awake33

I've had this happen a few times over two years. Totally random, smooth driving, slow or fast it didn't seem to matter.

Chalk it up to the random computer or integrated circuit glitch. I work in IT and see it all the time. Simple devices behaving as though they are possessed lol.

Doesnt matter, heat or a/c it is the fan motor.

While it is entirely possible. I'm sure they can tell the difference between a sound emanating from the front vs the rear.

But, more importantly, this is a well known issue with the fuel pumps and thus it is far more likely that that is the culprit.

My Edge does it too, noticed it from day one, drives me nuts. The cabin fan did start to whine a bit when I hit 20k miles though.

Now I have whining from both ends lol.

Their cheapo kit ended up blowing out the SJB smart junction box on my wifes Edge. The grand total for repair was $1,000 !! Service manager said that this issue is all too common with this specific electrical system. You will probably have the same issue with any other HID kit, but the Kits retro sells for around $200 are the same exact kits that others sell for around $100. Save your money and buy some silverstars. Todd did refund my money minus 20% restocking fee.

Sorry to hear that. I've been using mine for 1.5 years without relays with no problems. S**t happens, doesn't mean the kit is cheap or guaranteed to cause problems.

No issues here with remote start, not a Ford OEM kit though.

The information given by the seller regarding LEDs is correct, my map lamps slightly glow while off too.

Not sure how a lamp being on or off would make the car/starter think a door is open.

If that were the case, then just turning on a light could defeat the starter lol.

There is an obvious, and RIGHT way to turn off the seatbelt reminder and that is to just buckle up. I had a 99 Mustang when I was in college and was in the habit of not buckling up till I heard the seatbelt reminder. One night someone ran me off the road about 50 yards from my apartment and I had not buckled up yet and also had my windows down. 2 months later I woke up from a coma paralyzed from the bottom of my neck down. I'm not trying to act like your mother here....but there is a reason they have that reminder....don't ignore it.

Someone this obviously (and self described) lazy shouldn't bother wearing a seatbelt.

When I got my HID kit I changed the "Lights on at unlock" so just the interior lights come on.

I did the same thing for the same reason, and also because sometimes the passenger light wouldn't come on after starting the car.

It's a really bad idea to have them come on when unlocking, barely get fully charged up, then turn off for 2-3 seconds and come right back on.

I do not have a relay or cap, ballasts are plugged directly into the OEM harness.

Something else to keep you warm and fuzzy up there: the Edge will not let the lights stay on after the battery get below a certain level, and that level still retains enough amps to turn over the engine.

Yokohama Parada Spec-X (Street/Sport Truck All-Season)

He asked what and why.

I've heard of these, but would also like to know why they are a good choice.

Well, I started this install today and ran into a couple problems. Hopefully you can help me out

 

I've got everything wired up and have power but not getting the car to remote start using the transmitter. If I hold the transmitter button for 1-2 seconds I hear 5 sets of clicks out of the python's brain but nothing from the car whatsoever. I'm using method #2 for programming the PKFM(insert each key, wait till the light goes off, go to the next one and then finally remote start the car). The light comes on and then goes off as it should with the keys but nothing with the remote start.

 

A couple other wires I couldn't seem to trace down too are the parking light wire and the defog wire for the rear window. Some directions I found say a purple and white wire at the driver's kick panel but everyone purple/white wire I've tested with my mutimeter doesn't show any power when I manually turn on the parking lights. I guess I could see about finding the - parking light wire, but I'd prefer not to have to hook up a relay which is what one set of directions I found said you needed to do using it.

 

Would really appreciate any help/advise you have to offer. You've already been a tremendous help in your above posts...I really appreciate it.

Are you using the D2D cable to connect the bypass and remote start together? You only need to connect bypass harness pins 2 (Green), 7 (Pink), 8 (Orange) to the car PATS harness pins 3 (Violet/gray), 4 (yellow/orange), 1 (Blue/brown) respectively.

I had to use a relay for the parking lights, the ford system draws more than 10 amps (potentially). I would like to hook up rear defrost and the heated seats, but couldn't narrow down which wires in the car were needed.

It took a few tries to program the bypass, and then my car wouldn't start either lol, sorry I don't recall what it was that I overlooked at the time. Just double check all your connections from the beginning and try again. Also, what does the diagnostic LED say? It flashes a code to help you narrow down failed starts.

Yep, the top steering column cover removal was actually the hardest part. It felt like it was going to break, in fact I think I did break one tab.

No matter how hard you squeeze all the tabs just don't want to let go at the same time.

I prefer a clean install and one that, extenuating circumstances aside, will never fail. So soldering directly to the connectors was the way to go.

If you're comfortable with it, everything can be done at the kick panel.

