shoe horned it in there with a pry bar or two and away we go 😁

 

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On 11/16/2021 at 12:48 AM, omar302 said:

 

Now that's an auto enthusiast. Have to improve on stock 😀.

 

Maybe also consider changing the battery type/size in ForScan for the bigger battery. 

soo.. i have to ask, since i just installed an AGM H7 with 850CCA, what will change by telling the computer there is a higher CCA and different type battery present? 

I mean do the charging algorithms change to voltages for bulk charging versus float?

Interestingly, my old battery (FoMoCo 590CCA) was either original or the battery life counter was never reset if it was changed.. it showed an age of over 2000 days..

 

I have not done any playing with editing of data bits with forscan, just data acquisition, so I am leery of changing anything, probably because i'm a virgin.. 

its always more nerve wracking the first time.

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3 hours ago, Cerberus said:

soo.. i have to ask, since i just installed an AGM H7 with 850CCA, what will change by telling the computer there is a higher CCA and different type battery present? 

I mean do the charging algorithms change to voltages for bulk charging versus float?

 

The general consensus is that the charging "algorithms" are different between AGM & FLA batteries and the ForScan change would set up the vehicle to charge correctly based on the type of battery. Also, the battery capacity info would mean the vehicle charges to the correct percentage (80%) as the charging system is designed to charge to 80% only for extended battery life and then would stop charging when not needed to reduce wasted energy from over charging hence reducing fuel consumption.

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7 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

The general consensus is that the charging "algorithms" are different between AGM & FLA batteries and the ForScan change would set up the vehicle to charge correctly based on the type of battery. Also, the battery capacity info would mean the vehicle charges to the correct percentage (80%) as the charging system is designed to charge to 80% only for extended battery life and then would stop charging when not needed to reduce wasted energy from over charging hence reducing fuel consumption.

Ok, that is the opposite of everything I know and have read about lead acid batteries. Lithium ion batteries cycle life is significantly increased by only charging to 80% of full, but lead acid requires top up with equalizing voltage of 14.6 or better at least once a month to avoid early sulfation and loss of capacity. 

They don't like to be deeply discharged for sure, that ruins them too but they prefer 95% plus charging most of the time, and require top up occasionally. 

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