2010 Ford Edge coolant flush/change?

[Sjej]

I have yet to change the coolant on my car. Got it at 126k miles, now at 146k. I know I have time before i hit 30k miles, but i dont know when/if this coolant was changed. It smells like fish and it's blue, so definitely not factory, but just for my own reassurance i would like to do this. Also good to prevent premature water pump failure I heard

How would I go about doing this? Just drain and refill? Drain and run water through the system until just distilled water drains and nothing else? Is there a special fluid of some sort I need to flush the system? And last,what type of coolant should I use?

[DILLARD000]

Coolant capacity for this 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC is ~12q84=12L14; maybe half comes out in a simple Radiator drain; believe your 2010 is similar.

Drain the Radiator, refill the system with DistilledWater, drive for 15~30min to flush the system,

keep draining+refilling with distilled water & flushing untill all the unknown "blue" stuff is gone.
Coolant should be Flushed+Renewed+Burped along with replacing the ThermoStat at 3Year\33kMile intervals.
Inspect other Coolant system components: Hoses\HeatValve\Fans+Controller\Belts... replace when required.
The 2008 OwnersGuide Specs  wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant=AntiFreeze is Gold or Yellow color FordMotorCraft vc-7dil;
the Gold\Yellow formulas have additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial & preferred.
Products below satisfy these Specs; carefully compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant.
These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulations, do not contain any 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed;
other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed.
Only use these or equal Gold\Yellow Coolants; do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red...

 

AntiFreeze~Coolant=-34~+265f=-37~+129cRated@15psi=103kpa\50%Forumla50%DistilledWaterReadyToUsePreMixture

OwnersManualSpec wss-m97b51–a1=g05\GldOrYelColor
          FordMotorCraftByValvoline vc-7dil
          Peak pkpb53\10x                                       
          ZerexByValvoline zxg05ru1

 

Your judgement call, but only CoolantAdditive I'd personally use is KSeal, 4oz after each drain+flush+refill as a leak preventative.
          KSeal# st5516

 

As part of my routine 6mth maintenance, I handpump about 1/2 gallon of old coolant from the reservoir & refill that with fresh 50+50%,

instead of doing a system drain+refill every 3yrs\33kMiles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 11, 2022 by 1004ron

[Sjej]

17 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Coolant capacity for this 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC is ~12q84=12L14; maybe half comes out in a simple Radiator drain; believe your 2010 is similar.

Drain the Radiator, refill the system with DistilledWater, drive for 15~30min to flush the system,

keep draining+refilling with distilled water & flushing untill all the unknown "blue" stuff is gone.
Coolant should be Flushed+Renewed+Burped along with replacing the ThermoStat at 3Year\33kMile intervals.
Inspect other Coolant system components: Hoses\HeatValve\Fans+Controller\Belts... replace when required.
The 2008 OwnersGuide Specs  wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant=AntiFreeze is Gold or Yellow color FordMotorCraft vc-7dil;
the Gold\Yellow formulas have additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial & preferred.
Products below satisfy these Specs; carefully compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant.
These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulations, do not contain any 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed;
other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed.
Only use these or equal Gold\Yellow Coolants; do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red...

 

 

Thank you, this is pretty helpful. And as far as extending life of the OEM water pump, any tips? I might just replace mine so I do not have to worry about it

[DILLARD000]

Depending on season\climate (freezing weather needs a heated garage to park vehicle),

at over 140kMiles, so not to "shock" the internal Pump seals,  I would

slowly replace old BlueCoolant by Draining+Flushing+Refilling with DistilledWater over several weeks,

then again slowly Drain+Flush+Refill the DistilledWater with new 50+50% Gold\Yellow Coolant,

mixing a little KSeal with the new Coolant as it's added.

Transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC internal Coolant\WaterPump has basicly 4 modes of failure:

~ Pump FlangeCoolantSeal fails, Coolant leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump FlangeOilSeal fails, Oil leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump PulleySeal+Bearing fails, Coolant leaks into OilPan creating a "MilkShake"; engine is destroyed if run in this condition for any significant time\distance.

~ Pump OEPlasticImpeller slowly disintegrates, flow & CoolingCapacity slowly decline, leading to overheating.

In any of these cases; Pump must be replaced; new Timing components & 120% Melling OilPump upgrade recommended while there.

This work requires removing TimingCover+Components; can be done with engine in vehicle, easier if engine is removed.

