mcali6301

The 2011 Edge had the TSB for the Valve body gasket and checkball delete, that fixed my first 2011 Edge...When I got my 2011 Edge sport, I had them do the same TSB work anyway so avoid the problem again.

I had an issue like that about a year ago, as soon as I bought the car, I noticed the right strut was busted, I made the dealer replace both of them. Every-time I pressed the gas, the steering wheel would slight jerk to the right. Dealer tried to tell me it was torque steer, another dealer had the car for 2 months, replaced axles, power steering pump, steering rack, they called in a field service engineer, and even checked with the PLANT that built the car, they pretty much gave the car back and told me nothing they can do..Finally I took it to an alignment shop where they found that the right lower control arm bushing was so work out, the rubber was peeling off and hanging under the car..I had him put it in writing and took it back to the dealer, they replaced the right lower control arm and that FINALLY fixed the issue all under warranty thank goodness...Whoever had the car before me must had hit a huge pothole before trading it in...Sorry to say but the Ford techs in this case, showed some incompetence with this issue, the fix was right under their noses the whole time. They were overthinking the problem.

You can see my thread on this forum.

I do not believe the subframe tweaking response at all..unless the car has been in an accident and bent the frame, that is not the problem.

Take the car to a suspension/alignment specialist, someone who's been doing it for years and that's all they do.

I took off my silencer and went into Lowes/HomeDepot and then matched the black abs plastic caps to the size of the muffler protrusions. They are exact, but close. Do not get the white pvc stuff as its heat rating is 140 farenheit max and abs is 180. Underhood temps can gat to well over 200 but where they sit in rubber and are in a cooler air stream, they should be ok. Do remove the rubber intake tube and push them in so they become a flat continuous roof with the surrounding intake roof. In other words, you want the flow to be as uninterrupted and smooth as possible. Don't forget you'll need 2 clamps so they stay in position. I noticed my transmission is more responsive after doing this. 1/3 push on the pedal makes the tranny kick down where 2/3 pedal was needed before. Nice responsiveness. Horsepower increase? I doubt it, but better response. MPG is no worse. Can't say if it's better cause I can't keep my foot out of it after only a month of ownership. Definitely worth the $3 of plastic. Good luck

I know exactly what you mean and noticed the same thing, not only is shifting smoother, but physical shifting (from P, R and to D and back) is also smoother!

I have the 2011 sport and I'm pretty sure that the OLM is mileage based. I did not see IOLM in the manual.

I've been running Synth Blend and I'm at 5500 miles now. Oil looks like it needs to be changed very soon but OLM states 56%

So it seems to me that the OLM is assuming I'm using Full Synth.

It is with extreme pleasure that I announce, my car is NOW repaired. The issue is resolved, the car does not pull anymore!!

This whole time, it was the freakin RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARM, the front bushing in particular was worn out and eventually torn to the point that it was sticking out from under the car. I said it time and time again, MOST LIKELY the owner before me hit a large pothole and damaged the strut and LCA in the process.

I'll be sending an email to the dealerships to let them know just for future reference! I'm too relieved to even be mad!

:happy feet:

Would be good if that's the fix, but would look pretty bad for the mechanics/techs who should know about these things ...

Tell me about it...Especially the first dealership I brought it to who sold the car to me with a broken right strut, I told them it's pretty clear that the car hit a large bump prior to being traded in. They just shrugged it off and said it was normal.

Went for a test drive so the tech could hear the rattle.

They replaced the right LCA and so far on the streets I DO NOT feel any pulling....Need to take on the freeway to reach final conclusion but it's looking good!!!

Well, the car is in and we will find out shortly...

It's much cheaper to plasti-dip them or even wrap them. The can costs about $5 and the wrap can be even cheaper online and all you would need is a heat gun or blow dryer...

I've seen those ford badges on etsy for almost $90...I don't know how anyone could pay that much for them

Looks like you can fit 285's on the edge sport rims? If so I really like that idea!

I'm using pirelli scorpion zero asimmetrico 265/40's now...

As mentioned above, you really should learn to use the parking brake to take the strain off the parking pawl. I've been parking cars on steep driveways for half of my life so I just do it without even thinking about it now.

