elricfate

Sold.

Sold pending pickup.

Dublin.

sorry to hear about the Edge, hope your wife escaped unscathed! hope someone cashes in on this deal QUICK!

We both mostly did. She was fine, I got my shin all beat to hell hitting it off the passenger dash on the way forward. No air bags, though, which is good.

Well, my wife totaled her '08 Edge a couple weeks ago and we didn't replace it with another Edge of this generation, so I have two Drive Bright LED tail lights for sale. They have been absolutely wonderful for us and I just wanted to see someone else get some use out of them. I'm also sending the backup LED bulbs I bought with them.

$150 shipped for the set.

Same as the below:

http://drivebright.com/home/shop/ford-edge-led-tail-light-set-lh-rh-complete-replacement-tail-light-assembly/

Your response leads to questions about your use of terminology. "Ford even used HIDs any more"? HIDs are a relatively new type of lighting for headlights (and only headlights) that has come along this century (although the Lincoln Mark VIII used reflector HID headlights in 1998) and very few Ford models use LED headlights yet. HIDs are not used for daytime running lights because the high voltage ballast doesn't like being run using PWM voltage reduction so any vehicle using their headlights as DRLs is running halogen headlights rather than HIDs. With factory HID headlights, the DRLs are assigned to different lamps such as the turn signals or fog lights depending on make and model.

 

As previously stated, there is no way to replace HID headlights with LEDs because nobody makes a bulb to fit. Halogen headlights can sometimes be switched to LED but the lamp design and particularly the dust cover on the back of the lamp can make installation difficult.

 

Again, if you're actually talking about replacing standard incandescent miniature bulbs (turn signals - including DRLs, brake lights, side markers, etc.) with LEDs then there is no reason they won't work as long as you get the correct bulb type for each location. You may need load resistors to prevent the turn signals from hyper-flashing if you replace those bulbs.

I hate to be that guy, but a lot of this is incorrect.

First off, HIDs are not a new lighting technology, arc discharge lights have been around for a really long time. They've been used in cars since the early early '90s, and LED tech has been used in cars since the early aughts.

The reason HIDs are not used as DRLs is only in small part because of low voltage application, the reality is that arc discharge lighting doesn't have a long life to begin with, less so than halogen and much less so than LED, so it doesn't make sense to burn them all the time.

Any and all retrofits you stick in place, even high quality customs are technically illegal. A lot of Ford models are coming out with LED equipment as an option, very few offer them in the base models.

There are LEDs being made that have the same base and relative characteristics as HIDs. I saw it mentioned earlier, and again, that there are none, that's simply not true. Unlike arc discharge lighting, however, they do not have the ability to burn in 360*, therefore they've not really been used in projectors. They are being made, however.

You can either add load resistors, which are terrible because they draw current and dissipate it as heat, a horrible design, or you can add canbus adapters to lie to your PCM. In my F150, nicely enough, I didn't need to add load resistors to anything, just replace the turn signal relay from a resistance design to a timed design.

Ya know, I forgot all about this.

I bought an F-150 instead and am modding the heck out of it. :-)

My wife is keeping the Edge, she's gotten used to it.

Thanks guys!

 

Why good luck? Sounds like its not confident that I will get the tail lights

You'll get the tail lights. The good luck is the small modicum of skill required to replace them properly. It's more a thumbs up type situation than a worry.

Installed the DTBL taillights on my '07 today. Definitely break the socket/wiring for the LED connection apart in 2 as instructed, Very difficult if not impossible to seat socket in taillight otherwise. Install the reverse bulb socket first, THEN the 3757 socket, at least for the RH taillight IME. Do wish I had a place to secure the unused socket, wrapped it around the remaining wiring to keep it from rolling around/rattling. I also did not like the styrofoam packaging, as there were bits of styrofoam everywhere that I had to vacuum up before installing.

 

A 5/16" socket is needed to remove the bolts that hold the taillights in place. I'd also tape up the frame around where the taillight seats to prevent paint damage as you remove/install these units. And yes, suffering from the infamous burnt 3757 socket syndrome

 

One thing that I did was unhook the socket from the dangling wire and wrap it against the elements.

Any interest in purchasing mine?

Maybe, the rewire you did was that to the headlights themselves or the harness that your bulbs are being fed from? Hit me in PM with a price point.

Huh, they're not bad looking. All the shots of them by themselves don't actually do them justice.

And you say you've had no problems with them in seven months of ownership? Do you do a lot of night driving? What about high beams, how often do you use them?

i also tried to do a retrofit and boy you aren't kidding, these were the worst headlights to work with in terms of getting the lens off i have ever experienced and i have been doing zeros for years now. I actually ended up scrapping my project all together and selling my kit on eBay. I did end up with the black housing spec d projectors and have used them now for about 7 months. I can say i have had a great experience with them this far but i am selling them because i am going in a different direction as far as looks go, trying to source 2009 sport headlight and forgo the projector altogether, going to take them apart and color match them to my car and i made a custom clear corner for them. Wishing i didn't sell my stock ones after replacing them with these projectors. I have a 55w hid kit in mine and they give out more than enough light for the dark roads of north western IL

You have a picture of how they actually look on a real (not showroom) car?

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-mini-stage-3-kit-d2s.html#.VPTYsfnIbuk

 

If you click this link, I believe it should take you directly to the complete kit that I bought. I went with the 'X lens' which is the square lens option. I thought it'd look good with the shape of our headlights. I went with the PanaSquare shrouds and found that they need zero trimming for our headlights, which probably has more to do with the size of that opening and not the shroud itself. I'm sure most shrouds will fit in that space with little to no trimming. I received 4300K D2S bulbs with this kit, which is what OEM HID setups run. Thanks for the compliment!

