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TORQUERULES

Edge Member
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Posts posted by TORQUERULES

  1. Would you be willing to ship it to zip 25241 (Evans, WV) for $175?

     

    I have a New in the Box Billet Grille for sale. The grille is the Upper Grille and the Lower Bumper Grille, all mounting hardware and installation instructions are included. This grille has not been installed, openned or removed from its original packaging.

     

    This grille retails for $250 to $300. I need to sell it and am willing to let it go for a good deal. I would like to get $175 for it but would consider other offers.

     

    My Edge is in the bodyshop after hitting a deer and I no longer need the grille. If you are interested in the grille feel free to contact me by replying to this post or email me at tim.lust@hotmail.com.

     

    Details:2007- 2010 Ford EdgeFord Edge Billet Grille - Aluminum - F86625A

    Fits: 2007- 2010 Ford Edge

     

    *Each grille has black stain powder coating on the back and shining polished face finished

     

    APS Auto Parts Specialists

    As a high quality manufacturer and marketer, APS has owned over 400 application grilles, which made out of stainless steel grilles to aluminum billet grilles and come with the mirror finish and good-looking style. Each Grille is manufactured out of Aircraft Grade 6061-T6 Aluminum which is one of the lightest and toughest materials.

     

    Installation:Replacement Grille (Cutting Not Required)

     

    Ford Edge APS Billet Grille - Aluminum - F86625A Fits: 2007- 2010 Ford Edge

  2. Well, I had to put in a new latch. I had the fuses out of positions 9 and 10 in the driver's side interior fuse box in order to keep my interior and puddle lights from staying on when the latch wasn't working properly. I put them back in and the interior lights all work but I have mysteriously lost my puddle lights. Any ideas? I love my puddle lights...

  3. Well, I tried everything so now I am replacing the latch (it came in today). The door panel comes off easy, but the inner black panel is not so easy. Anyone know how to remove this so I will not break anything?

     

    Thanks.

     

    it is in the latch mech. common issue with gm but have seen it in dodge and ford as well.

     

    Latch Left

    Quantity: 1

     

    Make: Ford

    Model: Edge

    Model Year(s): 2007

    List Price: $62.38

    Your Price: $49.28

    Description:

    LATCH

    Remove from cart | Edit Quantity: Update

     

     

    Price: $49.28

     

    http://www.partswebsite.com/fordpartswebsite/index.php?i=6&key=0&action=additem&o=6499400&qty=1&optionid_1=0&modelyear=2007&stop=h3sjmydf5zrx5czrzk2ss5hf28&price=49.2802&optionSets=&rmake=123&rmodel=1271&ryear=2007&subcatid=&section=141&sfid=89&type=parts&rpage=0#bottom

  4. normally those sensors that trigger those are a plunger/pin sensor on the door. in the case of the Edge, on the inside front most portion of the door (towards the engine) there is a black arm that pushes into the door when closed. I "suspect" that arm actuates the plunger inside the door that works these sensors. That is where I would start. pull the door panel - piece of cake on the Edge - and inspect that area/wiring/etc and see what you can see as a start.

     

     

    Now that the weather is better I was thinking of giving that a try. Nothing on the arm you speak of is corroded or in bad condition. I was suspecting that might be it, or there is a trigger of some sort in the latch mechanism. I wish I knew what to look for. I miss that old plunger now...

  5. I have been having an intermittent problem with the driver's door of my '07 Edge SEL AWD indicating that it is ajar (warning and interior lights on) when it is not. In order for it to quit, I have to either VERY firmly close the door (slam it more or less which I hate) or open and close it a few times until it senses that it is in fact fully closed. It just started this this winter. My Edge is out of warranty, but is VERY well maintained. Any tips or suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated. Thanks.

  6. I have been wondering this myself and have the same concerns as you. My wife messed up mine, and I would get a new one, but for the price I have just thought of removing it. Can you chime in on how it has been doing without it so far?

  7. My 07 SEL+ sounds the same. It goes away after awhile. Hope its nothing to worry about.

     

     

    Yea, me too. Even though it may void the warranty, for the next oil change interval I might try 30w instead to see if that helps. It will flow just as good but the thicker oil may offer more film protection.

  8. My 2007 Edge SEL AWD with 3500 miles (just got it about 3 months ago) seems to have what I think to be excessive valvetrain noise after starting it cold. Now I am pretty sure that the 3.5 has direct acting "bucket" tappets (cams act directly on valves though a "bucket" style tappet that fits over the valve/valve spring) which is a mechanical system unlike the roller follower/hydraulic lifter arrangement on the V8 Modular motors and the old 2.3 Lima 4cyl so it will be more noisy by virtue of the design. But, this seems noiser than it should be when cold. Not the typical "sewing machine" sound as when warm. Now the 2.3 Duratec/MZR 4cyl in my wife's old Mazda 3 and my Mazdaspeed 3 has some more noise on cold starts/conditions, and that engine has a similar valvetrain, but not as noisy as this.

     

    Is this typical for the Edge and this engine? I am using 5w20 synthetic, but it did it with the stock oil as well.

     

    Thanks.

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