jwallace410

Wow thank you for your help

I believe this mifht have been covered on another post in the Sync Forum but I am curious about how previous owners could possibly grt their hands on the new Sync 3. From what I read, Ford was talking about the new system to be close to an android style setup where you can pinch and stretch to zoom and the screen navigation speed to be comparable to latest cellphone speeds. I wonder if Ford would be able to just send us a software update to change the systems over or would owners have to look at installation of new hardware (processors, harddrive,ect.) I doubt a simple flash and software update would fix the general slowness of the sync system in the 2011+ vehicles. Im not very savvy when talking about computers so Im alasking the forum community for some info on the possibility of us Ford owners getting ahold of the new Sync3 which looked quite nice from what i've seen and read.

Actually the front rotors go for around $29/front & $260/rear for the EBC slotted rotors. Add about another hundred for drilled or dimpled rotors. And yea my rims got really curbed up in this last ice storm in MD.. driveway was tracked in then refroze, and driving back through destroyed the chrome foil wheels.

The first picture is the old rear Powerstop drilled & slotted rotors. Notice how the slots do not cut all the way out to the edge of the rotor. The second and third picture are the EBC Slotted Ultimax rotors installed, the third showing the slot cut all the way to the edge of the rotor. And the fourth pic shows the EBC rotors side by side showing the thickness of the surfaces. I think it says THK .26 along with the part number stamped in.

So I ordered two new EBC slotted rotors from AutoAnything.com and with the promo code for 10% off it brought the total to $266 and some change. I had prevoiusly bought the EBC GreenStuff pads for trucks/SUV's to go with the new setup. They came with the new Black coating rather than the yellow zinc.

The pads and rotors were installed and coming from the cheap slotted n drilled rotors I had before, I must say theres already a noticeable improvement. The install went smoothly and now i'm in the bedding process, which is just smooth braking for the next 300-400 urban driving miles. The last rotors were already warped and they were just installed this last summer/fall. These EBCs are incredibly smooth. They grab nicely. The peddle is a little touchy at first but after the first 100 miles you get normal peddle feel back and its a geltle glide to a stop. I cannot overstate how smooth these EBCs are.brake dust seems to be low so far but I will post an update after the bedding process is over. I also used the supplied grease for the backs of the pads that contact the caliper and piston. Under easy braking i can still feel the rear brakes being applied and have noticed that they feel a little warped as well. Never again will I buy another rotor and pad setup besides OEM or these EBC's. The previous set was powerstops all the way around, the entire kit being $360ish. Lastly the new slotted rotors look nice behind the stock Limited wheels. And i noticed that the slots are cut all the way out to the edge of the rotor rather than stopping with 1/4" before the edge of the rotor like the Powerstops.

I not sure if this is on topic but ive been curious about this idea for awhile. The 2011 n up taurus sho has a 3.5l but twin turbo, would that turbo set up be able to be transplanted into the edge. I figure the main issue being engine bay room and the fwd set up but has anyone else had this idea? And as far as mods? Halo headlights, CAI( which I believe k&n offers one now) , throttle body, exhaust manifolds/ headers n all, tune, fuel injectors and possibly underdrive pulleys. All simple bolt ons for the most part except injectors. But a small turbo set up like the sho would be the best bet for adding power to the edge id think. ( just a thinker not a mechanic)

Do you have any experience with talking to companies for a discounted rate on group buys, especially from forum members like this here? Curious to know how that works... and ill post pics after installation.

I bought the powerstop kit for under 400$ and deff had bad luck with them. I bout em maybe 5 months ago, if that and have major vibration under any braking, so theyre shot already. Just a heads up. Im planning on going with the EBC Setup this coming week with Hawk HPS Pads as plenty of good reviews from people with experience beyond the initial install.

Just curious but looking on some parts websites I seen dual piston calipers for the edge sport, and was wondering if they come stock on the sports or if its an upgrade. The second question would be if the sport has dual piston calipers how hard would it be to pit them on an edge limited? Afterall most brembo kits for these vehicles are 2 piston calipers, pads, drilled high quality rotors and braaided steel lines right. All of which can be had for way under 3,000+ bucks

How many miles on the vehicle. Ive got a good bit on mine and im replacing my CV Axle which creaks when turning sharply. If it get progressively worse without the caps working for you, might wanna check on that. Hole ir helps.

