wickedstangs

2007 Edge unexplained stalling???

 

In Oct 2008 our 2007 Edge started stalling. There was no pattern to the stalling. It was infrequent and would happen while stopped at red lights or even while driving. I put gas cleaner in the tank, it was no help. I then thought maybe it was the change to winter gas. We took it to the dealer for a scheduled service appointment. They could not reproduce the stalling and said they never heard of it happening to an Edge.

 

The stalling actually went away for the winter. Now it is back for the last 2 weeks it has been stalling. I was thinking maybe now it was because of the change to summer gas. Or was it just a coincidence?

 

I searched the net and saw some posts about TPS sensors and stalling but not many. We called and we are going to leave the car with the dealer so they can do more extensive testing on it.

 

The one good(?) thing is I can now reproduce the stalling. While the car is still hot if I put it in neutral or park and pump the gas petal once and then again…as the tach arrow comes back down ... it stalls.

 

Did anyone hear of unexplained stalling in Edge’s? I will let you know what the dealer says this time. At least I can show them how to make it stall.

 

Thanks

Same thing is happening to us.. Just sent the car in and was told I need a new Throttle Body..

(add disclaimers, risks and caveats here about what damage you could do or warranties you could void by doing a trick mod like this)

 

As promised..

 

I built and put a switch inline that allows me to switch off all internal lights with 1 push.

 

I removed the 15a fuse #9, took the 15a fuse and modified and cut open the fuse (no need for the fuse function as I need the circuit to NOT be complete at that fuse, but up stream at the inline fuse, I just needed it as a means to make a connection into the fuse box) and soldered onto it the 2 wires so the fuse box connection is more clean and precise then jamming 2 wires into the open fuse holes, put an inline 15a fuse (exactly what is removed, this way, still have a fuse in case and it completes the circuit), attached a nice black 20a rated rocker switch which blends in perfect.

 

Here are photos. Enjoy

 

Here is the entire mechanism. Switch, wires, modified fuse to plug into the fuse box. Maybe ugly, but like everything under the dash, it works.

 

 

Here is the switch just in the area I 'think" I will be mounting it down by the fuse box/feet area. I have not 100% decided if I will mount it there or not. This was proof of concept, and it worked just as I expected it would. So, I will, when I decide just where I want it (I have not decided if I want it obviously seen like up near the dash dimmer roll switch or hidden and kind of out of the way known only to me) I will drill the .75" hole needed and install it with the nice included trim piece that will make it look like a factory all black matching rocker button. I 'might' go check Radio Shack and see what neater switched they might have (illuminated for example). UPDATE: I ended up flush mounting the switch down below the fuse box panel. Cannot even see it unless you go looking for it. I decided I did not want people accidentally pushing it and it makes it known only to me to activate and initiate the light cut off. Next, I will likely do a puddle lamp switch as well and mount right next to it as if you leave the doors open or trunk open, the puddle lamps stay on at night so as wickedstangs said, fuse #10 also needs addressing to make this a complete system.

 

Wow Lex awesome write up and thanks for the info.

I didn't know there were still drive-ins!

Ya when you have kids you will find them:)

By anychance did you have your radio on or off? Remember this is at the Drive In have to have the radio on to listen to the movie.. Going to try it again tomorrow after work.

sure enough... this will NOT happen. I washed the car today and had doors open for 30 minutes.. never went off. not until I did the lock doors trick while doors still open I said above did they shut off and still have doors and boot open.

Not sure what you mean. Did you have the hatchback open for 30 minutes and the lights still didnt go out? And when you locked the door and hatch still open the lights go out after 10min?

They will go out automatically after 10 minutes.

I swear I thought I gave them 10min. Maybe I wasnt patient enough with everyone telling me to turn off my lights.

Ok, I went to the DRIVE-IN last night to go see Speedracer with the kids. I back the car in and open the tailgate and to my surprise, the interior and sideview mirrors lighsts would not go out, I placed the key in ACC and in KOEO mode and still the interior lights and the sideview mirrors would not go off. I had to remove two fuses from the fuse box just to kill the lights. #9 and #10. Has anyone had this problem or am I doing something wrong?

Folks ... this is what I had ordered. Delivery within a few days.

 

His website has tons of information on automotive lighting that is worthwile reading.

 

Jaak

 

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On Fri, 14 Mar 2008, Jaak wrote:

 

> Hello ... I have a brand spanking new Ford Edge Limited AWD with H11 as the low beams.<

 

Ford have recently "gotten it" and have been installing decent optics on their cars (finally). H11 is an ultralong-life, rather low-output bulb

producing 1350 lumens. You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html -- don't make this substitution in the fog lamps, however.

 

> I would like to order a pair of your finest. I am looking for a good distance beam pattern down the road as well as one that hopefully lasts longer than a year.<

 

Can't have all of the above. Higher output = shorter life. Buy spares; they're not too costly.

 

Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or

overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing

electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of

overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.)

 

Here's the comparison:

 

stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours

compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours

new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours

 

These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $23.95/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan.

 

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases. The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details.

 

The direct order link for these bulbs is http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html

 

You may also want to install the 30% brighter front turn signal bulbs to maintain the proper brightness ratio with the headlamps: http://store.candlepower.com/p3457akda.html

 

 

> For shipping purposes I live in Toronto, Ontario, Canada:<

 

No worries -- Canadian shipping options are provided on the checkout page

of our secure Candlepower website linked above.

How did these work for you?

Has anyone had problems with their edge keeping it running in the morning?

 

Mine has been back to ford dealer three times and they say they it cant be duplicated

 

finely it quit on the side of the road and it had to be towed no word yet on the problem

What was the problem?

New here and I just took the plunge and purchase a new 2007 edge real good deal. Hope to chat with some of ya about things I can do to the Edge for looks and performance and video stuff:)