Brucifer

Couple days late on this:

One Factory, one clone.

UPDATE:

Bought three switchblade keys off EBay and got all three to work with home programming.

How is all this new format working out for you?

Increased membership?

Increased use?

On 11/27/2019 at 9:59 AM, PaulSchott said:

I think I would try to find 1969 Cadillac horns.  Really loud and musical.  Very authoritative.  GET THE HONK OUT OF MY WAY!

$5 in You-Pull-It Caddy horns, a relay and some wiring:

 

Mounted inside the cover of the driver side wheel well. Lincolns are another good source for horns. Just a two horn set-up. I think stock is 4 horns with different tones. I went with a high and low that sounded good.

Changed the oil. Mobile 1. Added this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9K62X3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't say I paid attention before, but I think it sounded a tad quieter after start up. Could be the money filter.

Why?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8ZKMCfAue4

EDIT ADD:
Also got three switchblade keys for it off of EBay. All of them programmed in on the first try with no problems.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FLIP-KEY-REMOTE-FOR-FORD-F150-F250-EDGE-40BIT-TRANSPONDER-CHIP-KEYLESS-ENTRY/130687018678?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Any suggestions as to slightly over powered lift gate arms? Don't want to break my jaw when I unsnap the gate, but something that definitely has some oomph.

As long as everything is being replaced, it would be a good idea to have the brain box checked. Bad box can make for bad coils and bad coils can make for a bad box.

https://circuitboardmedics.com/2007-2010-ford-edge-pcm-ecm-repair/

All four rotors and brakes.

For those playing at home:

Fronts:

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-rotor/duralast-gold-brake-rotor/539222_195255_2708

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/duralast-gold-brake-pads/939349_232493_3773

Same version for rears.

Front pad box had two extra little clips. Not sure where they went. Didn't use them. Started at noon and finished at 6. Re-learning curves are a bitch.

Installed the rears and went around the block. Could feel a grinding sensation. Installed the front and had same grinding feel in the front. Seemed to settle down a tad by the time I got home. Will make a pizza run tonight, so I'm hoping it's a wearing in thing. No other horrendous noises. Parking brake is a little low.

For added fun, after I recessed the calipers, I put everything back in place and shot everything with black 2000 degree paint. I had already done the hats on the rotors (taped at the bottom of the hat and used the factory plastic as a blocking agent). Old hats were all faded and rusty. Calipers look good for now. Time will tell.

On 1/26/2019 at 5:54 AM, EDST777 said:

friends, I need to replace mount
 transmissions, I have two numbers DT4Z6068A and 8T4Z6068B, they are similar, but I heard they differ in something except LOL price. Maybe someone will comment on distinction?!

Sorry for the delay, but I hate the site's new layout and rarely come here any more.

One looks like for an '08 and one for a '12:

Quote

from 1/11/08. to 1/10/08.

https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Housing-TRANSMISSION-mount/52086753/8T4Z6068B.html

Quote

Housing. Torque arm. TRANSMISSION mount.

3.7 LITER. from 5/14/12. to 5/11/12. Torque arm.

 

Housing. Torque arm. TRANSMISSION mount.

3.5 LITER. from 5/14/12. to 5/11/12. Torque arm.

https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__Edge/Housing-Torque-arm-TRANSMISSION-mount/51620415/DT4Z6068A.html

Best thing to do is match up what you got with what's in the pic.

Passenger airbag replaced.

Some time ago, but finally got the pics off my phone.

Stopped to get breakfast. When I came out, I noticed all sorts of rust and bubbling along the rear fender well. I don't keep the cleanest car in the world, but when the hell did this happen???

That's when I paid a little more attention to my surroundings:
 

I wonder if the other '07 noticed what they did (I'm in the back).

20 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

You mean the EVAP purge valve?

 

Some things never change lol.  Pinching the gasket on the firewall valve cover was a common problem on the Gen 1/2 SHOs as well.  So some took to installing studs to guide the cover on and set in place with a dab of Permatex in that corner.

Maybe. I think it looks kinda like a torch. Has two lines coming off it. It has an electrical plug in that comes in from the main three brain box plugs. To the left of the brake fluid reservoir. In most Edge engine bay pics, it is right below the two bolts on the windshield cowling.

Right below the right hand bolt:

At least I have a name to look up in the factory book. One of the locking clips broke off and I want to try and replace it Thursday when I'm by the dealer.

Finished the valve cover gasket for the second time. First time it got pinched. I think I raked it across the engine support bracket by the firewall. Used a mirror this time to confirm blue gasket across the length. One of the injector clips had broken off, so I goobed some black gasket goo in it's place and stuck it back on. If it does go wonky again, I can at least see it on the passenger side of the intake. Some burning, but I think that was from all the oil that poured out after the pinch.

What's the black thing mounted on a post behind the resonator? Has hard vacuum lines coming off it.

