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OK Canuck, ya scared the crap out of me again. But I do respect your knowledge and experience so I will defer to it.

 

The last black car I owned was a new 85 Mustang GT. I had to turtle-wax the thing weekly cuz I had swirled the crap out of the paint every time I washed and waxed it. What did I know?

 

25 years later, I'm hoping to not repeat that again.

 

I was going to practice claybarring on the old car that has 12 year old white paint but I don't think I'll see the mars (scratches) like I would on fresh black paint.

 

I think i'll just wash the new car, seal it, and either give it another coat of sealant or else the wax for the winter prep.

 

...And then go cry myself to sleep.

There are differing degrees of aggressiveness on clay. Like Canuck states, proper clay lube is NB. If you use a mild clay with proper lube, you will not have a problem at all. You will do more damage to your paint with improper washing techniques than clay can ever do. Use a 2 bucket method and a grit guard and a proper mf drying towel and you will protect your paint well.

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I am a complete novice to "detailing" my cars. I wouldn't even call it detailing. Mainly I just wash the car and wax it with mothers carnuba wax. I just purchased my 2011 Ford Edge and I really want to take care of it. As a detailer what products do you suggest I use to detail my car, starting from car wash soap, sealant, claybar and wax and are readily available to an online shopper? Also what tools are best used to apply each ie cloths, power buffers, etc.

 

Another questions is in what order should each be done, Car Wash > Clay Bar > Sealant > Wax?

 

Finally, I wont be picking up my car until very late November, each December and I want to detail it as soon as I get it. I do not have a heated garage or anywhere I can take it to be in a warmer area. What do you recommend I do in cold circumstances?

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My ride was delivered a week early and I hadn't decided on claybar, so I panicked and bought a Meguairs Smooth Surface clay kit frm the local O'Reillys. I already have Menzerna Power Lock sealant and Poor Boy's Natty Blue wax that i ordered from DI. Am I going to completely screw up my brand new Tuxedo Black finish by using an off-the-shelf claybar? Has anyone had any experience with Meguairs claybar? If it makes any difference the clay is white.

 

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

 

I used Meguairs clay bar and it worked great on my Red Candy. The clay bar is very fine and can also be use on glass...I used it on my windsheild. It work there too.

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I am a complete novice to "detailing" my cars. I wouldn't even call it detailing. Mainly I just wash the car and wax it with mothers carnuba wax. I just purchased my 2011 Ford Edge and I really want to take care of it. As a detailer what products do you suggest I use to detail my car, starting from car wash soap, sealant, claybar and wax and are readily available to an online shopper? Also what tools are best used to apply each ie cloths, power buffers, etc.

 

Another questions is in what order should each be done, Car Wash > Clay Bar > Sealant > Wax?

 

Finally, I wont be picking up my car until very late November, each December and I want to detail it as soon as I get it. I do not have a heated garage or anywhere I can take it to be in a warmer area. What do you recommend I do in cold circumstances?

 

Take a read through this thread as I've recommended some good products to use to maintain a great looking Edge. :)

 

You're right with the proper detailing order. Wash, clay, polish if necessary, sealant (let cure for at least 24 hours), and wax if you choose to.

 

Detailing products need a temperature of at least 10C or 50F to properly cure. Temperature is just one factor, as humidity is equally important. Without a heated garage of your own or a friends, you'll need to wait until spring until the temps rise.

 

Here is a a great post by a fellow professional regarding the topic.

 

Temperature and Product Application

 

Detailing products should be applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC) the carrier system for waxes is solvents, while polishes (and waxes) use oils for surface lubrication. At higher surface temperatures they evaporate allowing products to dry out and start to solidify

 

The other climate related condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render it ineffective.

 

These are the temperatures and conditions that are relative to the application of car care products; the most important is the actual surface temperature of the vehicle.

 

• Surface Temperature (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45. °F to 90.° F (4.5-32.oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21.oC) range.

 

• Humidity and dew point saturation temperature (the temperature which water vapour will condense into water) will also affect the application of waxes and sealants. Micro particles of moisture will form on the horizontal panels and due to the oil content in waxes it will inhibit the adhesion process, water will interfere with the cross-linking of a polymer sealant

 

• Excess humidity will also affect ‘how’ a wax or sealant dries (i.e. it may cause hazing or clouding of the surface) and will also prolong fabric / carpet drying times

 

• Most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used.

 

• The oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches

 

• Using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the engine block structurally fail.

 

• The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)

 

• Cold ambient temperatures (40.°F >) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc) will be negatively affected at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax as a lubricant, which will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to 'clump' and become unworkable

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Just trying to figure out the difference between all of these MF Towels. I am going to purchase the ones from DI:

http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Microfiber-M13/Ultra-Plush-Two-Sided-Towel-P105/16-x-16-S1/

 

But when do you use them? Can they be used to dry your car, apply sealant or polished? Can they be used to buff? Also can they be used with Poor Boys SW?

