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I know this is a long post but please take the time if you have it. Thank You     Part One, Friends vehicle had intermittent charge system warning light. On inspection noticed junk positive terminal and replaced. Part Two, Few months later friend informed me that vehicle had to be started with a jump pack and shut down electric loads on the system to get him home. Part three, The PRELIMINARY repair steps. A. removed battery from the vehicle full charge and test reviled good battery. B. drove vehicle 10 miles to my place to start diagnostic. C. I consulted with my alternator expert and supplier about this alternator and we discussed possible issues and parts availability. Because I did not have the alternator in hand we could not pinpoint the regulator possibly needed. Being old school in some respects I removed alternator to get it on the test bench without any other tests on vehicle. (I have been burnt by hairline cracks and bad solder joints inside alternators before and always inspect them. D. I cracked the case for my own curiosity and nothing seemed problematic with visual inspection. I took it to the alternator shop and it was determined to be a good unit. E. Alternator installed and no problems for several minutes / miles. them it acted up. The HARD CORE diagnosis begins. A. Hooked the the unit up to a proper scanner and monitored GENCOM and GENMON everything looked good scanner reported no issues or faults. I am no good with multiple numbers flashing on the screen that are an attempted to describe a wave form (this is a problem with me not the equipment or information delivery technique)  I hooked up the oscilloscope to the GENCOM and GENMON and got proper wave forms. GENMON showed consistent frequency PWM and GENCOM showed consistant frequency PWM bursts when load characteristics changed. We also reset the BMS. So scanner shows no codes, no circuit faults and the wave forms look good! B. Believing that we had fallen victim to plug corrosion or seating I happily took out for a test drive monitoring the voltage with a simple OBD code reader. Everything was good till it stopped charging and threw warnings. C. The next day I hooked my bench top analogue scope to the scope to the GENCOM and GENMON using 10x probes in order not to affect the circuit I was measuring. (I only have access to the multi thousand dollar scanner during limited times by the grace of the auto mechanics school in my area.) Again the wave forms were excellent but I got lucky enough that I could force the system to fail with time and heavy load. (turned on AC and brights at idle). At this point one wave form flat lined on the rail (full on no PWM) and the other just chopped at %50 percent duty cycle and maybe 1 volt. In this abusive loading situation I would not expect the alternator to stop charging I would expect the alternator to give all it could and throw a battery light. And the fact is that it stops charging during driving RPMs as well. D. So this is a intermittent issue. I hooked the vehicle up to a high quality scanner and ran a system health check and it implied a P0620-00 GEN CONTROL error without the PCM actually throwing the code. With this information I ran the ShopKeyPro Pinpoint TestC: DTC P0620 which led me through the point to point wiring harness tests faults to ground and faults to Voltage tests. Shorted the GENMON and GENCOM and tested that there duty cycle stayed within %5 (this was a clever test) Used an actual bulb test light to make sure Vref could handle current at the alternator plug. Also per test instructions wiggled, pulled and poked all connections. Could not get this thing to give a bad reading. what a way to spend a Friday night. DTC E. My shop time was over for the week. I drove the Edge back to my place it erred out on the way so we had not gotten lucky by re seating the connections (PCM and Alternator) The next day I procured a different factory Ford / Mitsubishi alternator from a Ford edge so no voltage regulator incompatibility problems, installed it. I only started the car long enough to make sure it was charging.    So here I am Sunday morning about to go see if it is fixed. If It is not I don't know where to go except change out PCM and that means new car as this one is not worth it. I'd hate to give that advice when I am simply missing something.   Thank you Jeremy  

Well, that was fun . . . .    Just for yuks, I just did an internet search for the Ford Edge lug nut torque specs, for the years 2007 to 2024.   Depending on where you find the information, the torque spec ranges from a low of 79 ft/lbs  to  a high of 162 ft/lbs ( as shown in the Ford documentation ).   Where fh4ever had his Service Manager & Parts guy tell him that 162 ft/lbs is the correct answer, my purchasing dealer Service Tech told me 100 ft/lbs.   When in doubt, go with the Service Manual and hope the values specified for any item is correct.

I do the bulk fill the old way and the last part I do under vacuum, with all my vehicles regardless whether a procedure calls for vacuum filling.

