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2013 Ford Edge SEL AWD - AWD Not Working

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Hi Everybody, 

 

The other night I was backing out of my driveway, and in between stopping, shifting to drive, and setting off in a forwards direction, I heard/felt a big big clunk in the rear end. 

 

You know when you wash your car in the winter time, then park outside, and later when you go to drive away... your brakes are frozen, and you hear/feel a clunk as everything comes un-frozen? 

 

It sounded and felt a lot like that... Except 10 times louder and more abrupt. I have no codes, I have no errors, and I have no problems driving the vehicle. Even the torque-split indicator in the dashboard says the rear end is receiving power. 

 

But I assure you, it's not. It's quite cold, snowy, and icy here in Canada. I've owned this Edge for about 5 years, and I know how it's SUPPOSED to handle. I've never experienced any slippage or lack of control before. 

 

Now, if I'm trying to take off from a stop-light, the front tires just spin and spin and the traction control kicks in. The back wheels are doing absolutely nothing. 

 

I've crawled under the vehicle and nothing appears obviously broken. I'm guessing maybe the rear differential exploded? I'm looking for other explanations as well?


 

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Thinking your rear differential is dry toast 

 

How many miles/kilometers?

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Easy to find out; drain some of the diff fluid. I suspect you'll find metal mayhem.

Edited by handfiler

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Thanks for the replies fellas. 

 

Mileage is 180,000 miles / 290,000km

 

 

I will pull the diff plug this weekend and inspect for shrapnel. 

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Update: I put the Edge up on ramps/stands this weekend. I could not find a drain plug, just a fill plug, and I didn't feel like pulling out my pump to start pumping fluid. Also, if the fluid *IS* full of chunks, I don't want chunks getting lodged in my pump. Anyways, I'm 99% sure the rear diff is toast. I can spin each rear wheel independently from each-other. If the diff was in-tact, spinning one wheel should spin the other wheel in the opposite direction. I also put the vehicle in drive while on stands, and the front wheels spin as normal, but nothing from the rear end. The driveshaft is spinning, and there is a hum/vibration from the rear end. It feels like teeth slipping to me.

 

Looks like I can get a rear differential on eBay for about $250.

 

Overall I'm pretty disappointed with this Edge.

 

-The PTU exploded 2 weeks after I bought it (huge piss-off) 

-Center console had to be replaced because the touch-buttons for the climate control went crazy 

-Even now If I try to use the rear defrost the whole climate system shuts off 

-The wiper stalk had to be replaced because the wipers wouldn't shut off

-The remote start is terrible

-I've had to replace 2 bad wheel bearings

-Spark plug replacement is the biggest pain in my ass of any vehicle I've ever worked on, have to take apart half the damn engine bay to get at them

-Speaking of taking apart half the damn vehicle, alternator replacement was even worse, since it's at the very bottom of the engine off to the passenger side

-The radiator fan control module died and the fans wouldn't shut off even with the engine off and key removed (had to pull the fuse)

-Seized brake caliper (I realize this can-and does-happen to just about any vehicle, but I felt it worth mentioning anyways)

-And now it would seem that the rear differential has grenaded as well

 

I love turning wrenches in my spare time. But I *hate* working on this Ford. I take very good care of all my vehicles, and I've never had one be such a constant let-down. My previous Dodge went 350K with nothing more than basic maintenance. My wife's Hyundai has 200K and never had a single problem. Clearly I'm just upset and ranting, so take it for what it's worth. You wouldn't be members of a Ford forum if you had as much disdain for them as I do.

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Another update. 

 

Just for shits and giggles I called around for a few repair estimates. 

 

My local mom-and-pop shop quoted me $1700. (Used diff)

 

Ford quoted me $4000. (New diff)

 

They said there's a small chance it could just need a new clutch assembly... I presume they're talking about the electronic coupling between the driveshaft and the rear differential? That part is only $388, but they said from what I described to them over the phone, they also think it's probably the differential.