If removing engine & vehicle is AWD, consider replacing PowerTransferUnit\PTU also; likely has never had Oil changed, unless you did that.

Engine with TimingCover removed shown below, before removing original factory TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump;

CoolantPump is behind center ChainPulley; OilPump is behind lower CrankShaft ChainPulley.

OE WaterPump+PlasticImpeller, compared to AfterMarket WaterPump+MetalImpeller, also shown below.

Engine with TimingCover+TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump removed, bottom pic below.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2022 by DILLARD000

[Sjej]

15 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Depending on season\climate (freezing weather needs a heated garage to park vehicle),

at over 140kMiles, so not to "shock" the internal Pump seals,  I would

slowly replace old BlueCoolant by Draining+Flushing+Refilling with DistilledWater over several weeks,

then again slowly Drain+Flush+Refill the DistilledWater with new 50+50% Gold\Yellow Coolant,

mixing a little KSeal with the new Coolant as it's added.

Transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC internal Coolant\WaterPump has basicly 4 modes of failure:

~ Pump FlangeCoolantSeal fails, Coolant leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump FlangeOilSeal fails, Oil leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump PulleySeal+Bearing fails, Coolant leaks into OilPan creating a "MilkShake"; engine is destroyed if run in this condition for any significant time\distance.

~ Pump OEPlasticImpeller slowly disintegrates, flow & CoolingCapacity slowly decline, leading to overheating.

In any of these cases; Pump must be replaced; new Timing components & 120% Melling OilPump upgrade recommended while there.

This work requires removing TimingCover+Components; can be done with engine in vehicle, easier if engine is removed.

If removing engine & vehicle is AWD, consider replacing PowerTransferUnit\PTU also; likely has never had Oil changed, unless you did that.

Engine with TimingCover removed shown below, before removing original factory TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump;

CoolantPump is behind center ChainPulley; OilPump is behind lower CrankShaft ChainPulley.

OE WaterPump+PlasticImpeller, compared to AfterMarket WaterPump+MetalImpeller, also shown below.

Engine with TimingCover+TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump removed, bottom pic below.

That is also very helpful. One last question, is the engine interference or not? I have no problem doing this job aside from timing. If I get timing off I want to be sure I can fix it and not blow my engine up.

[DILLARD000]

11 hours ago, Sjej said:

...engine interference or not?...

Various discussions & bits of info out there on this, but seems to be no definitive answer.

Assuming Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC is an interference engine, I used these parts for the Timing+Pump job:

~ Coolant\Water Pump, USMW# us6023

~ Oil Pump, Melling# 10390hv

~ VariableValveTimingSolenoids\VVTS 2ea, Dorman# 917-201

~ Timing Kit, Cloyes# 9-4226s

~ Crank TTY Bolt, Ford# f5rz-6a340-b

~ Cam TTY Bolt 2ea, Cloyes# vcb114

~ Cam Holding Jigs, ATP# ap-04-2619

Cloyes instructional videos note Holding Jigs, pic below, are NOT required,

but I felt need for them to insure CamShafts did NOT move during this work over several days.

I replaced all Timing components excepting the 2 larger CamGears+Bolts; those were left in place.

List above is NOT all inclusive of the various other items+supplies replaced or used.

Edited November 14, 2022 by DILLARD000

[Sjej]

On 11/14/2022 at 6:02 AM, DILLARD000 said:

Cloyes instructional videos note Holding Jigs, pic below, are NOT required,

but I felt need for them to insure CamShafts did NOT move during this work over several days.

I replaced all Timing components excepting the 2 larger CamGears+Bolts; those were left in place.

List above is NOT all inclusive of the various other items+supplies replaced or used.

 

 

Thank you!!! I'm assuming I need 2 of those tools. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the job, thank you.

Edited November 15, 2022 by 1004ron
No need to quote everything

[DILLARD000]

15 hours ago, Sjej said:

 

Thank you!!! I'm assuming I need 2 of those tools. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the job, thank you.

No, the CamHoldingJig kit comes with 2 jigs, one for each of the DualOverHeadCams, left & right, so only one jig kit needed.

Good luck & keep us updated on your progress & any questions as you go.

Edited November 15, 2022 by DILLARD000

[Sjej]

9 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

No, the CamHoldingJig kit comes with 2 jigs, one for each of the DualOverHeadCams, left & right, so only one jig kit needed.

Good luck & keep us updated on your progress & any questions as you go.

Got it. Thank you. This job is kind of a while away but this is all very helpful. Will be sure to update when doing the job.