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I don't have vented rears, I have the solid smaller rotors, my fronts are inverted hat like the non PP ST rotors.   This shows pad wear (still have some of the bevel left), the friction area (they look grooved, but they are smooth, and nothing smeared), and the hat/cooling fins (some brake dust, some water spots, I don't think any rust): front: rear:

I ran the FORSCAN program yesterday and got the code B1D00- Left low beam circuit short to battery or open.    Some parts of the program were unavailable due to not having the advanced license- which I'm trying to add presently.

It's a common mistake to assume the sensor is at fault and replace it, when in fact the issue is being identified by the fully functional sensor.   A fault code is just the starting point for further diagnostics, not a solution.   It may be a few causes such as a bad high pressure fuel pump or injectors leaking by badly.   .

Thank you very much. I scanned it tonite and it looks like a fuel pressure sensor issue. It makes me sad, because I just had it all apart for the coolant temp sensor.  Here's everything forscan gave me for the error:   Code: P00C6 - Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking Bank 1 Status (-AC):  - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request  - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module  Freeze Frame  #1:  Freeze Frame  #2: -EVENT_TIME: 295695606 s (Wed May 20 17:21:02 2026) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 312667 km - Total Distance -FUELSYS: Closed Loop  - Fuel System Status (Open/Closed Loop) -LOAD: 63.14 % - Calculated Load Value -ECT: 115 °F - Engine coolant temperature -SHRTFT1: 4.69 % - Short term fuel trim 1 -LONGFT1: 10.94 % - Long term fuel trim 1 -SHRTFT2: -4.69 % - Short term fuel trim 2 -LONGFT2: 9.38 % - Long term fuel trim 2 -MAP: 11.3 psi - Manifold absolute pressure sensor -RPM: 622 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -VSS: 0.0 mph - Vehicle Speed -SPARKADV: 13.50 ° - Spark Advance -IAT: 81 °F - Intake Air Temperature -RUNTM: 35 s - Time Since Engine Start -EVAP_PCT: 0.00 % - Commanded Evaporative Purge -FLI: 30.20 % - Fuel Level -BARO: 14.5 psi - Barometric pressure -VPWR: 14.66 V - Control Module Voltage -TP_REL: 6.27 % - Relative Throttle Position -TAC_PCT: 7.84 % - Commanded Throttle Actuator Control -RPMDSD: 879 1/min - Desired Idle Speed RPM -O2S12: 0.28 V - Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (bank 1, sensor 2) -O2S22: 0.08 V - Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (bank 2, sensor 2) -TQ_CNTRL: Idle Speed Control  - Torque Control Requested -ENGOFF_TIMER: 245 s - Timer since Engine Off -APP_FLT: No Fault  - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Status -MISFIRE: No  - Engine Misfire currently detected -IAT_F: No Fault  - Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Status -ETC_TRIM_LRN: Yes  - Throttle Angle Offset has Learned -TP_F: No Fault  - Throttle Position Sensor Status -MP_LRN: Yes  - Misfire Profile Correction Learned -MAF_F: No Fault  - Mass Air Flow Sensor Status -MAP_F: No Fault  - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Status -APP1: 0.78 V - Accelerator pedal position sensor 1 -APP2: 0.39 V - Accelerator pedal position sensor 2 -TP1: 4.24 V - Throttle Position Sensor 1 -TP2: 0.76 V - Throttle Position Sensor 2 -GEAR: 1  - Gear Commanded -GEAR_OSC: 1  - Gear Command by Output State Control -TSS_SRC: 0 1/min - Actual Turbine Shaft Speed -OSS_SRC: 0 1/min - Actual Output Shaft Speed -TFT: 82 °F - Transmission Fluid Temperature -TR: Reverse  - Transmission range -PROG_FLOWTRACE1: 0   - Program Flow Trace Information - 1 -PROG_FLOWTRACE2: 0   - Program Flow Trace Information - 2  

I just installed the geomet rotors and z23 pads on my wife’s 2020 Edge ST  So far so good. The old set had some life left but had a bad shimmy under hard braking.  Interested to see how Powerstop responds to your issue.   

I have never found a factory coated rotor that doesn't look like that in a relatively short time and that's why I paint mine.   POR-15 High Temperature Brake Caliper Paint, Heat Resistant Coating, 8 Fluid Ounces, Silver

I will have to see how the coated rotors look on my 2015 Fusion that is driven in rain, snow, "salted" roads, but the ones on my Edge that lives in the desert are still shinely coated and no signs of rust. The wear pattern is great. One small groove I can barely feel with a finger nail. They still take a beating and don't overheat/shudder on long down hill descents, or high effort short stops (not quite emergency stops, but close).   I don't have discolored lines/marks like you do in that image. I only have 31,000 miles in the 17 months on it since replacing the brakes, I haven't recently checked the pad depth.   I guess Z17 are low dust ceramic, so on my 2019 Edge (non ST) I did the same rotors and pads. I got the Z23 (carbon fiber/ceramic) pads and the same geomet coated rotors for my 2016 MKZ. I haven't installed them yet. Since I drive my MKZ more and am the more aggressive driver of the household, I tend to go more for the drilled, slotted, carbon metallic pads.    

Update.  From a performance standpoint I am very happy with the Powerstop rotors and pads.   I am not sure what to think about the amount of rust I am seeing on their "Fully Coated" rotors.   I sent them an email with this picture.  It will be interesting to see what they say. I think this is an unacceptable amount of rust on rotors that I installed 9 months ago. I would like to hear what others think?  

My initial thought, as enigma suggested, would be any doughnut or gasket connection between the exhaust pipes.  That's typically the first place to start.   Look at highly rusted areas and tap on them with the handle of a screwdriver.  Listen for dead sounds as opposed to ringing sounds when tapping.  A dead sound is an indication of worn out areas which you obviously can't see.   Check all the muffler connections as well as the muffler bodies themselves.   A sure-fire way to find leaks if they don't become obvious, is to put the car up on a lift or high quality ramps or jack stands, start the car, and giving it a few minutes to warm-up, crawl underneath and listen for where the leak may be coming from.  Done it more than once.   BTW, since you ne=ver mentioned where you think the sound is coming from, as a starting point for this discussion, I suggest you also check your exhaust manifolds and their gaskets as well.  I have seen them go bad before.   BTW, if the exhaust heat up, and the two (2) pipes were slightly loose when cold, the pipes will expand as they heat up and seal the small space closed.  We are talking about small gap.  Some headers were designed to work that way.

I don't recognize it but assume that cylindrical part contains the resistor.   Next steps would be to check for codes and if that doesn't provide any pointers then start fault finding with the electrical schematics and multimeter. Ford Edge 2013 Color Wiring Diagram Schematic V6 3.7L FWD pdf | eBay