If anyone needs to do the radiator side valve cover gasket replacement on a '07-'08, let me know. I have extras.

Got the 4 oil seal rings out (slip joint pliers), but don't have a good way of replacing them. Luckily, there is a shop within walking distance and I'll see if they will be willing to press them into place so I don't bugger the whole thing up.

Then it will just be a matter of a couple of dabs of goo, and bolting it all back together. Not sure how the wiring is going to hold up over time when I was busting the VC bolt plastic cap-holder things left and right. I'll be happy with no leaks and all the electrical plugs in place at this point.

Why not vBulletin?

1 hour ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Good question, never had anyone actually replace the bolt seals (the blue ones in FelPro pic).  Maybe put some WD40 on them or engine oil on them to remove/install?

 

FEL-PRO VS50767R {#VS50490} Info

w/Grommets & Spark plug tube seals; PermaDry molded rubber Gaskets. incl.

Found and going with this:

Firewall side. Was smoking from oil leaking out from the corner of the cover onto the exhaust. Mechanic put his mirror back there to confirm. Old gasket was pretty stiff in parts, pliable in others. Changing out the plugs because I'm around 30k on them and I don't feel like taking everything apart ever again.

Got the Fel-Pro set. Gasket is in the cover groove. I also got a bunch of smaller gaskets that go around the bolts. How do I change these out? Don't see a way of slipping the new ones over the thin metal disks even if I cut the old ones off. I don't have the tool to set the spark plug seals, but that's what large sockets are for. ?

Doing the right side valve cover gasket.

18 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

The procedure for the car to recognize the FOB for starting is programmed when you program the FOB. (There's a chip with a identifying hex number inside the FOB that's being read during programming. It's this chip that detected when you put you key in the ignition. No additional programming is needed for this to be linked to the car. If your switchblade is aftermarket, most likely it's Chinese and these have been know to be problematic. 

 

There's does appear to be a second programming procedure for the 2007. Could always try it and see if works or not. I've never tried this so can't say if it works or not. (Note, for either procedure, do NOT step on the brake before or during the procedure. If you do, start over).

1. Fasten seatbelt and close all doors
2. Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 3 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition OFF. The system will chime to confirm programming mode.
4. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on first keyless remote. The system will chime once to confirm programming.
5. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on second keyless remote. System will chime once to confirm programming.
6. Turn ignition to RUN to exit programming mode.

 

Opps, I lied. Third procedure (resembles a Chinese Fire Drill):

1. INSERT a working transponder key into the ignition cylinder.
2. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1).
3. REMOVE the first transponder key and INSERT the second working transponder within ten (10) seconds.  
4. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1).
5. REMOVE the second transponder key and INSERT the new unprogrammed transponder key within twenty (20) seconds and TURN to ON (Position 3) for six (6) seconds and TURN back to OFF (Position 1).
6. The Theft Indicator light will respond by lighting up for three (3) seconds to indicate successful programming of the new transponder key.
7. Test all remotes. Programming is complete.
8. If these programming instructions helped save you time and money, please consider sharing our website with friends and family so they can do the same.
9. If the remote portion of the remote head key DID NOT program with the above procedure, use Procedure #2 below to program the remote portion of the remote head key.

Tried all three flavors and nothing seems to work. The 8-count method is the only one that seems to give me a positive reaction as for programing. Like you said, it may be the Chinesium in the key finally giving out (or because I threw the fob recently). Not sure how many more keys I can add to the system before wiping and starting all over. Have some running around tomorrow in the area of my local, full-service locksmith tomorrow, so maybe I'll get a quote. If I have to buy a set of factory keys, I'm going to try and make them all switchblades. If the groves and the frequencies are the same, I can't see why not. I think my wife has a spare key with her, so I have at least two fully working ones, but I might be running out of options.

Thanks.

Printed a hard copy.

Stopped by the dealership today and they ordered my passenger side airbag.

1-2 weeks out for that, then half a day install.

I can't find anything on this new infernal site, so I have to start a new thread.

Have a working 'switchblade' key that I use all the time. Range started fading on it, so I replaced the battery. Didn't remote at all now, but will start the car. Got the original key out to reprogram everything.

Close door.

Open door.

Unlock.

Off/Run 8 times in 8 seconds leaving in run.

Lock acknowledge programing mode.

Every time I hit any button on the original key, the horn honks. Switchblade doesn't take the programing.

I think I remember that there were two programing routines: one to make the car run, and one to program fobs. I think I'm doing the fob one, but even Google is failing me.

Got the brake lines flushed.

10 hours ago, chefduane said:

I can get used the new format.  Things change.  But where is the 'New Posts" option?  Is that what 'Unread Content' is?  Also, where is the option to view threads in which I have posted?

 

That's what I'm taking it as. "All the content that hasn't been read since the last time you were here". Or at least something like that.

It might take me a bit to get used to this format,but then again, I having a hard time wrapping my head around drag racing an Edge.