coronan

Awesome work Brian!

Can you clean it up and check the pattern with gear marking compound?

Do you have a dial indicator to check backlash?

If you put a magnetic drain plug in the bottom: You will be amazed how much more metal shavings it finds than the top plug!!!

Oh, Great.

Thanks!

How do i shorten the information in the left column? The one with all my info. It seems to take up an unruly amount of space for short replies.

Thanks!

Ironpedeler;

What were your symptoms?

I'm doing What Ford Should have.

Extra Heat Shielding for the PTU shaft seal.

The piece of sheet metal i added is about 3.5" x 5.5"

If i had to make it again I would only make 5" long.

The shield now spans the entire width of the Exhaust pipe and will limit heat from radiating up.

Work Smarter; not Harder.

Mac,

What are you paying to have your transmission flushed?

Are you getting full synthetic oil?

How long does it take round trip? (Home > shop > home?)

My method takes an hour.

I didn't want to do it. I told the GF to schedule it 5000 miles ago, but she didn't, so I did it sunday night, while she made dinner. I changed the PTU oil while i had it in the garage, too.

Does anyone else find the dip stick impossible to read?

I Attempted the 2 bucket method. It does not work.

The transmission fails to suction from the Transmission cooler hose.

It will pump out old fluid.

Here is my setup.

Call me lazy but the bumper looked like to time consuming to remove to get to the trany cooler. So i went after it at # 3 in Hacker's drawing. Just a few screws to remove the fender liner. Its a silly 5.5mm. WTF Ford? Who uses a 5.5mm head screw???

Here's the schematic of the cooler system; I'm not sure which is the supply line and which is the return line, I don't have my Edge in front of me to check. In the shop manual, the line on the driver's side (right side of the cooler in this picture) is labeled as the "return tube", and the line on the passenger side (left side in this pic) is labeled the "outlet tube". Not sure how to decipher that, as they both sound like the flow is out, heheh.

 

The pressure side is in the back. A ~ 0.625" OD hose fits in the hole and helps direct the mess into the pan.

If i had to do this again I'd use a graduated bucket, so i know how much has been removed.

This blue hose is connects to the hose going to the cooler. I submersed it in fluid but it failed to suction. A more elaborate method would be to run a longer hose to a elevated reservoir so it might gravity flow in. But That's more complicated and asking for a messy spill.

The Transmission will dump its guts in just over a minute. Increased flow while in drive.

With the GF at the Helm. We spent about 15 sec in park, 20 sec in Reverse, 30 sec in drive.

Then the outflow got foamy. (cavitation) And we shut the engine off.

I measured 6.5 liters in the pan. Added 7 liters via the dip stick.

Ran another 20 sec in drive and 20sec In low. Then Clean red fluid was being discharged and we shut it off.

About 3 more liters came out. That's 95%!

No wasted fluid doing 6.5 liter fluid change 3 times.

At $12 / liter thats an extra $70 saved.

While you were getting the lip service the manual says to run the gear shift through all positions to purge all old fluid and air out.

Did ya clean the magnetic drain plug?

Anyone using ZEREX™ G-05 Coolant?

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_G-05_AFC_Technical_Bulletin.pdf

I find it hard to believe that there is not a block drain in the engine.

How much coolant comes out with the pressure tester?

Have any shops offered back flushing to push particles off the filter?

Hello,

I'm taking over the maintenance on my GF's Edge with 100k mi.

I try to put thought into parts / brands I buy. I don't like going to the big box stores because they tend to push crap with a lifetime

warranty.

I also know that the Dealership isn't called the "Stealership" for nothing. Generic things get rebadged.

What parts are worth getting from the dealer?

Any online parts resources for OEM.

Any recommended part numbers that have proved themselves?

Thanks!

I too am interested in 1 wheel in and tire.

I'd like to carry a full size spare while towing.

Maybe someone out there was in a wreck and has 3 good ones.

Northern California preferred for pickup.

Tisk Tisk. You should not let the caliper hang by the hose. Tie it up with bailing wire.

Did you check the guide pin boots for tearing? That will shorten the life of the pads in a hurry if the caliper can not center it self and float away from the rotor.