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Just trying to figure out the difference between all of these MF Towels. I am going to purchase the ones from DI:

http://www.detailedi...105/16-x-16-S1/

 

But when do you use them? Can they be used to dry your car, apply sealant or polished? Can they be used to buff? Also can they be used with Poor Boys SW?

 

 

I'm no expert here but I think I've learned a lot from Canuck in the past couple of weeks (I had many questions). DI gives a good explanation of what this towel is for. They aren't good for drying. Instead, use the DI Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel

When I mentioned streaking while using S&W, Canuck suggested the most plush MF towel...Microfiber reTHICKulous Towel - 16" x 15"

To apply product, use an applicator pad. Then you could use the MF you mentioned to remove the polish or sealant.

 

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For the fellow Canadians here (and US members as well), www.eshine.ca is currently running an incredible sale on Dodo Juice carnuba wax. Dodo Juice makes some incredible waxes and you will definitely never see it any cheaper than this. Regular price is $76.99 for 250ml but is on sale for $21.45. Also, their MF Waffle weave dehydrating towels are on half price as well. Anyways, just thought I'd let you guys know. :)

 

http://www.eshine.ca...ucts.php?cat=81

Edited by CanuckG35
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For the fellow Canadians here (and US members as well), www.eshine.ca is currently running an incredible sale on Dodo Juice carnuba wax. Dodo Juice makes some incredible waxes and you will definitely never see it any cheaper than this. Regular price is $76.99 for 250ml but is on sale for $21.45. Also, their MF Waffle weave dehydrating towels are on half price as well. Anyways, just thought I'd let you guys know. :)

 

http://www.eshine.ca...ucts.php?cat=81

I see several versions of the DoDo Wax. Is one better than the other?

Would you suggest soft or hard?

 

UPDATE:They were selling out quick. I grabbed the Orange Crush Soft

Edited by wilsons66604
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I see several versions of the DoDo Wax. Is one better than the other?

Would you suggest soft or hard?

 

UPDATE:They were selling out quick. I grabbed the Orange Crush Soft

 

A lot of their waxes are formulated for certain colours. I use the Orange Crush on my current vehicles as they are both red. It looks AWESOME when applied. Another good one is their Hard Candy, which can be used on all colours. The good thing about the hard wax is that it's virtually impossible to apply too much.

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www.eshine.ca is currently running an incredible sale on Dodo Juice carnuba wax.

 

Canuck

 

What is the best Dodo wax for Bordeaux Reserve Red Metallic paint for the edge? Also my other car is Dark Navy blue.

 

Also what is the shelf life for Menzerna Power Lock Sealant? Eshine has only 32oz bottles left I do not want to buy too much and have it go to waste. Say 2 cars sealed 2 to 3 (max) times a year

Edited by Factger
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Canuck

 

What is the best Dodo wax for Bordeaux Reserve Red Metallic paint for the edge? Also my other car is Dark Navy blue.

 

Also what is the shelf life for Menzerna Power Lock Sealant? Eshine has only 32oz bottles left I do not want to buy too much and have it go to waste. Say 2 cars sealed 2 to 3 (max) times a year

 

Gerrard, for your Edge, I would recommend the Orange Crush. For your other vehicle being Navy blue, the Hard Candy if you want a hard wax or the Rainforest Rub if you prefer a soft wax.

 

Regarding the shelf life, realistically you can get several years out of a polish or sealant before it's unusable. The biggest key is making sure that it doesn't freeze.

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Hi, I just pickup my blue Edge today, I noticed some hair line scratch on the paint. what is the best product to use for that ? I saw some Meguiar's scratch X2.0 or Scratch Doctor in Walmart, are they any good ? Thanks ..

 

Did it come that way from the dealer? If so, get them to fix it. That's unacceptable delivery condition if you ask me. As far as the scratch goes, if you can feel it with your finger nail, it is too deep to buff out. Dr. Chip has a nice kit for filling in scratches and chips and it is available online. Google it for retailers. I can provide links if it interests you. I bought it for my Infiniti. If the scratch is barely noticeable, get some 3M finishing compound and do it by hand with a micro fiber cloth. Go perpendicular to the scratch. Shoot a pic and post it if you can, I can give better advice if I see what you're dealing with.

Edited by richy
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^ +1

 

If you can feel a ridge when passing your fingernail across the scratch, it will not be able to be buffed out at all. If it's merely a surface scratch, a product like 3M finishing compound like richy mentioned or Scratch X will help remove it. While I would never advise using these types of products on an entire car, using them on a small area or scratch is viable.

 

Like richy mentioned, post up a pic of the scratch and we can give you a better idea of what you are up against.

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Thanks guys,....

yes, it is just a few surface scratch. First, I discover a 4 straight line scratch about 3" long (very noticeable) and I asked the dealer to fix it. The guy just use something like the 3M stuff but can not take them out then he took the Edge back inside. After 15 minutes, the original scratches gone but few large circular mark show up (just surface scratch). I was running late to work, so the dealer said drive it and if I still feel uncomfortable then set up appointment with the body shop to fix them.

With the way they fix the first scratch and few more scratch show up, I think I can do a better job myself. Where can I find those 3M finishing compound ? Meguiar's scratch X2.0 = scratch X ??

