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  • Posts

    • Good idea to add your vehicle Model Year to your profile.   https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=JxlRXtbqJsy7tgW0kLco&q=https+%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com+transmission+drain+and+fill&oq=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com+transmission+drain+and+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.33i160l2j33i299l2.822.9474..12508...0.0..0.242.3157.6j18j1......0....2j1..gws-wiz.......0i13.9_Bw-6Nk_Nk   I did multiple drain and fills, .....didn't touch the lines to and from the cooler.
    • H Mike Thanks for the reply. The first time it happen I was just driving on a normal road with normal dry conditions braking for a turn. No ABS even. The bleeding has been all manual other then the auto bleed using my scanner. After using the auto bleeder it makes them even worse, which makes me think it is bleeding air out of the HCU. After changing out master cylinder I introduced a lot of air into the system. I think the system is firmer and I believe the master cylinder replacement may have solved the original . I read that it can take 8 to 10 bleeding sequences to get all the air from the HCU and lines. I am going to do another 8 manual and auto bleeds. I am thinking I still have air in the HCU and need to do additional bleeding of that unit with the Auto system followed by manual bleed of each line at wheels. Do you think pressure bleeding would be more effective? I am hoping this will help. Will keep you posted. Dean
    • "You've made a great choice." I hope so...They should have left it and charged another $50, I gather there are many unhappy campers about the horn, maybe I'll get a "wolf whistle" horn from JC Whitney!  
    • Sadly, yes.  Ford deleted the hood insulation along with the engine top sound deadening cover and....one of the two horns beginning with the '19 model.  Good news, you've already found the under hood insulator that's a very simple install, the engine cover is the same for all late model 2.0L engines so you should be able to find one on eBay or a local wrecking yard.  As for the horn, adding a second one is as simple as ordering a second horn and attaching it to the existing bracket or have some more eBay or wrecking yard fun to find a replacement.

      Oh, congrats on your new Edge!  You've made a great choice.  
    • I just picked up a 2019 SEL and the injector noise is somewhat noticeable. While looking under to the hood, I noticed NO sound insulation under it?!? I came here for some info, all I can find is a post from chefduane that clearly shows a insulation pad under his hood. I have found a part no. for a 2019 insulator. Has Ford deleted these from production, is it an owner installed "accessory"???  Thanks in Advance
    • Because the failed booster allows pressure to leak from the master cylinder.
    • What I don't understand is why if the booster goes bad, the brakes go soft? To me, it seems the opposite would be the case. The booster multiplies the force applied to the master cylinder, failed booster would mean that the foot now has to apply all of that missing force for the same brake effect.

      A soft pedal, to me, implies that hydraulics are being bled around seals in the master cylinder or a line has ruptured, or a seal in the caliper is leaking.

      And that's why I'm an electrician, not an car mechanic.
    • Do you recall "the first time" the pedal went to the floor?  Was it during an ABS event where the system actuated the Anti-lock feature and you could feel the pedal pulsating?

      I have an intermittent issue where the pedal goes to the floor. It happens every time I lose traction on snow, ice, slush, loose gravel or even hitting a pothole under hard braking. It is only temporary lasting sometimes minutes, sometimes hours. One time it happened as I crossed the border from Canada to Buffalo and didn't return to normal until I was a mere few blocks from home in Delaware.

      Dealer was no help....... "unable to recreate problem". But I discovered I was far from alone with the problem. I am quite surprised that no one has filed a complaint with the government.

      A valve sticks inside the HCU causing a pressure bypass condition. Replacing the unit seems to be the fix but at over $1700 I am living with it. I have found that sometimes...... sometimes..... slamming down hard on the pedal while it's in the stuck position frees things up. But it definitely is heart stopping when it occurs.

      When you did the bleed, was it a pressure bleed? Vacuum bleed? Or the standard pump the pedal bleed? My last bleed was a pressure bleed and the next time I do my brakes I am going to do the HCU (ABS activated) bleed under pressure to see if I can dislodge whatever is causing the valve to stick.  

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