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Welcome. eBay is known for counterfeit spark plugs and other components. Best get Forscan and scan for codes as the starting point in your diagnostics.
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Mine's doing the same thing (to a lesser extent, passenger ice cold, driver cool). Scheduled to have shop replace it in a couple of weeks. Quoted me 2 hours + parts (guessing ~$50 for Motorcraft part.) But you can try a HVAC module reset. It runs the actuators through their range to find the end points. It sometimes fixes problem if Actuator lost end points. Procedure: Car on but not running. HVAC off. Press OFF and DEFROST buttons for 5 seconds. Release and press the climate control ON button within 2 seconds. HVAC display goes into test mode and generates results when done. (88 88 means all ok.) This procedure works on mine, but your model may have a different button combination. We covered this several years ago in this forum. Do a search if this procedure didn't work. -
i bought the car from auction - it would drive fine but misfire on heavy load/ uphill would have to downshift - got the coils and plugs changed (have put stuff from ebay) - misfire got fixed but would occasionally get low oil pressure sign on dash - one day the car suddenly stopped while my wife was driving (vpower 5 amp fuse blown) - i thought the oil pump died so i got that repalced - car would start after changing the vpower fuse but then would die - towed it to the mechanic who changed the pump - he did something and i drove the car home fine but it would misfire on like before - mechanic said its electrical issue with harness - two coils getting high voltage -
This would indicate a failing Electric Power Assisted Steering torque sensor, or a binding lower steering shaft U-joint. At highway speeds, you make very small steering adjustments. If the torque sensor develops a dead zone due to wear in its center position, it stops reading those small movements and the computer fails to provide steering assist. This would make the steering wheel feel sticky. When you move the steering wheel back and forth, you move out 9f the densird center position, allowing the computer to read the signals. .
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This is a highly documented pattern failure on 2019+ Ford AWD. It's probably a failing Active Torque Coupling Unit on the Rear Differential. Starting with the 2919 edges, Ford changed the AWD disconnect system that frequently suffers from internal clutch pack chatter or mechanical failure. When you take off or turn right the vehicle weight transfers and forces the rear differential to send torque to the left rear wheel while slipping the inner right wheel, which triggers a distinct clunking, knocking, or thumping sound from that rear area. No recalls on the coupler, but a recall on the rdu. 21S02 (Rear Drive Unit Lubricant Level.) Applies to certain Edges regarding a low lubricant fill level in the rear drive unit. If the fluid was below the minimum level, the axle was supposed to be replaced free of charge. You should check if your specific VIN was ever flagged for this, as running low on fluid from the factory causes the exact premature failure and clunking you are experiencing. There's TSB 21-2389 for Rear Actuator Noise. Check for recalls by getting your VIN and go to the NHTSA Recall Lookup Tool. https://share.google/NTvPbYbGnMtqpp5ND (Good reason to have an extended warranty.)
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Just seen your post, otherwise I would have spoken up sooner. This may be a mistake. Taken from page 192 of a 2022 owners manual: WARNING: Vehicle modifications involving braking system, aftermarket roof racks, suspension, steering system, tire construction and wheel and tire size may change the handling characteristics of your vehicle and may adversely affect the performance of the electronic stability control system. In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the electronic stability control system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the electronic stability control sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the electronic stability control system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.
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Since your display is operating (the GPS/compass tracks your movement) confirms that the APIM is working. This indicates that the touch layer (the digitizer) which glued to the front of the LCD has probably failed. But, before you go any further, try a software reboot (to rule out a frozen system cache.) 1. Turn your vehicle on to accessory mode. 2. Press and hold the Power Button (center of the volume knob) and the Seek Right Button (>>|) at the exact same time. 3. Hold for 15 seconds until the screen goes completely black. 4. Release the buttons and wait for the MyFord Touch system to reboot. .
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By boostededge · Posted
Awesome info Samurai Edge. Not a lot of info out there because no one probably does it themselves! Great write-up. If I ever buy one I will use this.
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