 

1) Stop where you want to park. 2) Hold your foot on the brake pedal. 3) Push the parking brake pedal down as far as you reasonably can. 4) Put it in park. 5) Let go of the regular foot brake.

 

When you leave: 1) Foot on brake to start it. 2) Put it in D or R. 3) Release the parking brake. 4) release foot brake and drive away.

 

 

The goal is to have the parking brake hold majority of the vehicle's weight, not the parking pawl.

I *always* use the brake JUST enough to keep the car from resting on the parking pawl.

I know when you park on an incline WITHOUT the E brake, the car is basically resting on the parking pawl so shifting out of P will give you a clunk. This is why when I park on an incline, I always engage the E brake FULLY before shifting into park.

I have had an issue in the past where there as some extra vibration from the front end when reversing with moderate throttle and reversing uphill. This was due to a worn engine mount.

Thanks for that input!

I'm under premium care so I know the dealership will ONLY replace the LCA that they consider shot and replace it with a Motorcraft one. If it DOES fix this steering issue (gosh, how many times have I said that...) Then MAYBE I can get them to replace the other as a consolation for MISSING this in the first place! I wouldn't hold my breath on that however so I may just have to come out of pocket with the other.

If this fixes the issue though, I'll be so ecstatic I won't even care for while....

I took it in for another opinion. He agreed that the rear bushings do not look bad. weird but OK...

However, the forward bushing on the right LCA was worn out and the rubber was even poking out of the hole like string..the mechanic grabbed the right wheel and was able to move it along with the control arm..Not sure how Ford never caught this but if the problem didn't exist then back in October then probably this is a separate issue from my "wandering issue"

He documented it so I will take to Ford and see if they will replace the LCA under warranty...

Question: should I just aim to get both LCA's replaced or is one good enough for now?

I definitely see a difference there, the rubber on yours looks solid (I am in NO way looking at the rust, I'm sure that is normal). Now I realize that mine is probably not considered "worn" compared to the pictures of worn bushings I've seen on the internet but if those gaps or soft rubber are making the LCA move in any way I can definitely see how this is causing my issue. I guess unless you drive the car and see for yourself I just sound crazy (I'm used to it by now) LOL...Heck, my wife doesn't even notice it! She thinks I'm crazy! lol

I've brought this up to the dealership again to see what they say. If they don't want to look into it then I'm just going to have them replaced anyway.

 

 

Wheel Induction Heat Sink FluxModulator

LOL you're joking right?

I just went to a mechanic down the block reporting the rattle sound in the back...Instead they came back tell me that the right LCA bushing needs to be replaced. I believe them because I saw the thing also and it did not look good to me..Funny thing is they said nothing about the left one which looks the same IMO.

Here are pics of the right one..

Hello! Yup, this subject again..... Since I've spent a lot of time under my car over the weekend I started noticing something about the LCA bushings.

Attached are pictures of the left one.The rubber feels soft, there are some small gaps on the inner parts. Also on the leftside the rubber is bulging a little bit (not sure how well you can see that).

The right one looks pretty much the same. There is no knocking. I looked online at bad bushings but they are all in far worse shape and all information points to extreme wear with knocking etc.

Looks to me like that piece has been doing a lot of moving around and thinking the mechanics of it, it makes sense to me that this could be causing the swaying and torque steer effect if these lower control arms are moving around while I'm switching lanes etc. Th

What do you guys think? What's weird is that this was never looked at the dealership..

The more I drive around and listen, it really sounds like the rattle clips on the brakes. Only thing is all rattle clips are in place. Perhaps they are cracked somewhere. I plan on inspecting them at some point soon.

Everything in my Edge rattles. I just turn up the radio.

I'm OCD.

Worth checking the spare tire well? Might be something loose in there? I have not made any changes in there on my Edge since I bought it, but I am sure there are people out there who actually use the builtin organizer

Thanks! I'll check the spare tonight.

Broken part inside the cat converter or muffler?

It really sounds like it's coming from the rear and it sounds like it's exposed to the outside, (doesn't sound like it's coming from within any housing)...

I'm hoping it's coming from the rear brakes. I'm thinking that maybe one of the brake pad clips are broken even though they are still there...Guess I'll have to take it in...