I bought the Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors after warpong my autozone rotors in short order. The entire kit was $350-$400 for front and rear with pads. After the correct break-in process rhese rotors are shot after maybe 5 months being generous. Ive come to the co clusion that any rotor not over $100a pc ( over $200 for both sides) is made of cheap steel/iron and to buy cheap rotors is a waste of money. I say this because everytime I have over 50-60% pad left but the rotors are shot, even a namebrand but cheap drilled rotor like Powerstop. Im going to spend my money right and buy the Ultimax Rotors from EBC with either EBC Redstuff pads or Hawk HPS pads. Theyre much more expensive than even the Ford Motorcraft rotors and OEM pads but I drive pretty hard/sporty so.

The OEM brake set-up seemed to last for a good while from the factory when I bought the vehicle but since first replacements without ford parts has been downhill. So I plan to install the new EBC set-up this coming week and will post wear results in a few months. So note to everyone, dont buy cheap rotors, drilled and slotted or not. Best bet is to buy Ford Motorcraft OEM rotors and pads or Drilled/ slotted rotors from a reputable company like EBC or Brembo with the rotors costing over 100$ a piece, unfortunately. Hope this helps cause the money I dumped on powerstop rotors a few months ago was a waste of $400 all the way around. And BTw, 2011 Ford Edge Limited eith 20" wheels iss my vehicle.

Earlier this year i was in an accident that involved replacing the driver. Side glass. With the ice we had this winter, i tried rolling down the window and it popped off track. I pulled the door panel and found out that the body shop who did the work failed to set the window properly.

On another post id seen that there are rubbe. Grips on the clips attaching to the bottom of the window on the regulator and if thats the case, this shop didnt even use the rubber grips. My question is could i use the same grips vfor the window on my 2011 edge but from an earlier body style. Tryna avoid junkyard hunting and a bunch of running and buying a new regulator priced at. 107$

My experience with the PowerStop Drilled/Slotted rotors along with the Evo ceramic pads is that they are excellent and well worth the money! Brakes from Autozone or wherever came with frequent replacement due to hard pads eating up soft rotors with frequent highway driving and braking. I recently replaced mine with the PowerStop kit all way round and after performing the suggested break-in process for the pads, along with moderate braking for the next 100 miles (just my own idea) these drilled and slotted rotors with Evo ceramics work like a dream.

Such a noticeable decrease in braking distance and smooth feel even under very hard stops. Im in love with them! Thats alot of weight to stop (2011 Ford Edge Limited w/ 20" wheels) with no fade or squealing or vibration. I did put some grease between the backside of the pads and the caliper pistons to help with stopping vibrations as well.

My suggestion to any Ford Edge owner if you're looking to upgrade your brakes or even replace them, spend the few extra bucks. Because these powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and Evo pads are worth every penny. I drive my edge really hard, it being a 2011 woth 136,000 miles already should show that.

Now I had bought these rotors and pads from a different site than Cd3 for $355 and some change but they offered a one day sale which included 10% off and free shipping. From what i can see CD3 is offering the same product. So I woyld definitely invest in this brake kit. If you want a little sportier feel to your brakig and the look of these drilled rotors behind ur Chrome wheels, get em, well worth it

yeah I was just getting ready to ask the same question as you about the Microsoft Zune issues. I have had occasional issues with it having to do an Index before it will play but since I did the new Sync update via flash drive, the Sync system takes forever to index my zune. Sometimes it will pick up right where the song was when I shut it off last but most of the time I have to wait almost 20 minutes for the system to stop saying "Indexing Device..." before I can hear music. The actual Zune is fine, but the issues started with the latest update download off of the sync website. Also I notice that occasionally when the sync has to index the device again, my Ambient Lighting will default back to the teal color rather than the blue I have chosen for my default. But looks like Slick says that theyre no longer doing Zune support so guess were SOL. At least I still have my Galaxy S2 w/ MicroSD and plenty of music to play via blutooth... still sucks that the zune is becoming obsolete to sync...

