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Hi, does anyone know how to retrieve a stuck cd? There may be two of them😕

I agree with you that 162 ft/lbs is too high a number and wonder where that number came from.  Your note above also draws interest as to whether or not the Ford manual is showing the correct numbers or not.   By comparison, I just looked up the wheel torque numbers for the Ford Mustang, which shows 150 ft/lbs for the 2015 - 2026 model years.  " Ford recommends 150 lb-ft for all 2024–2026 Mustangs, including EcoBoost, GT, and Dark Horse trims. "   Looking at the 2015 - 2026  F150 wheel torque specs, Ford recommended numbers are 150 ft/lbs.   Looking at the Lincoln Navigator 2014 - 2026 wheel torque specs, Ford recommended numbers are 150 ft/lbs.   Something is amiss here in the Ford stated torque numbers ( 162 ft/lbs ) for the Edge.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help from anyone with OASIS access to pull a report for my Edge ST. I’m trying to verify the vehicle's service history (repairs/replacements) and check for any outstanding recalls or TSBs. I am particularly interested in any updates regarding the TCM (Transmission Control Module) or PCM. (shit 2>3 problem) Vehicle Data (from FORScan): VIN: 2FMPK4AP8LBA92260 Model: 2020 Ford Edge ST Engine: 2.7L EcoBoost V6 Current PCM Strategy: K2GA-14C204-GFE PCM Calibration Level: K2GA-12A650-GFE Mileage: ~91,200 km (approx. 56,700 miles) I would greatly appreciate it if someone could provide a printout or a summary of what’s in the system. If there’s a small fee for your time/trouble, please let me know via PM. Thanks in advance for the help!

1004ron.... are you saying you fill most of it up, then pull a vacuum to get the "burp", then vacuum fill the last little bit?   I was wondering if it could be done this way.  Seems it would pull the vacuum much faster since there is not much air there anyway.  My son needs to do his car too, I think we will tackle his and mine at the same time. 

I am sure I will research this again next tire rotation to see if I find anything different.  162 ft-lbs is long ways from 90 or 100 ft-lbs.   Here is what Google AI says about an M14 screw:    120–140 Nm (88–103 ft-lbs) for Grade 8.8 to 170–215 Nm (125–158 ft-lbs) for Grade 10.9.    

I know this is a long post but please take the time if you have it. Thank You     Part One, Friends vehicle had intermittent charge system warning light. On inspection noticed junk positive terminal and replaced. Part Two, Few months later friend informed me that vehicle had to be started with a jump pack and shut down electric loads on the system to get him home. Part three, The PRELIMINARY repair steps. A. removed battery from the vehicle full charge and test reviled good battery. B. drove vehicle 10 miles to my place to start diagnostic. C. I consulted with my alternator expert and supplier about this alternator and we discussed possible issues and parts availability. Because I did not have the alternator in hand we could not pinpoint the regulator possibly needed. Being old school in some respects I removed alternator to get it on the test bench without any other tests on vehicle. (I have been burnt by hairline cracks and bad solder joints inside alternators before and always inspect them. D. I cracked the case for my own curiosity and nothing seemed problematic with visual inspection. I took it to the alternator shop and it was determined to be a good unit. E. Alternator installed and no problems for several minutes / miles. them it acted up. The HARD CORE diagnosis begins. A. Hooked the the unit up to a proper scanner and monitored GENCOM and GENMON everything looked good scanner reported no issues or faults. I am no good with multiple numbers flashing on the screen that are an attempted to describe a wave form (this is a problem with me not the equipment or information delivery technique)  I hooked up the oscilloscope to the GENCOM and GENMON and got proper wave forms. GENMON showed consistent frequency PWM and GENCOM showed consistant frequency PWM bursts when load characteristics changed. We also reset the BMS. So scanner shows no codes, no circuit faults and the wave forms look good! B. Believing that we had fallen victim to plug corrosion or seating I happily took out for a test drive monitoring the voltage with a simple OBD code reader. Everything was good till it stopped charging and threw warnings. C. The next day I hooked my bench top analogue scope to the scope to the GENCOM and GENMON using 10x probes in order not to affect the circuit I was measuring. (I only have access to the multi thousand dollar scanner during limited times by the grace of the auto mechanics school in my area.) Again the wave forms were excellent but I got lucky enough that I could force the system to fail with time and heavy load. (turned on AC and brights at idle). At this point one wave form flat lined on the rail (full on no PWM) and the other just chopped at %50 percent duty cycle and maybe 1 volt. In this abusive loading situation I would not expect the alternator to stop charging I would expect the alternator to give all it could and throw a battery light. And the fact is that it stops charging during driving RPMs as well. D. So this is a intermittent issue. I hooked the vehicle up to a high quality scanner and ran a system health check and it implied a P0620-00 GEN CONTROL error without the PCM actually throwing the code. With this information I ran the ShopKeyPro Pinpoint TestC: DTC P0620 which led me through the point to point wiring harness tests faults to ground and faults to Voltage tests. Shorted the GENMON and GENCOM and tested that there duty cycle stayed within %5 (this was a clever test) Used an actual bulb test light to make sure Vref could handle current at the alternator plug. Also per test instructions wiggled, pulled and poked all connections. Could not get this thing to give a bad reading. what a way to spend a Friday night. DTC E. My shop time was over for the week. I drove the Edge back to my place it erred out on the way so we had not gotten lucky by re seating the connections (PCM and Alternator) The next day I procured a different factory Ford / Mitsubishi alternator from a Ford edge so no voltage regulator incompatibility problems, installed it. I only started the car long enough to make sure it was charging.    So here I am Sunday morning about to go see if it is fixed. If It is not I don't know where to go except change out PCM and that means new car as this one is not worth it. I'd hate to give that advice when I am simply missing something.   Thank you Jeremy  

Well, that was fun . . . .    Just for yuks, I just did an internet search for the Ford Edge lug nut torque specs, for the years 2007 to 2024.   Depending on where you find the information, the torque spec ranges from a low of 79 ft/lbs  to  a high of 162 ft/lbs ( as shown in the Ford documentation ).   Where fh4ever had his Service Manager & Parts guy tell him that 162 ft/lbs is the correct answer, my purchasing dealer Service Tech told me 100 ft/lbs.   When in doubt, go with the Service Manual and hope the values specified for any item is correct.

I do the bulk fill the old way and the last part I do under vacuum, with all my vehicles regardless whether a procedure calls for vacuum filling.

I used the brush-on type as you described in the past.   Maybe I got a bad batch or maybe they changed formulas and then changed back again.  I have no idea.   If it has worked for you more recently than 10 years ago, maybe they improved it again.  More power to you if they had.

with some of today's engines, there is real possiblility of an air pocket remaining when refilled with coolant.  Air that is trapped and can cause an isolated overheat issue.  Vacuum refill ensures no air pocket remains.  It was recommended to me to do this on a 2006 Focus, which is why I bought the tool.  With a 2024 Edge, I don't want to take any chances ($$$$).    But yes, up until now all my vehicles were old enough to drain and simply pour in new coolant.  BTW, I dont think they worry about the thermostat.  All the coolant on the engine side should drain.  Maybe a little left over above the thermostat possibly.  But I think now the thermostats might have a small bypass opening built in , therfore it should drain above the thermostat too.  The only left over coolant after draining might be some in the heater core and the PTU cooler if equipped.   Make sense to y'all?