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lately I’ve been having trouble starting my car, and it’s occurred with these steps: 1.    ⁠Get in Car and dashboard screens come on 2.    ⁠Try to start it, lights (engine, seatbelt, battery, etc) all come on.Thee Engine will click but not turn over. Screens/Radio will all come on. 3.    ⁠Driver’s screen says “Full Accessory Power active” or “Press START to Brake” 4.    ⁠repeat this step a couple more times and the engine eventually turns over.   I’ve taken it to a mechanic, and they said that there was a parasitic draw with the battery. has anyone else ever had this issue? If so, what was the culprit? it also has a habit of saying that, even with a recently filled tank that the car is on “E.”

Got the Edge back Saturday.  Feels like brand new-ish again.  Steering is 100% better.  They replaced the rack unit and associated parts.  I did see in their notes they said the steering shaft was loose at the rack unit, hmm, yeah that's possible given the symptoms I experienced.  We'll see how things go, but so far so good, problem gone.  

Well, checked all connections both on BCM and the power distribution box in the engine compartment. No signs of corrossion, sprayed them with contact cleaner anyway. Still not working. Starting to regret buying this car. Any ideas?

Giving us more information will help a lot.  The model year is a good start.  Also I wider photo of the area where the plug is.

Hey guys I'm looking for a little clarification as to the origin of the noises described in some of the posts.  My 2016 Edge has 180,000 miles on it and has started making the noises and vibrations described in those posts.  Of course it is out of warranty and Ford has quoted the replacement of the rear differential at $3,950 (parts and labor).  I found a you-tube video where the mechanic says the noise and vibration when turning at slow speeds is coming from the 'clutch pack.'  The OEM part number he provided is CV6Z-4A232-A which is really called a 'viscous coupler'.  It is listed on Amazon as direct replacement parts I assume made in China for under $500.  My question is has anyone tried replacing the coupler first with either a China made or OEM part?  And if so what was the result?  Thank you in advance for your input!!

Hi all any help is always greatly appreciated  2014 edge 109K sel awd 3.5 new issue has happened 2xs driving on the HI way at normal speed 65-70mph small physical bump and then no accelerator and a orange wrench on the dash hazards and coast to shoulder and shut down for a few minutes restart and all is fine like it never happened, no active code, no stored code, dealer found nothing related to this  any ideas thanks

A month or two ago, my car threw multiple errors at me completely out of the blue when I started it: Service AdvanceTrac & Collision Warning Malfunction popups and ABS & AdvanceTrac Off/Disabled indicator lights. It disabled cruise control in the process, I'm sure because of the collision warning issue.    Other weirdness happened that I've since learned was because my battery was dying, so that's been replaced, as has the battery in my remote fob.    We took the car to AutoZone for a scan, but they didn't give us anything very useful, just reset the ABS battery high/ABS battery low codes and mentioned something seemingly unrelated to these errors that my husband has forgotten now. My husband finally located the old SCT Flash unit he used to tune his diesel F350 and connected it to my Edge, but it's only saying "no codes found." (He did have a separate OBD-II device to connect our non-diesel vehicles straight to his laptop, but we can't find it, so tried this one.) We cleared everything anyway, restarted the car, and every error came right back up.   It is currently in the process of downloading 4821 updates. 🤣 Maybe one of those will help, but I'd been intending to post here for days. Does anyone have a clue what could be going on here? I do have a bent strut and a front right wheel that's constantly out of alignment, but that's been an issue for 2 years now while we've gone back and forth on whether and how to get it fixed. If that has finally affected the wheel speed sensor, could that alone be causing all these errors, even though that error code isn't coming up? What else could it be?

Is there a way to mostly drain the coolant system? I remove the drain plug and reservoir cap and only half comes out. Is there a bleed screw? I think it’s only on the 4 cylinder. Would an evac kit like this get it out? https://a.co/d/98lJ9b8 I can get a vacuum pump from O’Reillys but I can’t figure out attachments to evac the coolant. Or is it just drain fill repeat, drain fill repeat… 

Welcome, and congratulations on the new car.  I'm betting you took the picture with an iPhone.  You'll need to save it to a computer, then find a program that will open it and save it correctly.  I use Picasa to do it.  I just open it, make sure it is oriented the right way, then save it back to the computer.  

All I did to level was remove the bumper cover. Park on level surface. Use bubble level vertically and horizontally. The programming drive takes care of any minor misalignments.