I want to create a data base of how long x pads last.

How long x rotors last.

I've just turned 100K on my Edge. I know there are other folks on this forum with at least twice that many miles.

My last setup lasted 40K mi maybe (2k mi towing, no trailer brakes, 3k RV)

Stock rotors turned.

Pads (unknown make / model) I didnt install them my self.

They Squeaked from day 1 until they were metal on metal.

Any recomended setups?

If the Stock ford equipment lasts 80K mi, its tempting to go back to that.

I don't care what you just installed.

1. What has gone through the test of time???

2. Does it squeak?

3. Improved stopping distances?

4. Do you tow? What? Trailer Brakes?

5. How many miles did you get on your Pads / Rotors?

Thanks!

Where is the power bleeder method?!

They eye will only show major carnage.

You are looking for what is causing noise.

You have to check tooth engagement with gear marking compound. Back lash, ect.

https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf

Even then, it does not show preload on the bearings. Which will cause noise as well.

Thanks for the correction. Earlier I read .8. But forgot it was pints.

3/8 NPT

Interesting results so far.

My solvent of choice for this is BioDiesel. Great cleaning properties while maintaining lubricity.

The i measured out 800 ml. The case only took 400ml before spilling out. The rest of the volume must be sludge.

Installed 2 magnetic drain plugs.

I wanted to agitate the case like a good dish washer. So That means spinning the output shaft with a drill. Or putting all 4 wheels in the air and putting it in gear.

OR Drove it around the block. Let it sit 1 hr. Repeat 4 times.

Drained. I found metal sludge on the upper plug, same as before and METAL FLAKES on the lower plug! Glad I chose to drill the lower drain plug. I'm not pulling the unit until it makes noise.

Lesson of the day. Measure the volume that drains out and refill with the same volume.

BioDiesel came out back as night. But only 400ml. I've got a lot more desludging to do.

Refilled with 200ml synthetic gear oil +200ml BioDiesel. I'll change it again at the end of the week.

Jlk was right. I drilled the drain hole for my ptu today and no oil came out. Everything was significantly more messy than a few months ago. Mostly from the vent not the seals.
I feel like no one has documented drilling the drain plug with the ptu in the car, so I snapped a few pics. These are from an 2009.
There is just enough room to work between the exhaust and motor mount. I drilled a pilot but not all the way through to keep the chips on the out side, until the end.
5/16 was enough to keep the 37/64 drill from walking. The casting is surprisingly thick. About 1/2". Do be sure to stop And oil the drill a few times. I left oil in the pan to push out the chips when I finally broke through.

A 16mm socket and extension holds the back of a 3/8" npt tap and allows me to reach past the exhaust. Use grease so the chips stay on the tap and out of the case. I run npt taps about 2/3rds in. I was taught the plug should go in about 2 turns by hand before you need a wrench. And tightened an additional 2 turns with a wrench. It takes a little back and forth. Do Not cross thread the tap when putting it back in.
I picked up a magnetic drain plug from mcmastercarr.com. but i'm sure amazon has them too.
Do not cross thread the drain plug when putting it in.

Awesome video!

Has anyone experienced actual PTU failure? Or develop a wine?

The PTU is basically a differential. When differential is worn it gets noisy and will humm at certain hwy speeds. It can be repaired by increasing the preload on the bearings or rebuilt. Metal paste on the drain plug is to be expected.

There is 97K mi on my GF's 09 Edge. Some of those miles are towing. No wine.

Is it sludgy? Probably. I'm getting ready to give it a douching this summer.

Right now it only weeps around the passenger side seal. No smoke / puking out the vent yet.

I had my Edge at a transmission shop. He pointed out that the PTU was starting to weep.

The cause is because the exhaust heat cooks the seal on the PTU.

The fluid according to Ford is supposed to be "lifetime".

I think the Transmission fluid was supposed to be "lifetime" as well.

He recommended changing the fluid more often in both. (every 50K)

Because its a bear to get to he was going to charge a pretty penny. Quoted $700 to remove the unit and change the seals and fluid.