There were a few wires for the PATS that I stripped in the middle without cutting and heat-shrink tube was used on all connections for insulation

and limiting movement when adjusting the steering tilt/depth. I put zip-ties through the ignition connectors and pinned the ends under my feet to

serve as a third hand while soldering and keep solder from flowing into the opening.

I could really use any info on this install. I just ordered the same remote start system for my wife's '08 SEL. I still need to get the by-pass module(any recommended sources?). Searching the forum I found wire location/colors for an '07, I'd suspect they'd be the same for the '08; is this correct?

 

TIA

No idea on the '07 wires.

This is the bypass kit and where I ordered it: Dei PKFM Kit

Remote start diagram:

As you can see, the majority of the wires are not even used.

I removed all unused wires from the molex connectors completely so they are not in the way.

Xpresskit notes:

I temporarily removed the ignition wires from the Edge's connector and soldered the remote start wires directly to the end OEM clips.

Be careful if you choose this method as solder can pool up inside the clip and prevent you from being able to plug it back in, but it can be removed with some solder wick.

The rest of us are talking about a whine that is present when the vehicle is not in motion.

I am in the midst of importing my '08 Edge to Europe, and the lighting needed some adjustments. I have had the lights installed, but there seems to be a problem with the wiring. Can anyone seem to have ANY IDEA how I might rectify this???

What lighting (headlamps, interior, turn signals, etc.)?

What is the symptom?

I have a manual I'll look at if you can provide this info.

I've only managed to get the light to flicker a couple times while driving very aggressively in the snow.

BOW = bulb out warning. Some cars detect the different current draw as a bad bulb and light up a warning.

Ah, thanks for clearing that up.

Prinz , Any flicker or bow issues?

Just curious, what are 'bow' issues?

I have a set installed for low beams.

Is there any point to doing high beams? Most of the time I have to turn them on and off quite a bit due to oncoming traffic.

Not good for the ballasts and often times, they wouldn't even have time to charge up to full brightness.

How does one get around that?

What's so hard about manually locking the doors? This is actually the first car I have had that auto locks them at 12mph.

 

Do you people really think if someone really wants to rob you that a locked car door will really matter? It's not too hard to break through a car door glass with anything of significant weight. What are you going to do if they have a gun?

You don't need anything at all to break a car window, you can just punch it out if you want to, I've done it.

Of course there are varying degrees to everything, but every little bit helps. The more layers of deterrents you have the better.

Based on your logic, we should not lock our doors at home either, because they can just break the window, so why bother.

The guy never said it was 'hard' to lock them manually either. He asked a legitimate question, ease up on the guy.

http://www.magnadyne.com/index.cfm?MasterA...;Web_CatID=9511

http://www.magnadyne.com/index.cfm?MasterA...;Web_CatID=9511

This mirror does not have the ability to work with Sync as far as I can tell.

That's pretty nifty there securinu. But I have to assume that you own the store. You have posted here and there on this forum, sometimes eluding to some interesting information that you don't ever divulge. You also have never replied to any of my PMs asking for an explanation. You have only mentioned that you run an install business of some kind. Provide some real information, not just links.

Don't don't hold your breath while waiting for me to buy from you.

Why on earth would this require a stock NAV system if it doesn't even use the screen?

Wrong thread, lol.

Looks great!

I was considering that grill, how hard was it to install?

Has anyone installed or had this installed? If so, how difficult is the job? The part number is 9G1Z-19G364-A. Thanks.

Have not installed that model, but I did use the wiring instructions from it and the Ford wiring diagram book to help me install a Python Responder One with a Dei PKFM XpressKit SoleX Platform PATS Transponder unit. Was way easier than I thought it would be, at least compared to years ago. 11 wires in all to the vehicle. I soldered all connections without cutting any vehicle wiring using a method similar to that outlined for the Ford 9G1Z-19G364-A. The hardest part was getting the steering column apart without breaking it. Since I soldered and took my time making everything perfect, it took about 6 hours total. Soldering joints like this by yourself is a real pain. The PATS bypass unit was easy to install too. Didn't have any programming issues and the range is great, especially for such a tiny remote. I highly recommend one of these over the Ford unit. It's the smallest 2-way long range remote start unit there is, smaller that the Edge key fob with the built-in key. Total cost was about $185, got both units from eBay.

Were can you pick them up for 615?

eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI

Bidding has ended, but they re-list the item repeatedly.

Brand new body kit for sale, PM me for more details or you can email me at cooljoe51@gmail.com. I want 1k for it. Thanks!

Is it already painted? You can pick these up for $615 shipped +$600 for matching OEM paint.

Are you ballasts digital? I have an HID kit installed and did not need to use relays. Everything works fine for over a year now.