I have a 2011 Ford Edge LMTD with over 100,000 mi on it, yeah I drive alot, but for probably the last 15,000 miles i've noticed some noise coming from the front suspension. I took a few laps around the block and narrowed down certain situations. It only makes the noise when under throttle and turning sharply. It doesnt make the sound while in the throttle (straight or in a slight turn) or under braking. Also I can make sharp turns idling or just above without the sound. It sounds like a creaking old ship or something but like i said, its mainly while making sharp turns and torquing the throttle. Not sure if its related but also have alot ofvibration while braking (figured thats just rotors) and a slight pull to the right. Lastly, I notice the sound turning either direction. If anyone has any pointers it would be appreciated. Thanks alot!

how was the ride changed when you added the new H&R Springs? Was the ride better or worse, some say its too bouncy, what do you think. I want to buy the springs and the KYB Shocks just curious of ride quality.

I just recieved what I believe are the Type 1 switchbacks,(run white, blink white/amber) from V-LEDS and i absolutely love them. I almost wanna ride with my hazards on to show them off, lol. They look good with the rear and map lights being LED's as well. Next is the DRL's and the Puddle Lamps. Thanks to Dingo or Cellbine, or whoever found these lights.

Ive talked to a buddies shop and after putting my 2011 edge on the lift, theyre going to remove the muffler in the middle and replace with a straight pipe then the pipe splits into two more mufflers before the curve then tips. They said they want to replace two rear mufflers with flowmaster 40 series and keep the tips. I seen a video with an old edge 3.5 with magnaflow amd sounded terrible. I have the feeling flowmasters might be the same but will post videos after works done. Theyre charging $200 flat for parts n install. Im prob wrong but arent flowmasters more for v8's rather than v6's? If thats the case wouldnt i be better going with some ricer mufflers like greddy or such for a better sound. Btw theyre just changing out.the mufflers and eliminating one in the middle muffler/resonator

You need to get a whole new projector setup while doing a retrofit. Since you are looking at TRS I would recommend the FX-R projectors with the clear lens upgrade. Also get their morimoto 55w ballasts. I would not get a 6000K bulb though as it will not be that bright and the blue light doesn't travel as far. If you want a clean white light and the most lumens go with the OSRAM 66240 CBI 5000K bulb. Aftermarket bulbs tend to color shift too much and they often don't match the same color from bulb to bulb. Always use OEM bulbs wherever possible.

Thanks for the clean cut kit for the guy that dont know too much bout these things, lol. Its funny im kicking my own a** cause i realized how bright the lights were last night after i finally removed the tint and they are so much brighter. Im actually happy with them for the moment, but i think ill either get that kit or wait till they develop the D3S stuff. Thanks for the info!

sorry i apologize for the name calling, but i decided to man up, and remove the tint, black out the housing and retrofit the projectors. will post pics once i find some more info. can you tell me exactly what i need because i feel dumb as im looking through the retorfit source and so on. I know i want the 50W ballast, and the 6000k bulb. the Mazda 3 lens looked the best when it came to the color in the cutoff line, but do i need to buy a new projector as well. im a total newb when it comes to this stuff. I would greatly appreciate any info you could provide. sorry once again.

Yeah try pulling the fuse out, and putting it back in. i believe its a 20 amp fuse and its number 29, double tap by looking in the manual, that should fix a frozen screen. does for me. 2011 edge

Night Time Photos w/ tint

ABsolutely sick looking edge, from those rims to the lights. It looked like the projectors you had in one of the first pics had the halos around the projector? not sure if it was just the pic or not. Also how did you get the lights to look so blue? is it that the HID"s in the sport are different than the HID's in the Limited cause mind look no where near that blue before the tint. Im going to do the same, paint the lens inside and remove the tint on outside to keep light efficiency. Sorry but all this is new to me, totally tricked out tho. and what type of wheels were they? the grey/ powdercoated looking wheels in the 2-3rd pic?

I didnt buy the roll of tint out of wlmart or anything. I belive the percentage was around 35-40%. I mean ythe lights are more clear than the stock tint on my rear windows. Maybe its the pics from my cel phone but in person they arent really that dark. I bought the tint of e-bay and they came pre-cut to the specific year n model. they offered darker but igot the lightest possible. I will post pics at night to show you.