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I plan to do this procedure tomorrow. I plan to drain over a drain plug, remove the thermostat, connect the housing back and apply about 15-20psi air pressure trough the expansion tank to get rid of all the old coolant. Then I will install the thermostat back, vacuum the system and fill it up with a fresh coolant. But the question: if I will remove thermostat - it's going to leak there because of no thermostat(like 1mm thick) should I make some gasket(from thick paper or a plastic) and put in next to the thermostat o-ring?
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WACM – wireless charger. Connects to the HS3 bus and must be activated in the APIM. The installation method is improvised. Hardware: JX7T-19J235-BC
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Just a heads up and sorry if someone already posted this. Dorman offered this through Amazon and other places and though the pan ifts and no leaks with a felpro gasket, the sump design is a failure as it doesn't have the OEM style baffling. This results in oil starvation under hard acceleration. Maybe a decent diy fabricator could address this and add a baffling system, but otherwise, no go -
By 22CarbGrayElite · Posted
So far, so good… 30 mile ride home from the dealership and it ran smooth. Pretty sure the thump was gone. I am glad to have it back. That Bronco Sport wasn’t cutting it anymore, although the 34 mpg at times and the wide screen were nice. The dealership basically rebuilt the transmission in house, kept the OE converter and got fresh fluid. Would have been approximately $6500 out of pocket if not for the powertrain warranty. Time will tell. Now to get to finishing the stuff I started on it, along with my buddy’s recently acquired ‘98 C5 convertible and its “punch list” of stuff to do. -
By Samurai Edge · Posted
After 6 weeks or so, bet you are glad to finally have your car back. Hopefully it's fixed and runs as normal -
By 22CarbGrayElite · Posted
Got the call this afternoon that the Edge is done and ready to be picked up. Both the transmission tech and service advisor drove it and confirmed it is fixed. I will pick it up tomorrow morning on the way home from work. Fingers crossed everything is good now. I have some projects to finish on it now. -
I wouldn't say the lube totally cured it, but it helped a great deal. I recently had the brakes done (pads, rotors, both axles) and when I got it back the low speed squeaking started - so I suspected they had not lubed the slides or pad surfaces well enough or at all. I went back on this trip and had a can of purple ceramic permatex ready to use on the steering wheel. They did (I can see it) and I am convinced it helped a bunch. Now, I get a very slight squeak for just a second or two when slowing starting out - disappears at speeds above 5-10 mph.
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By Samurai Edge · Posted
Extensive cleaning is the norm when it comes to gaskets. I remember when they used to use a shellac as a sealant for the gasket on metal pans or anything else under the hood where two parts needed to be joined. If you wanted the new gasket to seal correctly, it was a pain getting the old shellac off. Most likely repeated leaks after service was due to the Tech, or the individual, not properly cleaning the area before re-sealing. It takes effort. Not a 5-minute job. When both are available, I use both a gasket and an RTV sealant. A gasket helps to prevent over tightening the pan bolts and squeezing out all the sealant. When no gasket is available ( or also with a gasket ) I have found the Perma-Tex Gray sealant to work really well with oil, or other liquids, like coolant. You just have to let the sealant cure enough to a " semi-solid " (?) before merging two pieces together. -
The issue used to be because the original pan and even several OEM updated versions depended on RTV gaskets that required extensive cleaning from possible contaminants and long cure/drying time that would eventually leak. Making an official fix unreliable. Ford later did come up with a Oil Pan with a press in gasket (instead of the RTV), so the official (latest) fix should be a good one with no need to look aftermarket, in my opinion. The fix differs between model years, for the 2015-2017 models is under TSB 24-2345 (link to details).
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By Samurai Edge · Posted
Ten extra HP doesn't really amount to much. One just has to remember if they are comparing apples to apples. In this case, as long as the numbers from Ford were from a dyno, and not advertised numbers you see in the brochures, then they are a little more comparable. If one is using the same vehicle, on the same dyno, on the same day, at the same time of day, by the same operator, using fuel from the same source, then the numbers would be directly comparable. There area lot of variables to consider when attempting to compare dyno numbers. People always don't understand this. The other thing to remember is that if you are comparing advertised numbers to dyno numbers, as opposed to actual dyno numbers, there is a parasitic drivetrain power loss between the motor and the wheels.
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