edgesportguy

After 100k? No brakes last a 100k even under normal driving conditions. I'll be happy even if I only get 40k

15k mile update on my Power Stop brake kit!

My leased 2013 Edge Sport developed a shudder you could feel in the steering wheel under braking from warped front rotors at about 12k miles. Two Edge rentals I drove and my current 2013 Edge Sport with 25k miles all had the same condition of warped front rotors and it seems this is a common issue.

I'm a rather "spirited" driver and have a heavy foot. It seems the OEM and basic aftermarket rotors all have a tendency of easily warping under heavy driving conditions. Since this drove me nuts I decided to check out the Power Stop Z23 Evolution K5452 brake upgrade kit which includes front & rear drilled/slotted rotors, related hardware, and ceramic brake pads.

I found the kit on sale for a little over $300 and couldn't possibly be any happier with the results. In addition to a significant improvement in stopping power the rotors are still completely true after 15k miles of hard driving, and the pads are wearing great and generate very little brake dust on the wheels.

Kudos to Power Stop for a great product, great performance and a great dollar for dollar value! I'm really impressed with these brakes and strongly recommend this kit for our Edges!

Have been distracted for awhile. The wheels are still available and need to go ASAP! Call or text Rik at 860 558 2037

A] you are sure the springs weren't installed incorrectly/in reverse, and B] is there any sag in the rear suspension? How is the behavior on bumpy roads? Please post pics of your Edge, and also measure the height from the road to the top of the fenderwell, front & rear.

The front & rear springs are completely different and couldn't be swapped even by accident. The fronts drop a 1/4" less than the rear, and a measure of the before and after confirms this is the case. The front should be a bit higher in any case as this helps to better distribute the weight from front to rear more evenly and reduces the tendency of the nose diving under heavy braking

Ttt

You are looking for a unicorn.

Yeah, I'm figuring I'm going to have to get a new bumper eventually and get it painted as my Sport is the only red one I have ever seen.

EBay is a good source for used parts, but the bumper for 2007-2010 is different than 2011-2014 models. Also the mirror is different starting late 2011 or 2012 (don't remember exactly) the Edge photo you posted has the newer style mirror (smaller style).

Thanks for the heads up.

I'm look for a 2008 -2013 Edge Sport front bumper and passenger side mirror cap (or entire mirror) in very good to excellent condition. Must be the OEM Ruby Red color

Thanks

I can now confirm the Yoko Parada Spec X's are great in the snow & sleet

I've got about 6k miles on the Z23 kit now and absolutely love it. Awesome improvement over the stock brakes

Any reasonable offers out there?

BTW - I'm running 275/45/20's as part of a wheel & tire package that I replaced my 22's with. Only $146 a tire!

Only have had a chance to drive them once in the snow - and they were way better than the stock Pirelli's! I personally hate Blizzak style tires because they are waaay to mushy feeling & unresponsive for my driving style. These Yoko's are more like the Michelin Pilot Alpin Sport winter tires I ran on my G37s.

About 7k miles with no visible treadware so far. Will keep you posted though

I love the Yokohama Parada Spec X's I got at Tire Rack.

Decent ride with great dry & wet traction and aggressive handling when you want it

will post it in FEWW

?

I replaced my 22"s with some aftermarket 20's when I lowered my Edge Sport last year and am finally getting around to selling these. wheels. Prefer to sell as full set at $1,000, or will separate as priced below

I got these wheels as new warranty replacements last year and with about 2k on them, but thanks to another knucklehead driver and a granite parking curbed one side is rashed pretty bad. I had the two curb rash wheels looked at and confirmed no bends or cracks and quoted $200 each to repair

Tires, lug nuts, and TPMS sensors are all included.

1 wheel - perfect $500

1 wheel - 2 small scratches which aren't even visible from 5ft away. No curb rash - $375

2 wheels with curb rash about 2/3 around the wheels. $200 each

or - $1,000 firm for full set

Tires have about 15 - 25% tread left and all TPMS sensors are good.

Local pick up or I will drive to meet you somewhere within an hour or so drive of Springfield MA for the cost of my gas.

I'll try to post the pic's in the correct order as described above

Please call or text me at 8 six 0 five 5 eight 2 0 three 7 in case I don't happen to check my email in a couple of days

Buying a quality HID kit like this Morimoto Elite - and proper adjustment are the key to not blinding oncoming drivers - not to mention the plug and play harness including the relays being a breeze to install

These have a super clean beam pattern cut off on top and I have never had an oncoming driver flash me with their highs in the 6 months I've had them installed

I liked my 2013 Sport so much I that I actually bought a used 2013 Sport just like it when it was time to turn in my lease. I've always owned sport coupes and was dreading getting an SUV 3 years ago. I and drove most of the mid-sized SUV's on the market and the 3.7 in the Sport had the best acceleration and handling of everything I drove, though I really liked the Infiniti FX37's power too, but it was too small and too pricey. I drove the Edge Sport and fell in love with it. The power, handling, panoramic roof, cargo space (especially the fact that all the seats including the front passenger seat fold flat) and the mean black grill & 22's sealed the deal.

