wlepse

I have done some searching here but didn't come up with too much on the NA 3.5 and this issue. I did see someone state they may have had a clogged injector and injector cleaners helped. But here is what we have going on.

Truck has about 150k on it and a little over a year ago a coil pack went bad and we had code. I replaced the bad coil pack and installed new plugs. The problem was gone. Then I started to notice a weird stutter or miss. It almost always happens under partial throttle, when it is happening we can get right on it and it seems to go away. I think it is more prevalent between 40-50mph and possible happens more on tip in or out on the throttle. I have tried forcing it to happen a lot on a drive hoping a code would be thrown but nothing comes up, not even a pending code in FORSCAN.

I have tried injector cleaning and I did not see a change. Maybe it needs a stronger cleaner, so if someone has a suggestion I will give it a try.

Short of the injector cleaner working, does anyone have any ideas? I hate to shotgun parts but I almost feel like that is my only choice at the moment. I was thinking with 150k on the clock I am due to replace O2 sensors so I was going to start there. Then maybe coil packs and plugs. Possibly MAF sensor, but what kills me is I think this should be throwing a code no matter which one of these is causing it. So has anyone had something similar?

My wife's truck recently started throwing an alarm for a TPMS fault. When I get the code it is a generic fault that could be just about anything to do with TPMS system. Doesn't state location of fault to be TPMS sensor, BCM or ECU, but could be any of the above from what I read. To me the most logical thing is the TPMS sensor itself and a battery being dead so I purchased a relearn tool to try to force them back online. I was able to get all four tires to relearn at some point and time but never all together and now the drivers front is completely unresponsive. I am assuming it is the sensor, but is there anything else I can do to confirm this prior to buying sensors and paying to have the old ones removed and new ones installed? In a thread just below this someone suggested the sensor batteries on a 2008 are likely dead since they are only designed for a 10 year life. Since I don't like throwing parts at things, I would like to confirm if these batteries did die prematurely, so any insight would be appreciated.

My understanding was this was released as part of a class action suit so I wasn't sure if this was a new release or just the last one which could have been from few years ago when they gave up on Sync 2.

I just got a thing in the mail, Customer Satisfaction Program 19K03 to either go in for the update or do it myself. But from past experience I am a bit gun shy about changing something that is mostly stable. So has anyone had any real experience with this release? Does it fix anything in particular? Take away any features? Any quirks that might make dealer install recommended? 

In case someone else is searching I am going with the #3 cylinder being in the back bank by the driver. I think the confusion comes in between the difference of cylinder number and firing order.

Cylinder numbers are:

firewall

1 2 3

4 5 6

But firing order is:

firewall

1 3 5

2 4 6

I am going to assume the P0303 references the cylinder number not firing order. I hope this is correct. Below are some of the resources I used to come to this conclusion.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/2011-explorer-xlt-3-5l-v6-tivct-engine-misfire-p0201-p0301-p0316.451787/

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/745073/Ford-Transit-2015.html?page=268

So for the last couple of months my wife's 2011 SEL Edge would seemingly pull timing but never threw a code. Originally I thought it might have something to do with the tone ring that needed replacement. Well after that was fixed it still happened but never threw any codes until about 2 weeks ago when I got a P0303-C. The CEL flashed for about 10 seconds then was gone. I cleared the codes and it finally came back indicating the same cylinder. So while I replaced the plugs about 50k ago with stick platinum plugs I plan on swapping them all out. I also picked up a coil pack to replace the #3 since it is likely on its way out. But I can't seem to find confirmation of which cylinder is which. One source said count from left to right on back bank. The other says to start in same spot but #2 is in front bank. Can someone please confirm which is correct?

I have been doing a bunch of work on the Edge and honestly it is a pain in the a$$ to jack each corner and get it on stands since I have limited space in my garage to move things around. This morning I was checking out Harbor Freight and found this cross beam that can lift the entire side of the car up. Has anyone tried this? It has decent reviews on the site but its max width is 37" and since I don't have the vehicle with me I don't know if that spans the factory jack points or not. Just wondering if anyone has had success with it...if so I may pick one up at lunch today.

I always do but only on the vertical parts of the hub. Those parts were actually in good condition, it seems like it was the OD of the hub and hub lip that locked it in place. So I will end up cleaning those up and coating them too.

Victory! The jack bolts worked. For anyone else having a similar issue this is what I did 

Txs... hitting hasn't worked and after spending the first 15 minutes struggling I double checked the rotor and a repair manual to confirm there are no other screws. 

I saw a video where someone used bolts through the steering knuckle holes for rotor bracket. Going to give that a shot tonight and I will report back if it works.

I had this issue once before on this car but it was the rear. Everyone here said to just hit it harder, which I did, and it came off. 

Now my wife's truck needs the half shaft removed due to a cracked tone ring and since she is due for strut and brake replacement i figured i would do it all at once. Problem is I can't get the rotor off. It doesn't even wiggle. So far I have been soaking it in penetrant for the last 3-4 days and hitting it so hard with a 5lb hammer that I may be partially deaf. Last night used a torch to try to pop it, nothing is working. I have also tried a puller, but all that did was take a chunk out of the rotor. I also tried pry bars between the rotor and mounting tabs for caliper bracket but I am afraid to work that too hard and end up with a bigger problem. It's crazy because I have done these brakes at least twice before and never had an issue with the fronts. Has anyone seen this? Any other suggestions on how to remove these? I was thinking of trying to pop off the lower control arm, remove the strut bolts and take the assembly to the shop to press the hub out but that just seems crazy.

