damitche

Evap refers to the evaporation system:

fuel filler and cap

fuel tank pressure

canister purge

 

0x2b indicates vapor pressure

0x56 shows a misfire

 

DTC codes would be more helpfull.

 

The system had a leak which could be as simple as not having the fuel cap on properly.

 

Richard and Barbie

I found what I was looking for (eventually) on the Motorcraft website. I think it is VERY COOL that Ford puts this information out there.

I was looking for the source because a friend of mine (on a budget) was having her MIL lamp (and some codes) in her Taurus; she wanted to know if this was a "big problem" or if she NEEDED to see the dealer. I wanted to provide sources of information so that she could make that decision for herself.

Thanks for the help!!!!

What I found was the "OBD System Operation Summary for Gasonline Engines"; although one has to peruse it a bit to extract the information (just search the .PDF for "$28", or P1151 for example), it is a VERY good source for what I was looking for.

"Does anyone know of a website where information on the meaning behind TIDs is located?"

The webpage (today) was http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/ret...p;menuIndex1=17

The direct link (today) was http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/dia...df/OBDSM701.pdf

For those so inclined, you can get a month worth of access to more service information from Motorcraft for about $17.00. (That's cool!)

I read an online car magazine article a while ago that indicated Ford makes available to the public a list of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and Test Ids (I've forgotten where I found the article).

I'm having trouble finding such a published source.

I'm trying to find out the meanings behind some TIDs my OBDII reader is showing...

Does anyone know of a website where information on the meaning behind TIDs is located?

I'm showing 0x26, 0x2a, 0x2b; one website I found shows "EVAP" next to these, and "Misfire" next to the 0x56 code but no other information.

(Does EVAP refer to the fuel evaporation and canister system?)

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Almost all dealers charge something like that outside of A/Z/X plan purchases. You've probably paid it and never realized it.

If you pay more than $28,160 for it, then you paid too much!

Just purchased my Ford Edge.

 

Gotta say that I've driven GMs, Fords, Volvos, Toyotas, Volkswagens, Chryslers, Subarus, but I haven't seriously looked at Ford for a new car in at least 15 years.

 

I was very surprised when I looked at the Ford Edge; Ford has (finally?) made a really good product. Just have to wait and see how it holds up over time. Dollar for Dollar, I think it appears (so far) to be the best product out there!

 

All vehicles have issues of one type or another; 200 miles into this one, and my fuel cap indicator comes on (I haven't touched it for new gas yet). Dealer is getting parts. Car seems to run the same, I'm still driving it just fine as we wait on the parts to come in (fuel canister and some valve thing-a-ma-jig). Seems a rare event based on industry reports I've read.

Me again... So the dealer replaced the Fuel Vapor Canister and a Fuel Vapor valve, but my technician says it is still "showing the code" (when they run diagnostics). They called Ford, who told them to replace the main computer module (PCM, PWM? etc. I'm sure it's an expensive item).

Waited a few days for that to come in. It's now in, and all seems fine.

Was a nuisance to have to make trips to the dealear, but I understand... They gave me the rental when I needed it, etc. (though, a Ford Focus might be ok for my daughter, I wouldn't want one for myself; zippy little car though)....

The adventure continues... Hope nothing else goes wrong.... I really like that Ford Edge... I like driving it more than driving my wife's Highlander, and more than my Volvo V70....

Maybe if you're willing to take a vehicle the dealer wants to get rid of or one that is selling slowly. If a dealer sells you a Ford on X plan they're making the 3% holdback minus about $100 plus the spiff check from Ford which I think is around $400. If they sell you the same vehicle let's say, $100 below X plan price, then they make 3% holdback minus $200 - period. No spiff check.

 

What most people either don't realize or simply overlook is without X plan the dealer can charge a documentation fee (usually around $400) and they can keep dealer cash or include factory rebates in that price that they would not otherwise be able to do on a X plan sale.

 

Unless you get a true "out the door" X plan price and compare it to a non X plan "out the door" price then you don't really know if you beat the X plan price or not because the dealer can play games and hide fees.

 

Not saying it isn't possible, but it's highly improbable that you'd beat the real X plan price out the door on a popular vehicle.

"...willing to take a vehicle the dealer wants to get rid of or one that is selling slowly". Yes, you are correct; like buying 1-of-the-4 1999 Models still sitting on the lot in Feb. of 2000, or buying a loaded model near the last day of a soft month, in a geographic-based market that has fair demand for base models, but slow demand for the pricey ones.

If one is knowledgeable and shrewed...

Just purchased my Ford Edge.

Gotta say that I've driven GMs, Fords, Volvos, Toyotas, Volkswagens, Chryslers, Subarus, but I haven't seriously looked at Ford for a new car in at least 15 years.

I was very surprised when I looked at the Ford Edge; Ford has (finally?) made a really good product. Just have to wait and see how it holds up over time. Dollar for Dollar, I think it appears (so far) to be the best product out there!

All vehicles have issues of one type or another; 200 miles into this one, and my fuel cap indicator comes on (I haven't touched it for new gas yet). Dealer is getting parts. Car seems to run the same, I'm still driving it just fine as we wait on the parts to come in (fuel canister and some valve thing-a-ma-jig). Seems a rare event based on industry reports I've read.

I know there are exceptions to every rule, but it always seemed to me that you are generally correct to play by them. I am aware of several plan buyers that decided they didn't have to play by the rules and got charged back the commission that Ford paid to the dealership on their vehicle. (look at the elements that you agree to, in order to get the deal!) The employees that lost their privileges usually got them back after a couple of years. It wouldn't be worth it to me - but I guess I'm a Wuss.

 

After Ford make such a deal over Blue Oval brokering pins, I'm sure they would like to find instances where the rules were broken, just to make examples.

I work for a supplier to the automotive industry, and am part of GM's plan, Chrysler's plan, and the Ford X plan. I have also purchased 6 new vehicles over some years. I find that if you are a shrewd and knowledgeable buyer, these plans actually can hold you back. I have consistently gotten better deals (better deals for me) with shrewd negotiating than with these plans. (Granted, you have to be prepared to walk out of some dealerships; some just simply won't sell at the price you might want (but there is ALWAYS one that will if there is any profit at all in it for them).