1004ron Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 12 hours ago, cbaker732 said: What type of gas do you use if you have had a coolant leak in the 2.0 L ecoboost engine, 2nd generation? A class action lawsuit filed claims the seals and engine were not designed correctly, causing a coolant leak that requires a total engine replacement to fix. Ford specifies high octane fuel for the engine. If you had a coolant leak, did you use only high octane fuel or did you use regular routinely? 16 minutes ago, Dulce said: Sorry, but do you mean that because it’s only recommending something it doesn’t mean it needs it? Sorry just trying to understand. Because it is only a recommendation by Ford, not a specification, there may be some gain using the higher octane, but using lower octane will not damage the engine and will not be a factor in any possible warranty claim. This model engines manufacturing defect is totally unrelated to the fuel used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dulce Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 On 9/14/2021 at 5:33 PM, Tcinci said: Why isn’t this just a head gasket change? Or if it’s the head casting that’s micro racking the a head change. I don’t understand the block change. I asked the same question and was told that the cost for part + labor work to just change the gasket was high and wouldn’t guarantee a fix and will end up with double cost.??♀️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 12 minutes ago, Dulce said: I’m sorry you are also having the issue. But I have seen it on videos but I have not tried it. Quote has anyone tried Blue Devil head gasket sealer? Forget about the sealant rabbit hole - its already been stated here that's not a cure for the issue discussed in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 On 9/15/2021 at 9:24 AM, akirby said: Because it’s a flaw in the block coolant passages. They used a slot and that lead to cracking in the block. They changed it to a drilled passage. 11 minutes ago, Dulce said: I asked the same question and was told that the cost for part + labor work to just change the gasket was high and wouldn’t guarantee a fix and will end up with double cost.??♀️ Slow down and take just a little time to read this thread - the questions you're asking have already been covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dulce Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 On 5/24/2021 at 8:17 AM, 1004ron said: Has anyone had assistance from Ford when this failure occurred outside the warranty mileage and period? I’m not even bothering, from the sound of it Ford is not taking responsibility for problem. I wish everyone the best on this issue, really sad. But for a huge company like Ford, I’m sure they don’t care about the little guy. So this issue is not a priority to them meaning the loss is minimal to them. So sad ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 50 minutes ago, Dulce said: I’m not even bothering, from the sound of it Ford is not taking responsibility for problem. I wish everyone the best on this issue, really sad. But for a huge company like Ford, I’m sure they don’t care about the little guy. So this issue is not a priority to them meaning the loss is minimal to them. So sad ? They are taking responsibility by fixing the problem under warranty and with a new block design. What they’re not doing is extending the warranty to cover failures that happen after the 5 yr/60K powertrain warranty. However, you also had the option to purchase an extended warranty and chose not to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dulce Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 (edited) 48 minutes ago, akirby said: They are taking responsibility by fixing the problem under warranty and with a new block design. What they’re not doing is extending the warranty to cover failures that happen after the 5 yr/60K powertrain warranty. However, you also had the option to purchase an extended warranty and chose not to. Yup, exactly!!! Since I was responding to the question asking “ Has anyone had assistance from Ford when this failure occurred “outside the warranty mileage and period?“ ??….. In other words since my car is out of warranty Ford is not taking responsibility for it and I wouldn’t bother asking or expect any assistance from Ford. Hope thats a little more clear on what I ment. Edited October 23, 2021 by Dulce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 yes, people have received such assistance from Ford. most have been lucky to have purchased an extended warranty, but polite & persistent negotiation on a vehicle with reasonable mileage (12-15K / yr or under 100K i would say) HAS yielded results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 Yes, Ford does do AWAs - after warranty adjustment. But it’s done in conjunction with the dealer. I don’t agree that it’s the mfrs responsibility to fix anything out of warranty, especially when you have the opportunity to purchase an extended warranty. When you buy something you know exactly what the mfr covers and you choose whether to buy extra coverage. I do think mfrs SHOULD extend the warranty for these types of problems as a matter of good customer service. I just don’t think they are obligated to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CARR142 Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 23 minutes ago, CARR142 said: ....... That guy waffles - does he have a point, if so what is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 4 hours ago, akirby said: I do think mfrs SHOULD extend the warranty for these types of problems as a matter of good customer service. I just