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An old trick was to paint the link or tooth at each timing mark. Now you know how many links/teeth between cam marks ( used to have to align the distributor/oil pump also)and pre-mark the new chain/belt.

Having a V6 3.5 liters in your Edge you will be faced with a water pump malfunction sooner than later...I would say by 150000 miles at the most....if you are a good amateur mechanic (you have patience, attention to detail and dexterity) it is an "easy" job to do with leaving the engine in car.  There are plenty of youtube videos on it.  Here are my pointers:   - The power steering pump can be removed by unbolting its 3 bolts without doing a subframe unbolting....you need medium hands at the most and lots of patience and be able to work by feel, blindly.  There is a video on that on youtube.   - Having a good jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan....you have to lower the engine to remove a long bolt...a jack that would allow to make very slow lowering is reassuring in order to not let the engine lower fast and put pressure of the other engine mounts or have the ac compressor hits the frame.   - Removing the fender helps when you are leaning to handle parts in the front engine area.  Removing the power steering reservoir as well as the coolant and windshield fluid reservoirs helps for space when handling the timing chain cover removal and install (named also front engine cover).   - Be attentive to the timing with the RH cam dot at 11 o'clock, the LH cam dot at 1 o'clock and the crankshaft dot at 4 o'clock.  One trick I did to re-assure me was to pause a video where the timing was said to be correct and take picture of the camshafts and compare cams position with mine.  Also make sure cylinder #1 was at TDC by sticking a long shaft in the spark plug hole and rotating the crankshaft.  Have a camshaft locking tool to have peace of mind that camshafts are not moving once the timing chains are being removed and while they are removed.   - It is a no-brainer to change everything while you are at it: timing chains, tensioners, chain guides, even oil pump.  A high volume oil pump is probably not a bad idea.  I did not go as far as phasers except for their bolts.    

Changed the cabin air filter and engine air filter today. Old ones had been in for almost exactly 2 years. (Thats 16 years, in car years..... )   Took around 4 minutes for the cabin air filter, and around 10 minutes for the engine air filter.   Had a hell of a time getting the air box clips back on. Became a test of willpower. Almost had the back clip on and it decided to pop off and fall under the car where I couldn't reach it easily. Finally retrieved it with a grabber and we had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that using boot camp language. It still resisted until I got a pair of large plyers and humiliated it.    ... snort.   Finished up by printing labels with the date and sticking on filter covers (cause I can't remember shit about when I do maintenance.)    [  filter changed. ] [  04/16/2026.     ]

If you can lift the rear hatch open manually and it stays open, the struts are good.   If it's really heavy, or doesn't stay open after you lift it full open position, the struts are bad. (The struts are responsible to provide the main lifting force. If they fail, the motor will sense the overload and stop any attempt to life the hatch.)   If after you initiate an open procedure, you hear it unlock and hear the motor try, it may be the body control module may be out if sync. (If may actually forget how to open after unlocking.) To fix this possibility, disconnect the negative vehicle battery cable, and step on the break pedal for 30 seconds (drains the residual currents from the capacitors in the modules.) Leave the battery disconnected for another 10 minutes. The body control module will reset.    If after the latch unlocks but you hear no motor, its possible the fuse has blown. Think it's #7 in the fuse panel located in your engine compartment. (2013 Edge). If ok, then suspect the liftgate motor itself; or a wiring problem. The most likely location of a wiring break is the yellow wire that located in the rubber boot that connects the body to the hatch.   

I recorded a video yesterday but haven't posted it, yet.   We have owned this car for 11 years and and my wife hasn't noticed a problem with rain water until last year. I am thinking that a seal finally cracked.   After taking out the wheelwell, yesterday, I am starting to think that this car was in an accident prior to us owning it.    Hint of an accident #1. I noticed that there wasn't any sound deadening foam in the fender. That is usually standard from the factory. The passenger side has it.    Hint #2: After referring to ford's crowl parts, it seems like it is missing a couple of parts. However, it doesn't list a hose in the schematic. Perhaps, it is part of the fender piece, which is the one on the bottom right in the pic below.   It is likely that the person that fixed it didn't bother to replace the hose or the other 2 missing parts.   Going to go up to a local ford dealership to talk to them about ordering these parts for me. They might share some insight on the hose.    

If the door latch clicks open, can you raise the door by hand?   If yes, then your rear hatch motor may have failed, or you have a short somewhere in the power line.

Typically there is a drain hose from the cowl down below the chassis.  If you have one, then it's possibly clogged.  If you are missing one, then that looks like your issue.

Just go buy the original part.  Not worth trying to grab something from the local parts store. https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-nut_-w711889-s441.html     There are tools you can buy to measure bolt pitch but it would probably take longer to get that tool than just get the OEM nut.

I could live with that as well.  You may have a $100 deductible that goes with that but still acceptable.   Could be that the fluid was never changed, hence a solid reason for the failure. The RDU fluid is only a 75W straight fluid so it's not the typical 75W90 or 75W140 found in earlier models.  Plan to replace that RDU fluid every 20K miles so you never have a repeat of this issue