So I used FORScan Lite to pull the codes and much to my surprise the code was C0031:2F-68 for left front wheel sensor. I was convinced it was the passenger side, but I am having issues finding good info on this code. I was expecting this would be the same codes posted in a sticky to this sub forum to indicate a bad tone ring. But it isn't quite the same. I did see one reference for a different Ford model that said this was a wiring issue where there are small breaks. But nothing on this forum...has anyone else seen this?

Anyone have any tips on figuring out which wheel is the issue? I was hoping the lights would stay on and I could pull a code indicating which sensor is getting a bad signal but so far this is still an intermittent issue. Just wondering if anyone has any tips to figure out which one is bad short of pulling them.

Mine started when turning and braking together. Otherwise it was fine. Then after a few weeks it started throwing lights and warnings above 75mph. I too have around 120k.

My wife's does something similar and then it started throwing warnings after a week or so but only above 75-80mph. Most on the site were suggesting a cracked tone ring.

I have been traveling for work so I haven't had a chance to check it out yet but might be a place to start.

The oil pick up should be a rigid pipe and pick up height should be well below where foam forms. Though with that said most pans don't have baffles, so if this was an intermittent issue it could be caused by the foam when you turn and oil level in pan sloshed to one side bring foam level closer to pick up.

Typically high levels would increase oil pressure and that switch closes above a set oil pressure. I did recently have a sensor go bad and replacing it fixed my issue but there were posts about a programming issue with some if you turn it back on after it was running.

I did the rears last year since one was leaking...probably too much mulch one time. So I will plan to swap the fronts out since what you are saying makes sense.

But definitely have a tone ring issue too. Today I really accelerated hard and ABS, traction control etc came on. Two minutes later it was off. Looks like some places are selling just the ring but it might be more prudent to swap the shaft since the CV joints are probably close to going.

I can see that causing ABS engagement but you think it could also be causing the popping sensation too? Now that I am paying more attention I have felt the popping while stationary and starting to turn the wheel. That sounds more like suspension to me since nothing is rotating yet.

As for tone ring replacement, are you guys just replacing the ring or the whole drive shaft? I am reluctant to replace the whole thing since I believe it goes through a seal in the PTU and I think you need a special tool.

So this isn't my daily so I don't really have a good feeling for when this started but I thought I felt something a few weeks back. It seems to feel like it is coming from the right front corner and I only noticed it at slow speed and often when turning. Since we have had several issues with power steering i was suspect this might be something to do with the belt or the power steering pump itself. I also was wondering if this could be a bad clutch on the AC or something but I don't think that is the case anymore since it has happened a few times in succession and I don't think it would cycle that frequently. But doing some searching I am seeing a lot of references to springs popping and in one Mact suggested it was bad spring mounts. The truck does have ~120k on it and I am running the original struts so perhaps I am due to replace these. But does anyone have any other suggestions of things to check? I should also mention that just this week it started a new thing, mainly while going slow (~20mph or less) and turning left and braking you get the sensation like the ABS is licking in on the right front wheel. Again this could be due to worn struts but typically I have seen ABS only kick in if you hit a pothole and the strut can't control wheel hop. In this case I don't seem to get a noticeable hop or feel like the front end is bouncy, rolling or feels out of the norm.

Any thoughts? At this point I am leaning towards new struts and mounts but wondering if I should be doing something else while I am in there.

Wow...maybe I should have reached out to them. Just figured they were so cheap it wasn't worth the effort, but 200 bucks is worth a little effort. Oh well.

I was actually really impressed with the contis in the downpours the other day. Cars and trucks were all over the place, some pulled off on purpose others weren't so lucky. I actually didn't feel like road conditions were bad at all. I would definitely get them again.

So far these tires have been pretty good. The first year we got these I ran them through the winter and they were just as good as my dedicated snows (with some wear) for most conditions. In the wet they have been very good.in fact with about 40k on them the truck felt super planted in the crazy rain we had the other day where 8 inches came down. Not sure we will get the claimed 70k tread wear but honestly I usually get new tires long before we get to the wear bands. I think I will get one more summer out of them which will probably get us somewhere in the 55-65k range...so not bad.

Sorry don't know how to help and sharing your story with my 7yo son backfired. Told him the story hoping it would make him consider being neater...instead he said I'll take a sister! So I suppose we are potential adoptive parents.

Just a morning update for anyone that might have a similar issue in the future...truck started and drove fine today. I decided to take it to work which is about a 40 mile commute. No lights, temps were good and avg mpg for that trip was 27. I did take the old sensor to the shop and measured the resistance across it with no pressure then with pressure and basically there was no change. Since this is a single wire device I am assuming it is looking for ground and the fail safe is to have it open with no pressure. So I am more optimistic that it was the problem, hopefully I am good to go now.

As final note, I did find new wire/connectors for sale at places like AAP and Rock. So if you really get stuck taking that connector off you do have the option of cutting it and butt splicing in a new connector.

Yeah saw that earlier and forwarded it to the wife but this was different. She had car completely off no key in and went directly to starting and got this message 2 out of 3 times she tried to start.