don’t think they are obligated to do so. and THAT is the American way lol. If you make a blunder as big as this one, they SHOULD cover it. bad bearing, or grinding RDU, ok i will agree it's totally up to them. but engine failure? no way it should be an option. the manufacturer is just playing the waiting game, knowing most of the owners are too timid to pipe up and ask for a square deal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handfiler Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 4 hours ago, 1004ron said: That guy waffles - does he have a point, if so what is it? That he's full of himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dulce Posted October 28, 2021 Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 2016 Ford edge 2.0 108k+ mileage falls under the (TSB 19-2346) and needs new engine block. - currently my car has shown no signs of over heating - does have rough start - some coolant loss but not alot at once - water noise I have decided to just keep driving it and just check coolant levels to make sure it doesn’t overheat? I will keep you guys posted see how long it last, wish me luck ?? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2015Edge2015 Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 Hi guys, had to sign up to report. I just got hit with the slowly missing coolant myself last week. No external leaks. Some of you have reported a steady dripping stream ffaucetsound inside the dash. I got that as well. Notice that happens after the coolant goes low a bit. Top it off and the sound is gone. But now I'm looking at a crazy high bill! What's the average cost and have any of you gotten help from Ford themselves with the cost? I'm aware of the lawsuit since lots of owner are getting bit by this. https://www.lieffcabraser.com/defect/ford-coolant/ My main question is what I said above. How much out of pocket and has fors done anything for good of faith in helping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2015Edge2015 Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 On 10/28/2021 at 8:48 AM, Dulce said: 2016 Ford edge 2.0 108k+ mileage falls under the (TSB 19-2346) and needs new engine block. - currently my car has shown no signs of over heating - does have rough start - some coolant loss but not alot at once - water noise I have decided to just keep driving it and just check coolant levels to make sure it doesn’t overheat? I will keep you guys posted see how long it last, wish me luck ?? I'm in the same boat with you. Exact. Mines seems to eat about 1/4 a cup of coolan daily. So takes about a week to see a drop that's half a inch below the line. I'm thinking of just driving it and add water once a week. This possibly will be my last ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 arbitration will have more positive results than lawsuits, going by past history. you should find a law firm that is doing arbitration with ford, if you cannot get assistance by applying to them directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2015Edge2015 Posted January 1, 2022 Report Share Posted January 1, 2022 (edited) Quick question. If rhe 2.0L get the long block replacement, what exactly gets replaced? Do you essentially get a brand new engine? Like the top end head gets replaced aswell with a new head and valves? What gets reused? Like does the turbo also get replaced with a new one or do they reinstall your old turbo? Debating if the 8k is worth dropping for it or just move one from the car. Edited January 1, 2022 by 2015Edge2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted January 1, 2022 Report Share Posted January 1, 2022 Generally a long block is defined as everything except intake and exhaust manifolds, brackets etc,, and sometimes does not include valvecovers and oil pans etc Short block is as above minus the head and oil pan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dulce Posted January 1, 2022 Report Share Posted January 1, 2022 On 10/28/2021 at 8:48 AM, Dulce said: 2016 Ford edge 2.0 108k+ mileage falls under the (TSB 19-2346) and needs new engine block. - currently my car has shown no signs of over heating - does have rough start - some coolant loss but not alot at once - water noise I have decided to just keep driving it and just check coolant levels to make sure it doesn’t overheat? I will keep you guys posted see how long it last, wish me luck ?? Happy New Year Everyone ?, Mid November I added K-Seal to my coolant reservoir. About a week after I poured the K -seal, the water noise pretty much resolved, my heater started working again and the engine light went off (disappeared/ not on anymore). I still have coolant loss about the same amount. I had one incident were car did not want to turn on at all.Turned ac/heater off and yup car turned on (no problem since then even with heater/ac on). Had two incidents were thermostat suddenly jump to overheat car alarm when off. Pulled over, turned off car no smoke or sign of it over heating coolant level was good. Turned car back on almost immediately and back to normal like nothing , drove it home 200+miles. Still has a slight rough start at times, still fill up coolant every so often depending how far I drive. It seems it only resolved the water noise and engine light turned off. Does it work ???…… I don’t really know lol !