4doorharley

Any update on this? Our 2011 (124k miles) sport is doing this pass side also. Thought was brakes, replaced, still there. Found bad sway bar bushing due to leaking power steering filter, replaced, still there. End links were good at that time also. Im stumped Lol.

Reflash TSB help mine out. But mine was only doing it every now and then.

2nd time it happen to me, I put it in manual and noticed it was stuck in 3rd gear. And every other time it happen, was in 3rd gear again.

Here is a shot of it out...and tucked under fusebox

Mine has aftermarket HID's and no factory drl's. I will slide the relay back out and snap a picture of it and the area I used.

What do you need a picture of? Because there isnt much to see, as everything but wires going to the battery are the only ones you can see lol. But don't care to snap a picture of what you need.

 

 

 

I was not totally happy with the length of the passenger side wire either. It took me a little time routing the wire in various positions to find the best path. It would be helpful, but not absolutely necessary, if one of you who couldn't run along the back to send me the measurement of your passenger side DRL wire, so I can see if it is shorter than mine.

 

I will be measuring all of the harnesses I have in inventory to see if there are any short wires. I know this doesn't help you guys, but we are adding an addition 24 inches to the passenger side DRL wire. I would rather have a little extra slack to wire tie up than to have to spend time coming up with a complex wiring strategy.

 

I routed my pass side wire with the factory harness that runs engine side of the radiator. Had more than enough wire. I also zip tied the relay to the hood release cable and slide it under the fuse box. Only done this because of the short ground wire. The ground wire was my only problem/concern with my kit.

Just want to clarify something. You followed all of the other wiring instructions and the only change you made was to tap the headlight (white) trigger wire into the parking light wire, correct? And this allowed the DRL LEDs to turn on and off without the key turned on, with the same lighting sequence as the stock accent lights? I'm trying to figure out how that could work, since the DRLs are powered through my wire harness relay that uses an ignition circuit to turn on and off. If the relay does not see current from the ignition circuit in the fuse box, the relay will not send power to the DRLs and the LEDs would not be able to come on as you described. Which fuse slot number did you use to connect the ignition wire to? I am very interested in figuring this one out.

 

In any event, your courtesy light solution should be perfectly fine. Even at 70% of full brightness, my EDGE-2s are many times brighter than the stock accent light pipe, wouldn't you agree.

 

I used the 93 spot for the fuse box tap.........I thought this also(about the relay) until I noticed with the keys out and headlights on, the drl 70% was still lit up. So I swapped the white wire from the headlight circuit to the parking light circuit and it worked like I wanted.

I used a small spade connector on the white wire and inserted it into the positive side of the factory pipe light plug, for this install. You can use the parking light wire on the plug you tap into for turn signal also.....pass side and drivers side = yellow with blue stripe(center wire in plug).

Just installed mine and love them.

But I ran into a little issue. I was wanting to keep the courtesy light of the factory setup....pipe light comes on when open door or unlock....you lose this with the edge2's drl when wired by instructions.

So instead of wiring up the white wire(headlight trigger) to the headlight circuit. I instead tapped into the parking light circuit.

The only down fall to this as I see it now is....You will go to 70% brightness when parking lights are on and when doors are open. This is something I can live with to keep the drl's working as courtesy light also.

Fuse box is the one next to the battery.

Yes, I did the research on them.

And the majority of used ones are left side. Funny thing is the price of the right side is 5$ higher than the right, when buying new.

No, they only come in black plastic or primed to paint. I thought they would come painted also until I started looking for one.

We have a 2011 Platinum white sport. Somehow the right side mirror cap has disappeared(think happened at carwash).

Question is: Should I buy another cap and paint it back to match? = about $110 if I paint it.

Or, buy 1 for each side and keep them black? = about $55