I used the brush-on type as you described in the past.   Maybe I got a bad batch or maybe they changed formulas and then changed back again.  I have no idea.   If it has worked for you more recently than 10 years ago, maybe they improved it again.  More power to you if they had.

with some of today's engines, there is real possiblility of an air pocket remaining when refilled with coolant.  Air that is trapped and can cause an isolated overheat issue.  Vacuum refill ensures no air pocket remains.  It was recommended to me to do this on a 2006 Focus, which is why I bought the tool.  With a 2024 Edge, I don't want to take any chances ($$$$).    But yes, up until now all my vehicles were old enough to drain and simply pour in new coolant.  BTW, I dont think they worry about the thermostat.  All the coolant on the engine side should drain.  Maybe a little left over above the thermostat possibly.  But I think now the thermostats might have a small bypass opening built in , therfore it should drain above the thermostat too.  The only left over coolant after draining might be some in the heater core and the PTU cooler if equipped.   Make sense to y'all?    

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I'm just an irregular guy in Kentucky. I am into most things technical. A friend has me working on his 2014 3.5L Edge and it is really smashing my interest together. auto mechanics / motor control / electronics / computer repair / discrete automation / grease monkey attitude / educated and educator attitude / and heck ignorance too. (that is why I am seeking the forums assistance.)     Jeremy

Well my question would be, why do you still have it?  It seems like it's been nothing but trouble and a money pit.  Is there any reason you are keeping it?

We inherited an SEL with the dual automatic HVAC a little over a year ago.   The typical lousy heat, much worse on the driver's side.   From what I've been told, the last owner would typically start the car and let it run about ten minutes before driving it in the winter.   And (thankfully), the ridiculous engine-out water pump and why not the timing chain repair was done about two years ago.   Since we've had the car, I've only managed to improve the interior heat to merely disappointing.   It does have front seat heaters (SEL package?) and they do work but she doesn't want to use them.  Naturally.   Chronologically:   Replaced the cabin filter.  Needed replacing but not plugged or overly dirty. Drained coolant, disconnected the heater core hoses at the thermostat housing. Blew thru one end, with the other end draining thru a cone paint filter.  A small amount of debris. I assume if I can easily blow thru the open core with 60+ year old lungs, it's not even partially plugged. Three cycles of distilled water via vacuum fill, run, drain thru a cone paint filter. Added a quart of Motorcraft VC-1 coolant flush with distilled water via vacuum refilling. Ran it for about an hour, drained again thru a cone paint filter.  Even less debris recovered. Total amount of loose, coolant-colored calcium looking stuff: maybe the size of a gumball. Installed a new Motorcraft thermostat with the jiggle valve at 12:00. Vacuum-refilled with new Motorcraft coolant. Took for a test drive, seemed slightly better. Before and after this much, the car has always warmed up correctly via the dash panel gauge and doesn't overheat either. No coolant leaks.  Reservoir stays at filled max level.  No steam in the exhaust after warming up. Still not really acceptable to the Better Half. Removed left and right blend door actuators and replaced both with new Motorcraft. Cracked open the replaced drivers' side actuator: no broken teeth, no real wear or damage on the wiper/contacts. The driver side linkage moved by hand easily with the actuator removed. Both new actuators move when changing the temperature settings. Though I would love to see video or pictures of the blend door linkages at each end of their correct full travel. Pulled the kick panel HVAC fuse, ran the car for a bit, reinstalled the fuse. and no real change. Also never any glitches or drop-outs or lack of response from the HVAC controls. Did the system control reset thing several times but I think it only returned an 88 once. Clear, official instructions for resetting this generation of the automatic dual zone system with Sync seem hard to come by. The temps delivered by the car are about the same in both Dual on and off modes, at least from the drivers' experiences. The car has never directed air flow to the wrong locations when changing the controls.  The drivers' mode actuator does move. Looks near impossible to change anyway. Cycling the recirculation button results in the air door opening and closing. Also checked the key on engine off supply voltage to the in-car temp sensor: ~4.8V. Checked resistance across the disconnected sensor: fell within the range for the given ambient temp listed in the FSM chart. Good, as that part which was near impossible to find online is listed as no longer available. Temp aspirator tube is fully connected with no splits.  Also cleaned off the temp sensor before re-installation. The displayed outdoor temperature on the control panel does seem to match the actual exterior temps. Typical March: hot and cold weather.  AC also seems merely barely okay but hadn't tested during triple digits yet. Would like to have it recovered, the fill valve(s) replaced, and recharged to specs but nothing to do with poor heat I assume. Still not really accepted by the Better Half; can't blame her.   Not a big fan of this car. At all.   What have I missed?

I believe thereake be some confusion about Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer.   There are two different types (Stops Rust Rust Reformer and Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Reformer) and have different chemical formulations,  depending on the application method. Method #1 is an aerosol spray (consists of an oil-based,  alkyd formula), and Methoid #2, a brush-on liquid, which consists of a water-based copolymer (sort if a milky white liquid.) The brush-on takes rust and turns it into a flat black, inert primer.   The only type I've used is the brush on and have had good success with it. It stopped rust for years (until I sold the car.(