That, right there, that's helpful. Very, very helpful, especially after seeing your application of the kit, extremely helpful. Are you going to do a write-up of your particular install? If not, I'm sure I can go about finding all sorts of information on retrofits, I was just wondering. The square lens and shrouds look really nice with the squareness of our headlights.

If I do the retrofit myself it's about $400ish, that's not terrible.

Hi elricfate. Looking around on hidplanet.com, I've not heard of anyone speaking highly of spec-d tuning lights. Most of the discussion is around light output, which may or may not be of interest to you as you're asking more about longevity. That, I haven't heard much about. I would say, however, that depending on your skill level and/or your budget, you might consider a quality retrofit. I'm in the process of retrofitting projectors into my 2010 SEL. With a quality bi-xenon projector, you shouldn't have to worry about the brights staying on or not working. It takes some patience, getting the lens off, but I think the results make it worth the extra work involved. Otherwise, you can find people online that will do these retrofits for you, through hidplanet.com or even theretrofitsource.com. Here's a photo of my retrofit that I'm working on.

 

Mark

 

That's a damn good looking job. Which projectors are you using for your retrofit?

If you don't see any leaks/smell any coolant/coolant doesn't look contaminated, I'd keep an eye on it for now. It may have been low for a while and finally just got to a point where it made you notice. Heater cores used to leak onto the passenger side carpet in the olden days. Hoses can develop pinhole leaks too. Check to make sure they are pliable and not too soft or hard when the engine is cooled down. Finally, you could replace the degas bottle cap, may not be holding pressure. Cheap enough to replace.

lol, checking the hoses now wouldn't be worth the struggle considering the weather, even in the garage since it's only about 20* warmer than outside.

I ran it tonight and sitting still it stayed warm, so I think it was just the low coolant. So now to watch and see if there was actually a problem or it was just a low coolant situation the entire time.

That coolant is going somewhere. Then again how long has it been since it was flushed and refilled? Could there have been air in the system from a flush and then it burped and emptied the reserve tank? If not you may have to be checking for leaks. I would fill it and monitor the level for awhile and if no further level changes then no problem.

I haven't done any maintenance on it since we bought it, two years ago. She's been taking it in for maintenance but god knows what they're actually doing. I haven't, however, seen a leak under the vehicle in the garage so I'm pretty sure it's been low for awhile.

To expand on that, I happened to have a bottle of universal 50/50 mix stuff from autozone on hand anyway. I opened the reservoir in the edge and there was nothing in it. I filled it to the cold fill line and it took 3/4 of the gallon. So I know it was very low, I just wonder if that's what's been doing it. I guess I'll find out.

Low coolant level in the degas bottle?

That may have been it. I don't know why I don't check her fluids even after she's told me she's had someone do the oil change. (I know, I know, I do my own but she insists).

So my wife has described this to me and I never believed it until I drove the truck last night.

The truck heats up just fine, doesn't overheat, doesn't have any engine issues.

The weird thing is that when you come to rest at a stop light, the blower stops blowing hot air. When you're moving again, it blows hot air again. The blower itself still goes, but the heat cools off. Same as when you're parked.

Anyone got any idea what would cause this?

Welp, spent a productive week or two now.

Mods to the Edge:

1x Daytime Brightlites 2008 direct plug and play replacement (Shadow Black) tail lights installed (http://drivebright.com/home/shop/ford-edge-led-tail-light-set-lh-rh-complete-replacement-tail-light-assembly/)

2x Daytime Brightlites 55w Cree 921 LED reverse lamps installed (no link)

2x Daytime Brightlites high power cree license plate 194 LEDs installed (no link)

1x JDM Astar extremely bright 578 bulb in the cargo area lamp installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTOJU28/)

3x Cutequeen 16 smd 578 bulbs in the rear dome light installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2YE4B4/)

2x JDM Astar extremely bright 194 in map lights installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIEX722/)

Mods to the Impala:

2x JDM Astar 800 lumen 3157 xenon white front turn signals installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G2TV7OG/)

2x JDM Astar 800 lumen 3157 brilliant red rear turn signals installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEUUKU/)

4x load resistors t-tapped into both front and rear turn signals installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4V9ECY/)

2x JDM Astar super bright 194 LED xenon white rear marker lamps installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OH0S5Y2/)

2x JDM Astar super bright 921 reverse lamps installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTDJ9FA/)

1x JDM Astar extremely bright 578 bulb in the dome lamp installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTOJU28/)

2x JDM Astar super bright 194 LED xenon white map lights installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OH0S5Y2/)

2x JDM Astar super bright 194 LED xenon white footwell lights installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OH0S5Y2/)

1x JDM Astar extremely bright 194 in trunk installed (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIEX722/)

To be honest, all the color temperatures are just about right on and if they're not perfect, they're not enough that my eyes can tell the difference. The only thing I have left on both vehicles are head lights, really, and front turn signals on the Edge, but I'm holding off on that until I get it as my daily driver.

Yes they sell lights. I can find the Spec-D ones all over the place. But that doesn't answer the longevity question or the quad projector question. :-/

Well let's take this another direction then. Has anyone used the Spec-D projectors for an extended period and found them to be just fine and I'm being concerned over nothing?

No one, huh? Well damn.

No they have 5000K and 6000K, my kit came with the 6000K bulbs. The 6000K better matches their DRL's so the kit automatically comes with the 6000K's.

osnap, you're right. Yea, I planned on 5000k to begin with.

Just make sure you don't get the 6000K bulbs unless all you care about is having blueish lights.

I believe the ones at DTBL are only offered in 5000k, so I'm good.