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@omar302   Good to hear. In my opinion this is a premature failure of this type of joint and suspect its improper lubricant.   I occasionally had the clunk with the steering at full lock and pulling off.   Another symptom is what sounded like gear whine to me and thought it was my transfer case going out. That whine is about gone - its very faint now and sounds like its coming from the rear and if I monitor the AWD to FWD transfer I can hear a decrease at that time goes into FWD, which has me thinking about changing the rear CV Axles and if I do I'll be looking the TrakMotive or GSP on RockAuto.com $85 per CV Axle, most likely also incorrect lubricant, experience changing these and the fact that it should be easier on the rear, makes me close to pulling the trigger on replacing the rear.   I had symptoms 2, 3, 4 & 5 described in the attached document. https://www.rockauto.com/info/570/TrakMotive-Noise-Sumptoms-of-a-Worn-CV-Shaft-02.17.pdf   Anyone have experience with TrakMotive or GSP CV Axles?

@1004ron   I did not have the vibration/shimmy at acceleration, but a bad clunk. But based on your findings with the wear found on the axles, and as I had no other explanation for the clunking I got. Also the fact that the axle part numbers were superceded several times (at least 5), I went ahead and replaced the left side, OEM.  The clunking is finally fixed, at least about 80% of it. Also the Edge felt smoother. So I replaced the right side too. Even better.  Opening the inner bearings on both axles revealed similar wear. Both sides also had the grease come out in liquid form.    Left side:     Right side:  

Hey there. The cover panel under the glove box.. what is it? More importantly, what is the circular 'switch ' located on the bottom side of it? There's a couple of wires under the cover attached to it. Thanks!

I'll have a local guy, Jake LaMotta, do a custom dyno tune on it, once I get the parts on.  Minor ones were already installed.   The 50%/50% (keeps pressure on the turbos between shifts-only 50% vents to atmosphere). bypass valve, 170* Reisch thermostat, aFe PR5 Dry drop-in filter, CVF FMIC, are all mainly for Florida summers, not for power so much.   Trying to keep the stock exhaust as close to stock as possible ... in sleeper mode ... nice and quiet, yet powerful.     

I'm new to the turbo world.  Been through this upgrade process, when I had my previous low 11's 1999 Trans Am (below).   See my comments in the other thread you posted to.  I changed the exhaust 3 times before it hit the right note and flowed how I wanted it to.  Always open to your comments.    

Thanks for your comment's fellows.  I've found a few great quality wheels and tires which would shave off about 25 lbs. from each corner.  So, this weight reduction woulbe equivalent to about 500 lbs. of dead (un-sprung) weight.  My goal was to lighten up the vehicle a bit before doing more serious upgrades.  Have decided against the wheels for now, since a turbo upgrade kit would be about the same price.  I'll later buy a set of 16" Weld Drag Lite wheels and tires for the track.   Shooting for somewhere in the ballpark of 400 AWDHP/425 AWDTQ.  So far, I've done the Livernois MyCalibrator tune, TurboSmart 50/50 BOV, NGK LTR7BHX (95605) 1-level colder Spark Plugs, 170* thermostat, and aFe CAI PR5 Pro Dry drop-in filter.  Going forward mods are going to be CVF FMIC, then, upgraded turbos.   Anything more and I'd have to upgrade the fuel pump and injectors.       

The lighter wheels were an aid in handling. AKA road racing. It does this by reducing unsprung weight, so the suspension follows the irregular road surfaces better.  Now if you want to go around corners.........  

Hi all. I know this has been covered to death, but I had an idea.   I have a friend with a 2016 Edge 2.0l ecoboost with 106k miles, Cleveland engine.  It just started showing signs of the dreaded head gasket failure.  #1 spark plug has burnt coolant on it, intermittent P0301 code, rough idle on startup. She's on a tight budget and bought the car used from a private party, I seriously doubt any dealer is going to swap the long block for what she can afford, or for less than what the car is worth for that matter. I did some research.  Seems that Mustangs with the 2.3l of similar vintage have the same issue, same cause, particularly when modded.  I found a race shop on the web that sells a kit that supposedly fixes the problem.  It consists of a set of ARP head studs and a modified head gasket. I looked at the factory head bolts and they seem pretty wimpy.  So bad that they're even fully threaded.  I checked the part number and the 2.0l uses the same studs as the 2.3, so the ARP kit should work, although APR does not list the 2.0l as an application for them.  There are 2 ARP kits available, Pro Series (251-3701) for around $110 or CA625+ (251-4303) for about $400.  The race shop sells the CA625+ variant. I see that Ford lists 2 head gaskets for her car.  One that appears to be the original factory installed part (FB5Z-6051-A), and one that looks to be an improved version (HS7Z-6051-A) I couldn't find any notes regarding supersession or usage.  It could be that the later version is intended for the retrofitted long block (J2GZ6006E), but I'm not sure.  The older gasket has gaps in the sealing material that correspond with the slots in the block between the cylinders, the new one doesn't.   Given the situation, I'm considering replacing the head gasket with the improved version and installing the CA625+ studs.   I'm wondering if anyone has tried this approach before, and, if so, what were the results? If someone can confirm that the HS7Z-6051-A head gasket is compatible with the original engine block I would appreciate it.   Thanks Pete

Obviously, you have issue sin your transmission, just by your statement.   Did you know what you were buying into?  When you buy a car at auction, who knows what you are really getting.   Did you actually look up those codes: Code P0715   The P0715 code indicates a malfunction in the Input/Turbine Speed Sensor circuit, which can lead to issues like abnormal transmission operation and decreased fuel economy. It is important to diagnose the underlying cause, which may include a faulty sensor, wiring issues, or problems with the torque converter.   Code P0740 The P0740 code indicates a "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction," which can cause shifting issues, stalling, or reduced fuel economy. It's often due to low or contaminated transmission fluid, a faulty solenoid, or wiring problems.   Find yourself a good transmission tech.  This looks expensive

That depends.  Is your car overheating?  No, then save your money.   Today's engines are better designed than they were in your Pappy's days.  They are designed to work with specific parameters for optimum performance , with engine temps being just one of them.   The FMIC will lower the intake charge into the engine, as compared to the OEM FMIC.   Given all the questions you have been asking recently on engine upgrades, I don't think you have thought this whole thing through very clearly. FIRST THING:  You should come up with a clear goal of what you want, and set a budget.   Before you go hog wild buying parts, make your wish list and figure out how many thousands of dollars you are looking at putting into this project. Spending more money than you need to is money out the window.  Greater power is not necessarily equal to the amount of money you spend.