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Just washed my Edge for the first time yesterday, took the afternoon off specifically for this joyous occasion, I ordered the Optimum No Rinse off of eShine. Wow what a good product that is! Took the advice from the forum and also picked up some MF towels. What a difference that makes!

 

My lesson learned was to start on the roof first! I've never really paid attention to the roof on any of my vehicles, but on the Edge boy do you notice when the roof doesn't shine as much as the body does. And good lord you almost need a ladder and a harness to try and wipe the whole thing!

 

I also made the mistake of not ordering the proper drying towels off of eShine. I picked up the Simonize drying towels from Canadian Tire, those were dissapointing, I wasn't even done half the car and the towel was damp and leaving streaks already. Do the other drying towels do this as well? I only bought one, is the secret to have a few on hand?

 

I've always had my OCD on having a clean car but I think the Edge is going to take me to a whole new level! May have to buy the wife those diamonds she's been bugging me about alot sooner than I thought!

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Just washed my Edge for the first time yesterday, took the afternoon off specifically for this joyous occasion, I ordered the Optimum No Rinse off of eShine. Wow what a good product that is! Took the advice from the forum and also picked up some MF towels. What a difference that makes!

 

My lesson learned was to start on the roof first! I've never really paid attention to the roof on any of my vehicles, but on the Edge boy do you notice when the roof doesn't shine as much as the body does. And good lord you almost need a ladder and a harness to try and wipe the whole thing!

 

I also made the mistake of not ordering the proper drying towels off of eShine. I picked up the Simonize drying towels from Canadian Tire, those were dissapointing, I wasn't even done half the car and the towel was damp and leaving streaks already. Do the other drying towels do this as well? I only bought one, is the secret to have a few on hand?

 

I've always had my OCD on having a clean car but I think the Edge is going to take me to a whole new level! May have to buy the wife those diamonds she's been bugging me about alot sooner than I thought!

Good for you bman! I do use a small ladder to get the roof. It's the only way.

I purchased one of those waffle towels and used it last week when doing a no rinse wash. It would have been nice to have a second one. The 2nd towel is in the mail (with dodo wax) from eShine

 

 

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For you Americans, a great drying towel that is cheap and available OTC is the Vroom drying towel from Target. (It's yellow and is mounted on orange cardboard in the Auto section). There are 2 sizes, vehicle size and one smaller one which is good for wheels. It is very soft, yet very absorbent. I use a waffle weave first by dragging it full size across the panel which gets most. I follow it up with the Vroom one and the surface is dry and shiny. You can also use a drying aid such as Duragloss Aqua Wax (which is also available OTC at Carquest) or even take your ONR and mix up a bottle of QD strength. This helps eliminate swirls, etc. I highly recommend both these products.

Edited by richy
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Just washed my Edge for the first time yesterday, took the afternoon off specifically for this joyous occasion, I ordered the Optimum No Rinse off of eShine. Wow what a good product that is! Took the advice from the forum and also picked up some MF towels. What a difference that makes!

 

My lesson learned was to start on the roof first! I've never really paid attention to the roof on any of my vehicles, but on the Edge boy do you notice when the roof doesn't shine as much as the body does. And good lord you almost need a ladder and a harness to try and wipe the whole thing!

 

I also made the mistake of not ordering the proper drying towels off of eShine. I picked up the Simonize drying towels from Canadian Tire, those were dissapointing, I wasn't even done half the car and the towel was damp and leaving streaks already. Do the other drying towels do this as well? I only bought one, is the secret to have a few on hand?

 

I've always had my OCD on having a clean car but I think the Edge is going to take me to a whole new level! May have to buy the wife those diamonds she's been bugging me about alot sooner than I thought!

 

One thing that I can't recommend enough when it comes to drying your vehicle is to sheet the water from your paint. Basically that means to remove the nozzle from your hose and start rinsing your vehicle from the top down. This will produce a sheeting effect and will drastically reduce the amount of laying water on your paint. :)

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After a nice wash today of my black on black sport in the super cool and freaky chilling 72 degree day in Florida, I used for the first time Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant. I only did the front left qaurter-panel, it was getting late. It will now wait in the garage until tomorrow for the sunlit reveal. From what I can tell from the spot lights in the garage, the sealant is ALL that and then some. Super slick, quick and easy to apply, easy to clean off. LOOKS GREAT compared to hood under the spot lights. Thanks for the advice on the product.

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After a nice wash today of my black on black sport in the super cool and freaky chilling 72 degree day in Florida, I used for the first time Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant. I only did the front left qaurter-panel, it was getting late. It will now wait in the garage until tomorrow for the sunlit reveal. From what I can tell from the spot lights in the garage, the sealant is ALL that and then some. Super slick, quick and easy to apply, easy to clean off. LOOKS GREAT compared to hood under the spot lights. Thanks for the advice on the product.

 

Did you happen to snap any pics of your Edge after the PL was applied? It's good stuff isn't it? Removing the PL is such a breeze to do.........just like buffing air! Post up some pics if you have them. :)

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