 

I guess I'm going to just pull the rear diff cover off and see if all the teeth are laying in the bottom or not. Fingers crossed, if it's just the viscous coupling, then I'll be running out to buy a lottery ticket as well. 

 

1533387857_2014EdgeMKXRDUATC.jpg.40da0b3534347ca1a36fcd67be2f4710.thumb.jpg.f0317318dfaa0b771e32d2d700f9987d.jpg

 

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The fact that you can turn both wheels independently indicates that the planet gear broke. If the coupling broke, no power would be transmitted, but the rotational torque by spinning one wheel would be transmitted to the opposite through the carrier assy. 

 

If you bought the car used, I'd suspect the previous owner had abused the car. But, at 300 km I'd say it's doing good.

 

BTW, does the mom and pop shop offer a warranty? (I don't trust ebay and a warranty might be worth paying extra).

 

While they have it down for replacing, I'd consider also changing worn parts; 

rear shocks, bushings, etc.

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Thanks for chiming in! I really appreciate it! I figured the diff was toast when I could spin one side or the other, and the opposite side didn't move at all. 

 

I have no idea about warranty, and at this point, I don't really care. Because I won't be paying any shop... dealer nor private. I made that mistake ONCE in the past 20 years. Never again. You can't trust anybody to work on your stuff. That's why I do all my own repairs.

 

Yes, I bought the car second-hand. And (full disclosure) I bought it from an awfully shady dealer too. That being said, I don't believe they knowingly sold me a lemon. I took multiple test drives, and, had the vehicle inspected by a dealership prior to purchase.


The previous owner probably did neglect regular maintenance. None of the problems I've encountered are "abnormal" for a vehicle that's 10 years old and has 300,000km. But I also blame Ford's design for some of this stuff.

 

I've never really liked Fords, and I suppose since this is basically my first Ford, I should have done a lot more research before I pulled the trigger. The PTU failures seem to be a widespread and well documented issue, along with some of the other problems.

 

But, at the time of purchase, it seemed like a no-brainer. The price was great, the vehicle is powerful, fuel efficient, comfortable, and looks great. And it has the BEST heated seats I've EVER sat in. 

 

Anyways. Rant over. Mystery solved. And I have a very good reputation with a local auto parts salvage yard. I will find a good condition/low mileage/used rear differential, and I'll replace it myself in my heated workshop at the farm. 

 

 

20180717_211133.jpg

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Considering the car had 180,000 miles on it before it shite the bed isn’t that bad. 

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It shit the bed the first time at 100,000 miles. Completely unacceptable to have a massive drivetrain component failure that early in a vehicles life. Don't you yanks have a class action lawsuit against ford for all these damned PTU failures?

 

And then it pissed, puked, and shit the bed at 180,000 miles. If this had been the first big repair, I would 100% chalk it up to regular maintenance (or lack thereof). I'm not upset about the differential. I'm upset about the differential on top of all the other damn problems.

 

I'm fortunate enough to have a nice warm shop to work in, with plenty of tools and know-how, I truly feel bad for people who know nothing about vehicles and pay the dealership thousands every time something goes wrong. 

 

Thanks again for taking the time to listen to me bitch and complain, and confirming my suspicions... I'll make another post or two once I've got this thing torn down and a used diff ready for installation. 

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I recommend servicing it every 20,000 miles and hope it doesn’t shite the bed again. 

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Servicing what every 20K? The PTU or the DIFF? Or both? Either way... seems ridiculous. I wouldn't be surprised if I don't have this car for another 20K.

 

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Not common for rear differentials fail this young. I'd bet the previous owner beat the shirt out of it. (Some of these guys think their street car belongs on a race track and drives them accordingly).

 

My local dealer's service manager feels the PTU fail way to often. He recommends 30k miles (48 km) baised on the fluid condition they see. 80k (120 km) miles for rear differentials. 

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