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Hey everyone! Just joined here recently. I got a 2010 Ford Edge SE last October. At the beginning of this year, my factory radio began developing an issue with the screen where it completely dims on it's own regardless of the time of day and if my headlights are on or off. It's really bad that there are times where I can't even see the screen anymore. It's the base model radio I'm referring to. Radio still works and plays music well despite this! On top of that, I have the Sync features on it which has been very nice to have, but this constant dimming screen issue is becoming a nuisance to me. So I'm swapping it out with a new double din touchscreen model with Android Auto before the screen decides to permanently quit working. I'm putting it in myself with help from AI via ChatGPT. It's my first time doing this install. But I'm looking to get some guidance here. My ChatGPT is telling me I do not need to connect the black ground wires together like what I do with the other ones. Instead, it needs me to ground it to a metal area around the radio mount. My brother suggested the same thing too. So I took my factory radio out to identify the metal areas in the back and to see if I can find a good ground spot. On each side of the metal mount, I was able to find a screw which seems to be the perfect spot to put my black wire strands at. I also have a parking brake wire that I need to ground to so that I can utilize the full Android Auto menus among a few other things. Looking for recommendations on how I can hook my black wire strands as well as my parking brake wire onto the screw. Or if maybe there's a different way to go about this black ground wiring thing. For reference, I'm installing a Dual xdcpa10bt, connected using a Scosche FD5000SW-WM1 wiring harness with SWC interface box.

ahh you removed the front cover giving you more access.  I only removed the large one under the motor/tranny.  took it out the road for about  mile after about a 10 minute idle.  let it cool and level looks good.  I think we are in good shape.   thanks for your input. 

Same topic threads merged.

Yes, I've done it both ways, bulk of the volume just gravity filled and then the rest of the way with the vacuum device, and complete fill with the vacuum device and this method sometimes takes two steps drawing vacuum.   Attached pictures showing how I drain the system - I use a leaf blower or compressed air on the expansion tank and it gets more out - that's why the drain hose is restrained in the bucket.    

This thread makes me want to go change my RDU fluid again just for the heck of it 😅

yep, the plain type adapter is what i used.  It covers the rectangular hole, even has a flange on the top that rest against the top of the hole.   but the best I can figure is, the rubber adpater is not supported at the rectangular hole, and the vacuum pulls it inward sucking air right thru the rectangular hole.  I was thinking the conical adapter might seal at the botton of the neck... below the rectangle hole.  But I did not try that.  Instead, I put tape on the bottom of the tank where that hole exits and the vacuum pulled the tape tight sealing the bottom.  I wish I knew about this hole so that I could have fill it with the vacuum first thing.  But when I encountered issues and filled the tank manually to reduce volumn and then pulled vacuum, it pulled out some of the coolant.  I then used the vacuum to finish filling and the tank was completely full.  I had to remove some coolant to get it back to the required level.  Just to be sure, I pulled a second vacuum , the fluid came up to the top but not spill over, and releasing the vacuum slowly, the coolant level went back to the max position.  So I would say it is completed and air pockets were eliminated.  Will know for sure when it is driven to operating temp and coolant level rechecked.    1004RON...does that sound good to you?  this is only the second time I used this vacuum tool, the first time on this car.  It seems simple enough and I think the next time will be much easier.   I did make a tool to remove (turn) the drain valve on the radiator.  It makes it much easier to loosen.  next time I wont take it all the way off...that was a pain getting it back in the hole.  the o-ring had to compress enough to slide in.   

Because of the throat of the expansion tank design the conical tapered rubber stoppers don't work - you need to try a few of the other plain types that will seal on the top edge of the opening.     .

help, this coolant change is quickly becoming worth the $$ the dealership wanted to do it for me.  First, I did not know how far to turn the drain plug, I only turned it 1/2 turn and it pops out.  no problem except it took forever to push it back in (had to overcome the oring)  far enough for the thread to grip.  So now I am trying to pull a vacuum on it.  It is the compressed air type and it pulls a good vacuum  while off the car.  It appears i have good seals around the adapters on the coolant tank with a nice snug fit.  But after 5-10 minutes, the vacuum gage still shows no vacuum.  So I decided to manually fill it to eliminate as much air as possible with fluid and I have no leaks.   This is an attempt to reduce the amount of air volumn that has to be evacuated.   I try to pull a vacuum again.  Still no vacuum buildup.  Is there something on this car that is allowing air to be sucked in somewhere ?  I think I will go ahead and crank it to try to circulate it some and not let it get too warm.  and then try pulling another vacuum.        Ok update:  I found the issue.  Inside the coolan tank filler neck is a passage way for over flow to spill out underneath the coolan tank.  This passage way goes right thru the tank and exits underneath.  The 40mm adapter plug seems to cover this passage, but I assume the plug is flexing under vacuum and drawing air in (through the underside of the tank and up thru the filler neck).  So I placed tape over the hole under the tank to plug it and immediately got vacuum.   So fingers cross, I hope it wont have any air pockets.  Time for cranking it up and get the coolant circulating.

Extended Warranty?   If the dealership tells you that your car is over 5 years old, and Ford does not warranty Ford cars that old, they are outright lying to you.   There a number of reasons that the rear diff broke up.  Here are only two (2):   - Are you the original owner?   - Did you ever have the rear diff fluid changed before?

Well, put me in the oven and call me a biscuit......A CD player that works via USB !! Even controllable via steering wheel controls..........   Problem solved...except....where to mount it. Looks like the flat tray above the infotainment screen........I just hope it won't overheat in the sun.... Anyone have a recommendation?