Check gas tank shield. The shield on my 13 SEL rattled. I stuck a piece of hard foam rubber between tank and shield. I found the rattle by lying under car a tapping on anything that I thought would move.

 

Larry

Checked that. I even placed some foam spacers to ensure they could not be the culprit.

I was under the car for an hour yesterday. I could not find anything loose yet I still hear it when driving over light bumps..It really sounds like the anti-rattle clip however ALL of them are in place

Evaporative Emission Canister

 

2012 Ford Edge Evaporative Emission Canister.JPG

Item Part Number Description

1 — Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister vent solenoid electrical connector (part of 14A005)

2 9E857 EVAP canister

3 — Fuel vapor tube (part of 9S327)

4 9G676 EVAP canister vent solenoid/dust separator

5 W705681 EVAP canister pin-type retainer

6 W710330 EVAP canister bolt (3 required)

7 — Fuel vapor tube-to- EVAP canister quick connect coupling (part of 9S284)

8 — Fuel vapor tube assembly-to- EVAP canister quick connect coupling (part of 9S284)

 

Fuel Vapor Tube Assembly

 

2012 Ford Edge Fuel Vapor Tube Assembly 1.JPG

Item Part Number Description

1 N811781 Fuel tank strap bolt (4 required)

2 9092 Fuel tank strap (2 required)

3 9002 Fuel tank

 

2012 Ford Edge Fuel Vapor Tube Assembly 2.JPG

Item Part Number Description

1 14A464 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor electrical connector

2 — Fuel tank fuel vapor tube assembly-to-fuel pump module quick connect coupling (part of 9D667)

3 — Fuel tank tube-to-fuel tank fuel vapor tube quick connect coupling (part of 9002)

4 — Fuel tank fuel vapor tube assembly-to-Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister fuel vapor tube assembly quick connect coupling (part of 9D667)

5 9D667 Fuel tank fuel vapor tube assembly

6 — EVAP canister fuel vapor tube assembly-to-canister quick connect coupling (part of 9D667)

7 9D667 EVAP canister fuel vapor tube assembly

 

Fuel Lines — 3.5L, 3.7L - Middle Fuel Supply and Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vapor Tubes

 

2012 Ford Edge 3-5-7L Middle Fuel Supply and Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vapor Tubes.JPG

Item Part Number Description

8 — Middle brake tube-to-front brake tube fitting (part of 9S284)

9 — Front brake tube-to-middle brake tube fitting (part of 9C296)

10 — Front brake tube-to-middle brake tube fitting (part of 9C296)

11 — Middle brake tube-to-front brake tube fitting (part of 9S284)

12 — Front EVAP vapor tube quick connect coupling-to-middle EVAP vapor tube (part of 9J280)

13 — Front fuel supply tube quick connect coupling-to-middle fuel supply tube (part of 9J280)

14 W707137 Bundle retainer clip nut (2 required)

15 — Middle EVAP vapor tube quick connect coupling-to- EVAP canister (part of 9S284)

16 — Middle EVAP vapor tube quick connect coupling-to- EVAP canister (part of 9S284)

17 — Middle brake tube fitting-to-rear brake hose (part of 9S284)

18 — Middle brake tube fitting-to-rear brake tube fitting (part of 9S284)

19 — Rear brake tube fitting-to-middle brake tube fitting (part of 2265)

20 9S284 Middle fuel supply and EVAP vapor tube assembly

 

AERO/EVAP Shields

2012 Ford Edge Aero Shield.JPG

2012 Ford Edge 2.0T EVAP Shield.JPG

Thanks!! Unfortunately these components had nothing do with the rattle.

 

In the FSM, it is called the Aero Shield, and it is held in place by 4 bolts, 4 trim pins, and 2 push pins. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Likely find it in Emissions Components along with the Vapor Canister.

 

Might be these two, but I can't tell 4 sure:

FORD OEM Exterior-Air Deflector Left BT4Z7811398B

 

FORD OEM Exterior-Air Deflector Right BT4Z7811398A

 

Is this aero shield covering emmisions components? What exactly is this covering? I'm thinking that something on the other side of this shield is loose.