pjsockett

 

Out of curiosity, what's the price for that? Does not show the price for the part on the link.

Shows up for me as $205.61

Benny,

My power liftgate seems to have died, It binds really badly and stops opening every 6 inches or so. I took a picture of the lift motor that I took off and what I think is the model number doesn't come up in your system or within and google searches that I have tried. Can you verify that BT4Z78431A78B would be the correct part.

VIN: 2FMDK3JC2CBA79451

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxAFkMZWSz-bdnhzLTF2cERjNFk/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxAFkMZWSz-bQ0NZVVdEUWo4MGs&authuser=0

Condition

The power liftgate stops during power open operation

 

Possible Sources

1. The vehicle was started or taken out of PARK during a power open operation

2. Mechanical binding

 

Action

1. INITIALIZE the power liftgate. REFER to Power Liftgate Initialization in this section. If condition still exists, manually CLOSE the liftgate to the primary latch position and OPEN the liftgate, using the exterior handle or liftgate control switch with the vehicle in PARK and the ignition in the ON position.

2. If mechanical binding does exist, REFER to Liftgate in this section.

 

 

Power Liftgate Initialization

NOTE: The power liftgate may not operate correctly under the following conditions:

* A low voltage or dead battery

* A disconnected battery

* Repairs/adjustments have been made to the power liftgate rod, power liftgate motor, liftgate hinges or liftgate striker

 

If any of these conditions has occurred, the power liftgate must be reinitialized.

1. NOTE: Battery power must be removed from the Liftgate/Trunk Module (LTM) for 20 seconds before the LTM will enter the initialization mode. ***

 

Disconnect the battery or remove the LTM fuse(s).

 

2. Wait 20 seconds and reconnect the battery or reinstall the LTM fuse(s).

 

3. If liftgate is not already in the fully closed position, manually close and fully latch the power liftgate.

 

4. NOTE: Make sure the power liftgate system is turned ON in the message center before performing this step.

 

NOTE: If the power liftgate does not open during this step, refer to the Symptom Chart to diagnose the inoperative power liftgate.

 

Power open the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch.

 

5. Once the power liftgate is fully open, close the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch.

 

 

*** I looked up the wiring on this module, you need to disconnect fuse F59 in the Battery Jubnction Box (engine compartment), fuses F14 and F17 in the Smart Junction Box (near drivers floor).

Thanks for all of the info. Mine is definitely binding. Last night I disconnected the motor from the lift gate and it squeaks really badly trying to operate and the motor got really hot.

I have a 2012 SEL with a power liftgate. On Saturday, I noticed it was creaking a bit when I opened it. Yesterday it went about half way and stopped, if I push the button again it will finish going up. Today, it goes about 2 inches at a time. It seems to be the actual power power actuator not the hydraulics. Is there anything that I can do to lubricate that or does it have to be replaced?

Did these change again? I have the new black style and my lights don't have the resistor attached like that and I reused my ember turn signals. If you only reuse the reverse bulb what it used as the turn signal?

Question on the dipped panels.

Once you dip the textured plastic does it become smooth?

I am thinking about wrapping my Edge but I would like to do the lower pieces as well. If you wrap that textured plastic in vinyl it won't last, so I might try dipping it first and then wrapping over that. I guess worst case I can take the dip off and I'm right back to where I started.

Mine occasionally don't fire on auto when it's cold outside, but if you toggle the switch manually they work right away. I would say it's only an issue in cold weather 1 in 20 times. Not really a big deal for me since it's only ever an issue when starting the car. If the car is already running when the auto kicks in the work every time.

I have the 9012 morimoto system and my light s seem plenty bright by the time I get from the garage to the road. Doesn't take more than 30 seconds to be at 100%. I would think ballasts but I have the 55w kit with a TRS harness as well, so I'm not sure if the extra wattage plays into that.

I know this is an old thread, but just bought my metallic wrap and that's it. Haven't had any luck of ford edge owners doing vids of their wrapping. I've seen some other wrapping vids on youtube. My question is I'm wrapping the upper strip on my sport grille and some wrapping vids use primer for the wrap to stick and others just put peel and wrap with heat gun and squeegee. I ordered the 3m 1080 metallic wrap and advice would be appreciated.

Do not use primer if you ever plan to take this off or are worried you might screw up. Primer, or adhesive promoter, can be very difficult to remove.

I noticed that the Fluid was a bit low in the power steering reservoir, about to the top of the hose when cold. Topped off the fluid and the noise went away completely.

I have a 2012 SEL with 33,000 miles on it. The manual shows Mercon V for PS and Mercon LV for ATF

My Power Steering fluid is low, can I top it off with any Mercon V ATF or do I need to use Motorcraft if I am just adding to what is already in there?

No, I have that too. This is definitely coming from the engine compartment and it changes based on acceleration.

I have a '12 SEL with about 33,000 miles on it. The Wisconsin winter has set in and I have been having a strange issue in the cold weather. Coming out of the garage in the morning everything has been fine. When the car has been sitting outside in the cold I get a strange whine under acceleration, especially while turning. It sounds like a manual transmission is reverse. Even when the car warms up the noise will continue. The strange thing is, if I shut the car off warm and let it sit for a minute and start it up again the problem is gone. Any ideas?

I bought the 9012 kit about 6 months ago. At that time they just shipped a 9006 kit, not sure if that's what they still do or not. I had ti trim one tab on each bulb to get them to seat properly. They way they cam if it really struggled with it I could get it in but they weren't aimed correctly and they had a really bad shadow from the return wire.

Link to how I got them to work. Hope it makes sense.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14239-morimoto-bulb-install-troubles/?do=findComment&comment=110121

Wow, that doesn't look very fun to clean up, especially 4 times.

More details please

Its 3 layers of cut vinyl, a metallic black, a chrome, and a clear laminate. The final cut of the laminate is done after they are put together so its a really clean cut through the whole thing. I wrapped my grill with the black and then used some of the excess to make some new emblems.

I made a new Metallic Black and Chrome emblem to match my grill.

guys, has anyone tried a vossen wheels in here for SeL, sports or Ecoboost??? 22inches.. does it fit without any clearance issues?

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13024-22-vossen-cv3/?do=findComment&comment=101453

They are metal

My boss did this with an MKX back in March so they have been doing this for a while now. Not sure how much longer it goes for.

It's riveted on. You have to drill the rivets out. I believe that I used a 1/4 drill bit.

Any idea what this is?

It almost looks like a button to turn the rear camera on while not in reverse.

I just got an email from Ford with links to their new Web Page for the 2015 edge

http://www.ford.com/crossovers/edge/2015/

PJ,

 

I have had zero intermittent white blinking with these bulbs. Seemed to have solved that issue with tees new bulbs.

Sounds like it's time for me to upgrade. In combination with Dan's DRL's they look great when they work properly but the flash of white just kills the look.