Why not keep going just to see how long the original wp will go? chances are you will get warning with leaking if it does go, but if not its a 300k mile vehicle - is it really worth putting all that money into a new wp and chain anyway?
Thanks for the reply.
I opened the housing and found the bulb was loose in the housing. I reinserted the bulb/socket and hopefully locked it in place fully....it wouldn't turn any further...
The light image on the garage wall now matches the passenger side....
Left: FCC: M3N-A2C93142300, PN: 164-R8163 Freq: 315
Right: FCC: M3N-A2C931426, PN: 164-R8182 Freq: 902
I have the same story as Guest Joed, except I purchased a 4 button remote as pictured. I just noticed the frequencies and realize that I am out of luck going this route. I guess I have to buy the add on module?
Decided to go hands-on tonite and opened up the rear cover behind the headlight bulb....
Apparently the bulb had managed to loosen itself in the housing so the bulb was sorta dangling inside the headlight assembly leading to the weird light pattern on the garage wall.... I was able to get it re-locked in place and the pattern now matches the passenger side.... Hopefully it stays locked in place....
I am not sure where you thought I did not understand the need for a larger/better intercooler. I have been and am all for one. I know the AGS has to be removed, and never said plug and play. I just would like one that 'bolts' up to the stock holes or area without modification other than removal of the AGS. On the Focus the FMIC was pretty much bolt on, at least the one I got, and was only $350 and was size wise, increase in cooling area, about the same as we are talking here if not more. I do not recall off the top of my head. It was very effective at keeping the charge air temp delta, cold side, to withing 5-7 degrees start to finish. Either way I lease so I want to be able to pull the bumper cover, remove AGS and Stock FMIC and install new FMIC and put the bumper cover back on, like I did with my Focus ST. I know when I turn it in they would not notice the holes drilled when returned to stock but I still do not want to have to drill.
Batteries are critical in these "computer driven" vehicles. I would think that 2 years is a little early but not unheard of. The quality of the batteries for sale vary and they vary by brand. You can have the car tested for parasitic battery drain. These cars use lots of power when not running. If changing the battery every two years does the trick than you may have to live with it unless someone finds an excessive power draw when the car is off or your alternator isn't putting out. If the battery is only dying every 2 years or so than I would suspect the battery is just giving up. Make sure they are replacing it with the properly rated battery.