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Had the misfortune of losing one of my two OE fobs.  Hunted for it until I finally gave up and realized my stupidity was going to cost me a pretty penny, or would it?  This is for my 2022 Titanium Elite.  Not sure what the process is for 2018 and older vehicles.   I have a very good scan tool that does IMMO and programming, along with diagnostics, testing and some coding.  I still gotta buy parts like everyone else.  I was able to locate a new OE Ford fob on eBay that came with the E-key for $80.  Once I determined it was the right one, before buying it, I hooked up my scan tool to see what was involved in deleting and reprogramming old and new fobs for the Edge.  Read lots of conflicting information online so I decided to see for myself what the deal was.  My scan tool is a Launch x431 IMMO Elite.  It does a lot for the money, and is overkill for a DIYer.     My fob arrived and I got to work yesterday.  After updating the software and downloading some Ford specific files, I was ready to give this a try.  What could go wrong?  Just brick my crap and have the mobile Ford tech come to the house and get me right again!  To answer some questions and correct some misinformation I found online, here is what I know from first hand programming…   No matter how a fob is gone, whether lost, stolen, your dog ate it, you can delete it from memory and no longer worry about your car being ripped off.  You have to have two fobs programmed to your Edge at all times.  So if you are down to one, you need to have the replacement on hand so two will be available to program, and delete the old ones at the same time.  You can’t delete any now and then worry about buying replacements down the road.  Doesn’t work like that.     If you lose both fobs and have nothing to work with, the process is harder and more expensive, but not impossible.  If the car is locked, and the battery is dead, an emergency key will need to be cut to get in, and then a scan tool hooked up to go from there.  You can unlock with the Ford app or keyless entry code if the battery is charged.    Using my scan tool and the center console master pocket, I erased all fobs tied to my Edge and then programmed my new replacement and my old OE fob and everything was good after that.  If I wanted to add a third fob, it can be done without a scan tool although it is quicker to do it with one.  I tested both fobs and all functions worked like they should have.   Another note, to verify the correct fob you need, remove the emergency key and you will see the Ford part number, along with the frequency ID codes stamped on the lip of the fob.  The print is very tiny so get your phone out and take a pic so you can blow it up to read it.  Sucks getting old.     I know some of you are very well aware of the info I have presented here, but there are newbie Ford Edge and Lincoln Nautilus owners every day like me who don’t know this and find out the hard way sometimes.  Luckily this ordeal only cost me $120 all in.  While at the parts department getting my E-key cut, I asked the parts guy what a new fob and all costs would be to get up and running.  His response was $179 for the fob, $60 for the key, $25 to cut the key, and $60 to program, plus tax. You can buy aftermarket stuff and get programming and cutting cheaper, but you have to watch the aftermarket stuff.   I don’t know what FORscan’s capabilities are with fob programming so if this can be accomplished with it, more power to us.  I didn’t even try with it.  I just went straight to my scan tool.  Hope this helps someone.

110000 used 

I will sum up the last couple of weeks here…   - Ordered a K&N cabin filter for it direct from K&N and installed that   - Managed to lose a key fob and was able to find a new OEM Ford fob with the emergency key for $80 on eBay.  Whipped out my Launch x431 IMMO Elite and after some updating and downloading, was able to delete all keys and reprogram my one fob and get the new one programmed.  Took the E-key to the Ford dealership to cut it.  $27 later, I am whole again.   - From Rock Auto, I ordered Motorcraft plugs and coil pack boots, a dozen oil filters, a turbo oil supply line, and PCV hose to have as a spare (catch can plans in motion).  Installed the plugs and boots, easy peasy.  The supply line will go in eventually as I ordered it to see how the filter was set up and supposed to look.  For $40, it was worth it.   - From eBay, I ordered the engine cover and required hardware, a hood insulator, an owner’s manual, and the Ford dual horn used on the 15-18 Edge.  Installed all of that yesterday, still waiting on the manual.   - PTU and diff fluids are done.  Got a couple more maintenance related things to take care of and then I can get to the fun stuff.   On deck is window tint and all weather floor mats.  Contemplating an ST style grill from eBay because they come with camera provisions and no ST badge.  I have thought about getting an OEM ford grill, but it will say ST on it and since I don’t have an ST, I didn’t want to drive around pretending.  I am open to opinions on this.

Watching a video where the technician attached a pico scope to the Ford Explorer gateway module, which (on this car) is attached directly to the DLC connector.  (The DLC connector is molded into the case of the gateway.)   .

Thanks. With everything being plastic these days, nice to know.

Nah sounds like too much, already did the front intercooler, a tune, black lug nuts on the black wheels and their hitch cover embossed ST logo, fins and textured finish. just did the blackout tint on the reflectors, already had the black Ford logos front and rear

Only operating instructions. No installation instructions. 

No idea, never used a torque wrench on that.   Turn it down until it bottoms out and that's it - its seals on the o-rings and doesn't need any torque for that.

You beat me to it.   Not sure about the steel difference between different brand rotors BUT as far as " warped rotors " are concerned, the pad deposits are the most likely culprit.  Turning rotors usually does not remove that issue.  Brake pad deposits are extremely hard.   It's only a rare occurrence where the rotor has actually warped, and that is due to poor manufacturing of the rotor.  Bad batches of " something " always appear because they slip through QC, presuming that facility actually has QC in the first place.   If I was to change anything about my Ford Edge braking system, it would be two ( 2 ) things:   1.  Go from a plain rotor to a properly slotted rotor.  Personally I have found that slotted rotors help dispel water between the pads and rotors very quickly, like on rainy days or when you just get out of the car wash   2.  Stainless Steel brake lines.  The difference is night and day between SS lines and the overly flexible rubber lines installed as OEM

Its been my experience that the Ford brake parts are  of good quality. (Of course that's only my "opinion".)   Its my understanding that the reasons for pulsating rotors are almost always from over heating the brakes. Such as riding the brakes (keeping constant, light pressure on the pedal while descending long hills generates non-stop friction and extreme heat) or repeated hard stops from high speeds (doesn't give the rotors time to cool down.) Another is when you slam on your brakes and then keeping the brake pedal held down (such as a hard stop at a red light.) The resin in the  superheated pad essentially melts and leaves a microscopic sticky deposit on the rotor.   I don't believe that there's any real difference between the steel on one rotor and another. Pads vary, but its really driving that is the primary contributor to "warped" rotors.