My only complaint is that the brake rotors seem to warp really easily - a rental, my leased one, a demo loaner, and my most current one have warped front rotors and drifted a bit.

Of course since I can never leave anything alone, my solution was the StopTech Evolution rotor & pad kit - along with H&R lowering springs, new struts and after market wheels. The Pirelli's were pretty shot and I had 2 curbed wheels and I was able to replace them with a 20" Verde & Yokohama combination for the same price as new tires and repairing the wheel.

Love the result!! Even better acceleration since the new wheel/tire combo is 7lbs lighter per wheel (less rotational mass) No more drift so far, no brake pulsation, more stopping power, lower stance, handles great and looks great!!

Just an update now that I've got about a thousand miles on the PowerStop pad & rotor kit. Very happy with them - considerable improvement in stopping power, no fade even after some repeated hard braking, and far less brake dust on the wheels than the OEM pads

Just a quick question and not trying to be rude. You are in a lot of these HID upgrade threads and always saying that this is a bad idea, is not an upgrade, doesn't look good, etc.

 

if you aren't a fan of this mod, why do you keep browsing this section of the forums?

I recently upgraded to the PowerStop Z23 Evolution cross-drilled & slotted 4 wheel kit. Definitely a noticeable difference in stopping power and haven't experienced any fade yet, but haven't really taken it for a hard romp yet

/http://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-z16-kit/

You don't determine what side the rotor is for by the way slots are swept. They can go either way. The internal vanes are what decides which side the rotor goes on.

You bring up a great point Nick.and are totally correct. I'm glad you brought this up before I started tearing things apart.

My initial reaction was based on the tech who did the alignment pointing out that the fronts were on wrong and that it'll chew up the brake pads. Seemed to make sense considering the rears were in the opposite direction and looked correct.

I assumed 3 things:

1. the PowerStop Evolution discs had directional vanes (rears aren't vented) Wrong

- I didn't recall seeing directional vanes and just checked again with a flashlight. Looks like they are just straight vanes

2. that the drill & slot sweep pattern goes in the same direction as the vanes. Not always

- Porsche (no dig meant - just coincidence), AeroRotors, & others have the pattern is in the opposite direction

3, that the slots are supposed to be swept (inside to outside) in the same direction as rotation No, Yes, Doesn't Matter

- As Nick pointed out the internal vanes, not the direction of the slots when present, determine which side the rotor goes on IF they have directional vanes, The slots are typically cut across the direction of the vanes for strength so they are actually sweeping inward instead of outward.

Slotted rotors {non-vented or straight vane only} - Different answers depending where you look

Here's a pic of a PowerStop rotor showing the Pass Side sticker like mine, but the slots go in the opposite direction

A majority of the images I looked at (even on PowerStops's site) and cars I've seen have the slots swept back from the center like I thought.they go. Some sites or uTubes say that's correct, have reasons, and one even shows supposedly the difference in brake pad wear.

Most car tech or brake manufactures sites show them the other way though, and say it doesn't matter which direction the slots are swept on non-directional rotors.

Since the overall consensus is that the direction of the slots does not matter on these rotors I'm tempted to not switch anything. The sad truth is that it'll irk me so much every time I look at them that I'm going to end up swapping them since I also need to check the run out on the rotors again as I have a slight vibration now.

I'm still really ticked at PowerStop over all this BS and wasted time. Someone was obviously having an off day when they labeled my rotors and packaged the caliper hardware.

That would tick me off! Are the rotors the same thickness all the way round? I have heard occasional complaints they are not.

I didn't check thickness, but there was very little run out which I attributed more to how the rotor was seated on the spindle No brake vibration at all once I bedded the pads and re-torqued all the lug nuts

"All this is only achievable with correct tire pressure all the way around." - Np brainier on that one unless your running different camber and lower pressure on the outsides on a predominantly right turning course "I just know from my auto crossing friends who have told me" to never measure and drop from fenders. Everyone has their differences...just another way of doing things. "I do know Porsche measures their factory race cars the way I described" Really? Can you explain some of these facts to us laymen so we can do it correctly on our EDGES You "know"? -with facts? other than a stcok 911, to a Caymans S with PASM, a 911 Turbo, to a GT3 widebody, to a full track car will all be different

 

Lighten up man

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH! Just noticed this today! %#!*#! PowerStop!
First they F* up and package the wrong hardware in with the opposite brake pads. Now this!

Can anyone tell me what's wrong with this picture?

Hint 1: The rotor is marked "Pass Side" and this is a pic of the passenger side (caliper is on the front)
Hint 2: The wheel spins in what direction?
Hint 3: The rotor slots are swept in what direction?

At least the rears are on the right sides

Lesson: Don't believe everything you read on the label, and don't put you're car back together at 2:30a.m. (about 4 hrs after 8eer:30 p.m.) after a 14hr work day

Or maybe it's just because I didn't measure the ground clearance the way Porsche does it. Though I'm wondering now if it's the same process on a PSAM equipped 911, Cayman S, etc