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Another good possibility.   Could be one of the half-shafts.  Could be the bearings in the driveshaft as well.  Or the U-joints.   In my experience, it was the TSM that was causing the issue the OP described. I would check all the potential points before spending any money.   To check any of the half-shafts or the driveshaft, one has to get under the car and physically move the half-shafts / driveshaft around to determine just how much play / movement ( Up / Down / Side-to-Side ) there is.  A little play is expected / normal.  A lot of play is abnormal.  Should be fairly obvious.

On my 2016 Sport it was due to the front CV half shaft. 

+1 Also, as the design changed between 2015-2017 compared to newer models, does it have the correct check valve for the PCV. 

You have to supply a LOT more info if you expect to get any reasonable help.  Right now, no one has any idea what the issues are

The " clunk " you hear is most likely the Torque Steering Mount  ( TSM ) ( pretty sure that is the right name )  which connects the engine to the transmission.  It has an aluminum body with soft rubber fillings.  Definitely not a chew toy.   As the rubber ages, it gets softer, allowing more movement when shifting between gears.   Easy solution is to not shift too quickly between any of the gears, like Park to Reverse to back out of your parking space. Option is to install a new TSM.  I think they are around $100 USD available from any Ford Dealer or there are aftermarket replacement versions.   Easy to replace  BUT  if the mounting bolts are rusted in place, you need someone with the right tools and torch to get that darn bolt out.

Mistro399:  Did you ever solve this problem?   To both Mistro399 and Cossie: You didn't state under what conditions the engine shut off has occurred.  Were you driving in a straight line or taking corners when this issue rises?   I have no idea what specific aluminum pan you are both referring to but it sounds like a possible  oil starvation issue. Not knowing the specific internal design of the aluminum pan vs the OEM pan leaves a big unknown. Just because something will fit does not necessarily make it a good choice.

Your  " thump","thump"-"thump"-"thump "  sound is a rotational noise, as opposed to something loose banging.   Possible options:  - Something with the drive shaft.  Could have a worn bearing   - Something with a tire.  I know you said you had them re-balanced, but could have belt separation.  How many miles on the tires?   Those are the first two things I would consider.   You also didn't say where the noise was coming from?   Front, Rear, Right Side, Left Side?    

Hello, I recently purchased a 2022 Ford Edge ST with 89,000 km on it. When the vehicle is in Park and I shift into Drive or Reverse, I sometimes feel a rather harsh engagement. Also, when driving in the city, if I slow down without coming to a complete stop and then accelerate again, I hear a noise that sounds like a “clunk.” I was also wondering if it’s normal for the engine to be somewhat noisy when starting up. Nothing too alarming, but I can hear a repetitive “click, click, click, click” sound. Thank you for your help!

This is a 2014 Edge 3.5L SEL AWD with 161,000 miles.    For the past few weeks we now there has been a "thump" noise that is in sync with vehicle speed.  I can upload a video of the noise, but is is the sound of "thump","thump"-"thump"-"thump and gets faster with an increase in vehicle speeds up to highway speeds.  We were late in to a road-trip when it started.   We had a tire-shop rebalance the tires, no change in noise and frequency.     The inward pad on the driver side was worn almost down to backing of the pad.  The passenger side seemed to have even wear, however the piston was equally difficult to react as the driver and boot was torn up.    I changed the rear calipers.  The calipers were targeted as they needed an extreme amount of torque to spin the piston back into the caliper.  I tried to bleeder trick to determine if it was a bad caliper or brake hose, by pumping up the peddle 4 times and cracking open the bleeder screws.  They only dribbled out and I still needed way too much torque to spin the pistons back in.     Now, having replaced the calipers, the brakes work fine, however the parking brake doesn't seem to hold as well.  I'll work on that in another thread.  The passenger side holds better than the driver side.    The "thump" noise is still present while driving as slow as 2-3 miles per hour.       There is no left-to-right or up-to-down movement when shaking the tires on either side.   Before I reload the parts cannon with rear-wheel bearings, what further troubleshooting should I try next?    

Did you manage to get it fixed?