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2015Edge2015 Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 On 1/1/2022 at 10:41 AM, Dulce said: Happy New Year Everyone ?, Mid November I added K-Seal to my coolant reservoir. About a week after I poured the K -seal, the water noise pretty much resolved, my heater started working again and the engine light went off (disappeared/ not on anymore). I still have coolant loss about the same amount. I had one incident were car did not want to turn on at all.Turned ac/heater off and yup car turned on (no problem since then even with heater/ac on). Had two incidents were thermostat suddenly jump to overheat car alarm when off. Pulled over, turned off car no smoke or sign of it over heating coolant level was good. Turned car back on almost immediately and back to normal like nothing , drove it home 200+miles. Still has a slight rough start at times, still fill up coolant every so often depending how far I drive. It seems it only resolved the water noise and engine light turned off. Does it work ???…… I don’t really know lol !! I hear good stuff on blue devil. Scared to try it! Business at 150k and started to show all the symptoms. So I know I need a new engine. And doing the same... just add the water that it looses and crossing my fingers it lasts longer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2015Edge2015 Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 On 1/1/2022 at 8:52 AM, Cerberus said: Generally a long block is defined as everything except intake and exhaust manifolds, brackets etc,, and sometimes does not include valvecovers and oil pans etc Short block is as above minus the head and oil pan Sorry.. I'm a total noob to this. When you said everything but the manifold and intake manifolds.... you mean the turbo also gets replaced? I want to be clear on the turbo since lots of people say that it goes bad and it's expensive to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerberus Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 17 minutes ago, 2015Edge2015 said: Sorry.. I'm a total noob to this. When you said everything but the manifold and intake manifolds.... you mean the turbo also gets replaced? I want to be clear on the turbo since lots of people say that it goes bad and it's expensive to replace. When we are talking about either a long block or a short block, we are talking about the core of your engine. This includes the engine block and what is inside in (crank, rods, pistons, camshaft if applicable) Short block does not include the head, long block does. So we are talking about the engine from the heart out. Turbos would have been covered by the etc category of my previous reply. Turbos are definitely not part of either the long block or obviously short block normal definitions. That doesn't necessarily mean that they would not be covered by warranty, and depending on mileage and accessibility, if an engine is being replaced, that might be a good time to do the turbo(s) as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 using coolant sealer products will not work in the long run, nor if you step to anything above low throttle. ChrisFix has a video where he has tested such a product. best deal is to either trade your vehicle in, or put in a nonCleveland block, OR go for a full Sport conversion ? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edkene Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 Hello All, First off, I have a 2016 Ford Edge 2.0L Ecoboost SE with 63,XXX miles on it. I am the original owner. Looking for a bit of help. A while back I started experiencing a rough idle immediately after filling up my fuel tank (allowed the handle to pop; never topped it off). Shortly afterward I started having rough starts in the morning when it got cold and then it popped a CEL. I pulled the code and it was a P0301, Cylinder 1 Misfire. I did some research and came across people who were reporting that the issues with rough idle immediately after a filling up a tank were typically caused by a bad Fuel Vapor Separator/Valve (part number F2GZ-9D289-A, if anyone ever needs it). I replaced it (a bit of a pain...story of another time) and I reset the ECU (disconnected the battery and stepped on the brake for about 10-15 seconds). Things were better for about a day, and then I got the rough idle while cold and it popped the P0301 again. In my research I noticed a couple of people mentioned that replacing the Fuel Vapor Separator/Valve didn't always do it and that you needed to replace the Fuel Vapor Solenoid (part number 9U5Z-9F945C if anyone needs it). I got the part and replaced it (again, a bit more of a pain than I expected - story of my life). Again, I reset the ECU after replacing the unit. The vehicle started and ran fine immediately after replacing it and the next morning when it was cold. When I started it up after work I got the rough idle again and popped the same code (P0301). Question for everyone: what am I missing? This thing has all the hallmarks of a bad EGR valve (slight smell of gas, poor gas mileage, rough idle at start) but as far as I can tell these vehicles don't have it. When I look at the shop manual for the vehicle it gives the following for reasons for a P0301 code: Ignition System Fuel Injector 1 Running out of Fuel EVAP Purge Valve Fuel Pressure Evaporative Emission System Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Base engine misfire monitor neutral profile correction has not been relearned since the last mechanical repair The full list of issues are: Rough Idle When starting Slight Smell of fuel No rough idle for the first start or two after resetting the ECU Changed out the Fuel Vapor Valve Changed out the Fuel Vapor Valve Solenoid Poor fuel economy After start up and the engine has been running for 10-15 seconds, no more rough idle. Can normally get past it by having the engine rev for 3-5 seconds Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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